Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

[papercreters] Re: FILE LINKS for my research study

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "jennylyn" <jenabenojar@...> wrote:
>
> hello papercreters...
> here are my files regarding my research study in school
> "Waste Paper for Fibrecement Panel"
>
> file capacity exceeded the limit of 5MB therefore I cannot simply add
> files to this group
> this files lasts only for 7 days, in case it expires and you wish to
> have a copy just send me an e-mail
>
> thanks to all! especially to slurryguy (Jay Hawk) and Sir Ernie Phelps.
>
> ASTM Procedures 169 MB
> http://www.filefactory.com/file/bfb3dc/n/ASTM_rar
>
> Evaluation of Waste Paper for Fibrecement Panel 10 MB
>
http://www.filefactory.com/file/b19727/n/EvaluationofWastePaperforFibrecementPanel_pdf">EvaluationofWastePaperforFibrecementPanel.pdf
>

Quite welcome, glad we could be of assistance. I look forward to
reading the docs, I am at work right now and cannot yet.

- Ernie


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Re: [papercreters] FILE LINKS for my research study

Saying that your file exceeds the 5MB limit is like saying an atomic bomb exceeds a hand grenade   : )
Well worth the download, though. All that ASTM info can be really handy! Your test results are interesting, though hard for me to interpret since I live in a primitive country that doesn't use the metric system, one of only three in the world.

If you want, I can put a copy of both at http://files.starship-enterprises.net along with the bunch of other alt building files and miscellaneous other junk. There it won't expire after a few days, and can be linked to from the group home page.

Spaceman


jennylyn wrote:

hello papercreters... here are my files regarding my research study in school "Waste Paper for Fibrecement Panel"  file capacity exceeded the limit of 5MB therefore I cannot simply add files to this group this files lasts only for 7 days, in case it expires and you wish to have a copy just send me an e-mail  thanks to all! especially to slurryguy (Jay Hawk) and Sir Ernie Phelps.  ASTM Procedures 169 MB http://www.filefactory.com/file/bfb3dc/n/ASTM_rar  Evaluation of Waste Paper for Fibrecement Panel 10 MB http://www.filefactory.com/file/b19727/n/EvaluationofWastePaperforFibrecementPanel_pdf">EvaluationofWastePaperforFibrecementPanel.pdf    ------------------------------------  Yahoo! Groups Links  <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/  <*> Your email settings:     Individual Email | Traditional  <*> To change settings online go to:     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join     (Yahoo! ID required)  <*> To change settings via email:     mailto:papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com      mailto:papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com  <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:     papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com  <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/    
 
No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.12/1824 - Release Date: 12/2/2008 9:31 AM
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Tuesday, December 2, 2008

[papercreters] Latest idea of using PTO for papercrete mixer

We're having a time building our mixer because we don't want to have to
drive and tow, I guess. We could not get the electric 6.5 hp motor at
a reasonable price any more. We tried a gas 6.5 hp engine and it still
did not provide enough power to turn the blades through the thick stuff
in an oblong 100 gal. tank.

Hubby bought a car axle, I think it was off an S610 truck?? We are
having to reconfigure the thing, going up through the bottom this time
and just using the one set of blades on one rod instead of the two
rods, a set of two blades each. Jury's still out if this is going to
chop up any paper that collects at the long ends of the oblong tank,
but Hubby seems to think this will work this time. Sure hope so. I
have been waiting a long time for my papercrete mixer--was supposed to
have been my Christmas present last year. :0)

He will then connect this somehow to our tractor's pto to turn it.

Connie


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[papercreters] FILE LINKS for my research study

hello papercreters...
here are my files regarding my research study in school
"Waste Paper for Fibrecement Panel"

file capacity exceeded the limit of 5MB therefore I cannot simply add
files to this group
this files lasts only for 7 days, in case it expires and you wish to
have a copy just send me an e-mail

thanks to all! especially to slurryguy (Jay Hawk) and Sir Ernie Phelps.

ASTM Procedures 169 MB
http://www.filefactory.com/file/bfb3dc/n/ASTM_rar

Evaluation of Waste Paper for Fibrecement Panel 10 MB
http://www.filefactory.com/file/b19727/n/EvaluationofWastePaperforFibrecementPanel_pdf">EvaluationofWastePaperforFibrecementPanel.pdf

------------------------------------

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Re: [papercreters] Re: Horizontal Presses vs Vertical

At 06:20 AM 12/2/2008 +0000, you wrote:

> From what iv read it can increase the r value and make a uniform
>block ,unless you have some tests that show differnt.I dont see a
>problem unless you compress the crap out of it like 10,000 psi but a
>bit just to get the water out shoudnt make a differnce.I have some
>test bricks at our collage now so we will see what they say in a
>couple weeks.

Great , I am very interested in the results.
When I get my press built I am going to try running the paper through a
hammer mill and mixing it with clay, sand and fly ash and try to use as
little water as possible. I am hoping that I can make bricks that are
uniform in thickness .
In my view this will never be taken seriously if you try and convince the
masses that this is a viable idea while apologizing for the uneven size and
shoddy look of the bricks.
.

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[papercreters] Re: Horizontal Presses vs Vertical

From what iv read it can increase the r value and make a uniform
block ,unless you have some tests that show differnt.I dont see a
problem unless you compress the crap out of it like 10,000 psi but a
bit just to get the water out shoudnt make a differnce.I have some
test bricks at our collage now so we will see what they say in a
couple weeks.

-- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, ken bolin <bornofthehorses@...>
wrote:
>
> Just a thought but are you not going to lose the main reason pc
works so well by compressing it. The interlocking fibers and the way
the fibers take coatings (lime, cement, ash and such) wouldn't you be
crushing and breaking most of the coating off plus losing the bond?
Or are the rice hulls and sawdust acting different with the bonding
action?
> Ken
>
> --- On Mon, 12/1/08, smt460 <smt460@...> wrote:
> From: smt460 <smt460@...>
> Subject: [papercreters] Re: Horizontal Presses vs Vertical
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, December 1, 2008, 7:47 AM
>
> Hi what about using the truck box to press panels,line the bottom
> with puck board and devise a way for it to slid out. Clair
>
>
>
> -- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Janoahsh" <janoahsh@>
> wrote:
> >
> > WOW, talk about overkill, a multi stage dump truck ram could
> probably
> > compress wall panels. And only work a few inches of it.
> >
> > I like it!
> >
> > Rice hull fly ash is one of the best pozzelons available and can
be
> mixed as
> > 60 or more % replacement for cement be stronger and more
resilient.
> >
> > The Ferrocement Net discussion group Archives have some
information
> on wood
> > and sawdust cement composites, and I have a few files saved on my
> hard
> > drives.
> >
> > It has lots of merit but is another whole field of study not
much
> different
> > than papercrete. Fresh Saw dust and wood chips need to be aged
or
> leached.
> >
> > I believe you can use a sand clay soil and rice hull fly ash to
> make your
> > own cement without Portland but haven't had time to try it yet.
> What you
> > get from the rice Hull ash is reactive silica's that can combine
> with the
> > silica's and minerals in your clay soils to form molecular bonds
> along with
> > water as a catalyst which in the right proportions can form a
> useful mortar
> > reinforced with wood fibers. Strength, insulation, fire
> resistance, and
> > other characteristics vary by constituent percentages.
> >
> > Pure pozzelon reactions are much slower than Portland cement
> reactions but
> > can be ultimately stronger.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:papercreters@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of peddler8111
> > Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2008 9:48 PM
> > To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [papercreters] Horizontal Presses vs Vertical
> >
> >
> >
> > From my understanding the advantage of a horizontal press is it
> > compresses from the edge of the block and therefore gives a
> consistent
> > thickness so dry stacking is possible. Does anyone know why a
> vertical
> > press could not do the same thing? I could build it horizontally
> but I
> > don't see why I need to as long as the molds and the piston are
> > designed to guarantee consitent thickness by compressing from the
> > edge or the end of the block..
> > I am trying to engineer a small hydraulic or air over hydraulic
> press.
> > If I get serious about a big high production press I was thinking
> > about rebuilding the hydraulic pump and cylinder from an old Chevy
> > dump truck
> > to use. The power would be great enough to compress a half a
dozen
> > blocks at one time or one huge one. I was thinking that I could
> could
> > make the big blocks to sell the states for temporary road
> construction
> > barriers.
> > What they use now is concrete or plastic barriers {filled w/water}
> > which are certainly not real green and I have easy access to
paper
> and
> > a hammer mill, sawdust wood chips,, fly ash and rice hulls and
could
> > make them 1/2 the weight of the concrete and a whole lot more
> giving
> > in case of impact than the concrete.
> >
> >
> >
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> > Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.11/1820 - Release Date:
> 11/29/2008
> > 6:52 PM
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>

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Monday, December 1, 2008

Re: [papercreters] Re: Horizontal Presses vs Vertical

At 08:27 AM 12/1/2008 -0800, you wrote:

Just a thought but are you not going to lose the main reason pc works so well by compressing it. The interlocking fibers and the way the fibers take coatings (lime, cement, ash and such) wouldn't you be crushing and breaking most of the coating off plus losing the bond? Or are the rice hulls and sawdust acting different with the bonding action?
Ken

--- On Mon, 12/1/08, smt460 <smt460@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: smt460 <smt460@yahoo.com>
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Horizontal Presses vs Vertical
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, December 1, 2008, 7:47 AM


Hi what about using the truck box to press panels,line the bottom  with puck board and devise a way for it to slid out. Clair    --  In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Janoahsh" <janoahsh@...> wrote: > > WOW, talk about overkill, a multi stage dump truck ram could  probably > compress wall panels. And only work a few inches of it. >  > I like it! >  > Rice hull fly ash is one of the best pozzelons available and can be  mixed as > 60 or more % replacement for cement be stronger and more  resilient. >  > The Ferrocement Net discussion group Archives have some information  on wood > and sawdust cement composites, and I have a few files saved on my  hard > drives. >  >  It has lots of merit but is another whole field of study not much  different > than papercrete.  Fresh Saw dust and wood chips need to be aged or  leached. >  > I believe you can use a sand clay soil and rice hull fly ash to  make your > own cement without Portland but haven't had time to  try it yet.   What you > get from the rice Hull ash is reactive silica's that can combine  with the > silica's and minerals in your clay soils to form molecular bonds  along with > water as a catalyst which in the right proportions can form a  useful mortar > reinforced with wood fibers.  Strength, insulation, fire  resistance, and > other characteristics vary by constituent percentages. >  > Pure pozzelon reactions are much slower than Portland cement  reactions but > can be ultimately stronger.     >    Overkill is always more fun! 

I just have access to one of those old trucks for free. I can get it free , it may be a bit much though. I am talking about a 2 ton dump truck. I might be able to salvage one of a one ton that would be smaller .
I do not have access to Rice Hull ash , just fly ash from the TVA plants.  I am still not sold on papercrete yet ,having heard of people who lost everything trying to use it.  There are some uses for it I can see but it will never become a mainstream material until it can be produced in uniform blocks.

So far I don't see how to do that except with a press. Apparently it is not so easy as I get no response from the living in paper website when I ask them if they are ready to market their press yet.  Has anyone tried drying the paper and mixing it with soil? It seems a 50/50 mix of paper and earth in a compressed earth block would be a great compromise. If it gave you  half the insulation of papercrete and half the thermal flywheel effect of ceb it would work for me.and might be easier to get approved.  Perception is reality in some cases. You can tell people it does not matter the blocks are irregular but it does.
Not because they are not viable but because the perception is that the quality is poor.

My main focus is to make blocks to build earth ovens from. I think I can use the Rocket Stove technology combined with an mudbrick oven that would be super efficient and not have to be swept every time you use it.. Here in Tennessee many people are still using electric heat while the forest floor is littered with the wood the loggers left behind.  I want to build a really cool outdoor wood heater that will bake bread and pizza a well as heat the house and provide hot water.
I have built one for myself  but it is far from efficient.
The mudbricks would shorten the time to build the ovens by weeks and eliminate the purchase of firebricks. I have a creek with the worlds best clay for that purpose 1000 feet from my door.  . Also I am told  they can be waterproofed enough to make pavers a lot cheaper than with cement .If you can make good quality driveway pavers competitive at all with poured concrete it will sell.

To me the way I would go as far as houses would be either to use rice hulls in a modified stick frame ,12" walls, or a double layer ceb wall with papercrete poured between it for insulation. That was you would have the thermal mass and the insulation .

   

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Re: [papercreters] Re: Horizontal Presses vs Vertical

Just a thought but are you not going to lose the main reason pc works so well by compressing it. The interlocking fibers and the way the fibers take coatings (lime, cement, ash and such) wouldn't you be crushing and breaking most of the coating off plus losing the bond? Or are the rice hulls and sawdust acting different with the bonding action?
Ken

--- On Mon, 12/1/08, smt460 <smt460@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: smt460 <smt460@yahoo.com>
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Horizontal Presses vs Vertical
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, December 1, 2008, 7:47 AM

Hi what about using the truck box to press panels,line the bottom 
with puck board and devise a way for it to slid out. Clair



-- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Janoahsh" <janoahsh@...>
wrote:
>
> WOW, talk about overkill, a multi stage dump truck ram could
probably
> compress wall panels. And only work a few inches of it.
>
> I like it!
>
> Rice hull fly ash is one of the best pozzelons available and can be
mixed as
> 60 or more % replacement for cement be stronger and more resilient.
>
> The Ferrocement Net discussion group Archives have some information
on wood
> and sawdust cement composites, and I have a few files saved on my
hard
> drives.
>
> It has lots of merit but is another whole field of study not much
different
> than papercrete. Fresh Saw dust and wood chips need to be aged or
leached.
>
> I believe you can use a sand clay soil and rice hull fly ash to
make your
> own cement without Portland but haven't had time to try it yet.
What you
> get from the rice Hull ash is reactive silica's that can combine
with the
> silica's and minerals in your clay soils to form molecular bonds
along with
> water as a catalyst which in the right proportions can form a
useful mortar
> reinforced with wood fibers. Strength, insulation, fire
resistance, and
> other characteristics vary by constituent percentages.
>
> Pure pozzelon reactions are much slower than Portland cement
reactions but
> can be ultimately stronger.
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:papercreters@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of peddler8111
> Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2008 9:48 PM
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [papercreters] Horizontal Presses vs Vertical
>
>
>
> From my understanding the advantage of a horizontal press is it
> compresses from the edge of the block and therefore gives a
consistent
> thickness so dry stacking is possible. Does anyone know why a
vertical
> press could not do the same thing? I could build it horizontally
but I
> don't see why I need to as long as the molds and the piston are
> designed to guarantee consitent thickness by compressing from the
> edge or the end of the block..
> I am trying to engineer a small hydraulic or air over hydraulic
press.
> If I get serious about a big high production press I was thinking
> about rebuilding the hydraulic pump and cylinder from an old Chevy
> dump truck
> to use. The power would be great enough to compress a half a dozen
> blocks at one time or one huge one. I was thinking that I could
could
> make the big blocks to sell the states for temporary road
construction
> barriers.
> What they use now is concrete or plastic barriers {filled w/water}
> which are certainly not real green and I have easy access to paper
and
> a hammer mill, sawdust wood chips,, fly ash and rice hulls and could
> make them 1/2 the weight of the concrete and a whole lot more
giving
> in case of impact than the concrete.
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.11/1820 - Release Date:
11/29/2008
> 6:52 PM
>



------------------------------------

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[papercreters] Others in Mexico?

Hello,

I'm a small builder in San Miguel Allende, Mexico and am looking for
building alternatives.I'm tired of wasting all that concrete we use
here. Anyone else doing this near my neck of the woods?

Chris


------------------------------------

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[papercreters] Re: Horizontal Presses vs Vertical

Hi what about using the truck box to press panels,line the bottom
with puck board and devise a way for it to slid out. Clair

-- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Janoahsh" <janoahsh@...> wrote:
>
> WOW, talk about overkill, a multi stage dump truck ram could
probably
> compress wall panels. And only work a few inches of it.
>
> I like it!
>
> Rice hull fly ash is one of the best pozzelons available and can be
mixed as
> 60 or more % replacement for cement be stronger and more resilient.
>
> The Ferrocement Net discussion group Archives have some information
on wood
> and sawdust cement composites, and I have a few files saved on my
hard
> drives.
>
> It has lots of merit but is another whole field of study not much
different
> than papercrete. Fresh Saw dust and wood chips need to be aged or
leached.
>
> I believe you can use a sand clay soil and rice hull fly ash to
make your
> own cement without Portland but haven't had time to try it yet.
What you
> get from the rice Hull ash is reactive silica's that can combine
with the
> silica's and minerals in your clay soils to form molecular bonds
along with
> water as a catalyst which in the right proportions can form a
useful mortar
> reinforced with wood fibers. Strength, insulation, fire
resistance, and
> other characteristics vary by constituent percentages.
>
> Pure pozzelon reactions are much slower than Portland cement
reactions but
> can be ultimately stronger.
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:papercreters@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of peddler8111
> Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2008 9:48 PM
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [papercreters] Horizontal Presses vs Vertical
>
>
>
> From my understanding the advantage of a horizontal press is it
> compresses from the edge of the block and therefore gives a
consistent
> thickness so dry stacking is possible. Does anyone know why a
vertical
> press could not do the same thing? I could build it horizontally
but I
> don't see why I need to as long as the molds and the piston are
> designed to guarantee consitent thickness by compressing from the
> edge or the end of the block..
> I am trying to engineer a small hydraulic or air over hydraulic
press.
> If I get serious about a big high production press I was thinking
> about rebuilding the hydraulic pump and cylinder from an old Chevy
> dump truck
> to use. The power would be great enough to compress a half a dozen
> blocks at one time or one huge one. I was thinking that I could
could
> make the big blocks to sell the states for temporary road
construction
> barriers.
> What they use now is concrete or plastic barriers {filled w/water}
> which are certainly not real green and I have easy access to paper
and
> a hammer mill, sawdust wood chips,, fly ash and rice hulls and could
> make them 1/2 the weight of the concrete and a whole lot more
giving
> in case of impact than the concrete.
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.11/1820 - Release Date:
11/29/2008
> 6:52 PM
>

------------------------------------

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RE: [papercreters] Horizontal Presses vs Vertical

WOW, talk about overkill, a multi stage dump truck ram could probably compress wall panels. And only work a few inches of it.

I like it!

Rice hull fly ash is one of the best pozzelons available and can be mixed as 60 or more % replacement for cement be stronger and more resilient.

The Ferrocement Net discussion group Archives have some information on wood and sawdust cement composites, and I have a few files saved on my hard drives.

 It has lots of merit but is another whole field of study not much different than papercrete.  Fresh Saw dust and wood chips need to be aged or leached.

I believe you can use a sand clay soil and rice hull fly ash to make your own cement without Portland but haven’t had time to try it yet.  What you get from the rice Hull ash is reactive silica’s that can combine with the silica’s and minerals in your clay soils to form molecular bonds along with water as a catalyst which in the right proportions can form a useful mortar reinforced with wood fibers.  Strength, insulation, fire resistance, and other characteristics vary by constituent percentages.

Pure pozzelon reactions are much slower than Portland cement reactions but can be ultimately stronger.   

 

 


From: papercreters@yahoogroups.com [mailto:papercreters@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of peddler8111
Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2008 9:48 PM
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [papercreters] Horizontal Presses vs Vertical

 

From my understanding the advantage of a horizontal press is it
compresses from the edge of the block and therefore gives a consistent
thickness so dry stacking is possible. Does anyone know why a vertical
press could not do the same thing? I could build it horizontally but I
don't see why I need to as long as the molds and the piston are
designed to guarantee consitent thickness by compressing from the
edge or the end of the block..
I am trying to engineer a small hydraulic or air over hydraulic press.
If I get serious about a big high production press I was thinking
about rebuilding the hydraulic pump and cylinder from an old Chevy
dump truck
to use. The power would be great enough to compress a half a dozen
blocks at one time or one huge one. I was thinking that I could could
make the big blocks to sell the states for temporary road construction
barriers.
What they use now is concrete or plastic barriers {filled w/water}
which are certainly not real green and I have easy access to paper and
a hammer mill, sawdust wood chips,, fly ash and rice hulls and could
make them 1/2 the weight of the concrete and a whole lot more giving
in case of impact than the concrete.

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[papercreters] Horizontal Presses vs Vertical

From my understanding the advantage of a horizontal press is it
compresses from the edge of the block and therefore gives a consistent
thickness so dry stacking is possible. Does anyone know why a vertical
press could not do the same thing? I could build it horizontally but I
don't see why I need to as long as the molds and the piston are
designed to guarantee consitent thickness by compressing from the
edge or the end of the block..
I am trying to engineer a small hydraulic or air over hydraulic press.
If I get serious about a big high production press I was thinking
about rebuilding the hydraulic pump and cylinder from an old Chevy
dump truck
to use. The power would be great enough to compress a half a dozen
blocks at one time or one huge one. I was thinking that I could could
make the big blocks to sell the states for temporary road construction
barriers.
What they use now is concrete or plastic barriers {filled w/water}
which are certainly not real green and I have easy access to paper and
a hammer mill, sawdust wood chips,, fly ash and rice hulls and could
make them 1/2 the weight of the concrete and a whole lot more giving
in case of impact than the concrete.

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[papercreters] Re: sawdust fibercrete bricks

Hi Charmaine:

What would be the best book to buy you have on this method?
One of the sawmills here burns the sawdust in a pile, will that ash
work as well as the sawdust?


> TIA
> ++++++++++++++++++
> Yes they are solid and strong- and i have left them exposed to the
elements
> on the back deck for 3 years as a test, and they slowly round down
their
> edges, but stay intact unless handled roughly.. since one will
plaster over
> papecrete and bricks anyway this is my easy solution to building,
less mold
> issues, and faster as no big honking barrell mixer and blade is
needed to
> shred the paper.
>
> I bet if cement were added my bricks would be the same as reg.
papercrete,
> and similar in weight/maybe better in insulation.
>
> I do use clay and lime- no cement for a more natural mix, am using
infilled
> not loadbrearing blocks, and am happy with the easy building it
affords me.
>
> be sure to "cure" any fresh sawdust for 6- 8 weeks- but just letting
it set
> around in bins or bags, or exposed to light. the sugars will affect the
> cement strength and wont set up if you just took a fresh pile of
sawdust and
> used it.
>
> we have mills here and small operators who have big piles of sawdust
avail
> outside free for the taking... you can find a local wood ship too,
they make
> bags of dust daily. a local place makes wood cutting boards, guitar
pieces,
> decorative wood pieces and I get huge sacks od sawdust (mostly
hardwood)
> from them.
>
> I do not know the diff. in soft vs hard, but the US forestry labs in
MI and
> IL have tons of reports on this.. search online
> --
> Ms. Charmaine Taylor/ Taylor Publishing
> www.dirtcheapbuilder.com www. papercrete.com
> PO Box 375, Cutten CA 95534
>

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Saturday, November 29, 2008

[papercreters] sawdust fibercrete bricks

Hi Charmaine

Does it matter what kind of sawdust? Do the bricks come out any more
uniform than papercrete? Can this mix withstand exposure to the
weather at all?
TIA
++++++++++++++++++
Yes they are solid and strong- and i have left them exposed to the elements on the back deck for 3 years as a test, and they  slowly round down their edges, but stay intact unless handled roughly.. since one will plaster over papecrete and bricks anyway this is my easy solution to building, less mold issues, and faster as no big honking barrell mixer and blade is needed to shred the paper.
 
I bet if cement were added my bricks would be the same as reg. papercrete, and  similar in weight/maybe better in insulation.
 
I do use clay and lime- no cement for a more natural mix, am using infilled  not loadbrearing blocks, and am happy with the easy building it affords me.
 
be sure to "cure" any fresh sawdust for 6- 8 weeks- but just letting it set around in bins or bags, or exposed to light.  the sugars will affect the cement strength and wont set up if you just took a fresh pile of sawdust and used it.
 
we have mills here and small operators who have big piles of sawdust avail outside free for the taking... you can find a local wood ship too, they make bags of dust daily.  a local place makes wood cutting boards, guitar pieces, decorative wood pieces and I get  huge sacks od sawdust (mostly hardwood) from them.
 
I do not know the diff. in soft vs hard, but the US forestry labs in MI and IL have tons of reports on this.. search online
--
Ms. Charmaine  Taylor/ Taylor Publishing
www.dirtcheapbuilder.com   www. papercrete.com        
PO Box 375, Cutten CA 95534
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Friday, November 28, 2008

[papercreters] Re: AUGER- vs MY wringer WASHMACHINE MIXER

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Charmaine Taylor"
<dirtcheapbuilderbooks@...> wrote:
>
> Charmaine has used an old washing machine and had good batches,
> but IIRC it took quite a while to break up. Correct me if I'm
> wrong, Charmaine.
>
> --
>
> hI spaceman- nope, you iz wrong.. I usly only redwood sawdust and
fine
> cross shredded paper,and have had great success as a MIXER using the old
> wringer washer it just agitates the small paper and sawdust very well..
> does not chop.. so for a nice slow mixer -- I fill with water 1/3
full, add
> wet clay and sawdust and some lime, and let it run -- chuga chuga--
for 30
> minutes, and have the perfect wet mix to pour into blocks--- or I
place A
> window screen over the washer, and dump a bucket of mix on it, and
let it
> drain a bit-- the longer it drains the stiffer and more sculptable
the mix--
> great for making shaped objects-- like animal figures, pottery -over
wire
> mesh type work. or into a block form, and then left to dry in the
sun...
> since I do not add cement I need not worry over it sitting in the
washer
> for days on end, just add more water and turn on again to stir it up.
>
> the 3 winged upright blade of the washer agitator just swivels sharply
> back and forth- in a 90 deg. arc, so it blends in all the clay
well.. and
> has a nice sound to work by.... kinda the "female touch" to alt.
> building.. but themn I started out making "kitchencrete" with my
blender and
> fppd propcessors, using strainers, cookie pans, big forks, tuna cans to
> bake test samples in a roaster bag to mimic 90 day cure--- and
branched out
> to bigger equirment like the wringer washer <grin>
>
> Ms. Charmaine Taylor/ Taylor Publishing
> www.dirtcheapbuilder.com www. papercrete.com
> PO Box 375, Cutten CA 95534
>

Hi Charmaine

Does it matter what kind of sawdust? Do the bricks come out any more
uniform than papercrete? Can this mix withstand exposure to the
weather at all?
TIA

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Re: [papercreters] pole auger

Pictures can be posted on the list, but they will not be archived, and will not appear in the digest. Only people getting individual messages will see them. The better way would be to upload them into the files section of the list. I say files rather than photos because photos are derezed by the yahooligans and become low quality. Files are not tampered with, and if you click on a link to a jpg, it will open in your browser at the original resolution.

Actually, both would be good. Include the picture in your post, but also upload it as a file at the group home page, and include the link in your message. That way everyone on the list will have a chance to see it.



http://starship-enterprises.net/spraypercrete/smallerfiles/

Spaceman

Bob Gilbert wrote:

I also am following this thread as I have an auger. could you send me  pictures also.  Thanks, Bob   ----- Original Message -----  From: "Charmaine Taylor" <dirtcheapbuilderbooks@gmail.com> To: <papercreters@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2008 2:05 PM Subject: [papercreters] pole auger     
Here is my next "out of the box" idea.  A Power post hole auger in side a 55 gallon drum. Has any one tried this? You could put a cutter type blade on the bottom of the auger and a steel plate in the bottom of the barrel with a centering bushing to keep the auger centered. The auger rpm is about 160.  Any thoughts?  Thanks,  Tom --    Tom- the use of a small boat turbine blade on the end of a stem powered by a 1/2 HP motor has shredded paper very well in a plastic drum.. so on design principle it might work....  I can email you a pic on request   Ms. Charmaine  Taylor/ Taylor Publishing 707 441-1632 www.dirtcheapbuilder.com   www. papercrete.com     
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[papercreters] AUGER- vs MY wringer WASHMACHINE MIXER

Charmaine has used an old washing machine and had good batches,
but IIRC it took quite a while to break up. Correct me if I'm
wrong, Charmaine.

--
 
hI  spaceman-  nope, you iz wrong.. I usly only redwood sawdust  and fine cross shredded paper,and have had great success as a MIXER using the old wringer washer  it just agitates the small paper and sawdust very well.. does not chop.. so for a nice slow mixer -- I fill with water 1/3 full, add wet clay and sawdust and some lime, and let it run -- chuga chuga-- for 30 minutes, and have the perfect wet mix to pour into  blocks---  or I place  A window screen over the washer, and dump a bucket of mix on it, and let it drain a bit-- the longer it drains the stiffer and more sculptable the mix-- great for making shaped objects-- like animal figures, pottery -over wire mesh type work.  or into a block form, and then left to dry in the sun...   since I do   not add cement I need not worry over it sitting in the washer for days on end, just add more water and turn on again to stir it  up.
 
the  3 winged upright blade of the washer  agitator just swivels sharply back and forth- in a 90 deg. arc, so it blends in all the clay well.. and has a nice sound to work by....   kinda the "female touch" to alt. building.. but themn I started out making "kitchencrete" with my blender and fppd propcessors, using strainers, cookie pans,  big forks, tuna cans to bake test samples in a roaster bag to mimic 90 day cure--- and branched out to bigger equirment like the wringer washer   <grin>

Ms. Charmaine  Taylor/ Taylor Publishing
www.dirtcheapbuilder.com   www. papercrete.com        
PO Box 375, Cutten CA 95534
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Re: [papercreters] pole auger

I also am following this thread as I have an auger. could you send me
pictures also.

Thanks,
Bob


----- Original Message -----
From: "Charmaine Taylor" <dirtcheapbuilderbooks@gmail.com>
To: <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2008 2:05 PM
Subject: [papercreters] pole auger


> Here is my next "out of the box" idea.
>
> A Power post hole auger in side a 55 gallon drum. Has any one tried
> this? You could put a cutter type blade on the bottom of the auger and
> a steel plate in the bottom of the barrel with a centering bushing to
> keep the auger centered. The auger rpm is about 160.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom
> --
>
>
> Tom- the use of a small boat turbine blade on the end of a stem
> powered by a 1/2 HP motor has shredded paper very well in a plastic
> drum.. so on design principle it might work.... I can email you a pic
> on request
>
>
> Ms. Charmaine Taylor/ Taylor Publishing
> 707 441-1632
> www.dirtcheapbuilder.com www. papercrete.com

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Internal Virus Database is out of date.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.9/1803 - Release Date: 11/21/2008
9:37 AM


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[papercreters] Re: pole auger

Little caution- I have used an auger to mix the heavies- works good
-remember the auger is strong enough to throw you and it over an 8
foot fence- be safe - Clyde--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com,
"Charmaine Taylor" <dirtcheapbuilderbooks@...> wrote:
>
> Here is my next "out of the box" idea.
>
> A Power post hole auger in side a 55 gallon drum. Has any one tried
> this? You could put a cutter type blade on the bottom of the auger and
> a steel plate in the bottom of the barrel with a centering bushing to
> keep the auger centered. The auger rpm is about 160.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom
> --
>
>
> Tom- the use of a small boat turbine blade on the end of a stem
> powered by a 1/2 HP motor has shredded paper very well in a plastic
> drum.. so on design principle it might work.... I can email you a pic
> on request
>
>
> Ms. Charmaine Taylor/ Taylor Publishing
> 707 441-1632
> www.dirtcheapbuilder.com www. papercrete.com
> PO Box 375, Cutten CA 95534
>

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[papercreters] Update on press

Well we have had good progress this week the base is mounted the
motor and punps are mounted the hyd levers too.Are starting to mount
the cylinders today and make the gate,push ram.Iv made some test
bricks 1 pc and portland 50/50/compressed 50%,2 pc/portland silica
sand ,3 pc/drywall silica sand.Paper,portland,silica when compressed
makes a nice solid brick,we put it into our hyd stand press just to
see if it would work.At 500 psi it was 2 min and we took it out ,was
nice and solid,just paper and portland compressed to much.The drywall
portland and silica and paper hmmm bruce dint mush it up well and it
has lumps but more experiments instore for the weekend.We saw a
friend from an oil company and showed him a test brick ,i have
imbeded a pice of drill stem into a block of pc and silica mix and
compressed it 50% in 1 hr you could lift it buy the pipe is very
dense,he will be taking it to Calgary for testing by the company he
works for as soon as it cures.He called them and they want to see it
asap.We have had lots of people shooting at the well sites and
bursting pipes ,if we can encase them with this it will be huge.I
also contacted the center for reserch and innovation and they will
help document this stuff for free and help us get gov grants for
testing, recycling.Has been a awsome week.Well dont eat to much
turkey and just remember who your giving thanks to this weekend,God
bless chat to you soon,Clair.ps will post some pics tonight.


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[papercreters] Re: Power post hole auger mixer?

Sounds good but i think it will be to slow,im building a 55 gal one
with a lawnmower eng attached at the bottom with a plate and strong
post and bushing will be done tomorrow.Will post some pics.


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Re: [papercreters] Re: Power post hole auger mixer?

I have had better luck with faster speeds with my mixers. You want the paper to completely come apart into individual fibers, and slow agitation just doesn't seem to break it up very fast. Charmaine has used an old washing machine and had good batches, but IIRC it took quite a while to break up. Correct me if I'm wrong, Charmaine.

Does the auger reverse? I've been thinking about a mixer that would push paper through a heavy grill, using something like that auger put into a pipe that fits snugly. It might push pulp through a steel grate, grinding it along the way.

At first I was thrilled with the spray washer mixing, but I'm looking for parts to fix the big no-tow mixer now. The spray washer does a good job, it just takes too long compared to that whirling blade. I bought the biggest power washer I could find, powered by a 13hp motor and making 4,000 psi at 3.6gpm, so even though I normally run it at about 3/4 throttle that should be plenty of power. It takes a 50 gallon drum about 20 minutes to fill up. In the same time I can do 150 gallons in the large mixer, don't have to stand there and wiggle the wand, and don't get wet from splashback. I toss in paper and turn on the water, start the engine, let out the clutch, set the throttle, and walk away for 15 minutes. By then the paper is pretty much pulped and the tank is full so I come back and turn off the water, and rev the engine a few times to make sure there are no hidden lumps, and it's done. Much easier and 3x as fast in production. Plus I can work on something else during those 15 minutes, like setting up the next load with paper and additives measured out, working on forms, unclogging the pump, stuff like that.

Spaceman

synergialearning wrote:

Well the unit I am looking at puts out 150 ft lb of torque! Remember these things are designed to dig through hard dirt. I have seen some folks here using drill motors for 55 gallon batches. I think this would have more torque. Slower rpm though so I am still wondering about that. What is the rpm of the average tow mixer?  Thanks for any input.  Tom    
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Thursday, November 27, 2008

[papercreters] Re: Power post hole auger mixer?

Well the unit I am looking at puts out 150 ft lb of torque! Remember
these things are designed to dig through hard dirt. I have seen some
folks here using drill motors for 55 gallon batches. I think this
would have more torque. Slower rpm though so I am still wondering
about that. What is the rpm of the average tow mixer?

Thanks for any input.

Tom

In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "David-\"The Hern\"" <jerrydave1@...>
wrote:
>
> Sounds good to me homey, but I wonder if a lack of torque torque might
> ness you up.
>
> Try it and see!
>
> Dave.
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "synergialearning" <tweistar@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Here is my next "out of the box" idea.
> >
> > A Power post hole auger in side a 55 gallon drum. Has any one tried
> > this? You could put a cutter type blade on the bottom of the auger and
> > a steel plate in the bottom of the barrel with a centering bushing to
> > keep the auger centered. The auger rpm is about 160.
> >
> > Any thoughts?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Tom
> >
>

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[papercreters] Re: Power post hole auger mixer?

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "David-\"The Hern\""
<jerrydave1@...> wrote:
>
> Sounds good to me homey, but I wonder if a lack of torque torque might
> ness you up.
>
> Try it and see!
>
> Dave.
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "synergialearning" <tweistar@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Here is my next "out of the box" idea.
> >
> > A Power post hole auger in side a 55 gallon drum. Has any one tried
> > this? You could put a cutter type blade on the bottom of the auger and
> > a steel plate in the bottom of the barrel with a centering bushing to
> > keep the auger centered. The auger rpm is about 160.
> >
> > Any thoughts?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Tom
> >
>
Lack of torque? I don't think so... A post hole digger can knock you n
your butt. I think its a good idea. I would want to make it so it
can't jump out of the bottom bushing though, or you could have a good
bit of excitement when it starts banging around in the barrel at 160RPM
MarkC


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Re: [papercreters] Re: Power post hole auger mixer?

Most post hole augers that I have used do not lack in torque so it might be a great alternative to try.
Ben

--- On Thu, 11/27/08, David-"The Hern" <jerrydave1@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
From: David-"The Hern" <jerrydave1@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Power post hole auger mixer?
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, November 27, 2008, 9:18 PM

Sounds good to me homey, but I wonder if a lack of torque torque might
ness you up.

Try it and see!

Dave.
--- In papercreters@ yahoogroups. com, "synergialearning" <tweistar@.. .>
wrote:
>
> Here is my next "out of the box" idea.
>
> A Power post hole auger in side a 55 gallon drum. Has any one tried
> this? You could put a cutter type blade on the bottom of the auger and
> a steel plate in the bottom of the barrel with a centering bushing to
> keep the auger centered. The auger rpm is about 160.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom
>


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[papercreters] Re: Power post hole auger mixer?

Sounds good to me homey, but I wonder if a lack of torque torque might
ness you up.

Try it and see!

Dave.
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "synergialearning" <tweistar@...>
wrote:
>
> Here is my next "out of the box" idea.
>
> A Power post hole auger in side a 55 gallon drum. Has any one tried
> this? You could put a cutter type blade on the bottom of the auger and
> a steel plate in the bottom of the barrel with a centering bushing to
> keep the auger centered. The auger rpm is about 160.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom
>

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[papercreters] pole auger

Here is my next "out of the box" idea.

A Power post hole auger in side a 55 gallon drum. Has any one tried
this? You could put a cutter type blade on the bottom of the auger and
a steel plate in the bottom of the barrel with a centering bushing to
keep the auger centered. The auger rpm is about 160.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Tom
--


Tom- the use of a small boat turbine blade on the end of a stem
powered by a 1/2 HP motor has shredded paper very well in a plastic
drum.. so on design principle it might work.... I can email you a pic
on request


Ms. Charmaine Taylor/ Taylor Publishing
707 441-1632
www.dirtcheapbuilder.com www. papercrete.com
PO Box 375, Cutten CA 95534

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Re: [papercreters] Re: 11/27/08

Well at least it's the dry and dusty side of Texas. haha

--- On Thu, 11/27/08, Curtis Stewart <dbigkahunna@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: Curtis Stewart <dbigkahunna@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Re: 11/27/08
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, November 27, 2008, 6:06 PM

Same to you from the Giant Side of Texas!

--- On Wed, 11/26/08, peddler8111 <fpcharnock@earthlin k.net> wrote:
From: peddler8111 <fpcharnock@earthlin k.net>
Subject: [papercreters] Re: 11/27/08
To: papercreters@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Wednesday, November 26, 2008, 11:21 PM

--- In papercreters@ yahoogroups. com, Pat B Parham
<texasweldinginspec tor@...> wrote:
>
> Hope all have a GREAT and safe turkeyday.
>

You to!



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Re: [papercreters] Re: 11/27/08

Same to you from the Giant Side of Texas!

--- On Wed, 11/26/08, peddler8111 <fpcharnock@earthlink.net> wrote:
From: peddler8111 <fpcharnock@earthlink.net>
Subject: [papercreters] Re: 11/27/08
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, November 26, 2008, 11:21 PM

--- In papercreters@ yahoogroups. com, Pat B Parham
<texasweldinginspec tor@...> wrote:
>
> Hope all have a GREAT and safe turkeyday.
>

You to!


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