I am designing a project that uses papercrete. I read that someone was making papercrete for 8.7 cents per cubic foot, which sounds a little on the low side to me.
I would appreciate it if the members here could post their own costs for comparison.
I would also appreciate any thoughts on low cost sealer coatings for ground contact areas, and any general thoughts on the application of papercrete in the project. Project links:
Early 4 place pallet design
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I'm excited about putting UP a post & beam structure approx 17 X 12 ft. which will include a porch deck.( my new CLAY studio !! ) I*'m plan to frame it our w/ 24 " between 2" X 4" post & larger corner post. I'm thinking of using papercrete infill between perhaps 1 X 12 tagged on across the beams. horazontally .. & then pour papercrete in the form. I'm thinking of putting nails / screws in the beams to secure it due to shrinkage. ( And then fill cracks after drying.) and then .. of course work my way UP each day... to the top. Expectations on shrinkage. I hear that more cement will lessen the shrinkage. Any other tips ? I probably won't actually start this infix until next spring ... as the season will soon change. ( N CA )
THANKS in advance for any tips or suggested formulas. The mix I know be 85% pulp... 10 % earth, 5 % portland cement.
In appreciation, Sir Glenneth- from " the land of Cobb "
Hi all! I'm brand new to yahoo groups in general and this page and papercrete in particular. I've been offered an opportunity to rent on an acre of land. I'm excited, and want to take the offer, but must come up with a housing plan. I am a single mom and part time student. Do you think it's possible to get a tiny house built before mid October? (when it usually starts getting cold here)Single mom and part time student - sounds like your plate is pretty full. While it is possible to get a tiny house built by mid-October, it won't be dry or ready for sealing. "Possible" with lots of labor. Papercrete is labor intensive. You can prevent some of the physical labor by buying expensive equipment like a real trash rated pump and a good mixer. You need a ready source of paper, lots of it.
Papercrete is not a vapor barrier and will do nothing to prevent off-gassing by plywood. A used shed should have already lost most of the formaldehyde but you still would want a barrier. If you have access to a tow mixer and plenty of paper it would probably be easier to start from scratch, form some papercrete walls and then put a shed roof on it, covered with papercrete.
If I need something to hold me through the winter. Would papercreting the inside of a used shed (made of plywood) prevent the off gassing of formaldehyde from the walls? and get us through the winter? There are plenty of sheds for sale for $250-1000. What would it cost, approximately, to cover the internal walls with papercrete? Would it still be safe to use a wood burning stove?
Here's one way - molded panels placed on a frame. For a shed you could mold large thin panels, maybe 4'x4'x4", and screw them to the walls.
How do I find out how people start their walls?
You came to the right place for questions :) Ask all you want. It has been kinda dead around here lately and we can use the stimulation.
I know this is a lot of questions in one. Sorry for that. I'm looking forward to the words of those wiser than myself. Thank you!