Thanks for all the replies. Ideally I would like to just place forms
on either side of the chain link and pour it like that. As to the
tilt up issue, when making tilt up wall panels for sound barrier
fencing the walls are poured on a giant table, vibrated and stood up
with in hours.
(if you live in CA you see them a lot along the freeways) These
tables tilt and the walls are slid off onto a metal frame where they
rest
until they go out in the field just days later.
From what I gather from you post is that without some sort of support
during the tilt up process the panels are likely to buckle, is this
correct?
To add more detail to my original post these walls would be approx 6'-
7' high. I would like to do them in sections of 10'X the 6 or 7'at a
time but I guess they don't necessarily have to be done all in one
pour.
I think pouring them around the chain link would work excellent. I
saw a video of a guy on you-tube (I think he's a member here)that
made panels of 4x8 and I think he said they weighed about 150lbs.
Even at double that my existing footings will be sufficient. The
question is can this stuff be poured vertically? or does it not
matter?
J.P.
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "slurryguy" <slurryguy@...>
wrote:
>
> Welcome to the group Unofornaio.
>
> Your proposal certainly seem feasable. There are several factors
> that will be critical to make it work effectively.
>
> For tilt up construction to work the panels must have sufficient
> tensile and shear strength to survive the tilt up process.
> Papercrete is strongest in compression. The most direct approach
is
> to use a papercrete mix that has sufficient cement and other
mineral
> content to take the stress. This will result in heavier panels,
> which will add to the tilt up stresses.
>
> Another alternative is to add some kind of reinforcement to help
keep
> the panel together. The difficulty with this approach is that
> papercrete tends to shrink away from things like rebar as it dries.
>
> If the planned panels are to be of significant size, they can very
> easily become too large to tilt up by hand, even with a fairly
> lightweight mix. Consider these factors in your design. Do you
have
> equipment that can assist and speed the process? Will you be able
to
> precisely control your panels to place them accurately?
>
> I encourage you to experiment. Be certain your design will work
well
> before you invest significant time and money.
>
> Several members of the group have contemplated tilt up. At least
one
> has done it successfully. I'm sure you'll have many following your
> progress closely. Please take lots of pictures and be sure to post
> about experiments that didn't work as well as you hoped as well as
> your successes. That is how we all learn.
>
> Have fun.
>
>
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "unofornaio" <unofornaio@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I have been intrigued by papercrete for about 2 years now. I
first
> > discovered it when looking for an alternative to standard masonry
> for
> > some walls at mu home. I'm a mason by trade but really like the
> light
> > weight and form possibilities of the papercrete. Oh and the money
> > savings as well as what a great use for waste paper..
> >
> > Right now I am looking at going ahead with really researching how
> to
> > build these walls. I have a half ace lot that has a really nice
12-
> 13"
> > deep x 8" footing all the way down both sides that has chain link
> and
> > 2" steel poles about every 10'. I was thinking of forming
> > papercrete "tilt up" walls or placing forms on either sides of
the
> > existing fencing and pouring them sections at a time.
> >
> > I'm gonna search the posts and see what I can find, in the mean
> time.
> > I would appreciate any comments on this idea.
> > Thanks.
> >
>
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