---I hope folks will banter this one around for a while - My ratio of
cement paste to paper is on the order of 3 lbs of cement / 1 lb of
paper - the correct discriptors in the masonry industry would be 3
sacks per yard- 2 are portland and 1 is metakaolin pozzalon - to this
I add 4 times that volumetric amount in perlite (making 15 sacks per
yard of cement paste) the minimum Ive seen pass a burn test was 3.5
sacks per yard - bare papercrete (paper & portland)holds too much
water- the pozzalon reacts the excess calcium carbonate
(lime)liberated in the all to chaotic portland and it no longer holds
water - the perlite extends the cement paste, which wraps around the
paper (strength and fire resistance), saving on Portland (CO2
evolution and cost). We add additional perlite (filler) to stabilize
for shrinkage - I'm hoping you will respect the 750 tests I have made
and morph to these understandings - I personally warrentee that I have
obtained exceptional performance this way - I am very concerned that
the old timers will resist these notions- still I am convinced that a
1/1 mixture is insendiary - lets not kill people - do more homework-
Best Wishes Clyde T. Curry www.evesgarden.orgIn
papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Janoahsh" <janoahsh@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Curtis,
>
> I'm new to PC, but not to construction. Thank you very much for your
> informed comments.
>
> The pressure washer idea intrigues me. I have a 500 gal. Oil Tank
that I no
> longer need and am thinking of turning it into a mixer and rather
than go to
> the added fabrication needed to drive blades, your pressure washer
sounds a
> likely alternative.
>
> Do you have any comparison information on using clay alone or clay and
> cement as opposed to cement alone for fire resistance? I am under the
> impression that clay has better resistance to heat than cement.
>
> One problem I can see, using this technique, is that much of the
cement is
> carried off with the excess water. I realize the water can be
reused but it
> seems the original batch will be missing cement. Adding a
mechanical mixer
> and cement after excess water is removed might help with this.
>
> I'm thinking I can use a smaller mixer in the large tank to mix
additives
> after pulping with rotary pressure washer and draining excess water..
>
> Any additional thoughts appreciated.
>
> One issue with how much water to add depends on what means you are
using to
> pulp the paper. When using a tow mixer in Arizona, the ammount of water
> would be somewhat different than mixing a batch in Georgia or
Florida. What
> would remain the same is the ratio between paper and cement: 1-1 by
weight.
> When mixing a small batch in a 5 gallon bucket you would use less
water than
> a 200 gallon batch. But the ratio of paper to cement would remain the
> same:1-1 by weight. When using my pressure washer to mix a 40 gallon
batch I
> add a 2.5 gallon bucket of cement to 25 pounds of paper. And no I do not
> weigh every batch because that would be anal. My measure is a stick
approx
> 10 inches high. Tha is roughly 15 pounds of paper. the 2.5 gallons
of cement
> weighs roughly 15 pounds. I add half the cement and some paper and
turn on
> the pressure washer. As the paper is shreaded by the pressure washer and
> rotary nozzle it mixes the cement with the paper. Be careful at
first or it
> makes can make a dust storm if you hit the dry cement. About halfway
> throught the process, I add the remaining the cement and paper and
continue
> to pulp the paper with the rotary nozzle. I dont know how much water
I use
> or really care. When it gets to the right consistancy, I stop. If
the paper
> is pre soaked, it goes faster than if the paper is dry. BUt the water is
> only a medium to get the fibers all jumbeled together and the cement
is a
> binder for the matrix. Cement is NOT required to make the material
work. You
> can make blocks with just pulped paper. You can use clay, soil or
what have
> you as a binder. The cement adds fire resistance to the material and the
> more cement you use the less flamable the material becomes. Not I
said fire
> resistance and not fire proofing. You cant make wood fire proof and
PC is a
> wood product. Think of the paper and binder (cement clay, etc.) as the
> material and water as the carrier for the composite
>
>
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> 9:22 AM
>
>
>
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