Friday, November 30, 2012

RE: [papercreters] Re: Wild Harvested Binders and Fiberous Plant Matter



So far this year we have only had a little over 5". Blocks that have sat in water disintegrated.



Follow progress on the new project on my papercrete Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Papercrete/390380804327169

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith



To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: rustaholic777@yahoo.com
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2012 15:54:16 -0800
Subject: RE: [papercreters] Re: Wild Harvested Binders and Fiberous Plant Matter

 
How much rain do you get Judith?
For the next week if it isn't raining it will be snowing here.
 
Alan in Michigan

--- On Fri, 11/30/12, JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@hotmail.com> wrote:

From: JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: [papercreters] Re: Wild Harvested Binders and Fiberous Plant Matter
To: "papercreters papercreters" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Friday, November 30, 2012, 6:42 PM



I made some blocks about  6 or 7 years ago out of just my clay soil and paper. They have been outside all this time and are still good as new.




Follow progress on the new project on my papercrete Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Papercrete/390380804327169

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith



To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: ken.winston.caine@gmail.com
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2012 20:03:28 +0000
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Wild Harvested Binders and Fiberous Plant Matter

 


--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "JayH" <slurryguy@...> wrote:
>
> I agree with Spaceman's response, but at the same time, I also encourage experimentation with whatever resources you have available locally.
>
> The key word here is "experimentation." Feel free to try things in small batches to make a few bricks with various ideas. As long as you keep your experiments small, you won't be investing large amounts of money or time in any particular attempt. Perhaps you will discover a technique that none of us here has considered before. <snip>

---
---

Just want to say that this post of Jay's should be added to the files section. Think it is some of the best basic advice for newbies (among which I count myself, even though I've been monitoring the group off and on since about 2002 --think it was a *different* group then).

Have been doing experiments in the manner Jay suggests here for more than a year now. I have been trying to come up with a fire-safe, non-cement mix that can be pumped into forms and / or sprayed onto burlap and that will result in a hard, durable wall with substantial water resistance.

Have not had great results. Yet.

Have found that pulped paper (with borax added for insect, mold and fire-resistance) and water cure to a very firm, well-bonded, super lightweight building block. And if the slurry is made thin enough, it can be pumped or sprayed with my trash pump. (Although it shrinks a lot during cure because it was so thin to start with.) But this was already known here. I didn't discover it. Just repeated it.

What I did find was that adding things like a clay and lime, flour, asphalt emulsion and don't recall what else I've experimented with so far, has resulted in a crumbly cured block and a poor, not sticky enough coating for burlap. The coating mostly washed off in rains. I did not achieve the desired water resistance. (But water resistance CAN be achieved with AE. Spaceman tested that many years ago. And Charmaine has cited it, too. I just didn't use the right combo of ingredients, apparently, so far.)

Am certain that one reason for the crumbliness of my cured blocks -- particularly in regard to the clay-lime mix -- is that I added far too much clay. Will be experimenting with much smaller proportions of clay when I get back to this.

What I don't know -- because I haven't done the Mikey Sklar blow-torch test -- is just how burn resistant are my blocks made of only pulped paper with borax added.

Did find a university study last year on using boric acid for fire resistance in papercrete and their findings were disappointing. Took a massive amount of boric acid to do the trick. Much more than we usually find recommended in the papercrete community.

Still have one of my experimental paper/water/borax blocks around. Jay has reminded me that I need to do the fire-test experiment.

Best,
kwc

P.S. Update on experimental miniaturized rocket thermal mass heater: Have it working well outdoors. Have a clean, smokeless burn and am drawing off and storing in mass so much heat that I can lay my hand flat on the exhaust pipe and leave it there during the burn. Is pleasantly warm. Does not get HOT. I'd guess the temperature of the gasses and moisture exiting the exhaust are about 120 F. Heater was still radiating substantial heat last night, outdoors in 31 F temperature, three full hours after I shut off the burn. Today is the beginning of the install. (Need to rip out the dinettee and a lot of stuff in the kitchen section of my RV. Not sure how long that is going to take.) Would be nice to have heat indoors tonight. And tomorrow morning. Don't know if I'll get that far today. Feel good about predicting that it will be installed and burning indoors by tomorrow p.m.)

On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 9:11 AM, <papercreters@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
There is 1 message in this issue.

Topics in this digest:







__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

RE: [papercreters] Re: Wild Harvested Binders and Fiberous Plant Matter



How much rain do you get Judith?
For the next week if it isn't raining it will be snowing here.
 
Alan in Michigan

--- On Fri, 11/30/12, JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@hotmail.com> wrote:

From: JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: [papercreters] Re: Wild Harvested Binders and Fiberous Plant Matter
To: "papercreters papercreters" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Friday, November 30, 2012, 6:42 PM



I made some blocks about  6 or 7 years ago out of just my clay soil and paper. They have been outside all this time and are still good as new.




Follow progress on the new project on my papercrete Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Papercrete/390380804327169

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith



To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: ken.winston.caine@gmail.com
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2012 20:03:28 +0000
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Wild Harvested Binders and Fiberous Plant Matter

 


--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "JayH" <slurryguy@...> wrote:
>
> I agree with Spaceman's response, but at the same time, I also encourage experimentation with whatever resources you have available locally.
>
> The key word here is "experimentation." Feel free to try things in small batches to make a few bricks with various ideas. As long as you keep your experiments small, you won't be investing large amounts of money or time in any particular attempt. Perhaps you will discover a technique that none of us here has considered before. <snip>

---
---

Just want to say that this post of Jay's should be added to the files section. Think it is some of the best basic advice for newbies (among which I count myself, even though I've been monitoring the group off and on since about 2002 --think it was a *different* group then).

Have been doing experiments in the manner Jay suggests here for more than a year now. I have been trying to come up with a fire-safe, non-cement mix that can be pumped into forms and / or sprayed onto burlap and that will result in a hard, durable wall with substantial water resistance.

Have not had great results. Yet.

Have found that pulped paper (with borax added for insect, mold and fire-resistance) and water cure to a very firm, well-bonded, super lightweight building block. And if the slurry is made thin enough, it can be pumped or sprayed with my trash pump. (Although it shrinks a lot during cure because it was so thin to start with.) But this was already known here. I didn't discover it. Just repeated it.

What I did find was that adding things like a clay and lime, flour, asphalt emulsion and don't recall what else I've experimented with so far, has resulted in a crumbly cured block and a poor, not sticky enough coating for burlap. The coating mostly washed off in rains. I did not achieve the desired water resistance. (But water resistance CAN be achieved with AE. Spaceman tested that many years ago. And Charmaine has cited it, too. I just didn't use the right combo of ingredients, apparently, so far.)

Am certain that one reason for the crumbliness of my cured blocks -- particularly in regard to the clay-lime mix -- is that I added far too much clay. Will be experimenting with much smaller proportions of clay when I get back to this.

What I don't know -- because I haven't done the Mikey Sklar blow-torch test -- is just how burn resistant are my blocks made of only pulped paper with borax added.

Did find a university study last year on using boric acid for fire resistance in papercrete and their findings were disappointing. Took a massive amount of boric acid to do the trick. Much more than we usually find recommended in the papercrete community.

Still have one of my experimental paper/water/borax blocks around. Jay has reminded me that I need to do the fire-test experiment.

Best,
kwc

P.S. Update on experimental miniaturized rocket thermal mass heater: Have it working well outdoors. Have a clean, smokeless burn and am drawing off and storing in mass so much heat that I can lay my hand flat on the exhaust pipe and leave it there during the burn. Is pleasantly warm. Does not get HOT. I'd guess the temperature of the gasses and moisture exiting the exhaust are about 120 F. Heater was still radiating substantial heat last night, outdoors in 31 F temperature, three full hours after I shut off the burn. Today is the beginning of the install. (Need to rip out the dinettee and a lot of stuff in the kitchen section of my RV. Not sure how long that is going to take.) Would be nice to have heat indoors tonight. And tomorrow morning. Don't know if I'll get that far today. Feel good about predicting that it will be installed and burning indoors by tomorrow p.m.)

On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 9:11 AM, <papercreters@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
There is 1 message in this issue.

Topics in this digest:






__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

RE: [papercreters] Re: Wild Harvested Binders and Fiberous Plant Matter



I made some blocks about  6 or 7 years ago out of just my clay soil and paper. They have been outside all this time and are still good as new.




Follow progress on the new project on my papercrete Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Papercrete/390380804327169

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith



To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: ken.winston.caine@gmail.com
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2012 20:03:28 +0000
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Wild Harvested Binders and Fiberous Plant Matter

 


--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "JayH" <slurryguy@...> wrote:
>
> I agree with Spaceman's response, but at the same time, I also encourage experimentation with whatever resources you have available locally.
>
> The key word here is "experimentation." Feel free to try things in small batches to make a few bricks with various ideas. As long as you keep your experiments small, you won't be investing large amounts of money or time in any particular attempt. Perhaps you will discover a technique that none of us here has considered before. <snip>

---
---

Just want to say that this post of Jay's should be added to the files section. Think it is some of the best basic advice for newbies (among which I count myself, even though I've been monitoring the group off and on since about 2002 --think it was a *different* group then).

Have been doing experiments in the manner Jay suggests here for more than a year now. I have been trying to come up with a fire-safe, non-cement mix that can be pumped into forms and / or sprayed onto burlap and that will result in a hard, durable wall with substantial water resistance.

Have not had great results. Yet.

Have found that pulped paper (with borax added for insect, mold and fire-resistance) and water cure to a very firm, well-bonded, super lightweight building block. And if the slurry is made thin enough, it can be pumped or sprayed with my trash pump. (Although it shrinks a lot during cure because it was so thin to start with.) But this was already known here. I didn't discover it. Just repeated it.

What I did find was that adding things like a clay and lime, flour, asphalt emulsion and don't recall what else I've experimented with so far, has resulted in a crumbly cured block and a poor, not sticky enough coating for burlap. The coating mostly washed off in rains. I did not achieve the desired water resistance. (But water resistance CAN be achieved with AE. Spaceman tested that many years ago. And Charmaine has cited it, too. I just didn't use the right combo of ingredients, apparently, so far.)

Am certain that one reason for the crumbliness of my cured blocks -- particularly in regard to the clay-lime mix -- is that I added far too much clay. Will be experimenting with much smaller proportions of clay when I get back to this.

What I don't know -- because I haven't done the Mikey Sklar blow-torch test -- is just how burn resistant are my blocks made of only pulped paper with borax added.

Did find a university study last year on using boric acid for fire resistance in papercrete and their findings were disappointing. Took a massive amount of boric acid to do the trick. Much more than we usually find recommended in the papercrete community.

Still have one of my experimental paper/water/borax blocks around. Jay has reminded me that I need to do the fire-test experiment.

Best,
kwc

P.S. Update on experimental miniaturized rocket thermal mass heater: Have it working well outdoors. Have a clean, smokeless burn and am drawing off and storing in mass so much heat that I can lay my hand flat on the exhaust pipe and leave it there during the burn. Is pleasantly warm. Does not get HOT. I'd guess the temperature of the gasses and moisture exiting the exhaust are about 120 F. Heater was still radiating substantial heat last night, outdoors in 31 F temperature, three full hours after I shut off the burn. Today is the beginning of the install. (Need to rip out the dinettee and a lot of stuff in the kitchen section of my RV. Not sure how long that is going to take.) Would be nice to have heat indoors tonight. And tomorrow morning. Don't know if I'll get that far today. Feel good about predicting that it will be installed and burning indoors by tomorrow p.m.)

On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 9:11 AM, <papercreters@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
There is 1 message in this issue.

Topics in this digest:




__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

[papercreters] Re: Wild Harvested Binders and Fiberous Plant Matter

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "JayH" <slurryguy@...> wrote:
>
> I agree with Spaceman's response, but at the same time, I also encourage experimentation with whatever resources you have available locally.
>
> The key word here is "experimentation." Feel free to try things in small batches to make a few bricks with various ideas. As long as you keep your experiments small, you won't be investing large amounts of money or time in any particular attempt. Perhaps you will discover a technique that none of us here has considered before. <snip>

---
---

Just want to say that this post of Jay's should be added to the files section. Think it is some of the best basic advice for newbies (among which I count myself, even though I've been monitoring the group off and on since about 2002 --think it was a *different* group then).

Have been doing experiments in the manner Jay suggests here for more than a year now. I have been trying to come up with a fire-safe, non-cement mix that can be pumped into forms and / or sprayed onto burlap and that will result in a hard, durable wall with substantial water resistance.

Have not had great results. Yet.

Have found that pulped paper (with borax added for insect, mold and fire-resistance) and water cure to a very firm, well-bonded, super lightweight building block. And if the slurry is made thin enough, it can be pumped or sprayed with my trash pump. (Although it shrinks a lot during cure because it was so thin to start with.) But this was already known here. I didn't discover it. Just repeated it.

What I did find was that adding things like a clay and lime, flour, asphalt emulsion and don't recall what else I've experimented with so far, has resulted in a crumbly cured block and a poor, not sticky enough coating for burlap. The coating mostly washed off in rains. I did not achieve the desired water resistance. (But water resistance CAN be achieved with AE. Spaceman tested that many years ago. And Charmaine has cited it, too. I just didn't use the right combo of ingredients, apparently, so far.)

Am certain that one reason for the crumbliness of my cured blocks -- particularly in regard to the clay-lime mix -- is that I added far too much clay. Will be experimenting with much smaller proportions of clay when I get back to this.

What I don't know -- because I haven't done the Mikey Sklar blow-torch test -- is just how burn resistant are my blocks made of only pulped paper with borax added.

Did find a university study last year on using boric acid for fire resistance in papercrete and their findings were disappointing. Took a massive amount of boric acid to do the trick. Much more than we usually find recommended in the papercrete community.

Still have one of my experimental paper/water/borax blocks around. Jay has reminded me that I need to do the fire-test experiment.

Best,
kwc

P.S. Update on experimental miniaturized rocket thermal mass heater: Have it working well outdoors. Have a clean, smokeless burn and am drawing off and storing in mass so much heat that I can lay my hand flat on the exhaust pipe and leave it there during the burn. Is pleasantly warm. Does not get HOT. I'd guess the temperature of the gasses and moisture exiting the exhaust are about 120 F. Heater was still radiating substantial heat last night, outdoors in 31 F temperature, three full hours after I shut off the burn. Today is the beginning of the install. (Need to rip out the dinettee and a lot of stuff in the kitchen section of my RV. Not sure how long that is going to take.) Would be nice to have heat indoors tonight. And tomorrow morning. Don't know if I'll get that far today. Feel good about predicting that it will be installed and burning indoors by tomorrow p.m.)



On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 9:11 AM, <papercreters@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
There is 1 message in this issue.

Topics in this digest:





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com
papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[papercreters] Paper only ? Jay



Jay, When you wrote "Paper only" Did you mean that as no Portland just paper?

--- On Fri, 11/30/12, JayH <slurryguy@yahoo.com> wrote:

I AM NOT RECOMMENDING A PAPER ONLY MIX.

"Paper only" is extremely susceptible to fire, mold, insects, and rodents.  That is not to say that some people haven't attempted it anyway.  Sadly, there are far too many reports of such people abandoning houses that became unsafe or unhealthy to live in.  Building a house is a massive investment in time and effort.  Cutting corners that potentially can put that entire investment at risk may not be the best choice available to you. 
-------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/

<*> Your email settings:
    Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join
    (Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
    papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com
    papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

[papercreters] Re: Wild Harvested Binders and Fiberous Plant Matter

I agree with Spaceman's response, but at the same time, I also encourage experimentation with whatever resources you have available locally.

The key word here is "experimentation." Feel free to try things in small batches to make a few bricks with various ideas. As long as you keep your experiments small, you won't be investing large amounts of money or time in any particular attempt. Perhaps you will discover a technique that none of us here has considered before.

Please post about your experiments and the results here on papercreters.



In general, the most successful attempts to reinforce papercrete so far to date have come through applying a reinforcing mesh to plaster and stucco on the surface of a papercrete structure.


I have conducted quite a few experiments with latex paint. I have never found paint useful in CASTING BLOCKS of papercrete. However, adding latex paint to stucco or plaster is amazingly effective and I highly recommend it, particularly if you have a low cost source for latex paint. Using latex paint as part of a paper pulp enhanced surface coating can do amazing things.




As far as papercrete binders go. I encourage you to consider that a "binder" isn't particularly critical in papercrete as the paper fibers will bond to each other rather well without anything added, if the paper is pulped moulded, and allowed to thoroughly dry.

I AM NOT RECOMMENDING A PAPER ONLY MIX.

"Paper only" is extremely susceptible to fire, mold, insects, and rodents. That is not to say that some people haven't attempted it anyway. Sadly, there are far too many reports of such people abandoning houses that became unsafe or unhealthy to live in. Building a house is a massive investment in time and effort. Cutting corners that potentially can put that entire investment at risk may not be the best choice available to you.

If someone can discover a local source of an additive that will inhibit smoldering fire, inhibit mold, insects, and rodents, they should be able to design a mix that will support most any reasonably sized structure in great shape.

If you are seeking low cost alternatives for these additives, I suggest experimenting with the soils from your construction site mixed with the papercrete. Try different soils from different locations and different depths. A reasonable place to start is to seek the soil with the least organic content and the smallest particle sizes. Clay soils tend to work the best. The quantity of clay soil you will need to add to a particular quantity of paper will vary depending upon your local soil.

Another alternative is to seek local commercial waste products, such as fly ash, but you need not limit yourself to that alone. As you go about your daily routine, constantly be observant of what materials businesses are throwing away. Someone's dusty waste product, might end up being your perfect papercrete additive, just use appropriate care to know and understand what materials you are handling and take appropriate safety precautions.

Above all, when trying a new idea, start small. Make small batches, and test the results of various attempts thoroughly, particularly with respect to fire, mold, and how the material will perform if it gets re-wetted.

Once you think you have discovered your ideal mix, build a small shed or other small structure first. Make your mistakes on something small and learn from them. Only after you have proven that your ideas will work well should you proceed to invest the time and effort to build a larger structure.

Hope these thoughts are helpful.

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "SuperSpeaker" <rvbeary@...> wrote:
>
> This is my first post and so treat me gently! <smile>
>
> I was wondering about several things that I could not find regarding ingredients to Papercrete. First has anyone tried or thought about using sagebrush or greasewood type stems instead of or in addition to paper products in the mix? What might be the drawbacks and/or advantages of their use?
>
> Also, I thought since surplus latex paint is sometimes used as a binder if the dandelion stem milk (a light weight glue) and pine pitch might be used as binders as well or if anyone had tried using anything like that or any other nature type binders.
>
> Since these things are readily available in nature where I am, I thought it might be something which would work.
>
> Thank you for any ideas regarding this.
>
> rvbeary
> Building in southern Colorado
>




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com
papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Wednesday, November 28, 2012

Re: [papercreters] Wild Harvested Binders and Fiberous Plant Matter



When I used sticks and such in pc it was not so good. The shrinking pc tends to shrink away from anything embedded in it and leave voids. I had pretty good success with bamboo, especially chipped bamboo. You might try shredded/chipped sage and creosote.

Don't know of anyone who has tried dandelion, and they don't grow out here where I am. Mikey Sklar in T or C used prickly pear juice.

spaceman

On 11/28/2012 9:52 AM, SuperSpeaker wrote:
This is my first post and so treat me gently!  <smile>    I was wondering about several things that I could not find regarding ingredients to Papercrete.  First has anyone tried or thought about using sagebrush or greasewood type stems instead of or in addition to paper products in the mix?  What might be the drawbacks and/or advantages of their use?    Also, I thought since surplus latex paint is sometimes used as a binder if the dandelion stem milk (a light weight glue) and pine pitch might be used as binders as well or if anyone had tried using anything like that or any other nature type binders.    Since these things are readily available in nature where I am, I thought it might be something which would work.      Thank you for any ideas regarding this.    rvbeary  Building in southern Colorado        ------------------------------------    Yahoo! Groups Links    <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/    <*> Your email settings:      Individual Email | Traditional    <*> To change settings online go to:      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join      (Yahoo! ID required)    <*> To change settings via email:      papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com       papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com    <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:      papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com    <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:      http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/        -----  No virus found in this message.  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com  Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5921 - Release Date: 11/26/12      



__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

[papercreters] Wild Harvested Binders and Fiberous Plant Matter

This is my first post and so treat me gently! <smile>

I was wondering about several things that I could not find regarding ingredients to Papercrete. First has anyone tried or thought about using sagebrush or greasewood type stems instead of or in addition to paper products in the mix? What might be the drawbacks and/or advantages of their use?

Also, I thought since surplus latex paint is sometimes used as a binder if the dandelion stem milk (a light weight glue) and pine pitch might be used as binders as well or if anyone had tried using anything like that or any other nature type binders.

Since these things are readily available in nature where I am, I thought it might be something which would work.

Thank you for any ideas regarding this.

rvbeary
Building in southern Colorado



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com
papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Tuesday, November 27, 2012

Re: [papercreters] Re: Back in production, finally




On 11/27/2012 8:51 AM, JayH wrote:
As far as avoiding putting the "killer" into your killer blades, remember EliSutton?  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/photos/album/2081614419/pic/list    While Eli's system may not be 100% safe, it's probably safer than manually hefting a gigantic immersion blender.  It certainly would save lumbar disks in your lower back.  It also may stimulate some ideas for your own adaptation that is even better.  Also, such a lift system may make it possible for one person to operate the mixer and fill it while the blades are spinning.    Whatever happened to Eli anyway?  Hey Eli?  You out there buddy?  Miss your posts dude!
Yes, I remember that setup. Unfortunately it isn't very portable, and that's what I need right now. But it does open some possibilities for another design. Right now I think I can get this one down in weight a lot and make it easier to use, still portable. I'll be able to line up barrels and do a fairly continuous mix with a helper filling and emptying. I have three or four available. I don't see the water tower idea working in a portable situation, but another barrel with a fast pump would be a nice substitute. Ideally I'll put a setup on wheels so I can roll between molds while I'm casting triangles. For slipforming like Judith does, just putting the barrel on a strong scaffold would do the trick. Either way the barrel has to be elevated on a moveable stand of some sort so you can locate it and dump into molds/forms without using a bucket or pump.
      I'm convinced that elevating the mixer above your forms can minimize the manual labor to a great extent.  Getting gravity to work for you instead of against you just has to be the right idea.  I look forward to seeing what you  come up with.  With some reasonable thought it should make life a lot easier.  Spending more time building and less time doing the worst of the physical manual grunt work is always a step in the right direction.     Another thought I have had would be to build a "water tower" above your elevated mixer.  One of the slower activities can often be waiting for a hose to fill up a mixer.  If you had another barrel that used a toilet float valve for the filler, and either another elephant trunk valve, or even a standard toilet tank flapper valve connected to a large diameter pipe leading to your mixer, you should be able allow the hose to fill the tower tank at a snails pace while you are mixing one batch, and then rapidly dump the water tower flush style into the mixer when ready to start the  next batch.  If the float valve were mounted on an adjustable stick or other support inside the tank barrel, you could make the water quantity adjustable and automatically measured precisely.    The side benefit of the "water tower" approach, is that that the tower tank could be a place to pump runoff water to.  If you can create a drainage system around where your papercrete is draining, but that may or may not be practical depending upon each construction situation.      Looking good.  Glad you are back in production.      



__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

[papercreters] Re: Back in production, finally

As far as avoiding putting the "killer" into your killer blades, remember EliSutton?
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/photos/album/2081614419/pic/list

While Eli's system may not be 100% safe, it's probably safer than manually hefting a gigantic immersion blender. It certainly would save lumbar disks in your lower back. It also may stimulate some ideas for your own adaptation that is even better. Also, such a lift system may make it possible for one person to operate the mixer and fill it while the blades are spinning.

Whatever happened to Eli anyway? Hey Eli? You out there buddy? Miss your posts dude!


I'm convinced that elevating the mixer above your forms can minimize the manual labor to a great extent. Getting gravity to work for you instead of against you just has to be the right idea. I look forward to seeing what you come up with. With some reasonable thought it should make life a lot easier. Spending more time building and less time doing the worst of the physical manual grunt work is always a step in the right direction.



Another thought I have had would be to build a "water tower" above your elevated mixer. One of the slower activities can often be waiting for a hose to fill up a mixer. If you had another barrel that used a toilet float valve for the filler, and either another elephant trunk valve, or even a standard toilet tank flapper valve connected to a large diameter pipe leading to your mixer, you should be able allow the hose to fill the tower tank at a snails pace while you are mixing one batch, and then rapidly dump the water tower flush style into the mixer when ready to start the next batch. If the float valve were mounted on an adjustable stick or other support inside the tank barrel, you could make the water quantity adjustable and automatically measured precisely.

The side benefit of the "water tower" approach, is that that the tower tank could be a place to pump runoff water to. If you can create a drainage system around where your papercrete is draining, but that may or may not be practical depending upon each construction situation.


Looking good. Glad you are back in production.



Spaceman Wrote: -----------------------------------
Yes, I remember that. We had some scheme cooked up to avoid lifting anything wet and heavy. I still have that as one of my goals, mix and dump in place, let the hose move the water. I don't mind lifting small amounts of cement and dry paper. This one would do well on top of a scaffold capable of holding 1/2 ton or so safely. An elephant trunk valve on the side/bottom could then dump directly into forms. With paper prepared instead of in a compressed old bale the mix time could have been five minutes instead of the fifteen in the video. I've already drawn a better model based on this but much lighter. This one takes a little motivation to use. Today I didn't find the right junk in the pile.




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com
papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Monday, November 26, 2012

Re: [papercreters] Back in production, finally



Yes, I remember that. We had some scheme cooked up to avoid lifting anything wet and heavy. I still have that as one of my goals, mix and dump in place, let the hose move the water. I don't mind lifting small amounts of cement and dry paper. This one would do well on top of a scaffold capable of holding 1/2 ton or so safely. An elephant trunk valve on the side/bottom could then dump directly into forms. With paper prepared instead of in a compressed old bale the mix time could have been five minutes instead of the fifteen in the video. I've already drawn a better model based on this but much lighter. This one takes a little motivation to use. Today I didn't find the right junk in the pile.

On 11/26/2012 1:15 PM, JUDITH WILLIAMS wrote:
Remember we talked about putting a mixer like this up above the forms  on some sort of track (?), moving it along as you go. I find the hardest part of building with papercrete is getting the slurry up to the tops of the wall forms. Of course I'm talking about slip form construction.



Follow progress on the new project on my papercrete Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Papercrete/390380804327169

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith



To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2012 12:19:19 -0700
Subject: [papercreters] Back in production, finally

 
http://youtu.be/QHWdWOcIqLM

I didn't post the 3D version.


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5908 - Release Date: 11/20/12




__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

RE: [papercreters] Back in production, finally



Remember we talked about putting a mixer like this up above the forms  on some sort of track (?), moving it along as you go. I find the hardest part of building with papercrete is getting the slurry up to the tops of the wall forms. Of course I'm talking about slip form construction.



Follow progress on the new project on my papercrete Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Papercrete/390380804327169

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith



To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2012 12:19:19 -0700
Subject: [papercreters] Back in production, finally

 
http://youtu.be/QHWdWOcIqLM

I didn't post the 3D version.




__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

[papercreters] Re: newbie Carolyn Roberts plastered home with lime

What she said....

I posted something about this a while ago, but it got lost in cyber space.

Last time I slaked some lime I had a 50 gallon drum of water boiling with the heat of reaction. You could feel the heat radiating off the drum. That was with lump lime, average lump size around 1 3/4" of an inch. It reacted for hours. I shudder to think of the reaction had that been powdered lime.

Incidentally, what that guy was doing goes against what I was taught. To get the best results the lime should be slaked for weeks if not months. I have some under the house that's been in water for two years. When I want to make a waterproof lime wash I use linseed oil as an admixture. It emulsifies nicely with the lime, still breathes and doesn't go mouldy like lard does. There is no advantage to putting the wash on hot, and some disadvantages. The longer the wash can be kept wet on the wall, the better it sticks, the reaction with the CO2 needs to take place in the presence of water so the lime doesn't dry out and go chalky before it has a chance to react. I'm sure with a bunch of lard in there it seems to stick OK at the time though. I use no more than 10% linseed oil by volume and usually a lot less, and this is plenty to make it waterproof. Paint it on and mist the wall with water constantly for a couple of days. Recoat before the first coat has dried, so they react together.

Burns like a b@st@rd too if it's dry (unslaked) and your hands are wet. Not too good when slaked either. If you happened to be prone to infection you'd need to watch it does to open cuts as it isn't pretty, even without infection you can get some nice ulcer things.

Just wear gloves and glasses and be done with it.

Trev

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Charmaine Taylor <charmainertaylor@...> wrote:
>
> Carolyn Roberts the strawbale builder and book author was hospitalized
> with severe lime burns to her hands because during a full lime training
> session with Bill Steen, the bale guru...he never once advised using gloves
> she told me. So like most she assumed it was safe.. because she got no
> serious warning. He assumed people would use common sense and not stick
> bare hands in any building material, Therein lies my concern. And that was
> hydrated lime, not hot lime.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/House-Straw-Odyssey-Natural-Building/dp/1890132306/ref=sr_1_19?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1353876298&sr=1-19&keywords=straw+bale+home
>
> I will tolerate any amount of cheeky derision and silly bitch slapping if
> one person on this list, or who reads it in future, is helped.
>
> Quick lime/hot lime is dangerous for the casual user. Thats why you can't
> get access easily in the US.
>
> The US lime industry has perfected the burning and making of lime for
> building and plaster use.. no black coal bits, no popping and pitting of
> unslaked lime later, no bad feeble lime is sold.
>
> I am certain the Brit home made kiln produced a feebly reactive hot lime...
> it only boils and heats up during slaking. a refined, pure highly reactive
> lime would have behaved far differently if handled like that. nuff said?
>
> Maybe someone can troll the youtubes for the latests *papercrete *vids..
> and share here, they are popping up all the time.
>
>
>
> --
> *Charmaine *
>
> Charmaine Taylor/Publishing & Elk River Press
> PO Box 375 Cutten CA 95534
> www.papercrete.com
>
>
> *Michel de Montaigne:* "The most manifest sign of wisdom is a continual
> cheerfulness."
>
>
>
> *Socrates:* "He is the richest who is content with the least."
>




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com
papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[papercreters] Back in production, finally



http://youtu.be/QHWdWOcIqLM

I didn't post the 3D version.



__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

Sunday, November 25, 2012

[papercreters] newbie Carolyn Roberts plastered home with lime



  Carolyn Roberts the strawbale builder and book author was hospitalized with severe lime burns to her hands because during a full  lime training session with Bill Steen, the bale guru...he never once advised using gloves she told me.  So like most she assumed it was safe.. because she got no serious warning. He assumed people would use common sense and not stick bare hands in any building material,  Therein lies my concern. And that was hydrated lime, not hot lime.

http://www.amazon.com/House-Straw-Odyssey-Natural-Building/dp/1890132306/ref=sr_1_19?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1353876298&sr=1-19&keywords=straw+bale+home

I will tolerate any amount of cheeky derision and silly bitch slapping if one person on this list, or who reads it in future, is helped.

Quick lime/hot lime is dangerous for the casual user. Thats why you can't get access easily in the US.
 
The US lime industry has perfected the burning and making of lime for building and plaster use.. no black coal bits, no popping and pitting of unslaked lime later, no bad feeble lime is sold.

I am certain the Brit home made kiln produced a feebly reactive hot lime... it only boils and heats up during slaking.  a refined, pure highly reactive lime would have behaved far differently if handled like that.  nuff said?  

Maybe someone can troll the youtubes for the latests papercrete vids.. and share here, they are popping up all the time.



--
Charmaine

Charmaine Taylor/Publishing & Elk River Press
PO Box 375 Cutten CA 95534
www.papercrete.com
 

Michel de Montaigne: "The most manifest sign of wisdom is a continual cheerfulness."

 

Socrates: "He is the richest who is content with the least."

 



__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___