Purists are those that dont entertain more than one point of view- For
instance if we were talking paper adobe then lime would be indicated
to help aggregate the clay - aggregate can have multiple meanings as
in I just used it in another- typically I mean something for the
cement to make a cement paste with - my sampl that Barry fuller tested
was one -third sand and yet it had the highest r- value (because the
sand grains still were not close enough to conduct through each other
, still it really was because I had fully expanded the paper-
papercrete generally will not need any extra foundation or footer due
to the fact that most walls are 10 inches or more and the material is
so lightweight that it does not need more surface to distribute the
load- what do you think concrete wont wick moisture ( it is the worst)
put down some polysheild if you are in wet country ,still mostly run
the water away- when you use pozzalan with the portland there really
is not much that can happen even if it stays damp - Yes I would like
some perlight E-mail at info@evesgarden.org Clyde- In
papercreters@yahoogroups.com, sire@... wrote:
>
> Judith,
>
> Generally from past messages latex paint has far more effectiveness
if it is painted on or otherwise present in the outermost layer.
>
> The post you are commenting on needs some clarification.
Papercrete requires no foundation? That is a brand new assertion.
Overhang and drainage does not always keep water away from the wall base.
>
> The insulative value is improved with aggregate? Not if it is
rocks, which aggregate usually means. There is a world of difference
between perlite and rocks. Incidentally I can get a truckload of
perlite shipped to anyone from Arizona if they would pay shipping.
>
> "Purists insist lime is better"? Better than what? Are purists
those people who study materials that have been used effectively for
thousands of years but have gone out of fashion, and then point out
that there are good reasons for them to be used again?
>
> Neal
>
>
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@...>
> If I want to use papercrete blocks as your stemwall and you want
them to be water resistant you say to use latex paint. It just so
happens I was given many gallons of latex paint. Do you mean to add
the paint to the mix (in what ratio?) or to paint the blocks. I was
thinking of adding it and also painting the wall after it's set. Am I
nuts or what? Also I agree with you about the aggregate. I've been
using pumice fines and feel they are a great improvement over sand. I
understnd there is also a perlite plant not far from here. I'd love to
try that too. It's the light weight and insulative value that are my
favorite things about papercrete. Once you have your mixing method and
equipment, working with papercrete is a whole lot of fun.
>
> Sincerely, Judith
> Visit my papercrete website at www.judith-l-williams.com.
>
> "Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the
Ark. Professionals, on the other hand, built the Titanic." Author unknown.
>
>
>
>
>
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> From: clyde@...
> Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 14:00:19 +0000
> Subject: [papercreters] Water Resistance
>
>
> This is a subject that comes up regularly - Maybe this will help -
> where the paper in papercrete does take on moisture, it also gives it
> up very fast . The culprit for holding on to that water is the excess
> lime (calcium carbonate) left from incomplete crystalisation of the
> Portland Cement. Later the lime will unite with water and carbon
> dioxide, from the atmosphere and cause efflorescence on the surface of
> the papercrete. This can be ameliorated by combining Pozzalon in your
> mix , making the papercrete give up the water easier, when it does get
> wet. Concrete stem walls defeat the advantage of insulating all the
> way to the ground. In fact papercrete generally requires no foundation
> at all, as it is monolithic and self supporting. Most important is to
> keep water away to start with (wide overhangs, drainage away from the
> base and in my case LATEX (( MEANING ACRYLIC PAINT)) Once I began
> using pozzalon I could no longer use Drylock masonry sealer, it reacts
> with lime and the pozzalon had already used it all up.
> There is another problem worth mention here- that of TOO MUCH WATER TO
> START WITH- Regardless of your brick mix, all bricks should be dry
> before they are used - Mixes can be enhanced radically with the
> addition of aggregate (without loss of insulation value,as proved by
> Barry Fullers tests of my brick) I am an old fart and sand got heavy
> so I switched to lightweight aggregate (Perlite), which is hollow and
> insulating also. I shipped the perlite 600 miles with less footprint
> than moving sand- P.S.- Do not be misled by purists insisting that
> lime is better - not in this case -Clyde - www.evesgarden.org
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser! Learn more.
>
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