Friday, March 30, 2018

Re: [papercreters] Re: flyash



Actually, when the reciprocal roof failed, the logs floated down, so gently.  I had done the math correctly, which did make me feel good.  We went with a temporary answer to the roof, but as soon as most of it is poured, we will change our the 4 logs for drill stem, appropriately bent with vines and leaves.  Pictures of the roof soon, we are about to finish a huge section of it. 

We are using an electric system, with a 5HP motor to pulp our paper.  We are recovering about 60% of the water to be used again.  This also saves a lot of work when hauling it up onto the roof. 

We are in Bedias, we welcome visitors.  Overnight guests via hipcamp, so we have liability coverage.



On 3/30/2018 8:43 AM, Murry Holley murry.holley@yahoo.com [papercreters] wrote:
 
Hello Kim
Hope all is going well for you.

So sorry to hear about your reciprocal roof that failed. I know that had to be a real disappointment. Was anyone hurt was there any collateral damage.

Glad to hear that you are moving on with the new system. I would love to see some phots.
Best
Murry



On Tuesday, March 27, 2018, 6:07:55 PM CDT, Kim Travis gartht@windstream.net [papercreters] <papercreters@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 

I have been looking at the flyash, I will admit it makes me nervous to work with.  It has so many carcinogenic substances in it.  I am not sure I will proceed. 

My roof mixture is simple, 50/50 dry paper and cement by weight.  The bottom layer, that is between the rafters is held in place by a sheet, when dry.  We use boards to hold it until it dries.  Then a layer of heavy fencing that is tied down with plumbing strap, and another 5 inches of paper crete on top of that, that goes over the rafters.  The top coat is petrified hessian. 


Our walls are the same mix of paper and cement, but we add sand.  My mixer nicely handles 30 lbs of paper, so it gets about 30 pound of cement and ten pounds of sand in the walls.  I found that here where life is very humid, any clay will start growing.  I do not want weeds growing on my walls. 


We had tried a reciprocal roof, that failed.  And I didn't like it, the pitch was way too high, so when it failed, we were not all that upset.  Except we wasted a years work on it.  And I had to redo the drawings etc.  We have made a few more changes, the house is growing organically.  But, the final product is getting closer and closer to what I really want. 


On 3/27/2018 7:34 AM, Murry Holley murry.holley@yahoo.com [papercreters] wrote:
 
Hello Kim
Hope things are going well on your project. I finally finished my Papercrete just before Thanksgiving. All and all it was about 2,000 cubic feet to pour. I used a slip form. We poured new Papercrete walls against our existing Mobil home. W' e have free standing Papercrete at the addition. I have enclosed a picture of the form system and the finished pour. I still have to do the skim coat and waterproofing coat.

To the Flyash issue, I have not heard of flyash as a stand alone binder. Typically in concrete it is used as a supplement to cement to reduce the amount of cement required.

Before i began construction on our house i built a barn as my testing lab.  for my initial work I tried to maximize paper and minimize binder.  I did a mix with lime and wood ash that was very promising. The logistics of trying to get that much ash mad it seem like more than I could manage.

The mix i test was ( by weight)
paper     28%
clay        40%
Wood ash 19%
lime         13%
This was a stronger product than what i was getting with what I thought was comparable with cement. When I finally got a mix that I thought was what i need i got some compression tests. Compression strength was way too low.

Based on my final cement mix I think you can test a mix with these proportions ( by weight)
Paper newsprint)     14%
Clay                        15%
Sand                        27%
Ash                        27%
Lime                     17%

Please let me know what you come up with.

Best
Murry Holley






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Posted by: Kim Travis <gartht@windstream.net>



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Re: [papercreters] Re: flyash



Hello Kim
Hope all is going well for you.

So sorry to hear about your reciprocal roof that failed. I know that had to be a real disappointment. Was anyone hurt was there any collateral damage.

Glad to hear that you are moving on with the new system. I would love to see some phots.
Best
Murry



On Tuesday, March 27, 2018, 6:07:55 PM CDT, Kim Travis gartht@windstream.net [papercreters] <papercreters@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 

I have been looking at the flyash, I will admit it makes me nervous to work with.  It has so many carcinogenic substances in it.  I am not sure I will proceed. 

My roof mixture is simple, 50/50 dry paper and cement by weight.  The bottom layer, that is between the rafters is held in place by a sheet, when dry.  We use boards to hold it until it dries.  Then a layer of heavy fencing that is tied down with plumbing strap, and another 5 inches of paper crete on top of that, that goes over the rafters.  The top coat is petrified hessian. 


Our walls are the same mix of paper and cement, but we add sand.  My mixer nicely handles 30 lbs of paper, so it gets about 30 pound of cement and ten pounds of sand in the walls.  I found that here where life is very humid, any clay will start growing.  I do not want weeds growing on my walls. 


We had tried a reciprocal roof, that failed.  And I didn't like it, the pitch was way too high, so when it failed, we were not all that upset.  Except we wasted a years work on it.  And I had to redo the drawings etc.  We have made a few more changes, the house is growing organically.  But, the final product is getting closer and closer to what I really want. 


On 3/27/2018 7:34 AM, Murry Holley murry.holley@yahoo.com [papercreters] wrote:
 
Hello Kim
Hope things are going well on your project. I finally finished my Papercrete just before Thanksgiving. All and all it was about 2,000 cubic feet to pour. I used a slip form. We poured new Papercrete walls against our existing Mobil home. W' e have free standing Papercrete at the addition. I have enclosed a picture of the form system and the finished pour. I still have to do the skim coat and waterproofing coat.

To the Flyash issue, I have not heard of flyash as a stand alone binder. Typically in concrete it is used as a supplement to cement to reduce the amount of cement required.

Before i began construction on our house i built a barn as my testing lab.  for my initial work I tried to maximize paper and minimize binder.  I did a mix with lime and wood ash that was very promising. The logistics of trying to get that much ash mad it seem like more than I could manage.

The mix i test was ( by weight)
paper     28%
clay        40%
Wood ash 19%
lime         13%
This was a stronger product than what i was getting with what I thought was comparable with cement. When I finally got a mix that I thought was what i need i got some compression tests. Compression strength was way too low.

Based on my final cement mix I think you can test a mix with these proportions ( by weight)
Paper newsprint)     14%
Clay                        15%
Sand                        27%
Ash                        27%
Lime                     17%

Please let me know what you come up with.

Best
Murry Holley






altVirus-free. www.avast.com


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Posted by: Murry Holley <murry.holley@yahoo.com>



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Re: [papercreters] Re: flyash



Hello Michael
Hope all is going well for you. I am not familiar with Odem is it near Beeville?

Thanks you know it was a long time coming.

I used a 2, tall form. In an attempt to keep a continuous operation and minimize form material. i set forms to do half the house. For the half I set up forms to make 3 sections. We poured section one, let it set while we poured section 2 and raised section 1 while we poured section 3. each section took a day to pour.

Shrinkage is a real problem. We would fill the form by the time we got to the end of the pour the first part dropped by 1/3. It would take a bout 3 passes to get the form full. Still next day would be some shrinkage plus curl at the top. maybe you can see all that in the photo. Good news a skim cot goes on pretty easy. But still the whole wall has to be skimmed out.

I made a lot of block that i ended up pouring  in the wall. Where we used block shrinkage was not as bad. Quality of block made laying block not a good option.

I made the block adobe style which does not work well for papercrete. I found to get a good block I had to form the bottom as well as the sides. This also slowed the rate that the water could get out of the block and the block stayed to a more uniform size.

So i do not know if a block wall would need a skim coat. There are so many variables it is hard to say which approach requires most effort and cost.

Good luck with your project. I did have on serious problem with production. I averaged about 500 cubic feet per rear end in the tow mixer. for my 2000 cubic feet I changed out the rear end  4 times. That was a problem!



On Thursday, March 29, 2018, 6:59:26 PM CDT, michael joyce mojojoyce@yahoo.com [papercreters] <papercreters@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 

Hello Murry, Im getting ready to build sound wall to stop traffic noise  with slip mold . was curious how long did you wait between lifts.. congrats on your accomplishment.  Ive moved to Odem just north of Corpus n  later plan to add papercrete building to garage for rental home

On Tuesday, March 27, 2018, 7:37:23 AM CDT, Murry Holley murry.holley@yahoo.com [papercreters] <papercreters@yahoogroups.com> wrote:




Hello Kim
Hope things are going well on your project. I finally finished my Papercrete just before Thanksgiving. All and all it was about 2,000 cubic feet to pour. I used a slip form. We poured new Papercrete walls against our existing Mobil home. W' e have free standing Papercrete at the addition. I have enclosed a picture of the form system and the finished pour. I still have to do the skim coat and waterproofing coat.

To the Flyash issue, I have not heard of flyash as a stand alone binder. Typically in concrete it is used as a supplement to cement to reduce the amount of cement required.

Before i began construction on our house i built a barn as my testing lab.  for my initial work I tried to maximize paper and minimize binder.  I did a mix with lime and wood ash that was very promising. The logistics of trying to get that much ash mad it seem like more than I could manage.

The mix i test was ( by weight)
paper     28%
clay        40%
Wood ash 19%
lime         13%
This was a stronger product than what i was getting with what I thought was comparable with cement. When I finally got a mix that I thought was what i need i got some compression tests. Compression strength was way too low.

Based on my final cement mix I think you can test a mix with these proportions ( by weight)
Paper newsprint)     14%
Clay                        15%
Sand                        27%
Ash                        27%
Lime                     17%

Please let me know what you come up with.

Best
Murry Holley








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Posted by: Murry Holley <murry.holley@yahoo.com>



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Re: [papercreters] Re: flyash



I have been moving my forms on my walls every 24 hours without a problem.  Fill with papercrete,  wait 24 hours, move the forms and fill again.


On 3/29/2018 6:58 PM, michael joyce mojojoyce@yahoo.com [papercreters] wrote:
 
Hello Murry, Im getting ready to build sound wall to stop traffic noise  with slip mold . was curious how long did you wait between lifts.. congrats on your accomplishment.  Ive moved to Odem just north of Corpus n  later plan to add papercrete building to garage for rental home

On Tuesday, March 27, 2018, 7:37:23 AM CDT, Murry Holley murry.holley@yahoo.com [papercreters] <papercreters@yahoogroups.com> wrote:




Hello Kim
Hope things are going well on your project. I finally finished my Papercrete just before Thanksgiving. All and all it was about 2,000 cubic feet to pour. I used a slip form. We poured new Papercrete walls against our existing Mobil home. W' e have free standing Papercrete at the addition. I have enclosed a picture of the form system and the finished pour. I still have to do the skim coat and waterproofing coat.

To the Flyash issue, I have not heard of flyash as a stand alone binder. Typically in concrete it is used as a supplement to cement to reduce the amount of cement required.

Before i began construction on our house i built a barn as my testing lab.  for my initial work I tried to maximize paper and minimize binder.  I did a mix with lime and wood ash that was very promising. The logistics of trying to get that much ash mad it seem like more than I could manage.

The mix i test was ( by weight)
paper     28%
clay        40%
Wood ash 19%
lime         13%
This was a stronger product than what i was getting with what I thought was comparable with cement. When I finally got a mix that I thought was what i need i got some compression tests. Compression strength was way too low.

Based on my final cement mix I think you can test a mix with these proportions ( by weight)
Paper newsprint)     14%
Clay                        15%
Sand                        27%
Ash                        27%
Lime                     17%

Please let me know what you come up with.

Best
Murry Holley








Virus-free. www.avast.com


__._,_.___

Posted by: Kim Travis <gartht@windstream.net>



__,_._,___

Thursday, March 29, 2018

Re: [papercreters] Re: flyash



Hello Murry, Im getting ready to build sound wall to stop traffic noise  with slip mold . was curious how long did you wait between lifts.. congrats on your accomplishment.  Ive moved to Odem just north of Corpus n  later plan to add papercrete building to garage for rental home

On Tuesday, March 27, 2018, 7:37:23 AM CDT, Murry Holley murry.holley@yahoo.com [papercreters] <papercreters@yahoogroups.com> wrote:




Hello Kim
Hope things are going well on your project. I finally finished my Papercrete just before Thanksgiving. All and all it was about 2,000 cubic feet to pour. I used a slip form. We poured new Papercrete walls against our existing Mobil home. W' e have free standing Papercrete at the addition. I have enclosed a picture of the form system and the finished pour. I still have to do the skim coat and waterproofing coat.

To the Flyash issue, I have not heard of flyash as a stand alone binder. Typically in concrete it is used as a supplement to cement to reduce the amount of cement required.

Before i began construction on our house i built a barn as my testing lab.  for my initial work I tried to maximize paper and minimize binder.  I did a mix with lime and wood ash that was very promising. The logistics of trying to get that much ash mad it seem like more than I could manage.

The mix i test was ( by weight)
paper     28%
clay        40%
Wood ash 19%
lime         13%
This was a stronger product than what i was getting with what I thought was comparable with cement. When I finally got a mix that I thought was what i need i got some compression tests. Compression strength was way too low.

Based on my final cement mix I think you can test a mix with these proportions ( by weight)
Paper newsprint)     14%
Clay                        15%
Sand                        27%
Ash                        27%
Lime                     17%

Please let me know what you come up with.

Best
Murry Holley








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Posted by: michael joyce <mojojoyce@yahoo.com>



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[papercreters] Re: Digest Number 2704



Dear Kim,
I have attached the research paper on fly ash.
Regards
Ashok


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Posted by: Ashok Mathur <ashokchand2000@yahoo.com>



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Tuesday, March 27, 2018

Re: [papercreters] Re: flyash



thank you


On 3/27/2018 10:22 AM, ashokchand2000@yahoo.com [papercreters] wrote:
 

Dear Kim,

Studies done in India recommend that upto 40% of cement weight can be repalced by fly ash with improved strength.
Regards
Ashok


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Posted by: Kim Travis <gartht@windstream.net>



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