Monday, June 30, 2008

RE: [papercreters] Re: Restoration of old house

I'll tell you my formula for papercrete. I have a 200 gallon tow mixer so the amounts are figured on that volume. I put the hose in the tank and start filling it. Meanwhile I put 1/2 bag of portland cement on the top of the mixer and sift it in as the water goes in. That way the cement is really dissolved in the water. Then I start adding the newspaper. I have no scale to weigh it so I use a stack 24" high (measured against a line on the side of the tank). There is no need to shred the paper. Just separate the pages, or at least the sections and throw them in. Keep hitting them with water so they mulch up. After the paper is in I add 2 five gallon buckets of ground pumice. If you don't have access to pumice you can use sand or get creative with other things (suggestions anyone?) I have saved all the info from this site on use of borax and such things but haven't really studied them yet. Hope this helps. Oh and I like Slurryguy's answer and encouragement to use papercrete for insulation. I made a batch of papercrete on what I'll call an inauspicious day (a bad to worse situation). I completely forgot to add the cement. The blocks were so lightweight and pretty. When it comes time for me to do a ceiling I'm going to use something like that but with the fire retardant in it.

Sincerely, Judith
Visit my papercrete website at www.judith-l-williams.com.

"Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark. Professionals, on the other hand, built the Titanic." Author unknown.



To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: halschmi@swbell.net
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 17:15:16 -0500
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Re: Restoration of old house

Slurryguy,

Thanks for the ideas, I finished gutting the room today and my plan is
to drill holes in cement berm that goes around the edge of the house and
try to pull it in with a pair of 2000lb comealongs attached to peaces of
rebar in holes drilled in the slab to pull it in. I do not know if
will work. This is like R&D for me. You are right about the gutters and
French drain. there are no gutters and the house has been that way for
a about 100 years.

I know nothing about mixing papercrete, where do I find a formula? Can
I use a cement mixer? Do I need a shredder? Tell me where I can read
about it.

Thanks

Hal

slurryguy wrote:
> Thanks for posting the pictures.
>
> That looks like a good project. It should make a very nice shop.
>
>
> Clearly you know what you are doing. Correcting the foundation
> issues makes sense to me. The foundation problems are likely to be a
> contributing factor if not the primary cause of the walls leaning.
>
> You probably already know this, but poor water drainage around the
> foundation is one of the biggest causes of foundation problems.
> Making sure the gutters are working properly and the downspouts are
> directing water away is important to preventing the problem from
> reoccuring. Adding an appropriate french drain would make sense
> also. Since you are already digging things up, it shouldn't be
> difficult or add very much cost.
>
> Putting in a papercrete insulation layer on the interior of the walls
> and the attic floor should be straight forward. Since the papercrete
> won't be carrying any loads, the strength of the mix won't be an
> issue. I would suggest a lean papercrete mix. If you use Borax in
> the mix and the minimum amount of cement and/or clay to assure that
> the papercrete won't burn or smolder when it's dry, you've got it.
>
> You might even be able to utilize some of your demolition waste. The
> drywall/plaster that you rip out, if you are certain that there is no
> asbestos in it, could be ground up in a papercrete mixer and mixed
> into the papercrete. It would reduce the need to use as much cement,
> and avoid the need to dispose of as much.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




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Re: [papercreters] Re: Restoration of old house

Slurryguy,

Thanks for the ideas, I finished gutting the room today and my plan is
to drill holes in cement berm that goes around the edge of the house and
try to pull it in with a pair of 2000lb comealongs attached to peaces of
rebar in holes drilled in the slab to pull it in. I do not know if
will work. This is like R&D for me. You are right about the gutters and
French drain. there are no gutters and the house has been that way for
a about 100 years.

I know nothing about mixing papercrete, where do I find a formula? Can
I use a cement mixer? Do I need a shredder? Tell me where I can read
about it.

Thanks

Hal

slurryguy wrote:
> Thanks for posting the pictures.
>
> That looks like a good project. It should make a very nice shop.
>
>
> Clearly you know what you are doing. Correcting the foundation
> issues makes sense to me. The foundation problems are likely to be a
> contributing factor if not the primary cause of the walls leaning.
>
> You probably already know this, but poor water drainage around the
> foundation is one of the biggest causes of foundation problems.
> Making sure the gutters are working properly and the downspouts are
> directing water away is important to preventing the problem from
> reoccuring. Adding an appropriate french drain would make sense
> also. Since you are already digging things up, it shouldn't be
> difficult or add very much cost.
>
> Putting in a papercrete insulation layer on the interior of the walls
> and the attic floor should be straight forward. Since the papercrete
> won't be carrying any loads, the strength of the mix won't be an
> issue. I would suggest a lean papercrete mix. If you use Borax in
> the mix and the minimum amount of cement and/or clay to assure that
> the papercrete won't burn or smolder when it's dry, you've got it.
>
> You might even be able to utilize some of your demolition waste. The
> drywall/plaster that you rip out, if you are certain that there is no
> asbestos in it, could be ground up in a papercrete mixer and mixed
> into the papercrete. It would reduce the need to use as much cement,
> and avoid the need to dispose of as much.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>


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[papercreters] restore old house- Judith movin' on

Wow Hal.. seeing the demo photos reminds me, too much, of how much
work it really is to buy AND fix a fixer-upper!! Please take your
vitamins and wear gloves & mask and "have at it" while you are all
raring to go.

The one thing I was told was not to do anything major the first year..
not really true in your case as so much to be worked on that will
improve it- like the tear out of bad floors etc. But design wise DO
keep bouncing ideas cause there is always a better or easier or
smarter way to do something. I wish I had not torn out the 1940's
wall heater in the bathroom-- it gets cold here! and it had a function
that I did not pay attention to.

good luck on it
--

and Judith-- maybe you cantake a few symbolic blocks of papercrete as
the "cornerstone"to a new place..or even the floor of your temporary
yurt?? hey why not make an igloo ( or beehive) of those crete
blocks and use them that way as a nice insulated hut?

the next person may want the already made structure, you can never tell.

But I bet when you get to the new place you wil ljust "throw a hose on
the ground" and get started there too!! I stillwant to come see &
work with you, keep us posted.


Ms. Charmaine Taylor/ Taylor Publishing
Toll Free Order: 1-888-441-1632
www.dirtcheapbuilder.com

www. papercrete.com
PO Box 375, Cutten CA 95534

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Re: [papercreters]

The blocks normally come down easy. You can probably demo the house in a day or two and take the blocks with you. I took down some block walls this spring and traded them for a gold cart and 3 tons of high quality clay.

On Jun 30, 2008, at 9:39 AM, JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@hotmail.com> wrote:

I have listed my property for sale and am thinking of taking down much of the papercrete house I have built and reusing the blocks in my new location. Has anyone done this and is it advisable? I would also leave it up if the buyer would like to continue the project. I'm open for suggestions. It's sad to give up on a dream but my kids have bought land in Santa Fe and want me with them so I'm planning on going there, maybe live in a yurt until I can get a real (papercrete) house up. The dream is just moving from one location to another and will mean I can be with family, so it's a great improvement. Thanks







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[papercreters]

I have listed my property for sale and am thinking of taking down much of the papercrete house I have built and reusing the blocks in my new location. Has anyone done this and is it advisable? I would also leave it up if the buyer would like to continue the project. I'm open for suggestions. It's sad to give up on a dream but my kids have bought land in Santa Fe and want me with them so I'm planning on going there, maybe live in a yurt until I can get a real (papercrete) house up. The dream is just moving from one location to another and will mean I can be with family, so it's a great improvement. Thanks







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[papercreters] Re: Restoration of old house

Thanks for posting the pictures.

That looks like a good project. It should make a very nice shop.


Clearly you know what you are doing. Correcting the foundation
issues makes sense to me. The foundation problems are likely to be a
contributing factor if not the primary cause of the walls leaning.

You probably already know this, but poor water drainage around the
foundation is one of the biggest causes of foundation problems.
Making sure the gutters are working properly and the downspouts are
directing water away is important to preventing the problem from
reoccuring. Adding an appropriate french drain would make sense
also. Since you are already digging things up, it shouldn't be
difficult or add very much cost.

Putting in a papercrete insulation layer on the interior of the walls
and the attic floor should be straight forward. Since the papercrete
won't be carrying any loads, the strength of the mix won't be an
issue. I would suggest a lean papercrete mix. If you use Borax in
the mix and the minimum amount of cement and/or clay to assure that
the papercrete won't burn or smolder when it's dry, you've got it.

You might even be able to utilize some of your demolition waste. The
drywall/plaster that you rip out, if you are certain that there is no
asbestos in it, could be ground up in a papercrete mixer and mixed
into the papercrete. It would reduce the need to use as much cement,
and avoid the need to dispose of as much.

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Sunday, June 29, 2008

[papercreters] Restoration of old house

slurryguy and others

I will post some pictures on flickr and provide a link in the links section, I find this faster and with better resolution.  I worked on it all day yesterday and the next step has to be foundation repair. We ripped out 6 layers of floor and found a cracked concrete slap and the footings are very shallow.  I have a plan that may work.  I will have to jack up the walls and pull the footing inward and then poor second footing on the outside.  The plan is to use it as workshop and for storage, so we are gutting it.  I will then pour a new floor reinforced with rebar and tied to the old floor by drilling into it and pounding rebar into it. 

Here is the link to the photos:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/halschmidt/sets/72157605880299140/
I tried to add to the links section but cannot,  apparently this privilege has been disallowed.
Hal


slurryguy wrote: Hello Harold,

Welcome to the group.

Congratulations on your property purchase.

I do not know of anyone that has done exactly what you are
describing, but there have been several instances of people
insulating an existing structure with papercrete. That can work very
well.

Pictures of the existing structure would be very helpful in
stimulating this group with ideas about your project.

I would guess that the closest anyone has come to your project is
Robert Merrill's Retrofit project. See his photo album for details
and search the old messages. Robert has discussed it previously.
I'm sure he'd be happy to answer any questions also.

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[papercreters] Re: having a research study on PAPERCRETE

This sounds very promising Jen. I wish you every success in your
efforts.

I will happily share any information I have to assist you in your
efforts.

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "jenabenojar" <jenabenojar@...>
wrote:
>
> > 5. What school are you attending? Can you describe your
> philosphical
> > personal goals for project? Will you be sharing your data and
> > documentation freely? Will your testing have any
certifications?
> > Are you attempting to assist the average person that would like
to
> > use this material, but needs to show official documentation
before
> > they can get governamental approval? Are you attempting to help
a
> > commercial entity bring a new product to market?
>
>
>
>
> I'm a 5th year student of Technological Institute of the
Philippines
> in Quezon City taking up B.S. Civil Engineering.
>
> I'm interested in building my home made out of PC
> and if this could be possible in my country.
>
> I'm not attempting to assist anybody or being involve to any
> commercial entity.
>
> I'm a full time student.
>
> Yes, I'd be sharing every detail of my research work.
>
> To this research I also make my consultations with my father
> since he is a structural engineer
>
> Tests will be done in my school laboratory
> UTM is the only equipment availabe
> for some other tests, we'll be performing it
> in the government lab or other university lab
> my experiments will start by tuesday
>
>
>
> NOTE:
> I certainly expect any forms of error in the process of my research
> since I'm still a student and a novice that would likely need
> to learn more and more (a thousand times more)
> but for my later profession
> I will give my best for this study
> so as not to put all the work to waste
> and I hope that results and information will be helpful for
everybody
>
>
>
> title of the research:
> PAPERCRETE AS A POTENTIAL RESIDENTIAL CONSTRUCTION MATERIAL
>
> the study would most probably concerned or be limited to the
> material itself for residential construction
> and length of time for this research is also limited
>
>
>
> thank you very much for the helpful comments
>

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[papercreters] Re: PowerPozz

Thanks for the info, Nori.

I'm guessing that the most economical method of acquiring a small
quantity (like 1-10 pounds) is to just post a request directly here
on Papercreters.

I'm very confident that we have a few members that have used it in
the past and a few are probably still using it. If you smile really
nice, offer to mail someone a check to cover their costs, including
the Postage or shipping, you could probably talk someone into helping
you out.

My assumption for this technique is that the individual would be
looking for a small quantity for a couple of experiments. It would
be a one time transaction. If someone decides they will use larger
quantities or needs a steady supply, they'd certainly want to buy
directly from a vendor as Nori so nicely stated.


Something puzzles me though.

Which one of these characters is named Pozz?
http://www.fadtoys.com/UserFiles/Image/Powerpuff_Girls.jpg

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "ElfNori" <elf@...> wrote:
>
> I had a brief chat with Ken McPhalen of PowerPozz. It turns out
the company is in my state, though production isn't.
>
> For anyone interested in trying PowerPozz, here's what he had to
say.
>
> "The minimum quantity we sell is a 1/2 pallet (24x40lb bags). This
would come from our plant in Aiken, SC. The base price is $500.00 per
ton plus a $36.00 per ton Energy Surcharge plus whatever the freight
cost would be (I would guess about $300.00). The other alternative is
to purchase by the bag through www.concretedepot.com. They buy our
material by the pallet and re-sell by the bag. Certainly more
expensive, but if you don't need large quantities it is a good way to
go."
>
> For the math challenged, that's 960 pounds at $240.98 plus $17.28
energy surcharge plus shipping. That's $558.26 (remember, shipping
is estimated to Washington State) which breaks out to ~$23.26 a bag.
>
> Please feel free to check my math. I didn't, I just ran the number
with no checking.
>
> The Concrete Depot link above brings up a test page with a simple
counter. I was on the site yesterday, so I know you can get
there . . . try this link.
>
> http://concretedepot.net/catalog/p6558/PowerPozz-(TM)-High-
Reactivity-Metakaolin-(4-lbs)/product_info.html
>
> Concrete Depot has a 14 lb bucket ($14.08), 40 lb bags ($54.25) and
2000 lb super sacks (no price given). Ken didn't mention super sacks
as I was only interested in a small quantity. If one of you is
interested in a super sack, please contact Ken directly. KenMc@...
>
> Hope this all helps.
>
> ElfN
>

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[papercreters] PowerPozz

I had a brief chat with Ken McPhalen of PowerPozz.  It turns out the company is in my state, though production isn't.
 
For anyone interested in trying PowerPozz, here's what he had to say.
 
"The minimum quantity we sell is a 1/2 pallet (24x40lb bags). This would come from our plant in Aiken, SC. The base price is $500.00 per ton plus a $36.00 per ton Energy Surcharge plus whatever the freight cost would be (I would guess about $300.00). The other alternative is to purchase by the bag through www.concretedepot.com. They buy our material by the pallet and re-sell by the bag. Certainly more expensive, but if you don't need large quantities it is a good way to go."
 
For the math challenged, that's 960 pounds at $240.98 plus $17.28 energy surcharge plus shipping.  That's $558.26 (remember, shipping is estimated to Washington State) which breaks out to ~$23.26 a bag.
 
Please feel free to check my math.  I didn't, I just ran the number with no checking.
 
The Concrete Depot link above brings up a test page with a simple counter.  I was on the site yesterday, so I know you can get there . . . try this link.
 
 
Concrete Depot has a 14 lb bucket ($14.08), 40 lb bags ($54.25) and 2000 lb super sacks (no price given).  Ken didn't mention super sacks as I was only interested in a small quantity.  If one of you is interested in a super sack, please contact Ken directly. KenMc@metakaolin.com
 
Hope this all helps.
 
ElfN
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[papercreters] Re: having a research study on PAPERCRETE

> 5. What school are you attending? Can you describe your
philosphical
> personal goals for project? Will you be sharing your data and
> documentation freely? Will your testing have any certifications?
> Are you attempting to assist the average person that would like to
> use this material, but needs to show official documentation before
> they can get governamental approval? Are you attempting to help a
> commercial entity bring a new product to market?


I'm a 5th year student of Technological Institute of the Philippines
in Quezon City taking up B.S. Civil Engineering.

I'm interested in building my home made out of PC
and if this could be possible in my country.

I'm not attempting to assist anybody or being involve to any
commercial entity.

I'm a full time student.

Yes, I'd be sharing every detail of my research work.

To this research I also make my consultations with my father
since he is a structural engineer

Tests will be done in my school laboratory
UTM is the only equipment availabe
for some other tests, we'll be performing it
in the government lab or other university lab
my experiments will start by tuesday

NOTE:
I certainly expect any forms of error in the process of my research
since I'm still a student and a novice that would likely need
to learn more and more (a thousand times more)
but for my later profession
I will give my best for this study
so as not to put all the work to waste
and I hope that results and information will be helpful for everybody

title of the research:
PAPERCRETE AS A POTENTIAL RESIDENTIAL CONSTRUCTION MATERIAL

the study would most probably concerned or be limited to the
material itself for residential construction
and length of time for this research is also limited

thank you very much for the helpful comments

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Saturday, June 28, 2008

[papercreters] Different building design

For an interesting building design check Mother Earth News archives
for "Sugar Shack a 20th Century Yurt". This may be something that is
adaptable to Papercrete building. Thanks and have a great day.


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[papercreters] Re: Restoration using papercrete -new member

Hello Harold,

Welcome to the group.

Congratulations on your property purchase.

I do not know of anyone that has done exactly what you are
describing, but there have been several instances of people
insulating an existing structure with papercrete. That can work very
well.

Pictures of the existing structure would be very helpful in
stimulating this group with ideas about your project.

I would guess that the closest anyone has come to your project is
Robert Merrill's Retrofit project. See his photo album for details
and search the old messages. Robert has discussed it previously.
I'm sure he'd be happy to answer any questions also.

I hope this helps.

-----------------------------------------------------
bbutch2000 wrote:
To all:

I am new to this group and joined because I am building new house and
want to save resources and money. I am a retired engineer (IE) and
live in Oklahoma and I have been the owner builder of 2 houses.

I bought a lot with an old house on it and want to use to build the
new house on, but first I must do something with the old house. It
has a cracked slab foundation and the wall are tilting in. I want to
convert it to a work shop, but have to do something with the walls.
My thinking is to double wall it using what ever works, like maybe
some form of papercrete. Then I could add 2-3 of concrete to the
slab and I would have well insulated work shop. The roof is in good
shape.

Has anyone done this with success?

Thanks

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[papercreters] Re: OH forgot be safe

Thanks for sharing this Ken.

I think it is very important for all of us to share our "near miss"
stories. Every time we read about a close call, it reminds all of us
to be extra careful.

Construction accidents happen every day, and for many reasons. This
is not unique to papercrete.

Gloves, safety glasses, shields, guards, and other safety equipment
are all important but they only can do so much.

THE MOST IMPORTANT SAFETY DEVICE IS YOUR BRAIN. USE IT!

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "bornofthehorses"
<bornofthehorses@...> wrote:
>
> I should have put this in the last post RESPECT YOUR MIXER, I got 2
> guys out here by me started this year and both have commited deadly
> sins. NEVER EVER reach into your mixer while its running (fixed
> position on rollers) it can be done DO NOT. With 1 it was a 3
subject
> binder wire he seen the wire spinning around grabbed it to pull it
out.
> Lucky for him it just took his glove and sliced his hand. Do not
get in
> a hurry do not overload it 2nd guy threw 3 big phonebooks in locked
the
> blade. It snapped and it came right out the side of his mixer he
was on
> the other side from the hole lucky for him. L braino here has done
the
> same thing but I did not have someone less then a month befor tell
not
> to do things like that. I know I know common knowledge goes far etc
etc
> but think it out do not get in a hurry that thing can get you.
Respect
> your mixer. We want to hear about what you have done with PC not
what
> it has done to you. Not that we do not care its that we do not want
any
> of our members hurt. I feel bad for the guys because both their
ladies
> gave them hell because THEY REMEMBERED WHAT I TOLD THEM lol. So be
safe
> have fun make slurry.
> Ken
> yes I stole your line lol well part of it
>

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[papercreters] Re: I would like to see some projects.

Once you have pulled up a photo, there is an option just barely above
the photo on the left side. Click "Large" and you'll get the best view
available from that photo. If you need more detail than that, send me
a private email and we'll figure out what makes sense.

(The 'Large' option works on most photos we have in the photo section,
unless the original photo was a small one to begin with.)

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "austintexican" <les@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks, I saw that map but didn't figure how to 'zoom in' on anything,
>
><snip>

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Friday, June 27, 2008

[papercreters] OH forgot be safe

I should have put this in the last post RESPECT YOUR MIXER, I got 2
guys out here by me started this year and both have commited deadly
sins. NEVER EVER reach into your mixer while its running (fixed
position on rollers) it can be done DO NOT. With 1 it was a 3 subject
binder wire he seen the wire spinning around grabbed it to pull it out.
Lucky for him it just took his glove and sliced his hand. Do not get in
a hurry do not overload it 2nd guy threw 3 big phonebooks in locked the
blade. It snapped and it came right out the side of his mixer he was on
the other side from the hole lucky for him. L braino here has done the
same thing but I did not have someone less then a month befor tell not
to do things like that. I know I know common knowledge goes far etc etc
but think it out do not get in a hurry that thing can get you. Respect
your mixer. We want to hear about what you have done with PC not what
it has done to you. Not that we do not care its that we do not want any
of our members hurt. I feel bad for the guys because both their ladies
gave them hell because THEY REMEMBERED WHAT I TOLD THEM lol. So be safe
have fun make slurry.
Ken
yes I stole your line lol well part of it


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[papercreters] Oh yea I see it was volunteer

That is my axle in the home page picture I never noticed befor went and
paid a visit to the birthday video again. One thing that always gets
folks when I have over to learn about PC and have watched it. Was why
is that guy burning his wall (the clip where the torch test is going on)
because you can. Then I ask them how many (other)types of wall short of
brick or adobe could you get away with doing that to. I have tried HARD
to burn PC and I guess more then anything that was a main reason I use
it. Guess I should get some more pictures up of the shop for those that
have seen my starter picture. Yes those are sandbags/earthbags on the
walls they are slipformed with PC on the outside and inside next to the
frame.Using the frame as the inner form the doggy igloo is built the
same way. Anyway looks like we have a ton of new members nothing is cut
in stone with PC, but if you follow the lead of the old timers you will
not go wrong. I'm going to get crap for that comment I feel it coming
lol.
Ken


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[papercreters] Re: I would like to see some projects.

Thanks, I saw that map but didn't figure how to 'zoom in' on anything,
and I had a weak wifi connection that day also.
I have worked with concrete most of my life and from what I have seen on
the web, many problems could be solved by looking at how 'Mason
Greenstar'

http://www.jerisinger.com/greenstar/_V2/index.asp
makes his blocks. The big difference is that he starts with dry paper
pulp and uses only enough water to get it damp. I've used the same paper
product before and one of the 'additives' is borax or boric acid, this
eliminates the mold and bacteria problems and acts as a natural
fireproofing and insect repellent. Basically he uses just portland
cement and paper, no sand or clay... He is able to produce a block with
no shrinkage and more strength than conventional concrete blocks, and
they float. His blocks will absorb water but more like a concrete block
than a wet phone book.
I think the excess water is the biggest problem making papercrete. I
would suggest blending the paper with just water first, then drain the
pulp till the water quits running out before adding anything else. This
could possibly be done by dumping the wet pulp onto a large piece of
'shade cloth' to let it drain. Then add the dry ingredients and mix it
like they mix 'cob' on a tarp. Don't forget the borax.
I gotta go for now..... my daughters birthday party. good luck.

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "slurryguy" <slurryguy@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Les,
>
> Welcome to the group.
>
> In the Diagrams Album in the Papercreters Photos area there is a map.
> Each pushpin represents a structure using papercrete. They are either
> under construction or completed structures. I am positive that there
> are many structures in existence that are not shown, but those are the
> ones I've been able to track down. If I don't know at least what city
> a structure is in I do not display it on the map.
>

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Re: [papercreters] PC roof

One of the issues with using PC for a roof you will be sleeping under is its affinity to absorb water. Due to the weight of water (8 pounds per gallon) you could wind up with a roof structure failure as best and the whole soggy mess in your face wile you are sleeping.
I would recommend a good steel roof and conventional fiberglass insulation above conventional drywall.
Maybe not 100% green, but chingles safer.

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[papercreters] Ken Volunteers. Who is next? -was- Re: I would like to see some projects.

Thanks for volunteering Ken.

I look forward to receiving a private email from you giving me all
kinds of detailed information about papercrete in the Tuscon area. I
thought there was activity there, but I couldn't figure out exactly
what. I'll happily update the map with this information.

Everyone thank Ken for volunteering. Isn't that what everyone else
thinks Ken's post was doing? I realize he didn't say he was
volunteering explicitly, but it's pretty obvious that was his intent
right? Let's not let him off the hook now!

Ken's such a nice guy... everyone give him a big hug. (and then make
jokes about him until he forks over the info)

;)

We're always looking for new information about papercrete projects.
If you know of something and aren't sure whether it's on the map,
please send me an email about it.

I'm not Psychic. If nobody tells anybody about it how can we know?
I just pass along what I've read about or have been told about.


I would love to have people that know about all the structures in
Silver City, NM and Crestone, CO give me all the info there. I know
about some of the structures there, but I'm positive that I do not
know about all of them.

Help please.

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, ken bolin <bornofthehorses@...>
wrote:
>
> Dangg slurry I am sooooooooo hurt theres no pin on Tucson oh well
back ta slingen. Should be about 4 or 5 lol but thats ok you have
been busy and such.
> Ken
>
> --- On Fri, 6/27/08, slurryguy <slurryguy@...> wrote:
>
> From: slurryguy <slurryguy@...>
> Subject: [papercreters] Re: I would like to see some projects.
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Friday, June 27, 2008, 7:50 AM
>
> Hi Les,
>
> Welcome to the group.
>
> In the Diagrams Album in the Papercreters Photos area there is a
map.
>
><snip>

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Re: [papercreters] Re: I would like to see some projects.

Dangg slurry I am sooooooooo hurt theres no pin on Tucson oh well back ta slingen. Should be about 4 or 5 lol but thats ok you have been busy and such.

Ken

--- On Fri, 6/27/08, slurryguy <slurryguy@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: slurryguy <slurryguy@yahoo.com>
Subject: [papercreters] Re: I would like to see some projects.
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, June 27, 2008, 7:50 AM

Hi Les,  Welcome to the group.  In the Diagrams Album in the Papercreters Photos area there is a map.   Each pushpin represents a structure using papercrete.  They are either  under construction or completed structures.  I am positive that there  are many structures in existence that are not shown, but those are the  ones I've been able to track down.  If I don't know at least what city  a structure is in I do not display it on the map.  I have varying amounts of detailed information about most of those  sites, but not all of them.  I try very hard to respect other's  privacy, so I'm not willing to just publish addresses and other contact  information without their approval.  Many of the sites shown belong to members of this group and I see that  at least one member has already responded.  (Thanks Clyde)  I am happy to help people connect if I can, but I try to handle those  requests in private emails.  Eventually I hope to contact every building owner I know of and request  detailed information.  Permission to publish some of that information  would be one area I would be asking people about.    Take a look at the map.  Think about what areas you would be interested  in travelling to/through.  Take a look at photos of various structurs  in other photo albums.  Once you have a good idea of the areas and  types of things you wish to see, we can discuss exactly who/where it  makes sense for you to try to contact.   The only fee I charge for my services is that you promise to share  information and stories about your travels with everyone in this  group.  (pictures/videos would be good too.)  --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Les Moore" <les@...> wrote: > > Hi, Does anyone have a "List" of projects in construction or > completed? I'm new to the group (today) and only learned about > papercrete a couple weeks ago. I am "semi-retired", I drive a semi all > across the US and live mostly in my truck. I have a little land in > Texas and want to build something small, low cost, healthy, and > ecological. > I would like to see some project in different areas to learn more > about papercrete. Before becoming a "truck-dweller" five years ago I > was a builder and have 35 years construction experience.  Thanks. >    ------------------------------------  Yahoo! Groups Links  <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/  <*> Your email settings:     Individual Email | Traditional  <*> To change settings online go to:     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join     (Yahoo! ID required)  <*> To change settings via email:     mailto:papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com      mailto:papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com  <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:     papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com  <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

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[papercreters] Re: I would like to see some projects.

Hi Les,

Welcome to the group.

In the Diagrams Album in the Papercreters Photos area there is a map.
Each pushpin represents a structure using papercrete. They are either
under construction or completed structures. I am positive that there
are many structures in existence that are not shown, but those are the
ones I've been able to track down. If I don't know at least what city
a structure is in I do not display it on the map.

I have varying amounts of detailed information about most of those
sites, but not all of them. I try very hard to respect other's
privacy, so I'm not willing to just publish addresses and other contact
information without their approval.

Many of the sites shown belong to members of this group and I see that
at least one member has already responded. (Thanks Clyde)

I am happy to help people connect if I can, but I try to handle those
requests in private emails.

Eventually I hope to contact every building owner I know of and request
detailed information. Permission to publish some of that information
would be one area I would be asking people about.

Take a look at the map. Think about what areas you would be interested
in travelling to/through. Take a look at photos of various structurs
in other photo albums. Once you have a good idea of the areas and
types of things you wish to see, we can discuss exactly who/where it
makes sense for you to try to contact.

The only fee I charge for my services is that you promise to share
information and stories about your travels with everyone in this
group. (pictures/videos would be good too.)

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Les Moore" <les@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, Does anyone have a "List" of projects in construction or
> completed? I'm new to the group (today) and only learned about
> papercrete a couple weeks ago. I am "semi-retired", I drive a semi all
> across the US and live mostly in my truck. I have a little land in
> Texas and want to build something small, low cost, healthy, and
> ecological.
> I would like to see some project in different areas to learn more
> about papercrete. Before becoming a "truck-dweller" five years ago I
> was a builder and have 35 years construction experience. Thanks.
>

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[papercreters] Mikey's Guest Dome

Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

(sorry for my lengthy comment... hehe)

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Mikey Sklar <sklarm-yahoo@...>
wrote:
>
> <snip>
>
> This week we started building a 20' diameter version of a
> hemispherical papercrete/ferrocement dome. It took about 40 hours of
> cutting and welding to make the arches. Another 40 hours to assemble
> the first half of the dome arches. I sure am glad we limited the
> height of the dome to 13' any higher would really slow us down.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/33y8lh
>
> -Mikey
> http://blog.holyscraphotsprings.com
>

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[papercreters] Re: Introduction

Welcome Gero, enjoy!

Don't hesitate to post about your small experimental project as it
takes shape.

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Gero Bazant" <gero.bazant@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi everybody,
>
> I just wanted to introduce myself -- finally -- after having spent
some time
> now simply reading all the various submissions here at this excellent
forum.
>
> <snip>


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[papercreters] Re: Soundproofing applications

I do not have any hard data about the sound or vibration deadening
characteristics of papercrete.

Logically, it seems that MOST any material that provides good thermal
insulation will also provide good acoustic insulation. I don't have
any data to back that statement up, but it seems to make sense.

I have read multiple highly subjective reports about how quiet a
papercrete structure tends to be. I can't recall enough details to
point you to any of them, but my hazy memory can only do so much.

I do think that the surface treatment of the wall can be important
also. If the wall is plastered with a hard layer, it would probably
tend to trap and echo whatever sounds do manage to enter the
structure. Keeping a softer interior surface, perhaps fabric, on the
papercrete would seem to make sense. Again, I have no specific data
to back up my hypothesis.

My humble guess would be that the most difficult aspect of such a
chamber would be the details surrounding the ventilation system. I
suppose an unventilated room could be extremely quiet whether it's
sound isolated or not. A suffocated person won't hear much noise as
they lay on the floor unconcious. There must be a better way.
Insulated convective ducts would probably be the quietest. They'd
have no mechanical moving parts to squeak, rattle, or make other
noises.

Getting approximate measurments of acoustic properties of a room need
not be particularly expensive. Audio Decible meters are not
particularly expensive, and can be easily constructed from common
componenets. If you are interested in high precision calibration,
then I'm sure that the cost increases. Why does an average person
need to go that far? If you are only interested in relative
measurments to compare various techniques and potential improvements,
then the equipment need not be expensive.

Nothing wrong with using your ears either. What difference does it
make what the numbers are? Keep insulating until you can sit in
there and not hear anything. An experiemental "refridgerator box"
could be built from papercrete and modified until you can sit in it
and be satisfied that it's quiet enough FOR YOU. Then go build your
fancy room to the same specifications as your experimental box.

I have little doubt that a careful and detail oriented individual can
inexpensively construct a chamber that allows the loudest sounds in
the room to be the breathing of the occupant and the gurgling in
their digestive tract.

(Insert obligatory "pull my finger" joke here.) (uhhh... that's
another good reason for a ventilation system... hehehe)

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "chorizochub" <dalindsay@...>
wrote:
>
> STC (sound transmission class) refers to the ability of a building
> partition to absorb vibrations of various frequencies, thus reducing
> audible sounds from the other side, according to wikipedia.
> What I would like is to gather info on the properties of various
> mixtures of papercrete relating to sound insulation. If you have any
> info or suggestions, I would love to hear them.
>
><snip>

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[papercreters] Thanks!

Appreciate your replies! I took some measurements & pic's, but
they're pretty depressed-looking to post? ... yeeee.

Overhang is 6" on two sides, others are 8" and 10" (addition).

4" thick walls have older insulation from time of construction (about
1970).

Addition is 12' x 20', ground-level on concrete slab; original is 24'
x 30' (double-wide) without much peak on concrete block foundation.

Electrical doesn't worry me, helps if I stay away from 220 (or is it
240? -- well pump & stove, probably doesn't matter if I know exactly
how much it is if I get zapped). I did some minor kitchen remodeling
& recently repaired the bathroom.

A few reasons for keeping this standing, aside from current financial
situation... New housing for setbacks would be 25', this one is about
10', and would require septic inspection along with permits. New unit
would increase property taxes, and I'd rather use future monies
traveling south in the winter than paying to maintain a fine dwelling.

I'm all for alternatives, and learned about concrete some years back,
when I stirred it up in a 5-gallon bucket, literally by hand (gloves
leaked?)- don't recommend it. I really appreciate this site, and the
folks both willing to explore alternatives and share their
experiences. I'll gather information on this, and morph it into
what's best suited for my needs.

Appreciate all the feedback! Like most things in life, seems there is
no real 'right way', but a lot of choices to consider.

Thanks - elaine



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Thursday, June 26, 2008

Re: [papercreters] Re: dome construction

Why I'd consider a dome... 1) safety - tornado / straight-line winds main risk here, and the aerodynamic shape is better than boxes. Aside from a friend into geometric shapes, there's other supporting evidence, two of which are:

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geodesic_dome

 

http://static.monolithic.com/plan-design/survive/index.html

 

2) Structurally, we have about 6 months of more indoor-than-out weather here, and the square rooms 'appear' smaller than a round area, especially if it is 2 stories with 1/2 open loft; fewer corners to narrow visual perception, kind of like the horizon.

 

3) Cold / hot weather. I believe air spirals and circulates more smoothly in a dome. Possibly a simple and inappropriate example would be trying to roll marbles around inside a square box versus a circular can.

 

4) Cost and difficulty. Assembly costs for 'do-it-yourselfers' makes it fairly reasonable compared to stick-built conventional housing - two offered here.

 

http://www.intlist.com/cat2.htm structure

 

http://www.intlist.com/cat5c.htm pricing list

 

5) And you're right - the design will annoy "square-lovin'" folks, yet most cathedrals, native huts, sweat lodges, igloos, bird's nests, bee hives are circular. If squares were a better design, I believe Nature would have evolved squares, but the closest I could come to squares was cellular structure of some plants (more oblong); it was a question I pondered driving one time, and if you can think of anything Nature squares, I'd be glad to add it to my "things I know that serve very little use" pile - seriously.

 

I will suggest "getting back to nature" may mean considering the practical aspects of a spherical shape; I dreamed I was bouncing in a 'Bucky-ball' (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buckyball - darned if they don't mention domes on this site!) which is when my description triggered a friend to tell me about carbon60! :)

 

6) I have no affiliation with any given identity particularly; I'm not hippie-straight-white-Native-Christian-Atheist-traditional-nontraditional-orthodox-radical-etc. anything. I'm just me, with a handful of tools trying to apply logic in an illogical world; a beaver dam is round, seems to me there may be a reason it exists this way. Future saleability, I don't really care - I plan to live 'til the day I die, and then I hope I have the good sense to not get up. My main concern is creating a structure most practical and efficient for me. If I cared what others thought, 90% of the life I've lived would be altered, doubt I'll change soon (considering I just turned 50, odds aren't looking good). The thought of using a waste product for something practical fully appeals to me; I've banked with leaves for the winter from the perception of 'free insulation'; kept dry with a plastic sheet, it couldn't hurt, and then easily returned "to nature" come spring. Maybe part of that is 'poor farmer mentality', we made do or did without, and I've replaced 'real insulation' in houses for newspaper crumpled in the walls (talk about fire hazards, nothing like century-old lathes with newspaper creating flues in the walls). I surely hope we, as a people, can create housing with greater intelligence and ease than earlier civilizations, but with the same self-sufficient, hands-on approach that generated sod houses. I don't see why I should need $50,000 - $100,000 "to build a house" if I'm smart enough to seek alternatives. Yet a pre-fab before foundation was $80,000, not so solid, and wouldn't withstand the living we tend to generate here (it was pretty, not well-designed for functionality, and... boring). I'm just trying to keep a roof up, and if there's a reason for alternatives not gaining any ground....

 

THAT is EASY!!! - no profit. 'Square-built' thinking wants square houses, banks will finance, money market will provide material. Anything that messes with someone's profits will not get much voice, including GE's electric car (Who Killed the Electric Car?). Wind generators need to be company-controlled to grid, so they don't lose future profits; even if they could share ways for all of us to cheaply be energy-independent, they wouldn't / couldn't because it'd be cutting their own throats, as in "$ business as usual". A lot of nay-saying will go into stifling alternative methods to keep people thinking in the direction best-serving money interests. It's logical to the society we've developed. How else could they sell Humvee's as a status symbol when oil-shortage warnings have been around for decades, and we were at war in an oil-rich country? Lemmings following the leader aren't necessarily going in the right direction, but it's comforting to be following the pack; it's also what we're taught.

 

In some ways, I got lucky. My life was conducive to self-thinking from a young age on a lot of heavy topics, and the farm taught me more than any human has, barring a gent who passed in 2000 and taught me what it was to be loved. :) 'Nam vet I picked up hitch-hiking, which does show how orthodox I'm not.

 

No idea why anyone else would consider domes, but my research and local model (water foundation, with solar / ground heat / wind / composting toilets, etc.) display make it worthy of consideration. Reason I'd suggest it for a second story on this place: open area, base round, wind resistant, snow weight minimized. Reason I wouldn't: support structure of lower level would need re-enforcing, about the same for any extra weight on top. Comparatively, if a structure weighs less and sheds snow better than 20 - 24 inches of compact snow on the current roof... I am tired of shoveling it off regularly!

 

Odds likely, this place would be flat if a tornado hit it. There is 'no safe place' in it, and a hole in the ground would be more protective. I figure the Universe knows the situation here, and mostly it's the micro-climate of the nook I'm in that keeps much of the wind at bay and temps more moderate than surrounding area (60% of county froze septics one year, I... got lucky). Most 'storm-proof' housing' costs more than I can afford, and the high-end energy-efficient also follows this model. Breaking this cost-cycle for proverty-level folks is one of the potential uses of papercrete; pouring concrete isn't that difficult, though time-consuming, labor-intensive, and dirty (my mom mixed & poured concrete once when I was a kid; she died when I was eleven, but set me a standard of independent thinking). Interesting how warm a barn is without insulation, but a lot of hay bales in the loft and critters below; papercrete holds promise of this insulating effect, due to the lightness of the mix... and the last time I gathered rocks, the DNR made me put them back? :)

 

So we see why I, for one, would consider a dome structure, especially when earth-home isn't too practical to dig down at this location - water complications, otherwise I'd say it was ideal in a winter-cold, summer-hot, tornado-risk climate.

 

Hope this answers some of your questions, but this is "just me" - elaine in MN 



--- On Thu, 6/26/08, clydetcurry <clyde@evesgarden.org> wrote:

From: clydetcurry <clyde@evesgarden.org>
Subject: [papercreters] Re: dome construction
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, June 26, 2008, 6:49 PM

maybe you should build with some other material- Clyde- In
papercreters@ yahoogroups. com, "Chita Jing" <cargovanfan@ ...> wrote:
>
> Okay, I'm dense. Exactly why are people building domes and vaults
with
> papercrete? Do they like the looks of Middle Eastern housing on an
American
> desert floor? I admired Nader Khalili, thought his version of "mud
houses"
> was the natural heir to Hassan Fathy - fired ceramic housing made
Khalili's
> method da bomb - but most of those houses look alien on American soil,
> pretentious even. Adobe people are lovely, well meaning and way down the
> wrong path both aesthetically and culturally outside the locales
which bred
> mud housing. Just as a teepee would stick out in the middle of
Devonshire,
> it's a bit surprising to see Swiss Alps housing in Southern
California, even
> if Solvang is, like, the funnest collection of vernacular
architecture since
> the hot dog stand that looked like a hot dog. A Fathy-Khalili house
in the
> Denver burbs is as jarring as those moussed and moccassined
Caucasians in
> yoga classes who reluctantly but unavoidably "speak Sanskrit" as
they relate
> how they spent five years learning to tuck their feet behind their ears.
>
> I've been interested in alternative housing a while. I've tried to
> understand and keep in touch with various lists and groups over the last
> twenty-five years and honest, I just see so little progress. We must be
> doing something wrong. The few viable alternatives foundered in
their most
> expensive trials - google SIP in Alaska for one sad example.
>
> I admire papercrete as a material, don't misunderstand me. I'm not
> against most of the methods that have mailing lists. But in my
opinion, a
> major reason alternative building methods have gained almost no
ground in
> thirty years is that the people in those groups hardly ever get down to
> bedrock discussions. Every group seems to fall into a mindset where the
> question becomes, "Where can we build a waffle-weave- polyester
dwelling,"
> instead of, "How do we house people better within our lifetimes?"
>
> Can we do more to get to the core of the issues? Have we spoken
about
> what could be called The Point? Is papercrete basically being passed
around
> as a way to make imitation drywall/plaster? Look around you. With
gasoline
> at $5/gallon, what sort of demographic segments will move out to the
boonies
> to buld individual houses that won't qualify for mortgages or
insurance? Who
> will clean those houses that make the front cover of Alternative
> Architecture Monthly? Where and how will THEY live? If alternative
houses
> are all owner built, how will those owners sustain those homes out
in the
> boonies as they get older? Should we call this field Trust Fund
Housing so
> folks are better prepared for the long term picture that's emerging?
>
> I'm just asking.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 22, 2008 at 10:21 AM, Tom Curry <contact@... >
> wrote:
>
> > Hi Kristen,
> > Nader Khalili's book is a good how-to source. Papercrete works
very well
> > for dome and barrel vault construction. We have built both here
in Alpine
> > and Marfa, TX. and so has Clyde Curry over in nearby Marathon.
We're not
> > that far from southern NM so come check them out sometime. Also
you can see
> > pictures on the papercreter' s website.
> >
> > Tom Curry
> >
> >
>


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[papercreters] Re: dome construction

maybe you should build with some other material- Clyde- In
papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Chita Jing" <cargovanfan@...> wrote:
>
> Okay, I'm dense. Exactly why are people building domes and vaults
with
> papercrete? Do they like the looks of Middle Eastern housing on an
American
> desert floor? I admired Nader Khalili, thought his version of "mud
houses"
> was the natural heir to Hassan Fathy - fired ceramic housing made
Khalili's
> method da bomb - but most of those houses look alien on American soil,
> pretentious even. Adobe people are lovely, well meaning and way down the
> wrong path both aesthetically and culturally outside the locales
which bred
> mud housing. Just as a teepee would stick out in the middle of
Devonshire,
> it's a bit surprising to see Swiss Alps housing in Southern
California, even
> if Solvang is, like, the funnest collection of vernacular
architecture since
> the hot dog stand that looked like a hot dog. A Fathy-Khalili house
in the
> Denver burbs is as jarring as those moussed and moccassined
Caucasians in
> yoga classes who reluctantly but unavoidably "speak Sanskrit" as
they relate
> how they spent five years learning to tuck their feet behind their ears.
>
> I've been interested in alternative housing a while. I've tried to
> understand and keep in touch with various lists and groups over the last
> twenty-five years and honest, I just see so little progress. We must be
> doing something wrong. The few viable alternatives foundered in
their most
> expensive trials - google SIP in Alaska for one sad example.
>
> I admire papercrete as a material, don't misunderstand me. I'm not
> against most of the methods that have mailing lists. But in my
opinion, a
> major reason alternative building methods have gained almost no
ground in
> thirty years is that the people in those groups hardly ever get down to
> bedrock discussions. Every group seems to fall into a mindset where the
> question becomes, "Where can we build a waffle-weave-polyester
dwelling,"
> instead of, "How do we house people better within our lifetimes?"
>
> Can we do more to get to the core of the issues? Have we spoken
about
> what could be called The Point? Is papercrete basically being passed
around
> as a way to make imitation drywall/plaster? Look around you. With
gasoline
> at $5/gallon, what sort of demographic segments will move out to the
boonies
> to buld individual houses that won't qualify for mortgages or
insurance? Who
> will clean those houses that make the front cover of Alternative
> Architecture Monthly? Where and how will THEY live? If alternative
houses
> are all owner built, how will those owners sustain those homes out
in the
> boonies as they get older? Should we call this field Trust Fund
Housing so
> folks are better prepared for the long term picture that's emerging?
>
> I'm just asking.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 22, 2008 at 10:21 AM, Tom Curry <contact@...>
> wrote:
>
> > Hi Kristen,
> > Nader Khalili's book is a good how-to source. Papercrete works
very well
> > for dome and barrel vault construction. We have built both here
in Alpine
> > and Marfa, TX. and so has Clyde Curry over in nearby Marathon.
We're not
> > that far from southern NM so come check them out sometime. Also
you can see
> > pictures on the papercreter's website.
> >
> > Tom Curry
> >
> >
>

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