Re: [papercreters] Tilt up -was- Re: New Member

I know some of the other guys and gals will be putting their input in here but here's my take.

Ok for #1 I have yet make a batch of mix using saw dust from fine milled to chips that I liked. It just will not set the same way as paper only will and it could be the mix as a whole that I am making that is causing that. The only thing I can add is (test test test) see what works for you. Since I do not have a ready supply of chips it never became something I pushed to make work. I have used the mix recipe at hand for about 2 years mine works for (me) that is not to say it is the best. The best batch/recipe/formula is the one that works for you in what you are doing with it and where.

As for #2 plaster (must be able to vent) it should never wick water in if you can help it. I do not think you can get a good cement or lime coverage needed on wood chips/dust to stop that from happening. The fiberglass thats added in concrete for strength will not have the wicking effect that wood could have.

Off my stump lol

Ken

Ernie Phelps <eepjr24@gmail.com> wrote:

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "unofornaio"
wrote:
> 1. I realize the whole "formula" or recipe thing is far from
> standardized and I understand this is because people generally use
> what is available to them in their area or is determined by their
> weather conditions. My question is will using fine wood chips,
> average size 1/4-1/2" x the thickness of a flat toothpick (imagine
> a splinter that size, this is what they look like) be feasible for
> this application? The reason I ask is I have an unlimited source
> for this wood.

Having an unlimited source would be a powerful motivator for me to
at least give it a shot. My personal opinion would be that a 1-1-1
mix of paper, splinters and Portland with enough boron solution to
deter carpenter ants and mold should be a VERY strong mix indeed.

My problem with the wood splinters alone is my completely
unsubstantiated suspicion that a good percentage of the strength of
papercrete comes from the particulate bond between paper and
portland and that the splinters would be too large to support that
bond by themselves. YMMV.

> 2. Having asked the above question brings me to this. After
> reading many articles on waterproofing I realize this is open for
> massive variation as well. These walls will be on average 2-3"
> above grade when resting on the footings. I'm in central CA near
> Bakersfield and we get rain a few months out of the winter but its
> sporadic at best. Most of the info I have read on water issue was
> in the context of using paper as the aggregate, not wood. I'm
> wondering, in general are the end products of both methods the
> same, in terms of reaction to moisture? As far as strength I would
> think using just the wood I have in mind or this mixed in with
> paper would act like the reinforcement needles we put in regular
> concrete.

If this is an outdoor wall, why worry about moisture at all? My PC
has constant ground contact with alot more rain than you get
(Central Florida) and seems fine. I would worry alot more about
pests and mold, and thus I mentioned the boron solution above.

- Ernie




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