Friday, January 15, 2016

[papercreters] Reciprocal roof going up.



Sorry for the late notice, but looks like the weather will be cooperating for the roof logs to go up on the house starting on Sunday. We still need to cut the rummies, figure out the charlie stick and put the scaffold up, but, most people want to learn that part. The logs will be ready to go on Sunday, January 17th, so we will be working on it. RSVP appreciated so I can make sure I have enough food. We don't start until 10AM, to let it warm up, no working with cold muscles. Garth and I will be working until this job is done, or it rains. But it looks like it could be Thursday before we get rained out, so the roof could be finished and a possible start on the patio. Strong muscles very welcome. https://reciprocalroof.wordpress.com/ will tell the story until now, we are about to write a new chapter. Email or pm to get directions etc.

--   PK
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Posted by: Kim <gartht@windstream.net>



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Saturday, December 26, 2015

[papercreters] Re: Papercrete and frost



to my knowledge NO cement/concrete work is done below 40 degrees for the reason Clyde mentions..delamination, spalling, cracking of new work like sidewalks, etc is a total waste of time and materials, money.  


..but with just 10% actual cement powder mixed into paper you COULD try making test batches INSIDE a garage, or other sheltered area.

I live in the wet PacNW…expecting large pours to dry and cure even in 'summer' is iffy and takes too long..so I began making lots of test bricks and "insertable" blocks made in cardboard boxes or self-made forms ( using bakery dry racks, etc)..., and let them start drying in the sun, covered by scrap glass…on a sun warmed driveway, or let them cure inside the big shed.

I did a wet pour between old redwood framing in my big studio…the  back wall was redwood…I tacked thin ply, or burlap/gauze cloth firmly over the studs..then cardboard..just until the wet mix dried up not to bulge out…pull off the cardboard, and the burlap allows drying to keep going. all windows and doors remain open to allow air thru..it still took a month to fully dry out…shrink a bit..more wet mix is  placed in gaps…or I just then used a clay-lime-sawdust plaster over the wall before doing a final coat of lime plaster.

I use a lot of free sawdust with my clay and paper..makes a great working material, not too wet, so not a traditional papercrete..but free, and no chopping/or motor mixer/grinder  needed with sawdust.


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Posted by: charmainertaylor@gmail.com



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[papercreters] Tow-in mixer problem: water infiltration



Hello pcreters:


I´ve made a tow-in mixer following regular instructions... The problem is in the differencial we choose. First time we use, water went into the space under the blade, the very end of the differencial. (not at the bottom of the recipient)

Water make it through to the gears.

The videos and explanatios I saw never talks about these... maybe some diferentials are different than others and don´t need any modification? but mine does. Solve the problem seems a lot of work and money, change the differential now that everything is welded is hard too. 

Any advices? thanks a lot

Sergio



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Posted by: sergio_cohen@yahoo.com



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[papercreters] Re: Papercrete and frost



Thanks Clyde, it can get very cold here, so I better wait until March. Maybe I build something small first to see what happens

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Posted by: gd@moworx.com



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[papercreters] Re: Papercrete and frost

Well , success in freezing is marginal.
I built my first dome freehand . Mortaring the bricks did ok, yet the plaster froze and delaminates. I had to replace all the plaster. Obviously if you covered the work with poly it would help greatly.

Sent from my iPad

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Posted by: clydetcurry@yahoo.com
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Friday, December 25, 2015

[papercreters] Papercrete and frost



Hello all,

I have prepared everything to build a papercrete dome and could start now. However, the weather forecast is for below freezing point in a few days.

Would fresh papercrete be damaged by frost?

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Posted by: gd@moworx.com



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Thursday, December 24, 2015

Re: [papercreters] Re: Termites in Papercrete



Any time and Happy Holidays!  Glad to be of service.

On 12/24/2015 5:26 AM, Murry Holley murry.holley@yahoo.com [papercreters] wrote:
 
Thanks Kim:)

I have not had  any problems like that. I think our clay is toward the alkaline side. I will get a tester.

Thanks so much for all your help!
Murry




From: "Kim gartht@windstream.net [papercreters]" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Re: Termites in Papercrete

 
If you clay is too acid, it will break the bonds of the portland which is alkaline.  A neutral or alkaline ph is best for your clay.  I can't use my clay, it is about a 4.5 and it breaks it.  It sets, then a week later it crumbles. 
Kim

On 12/23/2015 9:28 AM, Murry Holley murry.holley@yahoo.com [papercreters] wrote:
 
Hello Kim:)
You expressed some concern about the PH in the clay for my mix. What are the issues with PH ? What PH should I be looking for?

Thanks so much for the tip on the lime paint. Looks like great stuff!

Best wishes
Murry




From: "Kim gartht@windstream.net [papercreters]" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2015 1:35 PM
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Re: Termites in Papercrete

 
Has the stucco been painted?  It will not go over modern paint of any type.  It works on petrified hessian so I bet it will go on raw stucco.

On 12/21/2015 11:43 AM, Christine Baker christine@bayhouse.com [papercreters] wrote:
 
Does this paint work over stucco?   We never did a color coat and should do something sometimes soon as it's 9 years already.

Thanks, Christine

Monday, December 21, 2015, 9:06:09 AM, you wrote:


 
A very cheap, old fashioned cure is what I am using.  Buy Type S lime and slake it.  Let it sit for at least two week, and be careful, that is the lime that will burn.  Then mix 2.5 pounds of slaked lime, with 1/2 gallon of water and 1 pint of raw linseed oil, and paint it on.  It is recommended to use at least three or four coats, but not all the same day.  Give at least 3 days between coats for the lime to turn back to stone.  If you can't find raw, boiled linseed oil is okay too.  Whenever it starts looking a bit dingy, paint it again.  Slaked lime, as long as it has water over it will keep for years and just get better and better.  If you don't like white, any pigment designed to stand up to lime, can be used as color.  Which means all the pigments for concrete.  However, the color won't be the same as your base is white not gray.  We make all our own paint these days, with a huge savings for the pocket book.

On 12/21/2015 9:28 AM, Murry Holley
murry.holley@yahoo.com [papercreters] wrote:
 
Hello Kim:)
Thanks for your input.

The roof overhang is 30". I am coating the exterior with 2 coats of Thoroseal Cementious Masonry waterproofing.

I have been doing tests on my barn walls. There was no moisture  barrier at the base. I also started with very lean cement mixes and worked my way up to where I am now. I did not get any vegetation growing in the wall. But with some of the lean mixes I did get some mold growing. Wall has not been treated with ext. waterproofing yet.
Is there any additive I can add to the 1st couple of courses above the parge coat for a little extra protection form the termites.

Thanks and best wishes
Murry




From: "Kim gartht@windstream.net [papercreters]" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2015 5:59 AM
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Re: Termites in Papercrete

 
While I like clay rather than portland, you have to check the ph of your clay before using it.  Also, we have found in hot humid Texas, that any clay can start the wall growing.  We have weeds in Texas that will grow under the most severe conditions, so clay can be a real issue.  I quit doing fidobe as Mike McCain named it, for this reason.  Worked well in New Mexico, but not in my wet area.

Other than that, it looks good.  What are you finishing the outside of the wall with?  How much overhang does the roof give?  Horizontal rain is not common, but it does happen, the wall need to be protected against moisture on the outside.  And the inside should be a breathable finish so if moisture does get into the wall, it can dry out rather than rot.  With organic matter in the mix, this becomes even more important.  The clay could also be the reason for the termite problem, it would allow easy access.  

Kim



On 12/20/2015 8:49 PM, Murry Holley
murry.holley@yahoo.com [papercreters] wrote:
 
Greetings and thanks for all the comments.

The mix I have settled on is :

Pulped Paper 75% by vol and 22% by weight
Cement 6.9% by vol and 20.7% by weight
Sand 5.6% by vol and 17.1% by weight
Clay 12.5% by vol and 40.15 by weight

My test indicated pulped drained paper is about 1.2 lbs per gallon.
The above mix gives me a block with an average weight density of about 31 lbs per cf.

For our area we need an insulating exterior wall. That is why a dense wall like adobe with thermal lag is not suitable.  I think it is import to keep block density low to attain the reported R2 per inch value. I hope to be able to get some testing on compresive strength in the near future.

As far as boots I have a CMU stem wall 12" above finish grade. I am using a parge coat of asphalt and lime on top of the stem wall as a moisture break. No other termite barrier is planned. Does this sound like something that will work.

Clyde can you tell me what  the weight density and R value for the mix your suggest is? Do you have any data on comprehensive strength?

Thanks so much for everyone's comments.

Best wishes
Murry Holley




From: "Kim gartht@windstream.net [papercreters]" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2015 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Re: Termites in Papercrete

 
The original formula was 70% paper, 20% sand and 10% portland.  You are suggesting 66% portland to 33% paper.  Why?????   Testing on roof panels, for burn protection found that they go out and don't continue to burn at 50% paper, 50% portland.  

I too found that lime made papercrete weak.  Painting it with whitewash when done works well.  I would like to hear more about the formula that was used, what kind of boots the building has as well as if there are any termite guards in place.

On 12/18/2015 2:12 PM,
clydetcurry@yahoo.com [papercreters] wrote:
 
Lime in papercrete makes it hold too much water. You should have 2 lbs. of cement per pound of paper.

Sent from my iPad
--
PK

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--
PK

This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
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--
PK

This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
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This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
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--   PK
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
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--   PK
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--   PK
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Posted by: Kim <gartht@windstream.net>



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