Thursday, August 25, 2011

Re: [papercreters] Mixer Design



I am wondering about the same thing as far as I thought I saw a square plastic tank with the metal cage 275 gallon as a mixer.  This is by far  the cheapest tank that I can get around here. Michael

--- On Tue, 8/23/11, Doris Burton <yakishome@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Doris Burton <yakishome@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Mixer Design
To: "papercreters@yahoogroups.com" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 23, 2011, 9:34 PM



We mixed many batches and never seemed to have had any left in the cube, all paper mixed to an even consistency We did our entire project with it and never had any problems. Oh and it was not a small project.

Doris





From: Spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 5:13 PM
Subject: [papercreters] Mixer Design

 
I have been having an interesting discussion off list with Ken about mixer design.

I remember someone mentioning a while back that they intended to use a pickup bed as the tank for a mixer, and in our discussion the question of possible problems with paper collecting in the corners came up. Has anyone actually made a mixer with a pickup bed as the tank? If so, please enlighten us.

Also, Doris, your mixer is a cube. Any problems along those lines? Being cubical and smooth plastic I would think it might be better than a shallow bed, but I have been wrong many times in my life  : )
--  spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.  






__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Re: [papercreters] Mixer Design



Thanks, Doris. Your project was far from small, and turned out great!

spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.  

On 8/23/2011 8:34 PM, Doris Burton wrote:
We mixed many batches and never seemed to have had any left in the cube, all paper mixed to an even consistency We did our entire project with it and never had any problems. Oh and it was not a small project.

Doris





From: Spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 5:13 PM
Subject: [papercreters] Mixer Design

 
I have been having an interesting discussion off list with Ken about mixer design.

I remember someone mentioning a while back that they intended to use a pickup bed as the tank for a mixer, and in our discussion the question of possible problems with paper collecting in the corners came up. Has anyone actually made a mixer with a pickup bed as the tank? If so, please enlighten us.

Also, Doris, your mixer is a cube. Any problems along those lines? Being cubical and smooth plastic I would think it might be better than a shallow bed, but I have been wrong many times in my life  : )
--  spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.  



No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3853 - Release Date: 08/23/11



__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Re: [papercreters] Mixer Design



We mixed many batches and never seemed to have had any left in the cube, all paper mixed to an even consistency We did our entire project with it and never had any problems. Oh and it was not a small project.

Doris





From: Spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 5:13 PM
Subject: [papercreters] Mixer Design

 
I have been having an interesting discussion off list with Ken about mixer design.

I remember someone mentioning a while back that they intended to use a pickup bed as the tank for a mixer, and in our discussion the question of possible problems with paper collecting in the corners came up. Has anyone actually made a mixer with a pickup bed as the tank? If so, please enlighten us.

Also, Doris, your mixer is a cube. Any problems along those lines? Being cubical and smooth plastic I would think it might be better than a shallow bed, but I have been wrong many times in my life  : )
--  spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.  




__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

[papercreters] Mixer Design



I have been having an interesting discussion off list with Ken about mixer design.

I remember someone mentioning a while back that they intended to use a pickup bed as the tank for a mixer, and in our discussion the question of possible problems with paper collecting in the corners came up. Has anyone actually made a mixer with a pickup bed as the tank? If so, please enlighten us.

Also, Doris, your mixer is a cube. Any problems along those lines? Being cubical and smooth plastic I would think it might be better than a shallow bed, but I have been wrong many times in my life  : )

--  spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.  


__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

Sunday, August 21, 2011

[papercreters] Re: Good instructions for a NON-tow-behind mixer?

Sorry for any confusion, Michael. That was intended for Spaceman who I had read does make and sell tow-mixers occasionally.

He got back to me with a detailed estimate.

Best,
ken

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, michael joyce <mojojoyce@...> wrote:
>
> I do not know if this message was meant for me I am not making mixers for anybody else besides making a couple for myself.  I plan on one making one for 55 gal and one large non tow.  Michael
>
> --- On Sat, 8/20/11, ken winston caine <kwc@...> wrote:
>
> From: ken winston caine <kwc@...>
> Subject: [papercreters] Re: Good instructions for a NON-tow-behind mixer?
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Saturday, August 20, 2011, 4:27 PM
>
>
> Thank you.
>
> P.S. I privately emailed you about what you charge for making a 200-gallon tow-behind mixer. Did you get that?
>
> Best,
> ken
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com
papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Saturday, August 20, 2011

Re: [papercreters] Re: Good instructions for a NON-tow-behind mixer?



I do not know if this message was meant for me I am not making mixers for anybody else besides making a couple for myself.  I plan on one making one for 55 gal and one large non tow.  Michael

--- On Sat, 8/20/11, ken winston caine <kwc@mindbodyspiritjournal.com> wrote:

From: ken winston caine <kwc@mindbodyspiritjournal.com>
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Good instructions for a NON-tow-behind mixer?
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, August 20, 2011, 4:27 PM


Thank you.

P.S. I privately emailed you about what you charge for making a 200-gallon tow-behind mixer. Did you get that?

Best,
ken



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/

<*> Your email settings:
    Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join
    (Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
    papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com
    papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

Re: [papercreters] Re: Good instructions for a NON-tow-behind mixer?



Yes, I did, and answered you on the 18th at 3:14PM. Obviously you didn't get the reply!

Check your spam folder and meanwhile I'll resend that reply. OK, second copy is on the way.

spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.  

On 8/20/2011 3:27 PM, ken winston caine wrote:
 Thank you.  P.S. I privately emailed you about what you charge for making a 200-gallon tow-behind mixer. Did you get that?  Best, ken      


__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

[papercreters] Re: Good instructions for a NON-tow-behind mixer?

Thank you.

P.S. I privately emailed you about what you charge for making a 200-gallon tow-behind mixer. Did you get that?

Best,
ken

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com
papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Friday, August 19, 2011

Re: [papercreters] Good instructions for a NON-tow-behind mixer?



Here are photos of one I made about ten years ago. The big red warnings are there for legal purposes, I didn't want a lawsuit if someone cuts their leg off.
http://www.starship-enterprises.net/Papercrete/Barrel%20Mixer/Barrel%20Mixer.html

With the large blade I had trouble getting the engine to start, so I replaced the engine with a 1hp electric motor and cut the blade in half, crossed it and welded it, ending up with a 9" cross. I ground the blades to a curved leading edge, and welded on a couple of tabs on the trailing edge to cause more agitation. This was a big improvement, starts with the flip of a switch and the smaller blades don't require as much torque. None of this is shown on the web page, never got tuits to update it. Hey, it has only been ten years, I'll get a round tuit.

spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.   
On 8/15/2011 5:48 PM, ken winston caine wrote:
Can anyone point me to instructions for building a simple electric-motor or gas-motor driven papercrete mixer that would mount over 55 gallon drums and that could be moved from drum to drum?  And pointers about what to avoid if building such an animal?  I'm about to give up on making the tow-behind mixer happen right away. Maybe next spring.  Thanks, ken   


__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

Monday, August 15, 2011

[papercreters] Good instructions for a NON-tow-behind mixer?

Can anyone point me to instructions for building a simple electric-motor or gas-motor driven papercrete mixer that would mount over 55 gallon drums and that could be moved from drum to drum?

And pointers about what to avoid if building such an animal?

I'm about to give up on making the tow-behind mixer happen right away. Maybe next spring.

Thanks,
ken

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com
papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[papercreters] PAPERCRETE PROJECT!

Hello pals i am presently working on the topic:
'CHARACTERISTICS OF PAPERCRETE MADE WITH FINE AGGREGATE (SAND) AS A WALLING MATERIAL'
for my undergraduate project in the building department,unijos,nigeria
Akolo


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com
papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Saturday, August 13, 2011

Re: [papercreters] Eric B. Randall's PTO Mixer

same question but that i want to put the axle end into the mixer so that /i may raise my mixer off the ground more.  I wander if I can water proof the axle end sticking into the tub. Mine would be powered from the other vehicles rear end so It would be stationary mixer getting ready to start the build.  Thanks Michael

--- On Sat, 8/13/11, Grant Slayton <slaytonfarms@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Grant Slayton <slaytonfarms@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Eric B. Randall's PTO Mixer
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, August 13, 2011, 5:16 PM



Thank you for the insights. I will put in a tap on monday. great idea...
 
Rusty

On Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 4:17 PM, Eric Randall <eric@eric-randall.com> wrote:
 


Hi Rusty,

I machined a piece of Teflon to fit snugly on the shaft, then, as an extra precaution, on top of the tank I cut a hole in an old rubber tire tube and secured it to the tank with a metal gasket-type thing I found in the bearing section of Tractor Supply (see photo below).   I used countersunk screws to minimize protrusions that would catch paper pulp.  Underneath the nut I put a square piece of 1/4" plate that would allow me to screw my modified lawn mower blade to.

One thing I didn't do but might be nice to do before you mount your tank, is to drill and tap a hole in what will now be the top of your transfer case.  This will allow you to refill the lube, as the standard refill hole will be on the bottom of your transfer case after you mount it.

The real trick is in fine-tuning your cutting blade so it both cuts paper and sheds it, yet also angled so it can keep a tank full of paper pulp moving and getting pulled into the cutting blades path.

Best,

Eric B. Randall
Emacs!


At 09:48 PM 8/11/2011, you wrote:

 

Due to the overwhelming response to this post. I will attempt it in another version.

I am in the middle of making a OTO driven mixer similar to, if not a clone of Erik Brandalls. Has anyone some across issues that I need to address in the build portion of this particular project? More specifically to the seal between the tank and gear box? Though any suggestion or "don't repeat my mistake" type advice would be deeply appreciated.

On a side note I have put a four deep caliche filled tire foundation in so far. I was going to do a PC form on the first layer as my tire wall resemebles a camels back in places. Then PC block the rest. Using old oilfield pipe as a rafter system with Cotton-trailer walls as a primary roof form for a PC roof fill.

I have most of the materials on hand, with the afore mentioned foundation already back-breakingly done.. Just starting my PC portion.

Thanks in advance,
Rusty Slayton.

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Rusty S" <slaytonfarms@...> wrote:
>
> I was planning on making a PTO Mixer similar to the one you have pictured in the photos section. What type of gear box are you using here and how are you sealing it from water? I was going to make something similar but was affraid that the brushhog gear box I was going to use would fill with water as it is upside down.
>
> I look forward to hearing from you.
>
> Rusty Slayton
> slaytonfarms@...
>




Re: [papercreters] Eric B. Randall's PTO Mixer



Thank you for the insights. I will put in a tap on monday. great idea...
 
Rusty

On Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 4:17 PM, Eric Randall <eric@eric-randall.com> wrote:
 


Hi Rusty,

I machined a piece of Teflon to fit snugly on the shaft, then, as an extra precaution, on top of the tank I cut a hole in an old rubber tire tube and secured it to the tank with a metal gasket-type thing I found in the bearing section of Tractor Supply (see photo below).   I used countersunk screws to minimize protrusions that would catch paper pulp.  Underneath the nut I put a square piece of 1/4" plate that would allow me to screw my modified lawn mower blade to.

One thing I didn't do but might be nice to do before you mount your tank, is to drill and tap a hole in what will now be the top of your transfer case.  This will allow you to refill the lube, as the standard refill hole will be on the bottom of your transfer case after you mount it.

The real trick is in fine-tuning your cutting blade so it both cuts paper and sheds it, yet also angled so it can keep a tank full of paper pulp moving and getting pulled into the cutting blades path.

Best,

Eric B. Randall
Emacs!


At 09:48 PM 8/11/2011, you wrote:

 

Due to the overwhelming response to this post. I will attempt it in another version.

I am in the middle of making a OTO driven mixer similar to, if not a clone of Erik Brandalls. Has anyone some across issues that I need to address in the build portion of this particular project? More specifically to the seal between the tank and gear box? Though any suggestion or "don't repeat my mistake" type advice would be deeply appreciated.

On a side note I have put a four deep caliche filled tire foundation in so far. I was going to do a PC form on the first layer as my tire wall resemebles a camels back in places. Then PC block the rest. Using old oilfield pipe as a rafter system with Cotton-trailer walls as a primary roof form for a PC roof fill.

I have most of the materials on hand, with the afore mentioned foundation already back-breakingly done.. Just starting my PC portion.

Thanks in advance,
Rusty Slayton.

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Rusty S" <slaytonfarms@...> wrote:
>
> I was planning on making a PTO Mixer similar to the one you have pictured in the photos section. What type of gear box are you using here and how are you sealing it from water? I was going to make something similar but was affraid that the brushhog gear box I was going to use would fill with water as it is upside down.
>
> I look forward to hearing from you.
>
> Rusty Slayton
> slaytonfarms@...
>




__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

Friday, August 12, 2011

[papercreters] Eric B. Randall's PTO Mixer




Hi Rusty,

I machined a piece of Teflon to fit snugly on the shaft, then, as an extra precaution, on top of the tank I cut a hole in an old rubber tire tube and secured it to the tank with a metal gasket-type thing I found in the bearing section of Tractor Supply (see photo below).   I used countersunk screws to minimize protrusions that would catch paper pulp.  Underneath the nut I put a square piece of 1/4" plate that would allow me to screw my modified lawn mower blade to.

One thing I didn't do but might be nice to do before you mount your tank, is to drill and tap a hole in what will now be the top of your transfer case.  This will allow you to refill the lube, as the standard refill hole will be on the bottom of your transfer case after you mount it.

The real trick is in fine-tuning your cutting blade so it both cuts paper and sheds it, yet also angled so it can keep a tank full of paper pulp moving and getting pulled into the cutting blades path.

Best,

Eric B. Randall
Emacs!


At 09:48 PM 8/11/2011, you wrote:

 

Due to the overwhelming response to this post. I will attempt it in another version.

I am in the middle of making a OTO driven mixer similar to, if not a clone of Erik Brandalls. Has anyone some across issues that I need to address in the build portion of this particular project? More specifically to the seal between the tank and gear box? Though any suggestion or "don't repeat my mistake" type advice would be deeply appreciated.

On a side note I have put a four deep caliche filled tire foundation in so far. I was going to do a PC form on the first layer as my tire wall resemebles a camels back in places. Then PC block the rest. Using old oilfield pipe as a rafter system with Cotton-trailer walls as a primary roof form for a PC roof fill.

I have most of the materials on hand, with the afore mentioned foundation already back-breakingly done.. Just starting my PC portion.

Thanks in advance,
Rusty Slayton.

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Rusty S" <slaytonfarms@...> wrote:
>
> I was planning on making a PTO Mixer similar to the one you have pictured in the photos section. What type of gear box are you using here and how are you sealing it from water? I was going to make something similar but was affraid that the brushhog gear box I was going to use would fill with water as it is upside down.
>
> I look forward to hearing from you.
>
> Rusty Slayton
> slaytonfarms@...
>



__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

Re: [papercreters] Re: Erik Brandalls PTO Mixer



PTO

On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 9:48 PM, Rusty S <slaytonfarms@gmail.com> wrote:
 

Due to the overwhelming response to this post. I will attempt it in another version.

I am in the middle of making a OTO driven mixer similar to, if not a clone of Erik Brandalls. Has anyone some across issues that I need to address in the build portion of this particular project? More specifically to the seal between the tank and gear box? Though any suggestion or "don't repeat my mistake" type advice would be deeply appreciated.

On a side note I have put a four deep caliche filled tire foundation in so far. I was going to do a PC form on the first layer as my tire wall resemebles a camels back in places. Then PC block the rest. Using old oilfield pipe as a rafter system with Cotton-trailer walls as a primary roof form for a PC roof fill.

I have most of the materials on hand, with the afore mentioned foundation already back-breakingly done.. Just starting my PC portion.

Thanks in advance,
Rusty Slayton.



--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Rusty S" <slaytonfarms@...> wrote:
>
> I was planning on making a PTO Mixer similar to the one you have pictured in the photos section. What type of gear box are you using here and how are you sealing it from water? I was going to make something similar but was affraid that the brushhog gear box I was going to use would fill with water as it is upside down.
>
> I look forward to hearing from you.
>
> Rusty Slayton
> slaytonfarms@...
>




__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

Thursday, August 11, 2011

[papercreters] Re: Erik Brandalls PTO Mixer

Due to the overwhelming response to this post. I will attempt it in another version.

I am in the middle of making a OTO driven mixer similar to, if not a clone of Erik Brandalls. Has anyone some across issues that I need to address in the build portion of this particular project? More specifically to the seal between the tank and gear box? Though any suggestion or "don't repeat my mistake" type advice would be deeply appreciated.

On a side note I have put a four deep caliche filled tire foundation in so far. I was going to do a PC form on the first layer as my tire wall resemebles a camels back in places. Then PC block the rest. Using old oilfield pipe as a rafter system with Cotton-trailer walls as a primary roof form for a PC roof fill.

I have most of the materials on hand, with the afore mentioned foundation already back-breakingly done.. Just starting my PC portion.

Thanks in advance,
Rusty Slayton.

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Rusty S" <slaytonfarms@...> wrote:
>
> I was planning on making a PTO Mixer similar to the one you have pictured in the photos section. What type of gear box are you using here and how are you sealing it from water? I was going to make something similar but was affraid that the brushhog gear box I was going to use would fill with water as it is upside down.
>
> I look forward to hearing from you.
>
> Rusty Slayton
> slaytonfarms@...
>


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com
papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Monday, August 8, 2011

Re: [papercreters] Tow Mixer Construction



The main reason I want to build a tow mixer is because of the insulating qualities of papercrete.
I believe it was on Judith's page I saw a comment about the outside of the building was hot but the inside of the wall was cool.
 
I am considering building a cement block basement with a concrete roof.
Then I would seal the walls on both sides.
My idea is to pour 12 or 16 inch thick inner walls and ceiling as insulation.
Then I want to use it as an ice house.
I usually have four to six months of the year here that would be eager to freeze blocks of ice.
To protect the papercrete from melting ice there will be floor drains and the walls will be draped with heavy duty banner fabric.
The door will have a slab of papercrete on the inside of it
 
This ice room will accessed from a root cellar I am planning to build between my house basement and my well pit.
The root cellar will have two large rooms then the well pit then the ice room beyond.
 
Over my well pit is an A-Frame shed.
I am considering converting my well to a hand pump and building an old style windmill over the well pit to pump the well. A five hundred gallon insulated tank in the tower that is higher than the house would give us great pressure.
 
Picture a car rear axle like you would use for a tow mixer only mount it on a pole and leave it facing the right way.  Build the blades like an old farm windmill and mount them on one axle leaving the brake assembly whole.
Gut the axle on the other side and attach a tail that has a joint in it so you can turn the blades out of the wind.
 
Now on the yoke you bolt and weld a round plate that has a post on it off center.
The post is exactly half the distance off center as the needed stroke for your well pumping cylinder at the bottom of your well.
Attach your shaft that runs down to the pump to that post.
You need a swivel on that shaft.
 
Next to the diff. somewhere you can mount a handle that will be attached by a cable to the emergency brake on that one brake assembly that you left.
 
I need to get out back,,, I believe I have the rear axle from a small car.
I believe it would be an Opel axle.  That would be a great one to start with for this project.
 
All of this is because I believe things are about to get really expensive.
If I don't have to have solar power for water or refrigeration then that seems to be a good move.
 
Just a couple hours ago a friend was telling me about when he was a kid his uncle cut ice from a lake and just used sawdust to cover it on the barn floor and that pile of ice lasted all Summer.
 
I think my plan will work.
 
Alan in Michigan
 




 
 
Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe



__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

Re: [papercreters] Tow Mixer Construction



Yup I was just kicking a 50 gallon water heater out of my way yesterday.
I am sure there are a couple out back too.
Five plus tons at $245 a ton,,,,,,,
Not me,,, It would be worth more just to have the right piece available when I need it.
 
Alan

--- On Sun, 8/7/11, Spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net> wrote:

From: Spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net>
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Tow Mixer Construction
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, August 7, 2011, 11:03 PM



The issue with the yoke I had was that it only comes off with a special $20 socket, or some ingenuity with a huge crescent wrench and a pry bar. For one mixer I took an overhead photo of the differential and printed it out life sized, then used it as a template to make slots for the ribs on the differential. I didn't try welding a thin tank to it. Those fins add a lot of strength to the case, and when a blade hits a phone book there must be a whole lot of energy transferred to the metal. I think it is worthwhile to fit around them and add even more strength. In your case if you are able to weld a heavy tank to the differential then that might compensate for ground off fins.

Your five acres sounds like mine, piles of treasure. Another good source of sheet metal in a thin gauge is the cover of a 40 or 50 gallon water heater, and people will pay you to take them. Nice tanks there too. Once a plastic injection factory not too far away advertized on freecycle that they had five tons of metal for free. I made two trips with my 8x10 flatbed truck pulling a 16' dual axle trailer, and ended up with a large collection of pipe, conduit, unistrut, boilers, hydraulic motors, hoses, a great score that was much more than five tons.  It turned into a rolling compound chop saw and drill press stand, a large appliance cabinet and wall brace, a dome frame, stuff like that. Lots of projects have been done from just that pile.

spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.  
On 8/6/2011 9:16 AM, Alan wrote:
Thank you,
I didn't think about removing the yoke.
I have been a shade tree wrench monkey for most of my life and I remember removing a yoke like that before.
If it is a bugger to get off then I will just do the Bondo thing I guess.
 
OR,,, Take a one foot square piece of 1/4" plate steel, split it down the middle and make the cuts so the two pieces fit the diff. 
Then weld the two pieces back together, bolt them down and weld them to the tank.
What about removing some of those fins on the diff.?
I am thinking about getting the metal closer to the diff. and using JB-Weld instead of Bondo if my welding attempt fails.
 
I have five acres with stuff piled all over the property.
I do not scrap out random pieces of metal.
That old trailer frame has been laying out there 34 years.
 
For a fixed half of the cover I also have metal salvaged from scrap washing machines.
The old top load ones.
I use a saw-z-all to cut along the top on both sides and the front.
Then I do the bottom and on each side near the back I cut straight down.
That gives me a large U-shaped piece of metal.
I lay them down on a concrete surface and stand in the center and use a foot to push each side down to the floor.
Then I turn them over and again walk the bends.
When I get them close to flat I take a two pound hand sledge and flatten the corners until it is all one flat piece of metal. They store easy like that until I need them.
 
I probably will make the opening side of the lid from plywood.
 
Alan in Michigan
 





__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Re: [papercreters] Tow Mixer Construction



The issue with the yoke I had was that it only comes off with a special $20 socket, or some ingenuity with a huge crescent wrench and a pry bar. For one mixer I took an overhead photo of the differential and printed it out life sized, then used it as a template to make slots for the ribs on the differential. I didn't try welding a thin tank to it. Those fins add a lot of strength to the case, and when a blade hits a phone book there must be a whole lot of energy transferred to the metal. I think it is worthwhile to fit around them and add even more strength. In your case if you are able to weld a heavy tank to the differential then that might compensate for ground off fins.

Your five acres sounds like mine, piles of treasure. Another good source of sheet metal in a thin gauge is the cover of a 40 or 50 gallon water heater, and people will pay you to take them. Nice tanks there too. Once a plastic injection factory not too far away advertized on freecycle that they had five tons of metal for free. I made two trips with my 8x10 flatbed truck pulling a 16' dual axle trailer, and ended up with a large collection of pipe, conduit, unistrut, boilers, hydraulic motors, hoses, a great score that was much more than five tons.  It turned into a rolling compound chop saw and drill press stand, a large appliance cabinet and wall brace, a dome frame, stuff like that. Lots of projects have been done from just that pile.

spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.  
On 8/6/2011 9:16 AM, Alan wrote:
Thank you,
I didn't think about removing the yoke.
I have been a shade tree wrench monkey for most of my life and I remember removing a yoke like that before.
If it is a bugger to get off then I will just do the Bondo thing I guess.
 
OR,,, Take a one foot square piece of 1/4" plate steel, split it down the middle and make the cuts so the two pieces fit the diff. 
Then weld the two pieces back together, bolt them down and weld them to the tank.
What about removing some of those fins on the diff.?
I am thinking about getting the metal closer to the diff. and using JB-Weld instead of Bondo if my welding attempt fails.
 
I have five acres with stuff piled all over the property.
I do not scrap out random pieces of metal.
That old trailer frame has been laying out there 34 years.
 
For a fixed half of the cover I also have metal salvaged from scrap washing machines.
The old top load ones.
I use a saw-z-all to cut along the top on both sides and the front.
Then I do the bottom and on each side near the back I cut straight down.
That gives me a large U-shaped piece of metal.
I lay them down on a concrete surface and stand in the center and use a foot to push each side down to the floor.
Then I turn them over and again walk the bends.
When I get them close to flat I take a two pound hand sledge and flatten the corners until it is all one flat piece of metal. They store easy like that until I need them.
 
I probably will make the opening side of the lid from plywood.
 
Alan in Michigan
 



__._,_.___


Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

[papercreters] Re: Naive Question probably --- RE: Load-bearing walls

Then you're probably familiar with my road. My mailbox is in the cluster at Goldmine and Highway 14. My property is a couple miles out Rogersville Road.

Thanks for the invitation.

Best,
ken


--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@...> wrote:
>
>
> That's interesting - where you live. I lived on the Goldmine road for about 8 years. I miss it down there. If you ever want to take a drive up here let me know. And I'd be happy to help when you get going on your project.
>
>
>
> Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog
>
> More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith
>
>
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> From: kwc@...
> Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 04:51:06 +0000
> Subject: [papercreters] Re: Naive Question probably --- RE: Load-bearing walls
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Judith:
>
>
>
> Starting reading backwards through your blog and admiring photos.
>
>
>
> You're not too far from me. I'm between Cerrillos and Madrid and have a few times spent a week in June at Ghost Ranch with my regional Quaker Meeting.
>
>
>
> Got as far in your blog as to where you were talking to the Washington person and mentioned Nolan (Scheid, by the way). And then your server quit letting me see pages. So don't know if you used load-supporting walls or not.
>
>
>
> But do know your work is really beautiful. You're doing a nice job.
>
>
>
> And that photo of you in the mixer? Looks like you're driving some new secret weapon the Army dreamed up.
>
>
>
> Best,
>
> ken
>
>
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@> wrote:
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > My walls are a foot thick, slip formed with blocks embedded. There are pics on my blog.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog
>
> >
>
> > More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
>
> > From: kwc@
>
> > Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 20:52:30 +0000
>
> > Subject: [papercreters] Naive Question probably --- RE: Load-bearing walls
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Feel free to point me to previous posts, files, etc.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Is it possible to pour foot-thick load-bearing walls of papercrete - claycrete - fidobe type mixes?
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Thanks,
>
> >
>
> > ken
>
> >
>


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com
papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[papercreters] Re: Naive Question probably --- RE: Load-bearing walls

I am the Fraser valley, BC. Waarom? :-)

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Nick Boersema <picknick@...> wrote:
>
> Where in Canada are u?
>
>
>
> Nick
>
>
>
> From: papercreters@yahoogroups.com [mailto:papercreters@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Mack M
> Sent: August-06-11 12:38 PM
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [papercreters] Re: Naive Question probably --- RE: Load-bearing
> walls
>
>
>
>
>
> yeahyeahyeah LOL,
>
> I am in Canada right now, burning on the edge of my seat....
>
> So is anybody using PC for load bearing walls?? Anybody have experience with
> two story structures with pc?
>
> By the way, GREAT work, Judith, thank you for your blog, I just glanced
> through it but will make this my first step "manual".
>
> Have a great weekend everyone!
> Mack
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com <mailto:papercreters%40yahoogroups.com>
> , JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > That's interesting - where you live. I lived on the Goldmine road for
> about 8 years. I miss it down there. If you ever want to take a drive up
> here let me know. And I'd be happy to help when you get going on your
> project.
> >
> >
> >
> > Follow progress on the new project at
> http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog
> >
> > More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith
> >
> >
> > To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com <mailto:papercreters%40yahoogroups.com>
> > From: kwc@
> > Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 04:51:06 +0000
> > Subject: [papercreters] Re: Naive Question probably --- RE: Load-bearing
> walls
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Judith:
> >
> >
> >
> > Starting reading backwards through your blog and admiring photos.
> >
> >
> >
> > You're not too far from me. I'm between Cerrillos and Madrid and have a
> few times spent a week in June at Ghost Ranch with my regional Quaker
> Meeting.
> >
> >
> >
> > Got as far in your blog as to where you were talking to the Washington
> person and mentioned Nolan (Scheid, by the way). And then your server quit
> letting me see pages. So don't know if you used load-supporting walls or
> not.
> >
> >
> >
> > But do know your work is really beautiful. You're doing a nice job.
> >
> >
> >
> > And that photo of you in the mixer? Looks like you're driving some new
> secret weapon the Army dreamed up.
> >
> >
> >
> > Best,
> >
> > ken
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:papercreters%40yahoogroups.com> , JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@>
> wrote:
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > My walls are a foot thick, slip formed with blocks embedded. There are
> pics on my blog.
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > Follow progress on the new project at
> http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog
> >
> > >
> >
> > > More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com <mailto:papercreters%40yahoogroups.com>
>
> >
> > > From: kwc@
> >
> > > Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 20:52:30 +0000
> >
> > > Subject: [papercreters] Naive Question probably --- RE: Load-bearing
> walls
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > Feel free to point me to previous posts, files, etc.
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > Is it possible to pour foot-thick load-bearing walls of papercrete -
> claycrete - fidobe type mixes?
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > Thanks,
> >
> > >
> >
> > > ken
> >
> > >
> >
>


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com
papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/