Friday, November 30, 2007

[papercreters] Re: Hard decision to make--adding onto moved house

Thanks, Ernie,

Well I went to Google and came up with MountainView Dome when I
searched. I guess that's him. I'm having lots of email trouble w/my
new Spring Air Card. I got that the mail didn't go through when I
tried to email him from that site. I don't know if it's his site or
my Sprint, so I will try your email as well. Thanks.

Connie

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Ernie Phelps" <eepjr24@...>
wrote:
>
> >
> > I'm not familiar with this man you are talking about. Can you
> > tell me how to contact him?
>
> I am pretty good with the search engine, but this guy does not make
> himself easy to find. heh. Here is the best I could do with the
time I
> had at work:
>
> Mert Hull
> Tecton Corporation
> Colorado Springs, CO
>
> mert AT goldwest DOT net
>
> Replace the capitalized words with the punctuation they represent
for
> his addy. Don't want him gettnig spammed because I posted it.
>
> - Ernie
>



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[papercreters] Re: Hard decision to make--adding onto moved house

>
> I'm not familiar with this man you are talking about. Can you
> tell me how to contact him?

I am pretty good with the search engine, but this guy does not make
himself easy to find. heh. Here is the best I could do with the time I
had at work:

Mert Hull
Tecton Corporation
Colorado Springs, CO

mert AT goldwest DOT net

Replace the capitalized words with the punctuation they represent for
his addy. Don't want him gettnig spammed because I posted it.

- Ernie



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Re: [papercreters] Re: Hard decision to make--adding onto moved house

Connie, MD is the place in tx.
 
google "Mert Hull" dome builder
I'd find his site for you, but I am working fast to get a job done and can't spare the extra time.
 
ElfN
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 11:03 AM
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Hard decision to make--adding onto moved house

Thank you for your fast response, ElfN

Actually this is the group in Italy, TX--Monolithic Institute, not MD.

I'm not familiar with this man you are talking about. Can you tell
me how to contact him?

Connie

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "ElfNori" <elf@...> wrote:
>
> You cannot beat the house for the price. At $8500, that's only $11
a square foot . . . I'd be inclined to grab it and figure out how to
handle the dome part after the fact. Why don't you talk to Mert
Hull. Unlike the team at MD, he truly can think outside the box and
can tell you how to do what you want.
>
> google "Mert Hull" dome builder
>
> ElfN
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Robert & Connie
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 10:49 AM
> Subject: [papercreters] Hard decision to make--adding onto moved
house
>
>
> We have a chance to get a "freebee" house, 20X36, a neighbor 600
feet
> from us just wants to get rid of on property he just bought.
>
> Best price so far is $4,500 to move it 600 feet! And another
$4000
> to set it on pier and beam. Neither serious movers I talked to
were
> willing to put slab under it.
>
> House leaves a lot to be desired, but we came up with 3 different
> nifty floor plans to incorporate it in a larger design over time.
> Our preferred plan is building a 44 foot one story dome around
it,
> using all of its present framing for the rooms. This framing
would
> take care of all rooms except an additional bedroom, bath and
living
> room. Nearer completion, the roof would be removed so that the
dome
> could be completed. We wanted professional blue prints from the
Dome
> Institute so we could accurately communicate with a foundation
and
> house mover contractor, but they can only think about the baloon
> building method and told us it couldn't be done--couldn't get
their
> scaffoldiing in, and many other excuses. Well we didn't
necessarily
> want them to do the work, just prepare the blueprint for us. But
> after the attitude we got, we felt we would waste our money on
their
> preparing blueprints.
>
> Now we are against the wall. The man wants the house moved
> yesterday! And no blue prints, no contractors lined up.
>
> The problem is these two house movers won't do the slab, only
pier
> and beam, which makes me wonder if a dome plan is doable. I see
the
> pressure from a dome design making a lot of outward force on a
pier
> and beam. Can you safely and effectively build a dome on a pier
and
> beam?
>
> Would you dome lovers go this route if you were in our shoes?
>
> Connie
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
----------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.10/1160 - Release Date:
11/29/2007 8:32 PM
>


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[papercreters] Re: Hard decision to make--adding onto moved house

Thank you for your fast response, ElfN

Actually this is the group in Italy, TX--Monolithic Institute, not MD.

I'm not familiar with this man you are talking about. Can you tell
me how to contact him?

Connie

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "ElfNori" <elf@...> wrote:
>
> You cannot beat the house for the price. At $8500, that's only $11
a square foot . . . I'd be inclined to grab it and figure out how to
handle the dome part after the fact. Why don't you talk to Mert
Hull. Unlike the team at MD, he truly can think outside the box and
can tell you how to do what you want.
>
> google "Mert Hull" dome builder
>
> ElfN
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Robert & Connie
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 10:49 AM
> Subject: [papercreters] Hard decision to make--adding onto moved
house
>
>
> We have a chance to get a "freebee" house, 20X36, a neighbor 600
feet
> from us just wants to get rid of on property he just bought.
>
> Best price so far is $4,500 to move it 600 feet! And another
$4000
> to set it on pier and beam. Neither serious movers I talked to
were
> willing to put slab under it.
>
> House leaves a lot to be desired, but we came up with 3 different
> nifty floor plans to incorporate it in a larger design over time.
> Our preferred plan is building a 44 foot one story dome around
it,
> using all of its present framing for the rooms. This framing
would
> take care of all rooms except an additional bedroom, bath and
living
> room. Nearer completion, the roof would be removed so that the
dome
> could be completed. We wanted professional blue prints from the
Dome
> Institute so we could accurately communicate with a foundation
and
> house mover contractor, but they can only think about the baloon
> building method and told us it couldn't be done--couldn't get
their
> scaffoldiing in, and many other excuses. Well we didn't
necessarily
> want them to do the work, just prepare the blueprint for us. But
> after the attitude we got, we felt we would waste our money on
their
> preparing blueprints.
>
> Now we are against the wall. The man wants the house moved
> yesterday! And no blue prints, no contractors lined up.
>
> The problem is these two house movers won't do the slab, only
pier
> and beam, which makes me wonder if a dome plan is doable. I see
the
> pressure from a dome design making a lot of outward force on a
pier
> and beam. Can you safely and effectively build a dome on a pier
and
> beam?
>
> Would you dome lovers go this route if you were in our shoes?
>
> Connie
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.10/1160 - Release Date:
11/29/2007 8:32 PM
>



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Re: [papercreters] Hard decision to make--adding onto moved house

You cannot beat the house for the price.  At $8500, that's only $11 a square foot . . . I'd be inclined to grab it and figure out how to handle the dome part after the fact.  Why don't you talk to Mert Hull.  Unlike the team at MD, he truly can think outside the box and can tell you how to do what you want.
 
google "Mert Hull" dome builder
 
ElfN
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 10:49 AM
Subject: [papercreters] Hard decision to make--adding onto moved house

We have a chance to get a "freebee" house, 20X36, a neighbor 600 feet
from us just wants to get rid of on property he just bought.

Best price so far is $4,500 to move it 600 feet! And another $4000
to set it on pier and beam. Neither serious movers I talked to were
willing to put slab under it.

House leaves a lot to be desired, but we came up with 3 different
nifty floor plans to incorporate it in a larger design over time.
Our preferred plan is building a 44 foot one story dome around it,
using all of its present framing for the rooms. This framing would
take care of all rooms except an additional bedroom, bath and living
room. Nearer completion, the roof would be removed so that the dome
could be completed. We wanted professional blue prints from the Dome
Institute so we could accurately communicate with a foundation and
house mover contractor, but they can only think about the baloon
building method and told us it couldn't be done--couldn't get their
scaffoldiing in, and many other excuses. Well we didn't necessarily
want them to do the work, just prepare the blueprint for us. But
after the attitude we got, we felt we would waste our money on their
preparing blueprints.

Now we are against the wall. The man wants the house moved
yesterday! And no blue prints, no contractors lined up.

The problem is these two house movers won't do the slab, only pier
and beam, which makes me wonder if a dome plan is doable. I see the
pressure from a dome design making a lot of outward force on a pier
and beam. Can you safely and effectively build a dome on a pier and
beam?

Would you dome lovers go this route if you were in our shoes?

Connie


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.10/1160 - Release Date: 11/29/2007 8:32 PM
__._,_.___

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[papercreters] Hard decision to make--adding onto moved house

We have a chance to get a "freebee" house, 20X36, a neighbor 600 feet
from us just wants to get rid of on property he just bought.

Best price so far is $4,500 to move it 600 feet! And another $4000
to set it on pier and beam. Neither serious movers I talked to were
willing to put slab under it.

House leaves a lot to be desired, but we came up with 3 different
nifty floor plans to incorporate it in a larger design over time.
Our preferred plan is building a 44 foot one story dome around it,
using all of its present framing for the rooms. This framing would
take care of all rooms except an additional bedroom, bath and living
room. Nearer completion, the roof would be removed so that the dome
could be completed. We wanted professional blue prints from the Dome
Institute so we could accurately communicate with a foundation and
house mover contractor, but they can only think about the baloon
building method and told us it couldn't be done--couldn't get their
scaffoldiing in, and many other excuses. Well we didn't necessarily
want them to do the work, just prepare the blueprint for us. But
after the attitude we got, we felt we would waste our money on their
preparing blueprints.

Now we are against the wall. The man wants the house moved
yesterday! And no blue prints, no contractors lined up.

The problem is these two house movers won't do the slab, only pier
and beam, which makes me wonder if a dome plan is doable. I see the
pressure from a dome design making a lot of outward force on a pier
and beam. Can you safely and effectively build a dome on a pier and
beam?

Would you dome lovers go this route if you were in our shoes?

Connie


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Re: [papercreters] Re: paper pulp for TP & 'crete begin same way

OK! It's 2 a.m. and obviously, I don't have a life to find the video
on toilet paper so fascinating.

I didn't know they used recycled paper--just hope it's not recycled
toilet paper! :0)

Connie
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~  Clipped
 

Hey Connie, You have to look at the 2 ply side of this rolling wonder.

In my Handmade Paper Class I teach my little ones that TP is

History on a Roll and how to recycle it. :o)

And, if you throw the whole roll into a pan of water, it will

magically dissolve into Paper Pulp. If you add a half cup of

concrete, and 3 tsp of cornstarch and 1 tsp of Elmers glue

to the entire mix -- this PC mixture, when spread between

two pieces of plastic screening can be (rolled) into the shape

of TP rolls. Then you let the paper roll dry, and remove the

window screening. You get the same results, using a different,

process. And you control the size of the (roll), by adjusting

how tight or how loose the screening is.In the movie the big

winding machines only produced one size.

 

It was just an experiment for my class, first developing the

homemade PC recipe, and then using it to imitate an existing

product, make it functional, and finally, use it as art. :o )

I really did enjoy the movie. The kids think their PC TP

method is a lot cooler. They can create theirs in color. :o )

 

Patricia.

------------------------------


----- Original Message ----
From: Robert & Connie <babalubird@tx.rr.com>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 2:28:12 AM
Subject: [papercreters] Re: paper pulp for TP & 'crete begin same way

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[papercreters] Re: paper pulp for TP & 'crete begin same way

OK! It's 2 a.m. and obviously, I don't have a life to find the video
on toilet paper so fascinating.

I didn't know they used recycled paper--just hope it's not recycled
toilet paper! :0)

Connie

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Patricia Crabtree <b2b_101@...>
wrote:
>
> Thanks Charmaine for the TP update, I enjoyed the movie,
> quite enlightening, especially seeing how they make toilet paper
rolls.
>
> Patricia
> ------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Dirtcheapbuilder-Charmaine <tms@...>
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 1:28:44 AM
> Subject: [papercreters] paper pulp for TP & 'crete begin same way
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrg_6dny6Po&feature=related

<<< a
> Youtube clip
>
> Tonight on our channel 24- History Channel is a program
called "How
> It's Made" I enjoy this program for the instant gratification on
how
> many common, and odd, items are created.
>
> the video clip above- 5 minutes -- is the exact segment shown on
the
> program.
>
> the first 60 seconds is history of TP, then the next 2 minutes
could
> actually be a Papercrete making demo! ( without the cement)
>
> Shows HOW all sorts of recycled paper/newspaper/mags are turned
into
> pulp-- vey much like papercrete
>
> Charmaine Taylor Publishing
> STOREWIDE SALE on Books & Videos
>

www.dirtcheapbuilder.com
> Tel: 1-707-441-1632 PST Eureka, Calif.
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>



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[papercreters] Re: Looking for used Tirolessa Sprayer, Thanks Greg & Spaceman

Thanks to both of you. I've saved the instructions along with
Spaceman's additional recommendation to my Favorites so I can show
Hubby when he returns.

Connie


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Thursday, November 29, 2007

[papercreters] Re: string trimmer

On Nov 29, 2007, at 1:38 AM, papercreters@yahoogroups.com wrote:

There was an article in the Stolsberg [Solberg] book about a woman
using a string trimmer to shred the paper. I don't know if this book is
still available. Charmaine could you let us know?

++++++++++++++
the book is avail; Building with Papercrete & Paper Adobe $35. I keep
it in stock, along with their companion DVD of same name.
http://www.dirtcheapbuilder.com/builwitpappa2.html


Yes, to my knowledge a string trimmer/ weed whacker has been used in
both straw bale and papercrete.

loose straw is chopped up with the trimmer easily, ( fine straw for
plasters is needed this method seems to be perfect for that use)
paper needs to be torn up a bit, no full books or heavy cardboard as I
recall. in both cases a lid is kept on, or a notch in the lid is made
so the trimmer can be moved about inside.

I have NOT use this method, so not clear what else is done to make it
work, OR if it all comes out evenly chopped up.

YMMV

Charmaine Taylor Publishing
STOREWIDE SALE on Books & Videos

www.dirtcheapbuilder.com
Tel: 1-707-441-1632 PST Eureka, Calif.

Re: [papercreters] paper pulp for TP & 'crete begin same way


 Thanks Charmaine for the TP update, I enjoyed the movie,
quite enlightening, especially seeing how they make toilet paper rolls.
 
Patricia
------------------------------------------------


----- Original Message ----
From: Dirtcheapbuilder-Charmaine <tms@northcoast.com>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 1:28:44 AM
Subject: [papercreters] paper pulp for TP & 'crete begin same way

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrg_6dny6Po&feature=related  <<< a
Youtube clip

Tonight on our  channel 24- History Channel is a program called "How
It's Made"  I enjoy this  program for the instant gratification on how
many common, and odd, items are created.

the video clip above- 5 minutes -- is the exact segment shown on the
program.

the first 60 seconds is history of TP, then the next 2 minutes could
actually be a Papercrete  making demo! ( without the cement)

Shows  HOW  all sorts of recycled  paper/newspaper/mags are turned into
pulp-- vey much like  papercrete

Charmaine Taylor Publishing
STOREWIDE SALE on Books & Videos
  www.dirtcheapbuilder.com
Tel:  1-707-441-1632 PST  Eureka, Calif.
 



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[papercreters] Re: First time P-crete results, Pt I

Thanks to all of you: Spaceman, Kahunna, Greg.

--I used a full bag (47#) in the full barrow of pulp.

--It was not ahrd to wash off anything, as noted here the paper seems
to bind the cement up better than aggregate so you are basically
washing pulp tidbits off. Even after drying since Sun the paper
washed off easy from metal, wood, concrete. Tommorrow I will see how
the papercrete washes off after 2 days sitting.

--Yes the string trimmer was my own idea borne of necessity, to avoid
functional fixedness I brainstormed, using the idea of cutting the
paper as my seed. Trimmer was third after 2 stroke mantis type
tiller and chipper shreder.

--I am career Lawna Garden Tech, so I aint too worried about busting
the equip.

--Not to omuch mess as the trimmer has a clutch. Teried to rev and
de-rev under the surface of barrwo of wet pulp. Its a cheap homeowner
4-stroke. I will try using a 4 lobe brush blade on it, or an
engineered plastic or composite cut in such a shape.
WISH I still had my 51 cc old school craftsman Japanese trimmer!

--long term?? paper will be torn a bit as saved (inside house), and
when main storage trash cans ouside are full they will be shredded
by shredder, emptying into a bag. Will store dry shreds in swire cage
temporarily until I can then set them shreds to ret a day or two
in 'barrow.

--good results mixing cement into well-retted pulp by hand with short
spade. EASY, much more so than regualr crete!!

--------Just checked, as it has cured and dewatered in the form over
the night, the top has settled down from just above the form (loosely
screeded) to just below, and it ahs come in from the edges just a tad.

---First object we are making is panels to cover and eventually
enclose sides of our fire wood.

---making first block extra stong as PUBLICITY ITEM.----------

FIL nextdoor has 35 year carrer as GC in this county,

BIL across street is not a general contractor, but is Superintendent
(up from carpenter ranks) of a company tht makes HUGE cable wrapped
water storage tanks out of regualr crete.

----------Want to Make good pub for PC, show first it is strong
durable, and cheap. All i got in this block is the cost of cement!!

************For any major project, I plan to semi industrialize,a nd
will buy newsprint at just over the recycler price to get it in bulk
to my crib in the rural hood More money for the collector homies.

THANKS to all you all!!


-- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "David-\"The Hern\""
<jerrydave1@...> wrote:
>
> Howdy all, this weekend was our first try at PC.
>
> Sat I set a buch of torn stuff into wheelbarrow and added water.
>
> Kept turning and tearing some, but carboard, coateds,a dn strips of
> newsprint werent pulping apart.
>
> LSS, I used a 4 stroke string trimmer with approx 2 inhces line
> sticking out to finish pulping. Now have a wheelbarrow almost full
> to the top with oatmeal-ish pulp.
>
> I have a 60 pound cement, do you all think its enough for a
> contractor wheel barrow full to top with pulp?
>
> Planning to pour after work sometime this weeek, or Sunday if can
tdo
> after work. Sat is not an open day for us this week.
>
> I have a 2 ft by 4 ft frame built, and will make another before I
mix
> and dispense. Using steel poultry netting as reinforcement.
>
> Wish us luck, and let me know how much cement I should addd to pulp?
>
> Thanks, Dave
>



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[papercreters] paper pulp for TP & 'crete begin same way

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrg_6dny6Po&feature=related

<<< a
Youtube clip

Tonight on our channel 24- History Channel is a program called "How
It's Made" I enjoy this program for the instant gratification on how
many common, and odd, items are created.

the video clip above- 5 minutes -- is the exact segment shown on the
program.

the first 60 seconds is history of TP, then the next 2 minutes could
actually be a Papercrete making demo! ( without the cement)

Shows HOW all sorts of recycled paper/newspaper/mags are turned into
pulp-- vey much like papercrete

Charmaine Taylor Publishing
STOREWIDE SALE on Books & Videos

www.dirtcheapbuilder.com
Tel: 1-707-441-1632 PST Eureka, Calif.

Wednesday, November 28, 2007

Re: [papercreters] First time P-crete results, Pt I

There was an article in the Stolsberg book about a woman using a string trimmer to shred the paper. I don't know if this book is still available. Charmaine could you let us know?



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Re: [papercreters] First time P-crete results, Pt I

roughly 10 pounds

Spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net> wrote:

How much does two gallons of dry portland cement weigh?
       Spaceman

All opinions expressed or implied
are subject to change without notice
upon receipt of new facts.




Curtis Stewart wrote:
About 2 gallon s dry

"David-\"The Hern\"" <jerrydave1@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
Howdy all, this weekend was our first try at PC.

Sat I set a buch of torn stuff into wheelbarrow and added water.

Kept turning and tearing some, but carboard, coateds,a dn strips of
newsprint werent pulping apart.

LSS, I used a 4 stroke string trimmer with approx 2 inhces line
sticking out to finish pulping. Now have a wheelbarrow almost full
to the top with oatmeal-ish pulp.

I have a 60 pound cement, do you all think its enough for a
contractor wheel barrow full to top with pulp?

Planning to pour after work sometime this weeek, or Sunday if can tdo
after work. Sat is not an open day for us this week.

I have a 2 ft by 4 ft frame built, and will make another before I mix
and dispense. Using steel poultry netting as reinforcement.

Wish us luck, and let me know how much cement I should addd to pulp?

Thanks, Dave



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Re: [papercreters] First time P-crete results, Pt I

From: Spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net>


>Nice, haven't heard of anyone mixing with a string trimmer before, you are exploring new >territory!

That sounds terribly messy. How'd it work out? Was it difficult to clean up the trimmer afterwards?

If that works well it could be a boon for experimentation, since a lot more people have a string trimmer then other more pricey and specialized implements.

Greg


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Re: [papercreters] First time P-crete results, Pt I

How much does two gallons of dry portland cement weigh?

        Spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new facts.   


Curtis Stewart wrote:
About 2 gallon s dry

"David-\"The Hern\"" <jerrydave1@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
Howdy all, this weekend was our first try at PC.

Sat I set a buch of torn stuff into wheelbarrow and added water.

Kept turning and tearing some, but carboard, coateds,a dn strips of
newsprint werent pulping apart.

LSS, I used a 4 stroke string trimmer with approx 2 inhces line
sticking out to finish pulping. Now have a wheelbarrow almost full
to the top with oatmeal-ish pulp.

I have a 60 pound cement, do you all think its enough for a
contractor wheel barrow full to top with pulp?

Planning to pour after work sometime this weeek, or Sunday if can tdo
after work. Sat is not an open day for us this week.

I have a 2 ft by 4 ft frame built, and will make another before I mix
and dispense. Using steel poultry netting as reinforcement.

Wish us luck, and let me know how much cement I should addd to pulp?

Thanks, Dave



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Re: [papercreters] First time P-crete results, Pt I

Nice, haven't heard of anyone mixing with a string trimmer before, you are exploring new territory!

60 pounds into a wheelbarrow is a lot of portland cement. That will give you heavy and very strong pc. You might want to divide the pulp into several smaller containers and use varying amounts of cement to see what you want your final mix to be. You can make one or two smaller forms, and can remove the form within a few minutes after pouring. Be sure to provide drainage, like a sand bed or something similar.

Better to "waste" a little time now with experimenting than to commit to a mix that you might not like in the end. I have had success with ratios from 1:10 portland to paper, all the way to 1:1 portland to paper. The 1:10 is a lot cheaper and great for blocks and infill applications. The 1:1 rings like a bell when you knock on it and is very hard.

Unless you are making very large structural panels, you'll find that the chicken wire is just not necessary. The paper fibers are all the reinforcement you need in most cases. I commonly cast 3 1/2' triangles using only paper, borax, and cement, without any dirt or reinforcement. These work well, even hold some snow load.


        Spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new facts.  


David-"The Hern" wrote:
Howdy all, this weekend was our first try at PC.  Sat I set a buch of torn stuff into wheelbarrow and added water.  Kept turning and tearing some, but carboard, coateds,a dn strips of  newsprint werent pulping apart.  LSS, I used a 4 stroke string trimmer with approx 2 inhces line  sticking out to finish pulping.  Now have a wheelbarrow almost full  to the top with oatmeal-ish pulp.    I have a 60 pound cement, do you all think its enough for a  contractor wheel barrow full to top with pulp?  Planning to pour after work sometime this weeek, or Sunday if can tdo  after work.  Sat is not an open day for us this week.  I have a 2 ft by 4 ft frame built, and will make another before I mix  and dispense.  Using steel poultry netting as reinforcement.  Wish us luck, and let me know how much cement I should addd to pulp?  Thanks, Dave     
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Re: [papercreters] First time P-crete results, Pt I

About 2 gallon s dry

"David-\"The Hern\"" <jerrydave1@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

Howdy all, this weekend was our first try at PC.

Sat I set a buch of torn stuff into wheelbarrow and added water.

Kept turning and tearing some, but carboard, coateds,a dn strips of
newsprint werent pulping apart.

LSS, I used a 4 stroke string trimmer with approx 2 inhces line
sticking out to finish pulping. Now have a wheelbarrow almost full
to the top with oatmeal-ish pulp.

I have a 60 pound cement, do you all think its enough for a
contractor wheel barrow full to top with pulp?

Planning to pour after work sometime this weeek, or Sunday if can tdo
after work. Sat is not an open day for us this week.

I have a 2 ft by 4 ft frame built, and will make another before I mix
and dispense. Using steel poultry netting as reinforcement.

Wish us luck, and let me know how much cement I should addd to pulp?

Thanks, Dave



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Re: [papercreters] Hello Everyone

Mikey ,
I enjoyed the video. Do you think adding more cement would make it better for screwing the panels together ?
Jonny
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 6:39 PM
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Hello Everyone

I've done 4' x 8' panels 4" thick as well as 6' x 6' panels. My mix
was not rich enough with cement, sand, lime to simple screw them
together. I used salt cedar for reinforcement and 25 gauge metal
framing studs to encase the panels after casting for additional
rigidity.

The biggest draw backs two panels for me were:

1. Time to dry

2. Two people required for tilt-up and placement of panels

3. Cost of screws used to hold metal framing studs to panels.

This brief youtube video might be helpful:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGhD1ESUxPo

-Mikey
http://greenacre-hotsprings.blogspot.com

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[papercreters] First time P-crete results, Pt I

Howdy all, this weekend was our first try at PC.

Sat I set a buch of torn stuff into wheelbarrow and added water.

Kept turning and tearing some, but carboard, coateds,a dn strips of
newsprint werent pulping apart.

LSS, I used a 4 stroke string trimmer with approx 2 inhces line
sticking out to finish pulping. Now have a wheelbarrow almost full
to the top with oatmeal-ish pulp.

I have a 60 pound cement, do you all think its enough for a
contractor wheel barrow full to top with pulp?

Planning to pour after work sometime this weeek, or Sunday if can tdo
after work. Sat is not an open day for us this week.

I have a 2 ft by 4 ft frame built, and will make another before I mix
and dispense. Using steel poultry netting as reinforcement.

Wish us luck, and let me know how much cement I should addd to pulp?

Thanks, Dave


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Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Re: [papercreters] Looking for used Tirolessa Sprayer

http://files.starship-enterprises.net/DCP_0025.jpg

Yeah, it works. I recommend a different/square hopper to facilitate dipping from a wheelbarrow rather than having a helper filling it.

        Spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new facts.  


Greg House wrote:
 Build yourself a Spaceman Sprayer! Inexpensive and apparently effective.  http://www.starship-enterprises.net/Papercrete/Sprayer/Index.html  Greg     
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Re: [papercreters] Looking for used Tirolessa Sprayer

From: Robert & Connie <babalubird@tx.rr.com>

>We would like to buy a used Tirolessa Sprayer rather than pay the full

>retail.

Build yourself a Spaceman Sprayer! Inexpensive and apparently effective.

http://www.starship-enterprises.net/Papercrete/Sprayer/Index.html

Greg


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Re: [papercreters] Paper Mill Equipment or Machine for Recycling

There are other types of mixers, the one I sent is the one I have the most experience with. Several people have good success using power spray washers to pulp the paper, and I plan to start using that method soon. An example of a power spray washer can be found at
 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95618 or here if that link is broken.

        Spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new facts.  


Esa Saputra wrote:
thank you for your information. so far i can update my report. i admit this is difficult for me. i have no background for paper recycling. is there any besides the mixer?

----- Original Message ----
From: Spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 1:23:57 PM
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Paper Mill Equipment or Machine for Recycling

http://www.starship -enterprises. net/Papercrete/ Mixer/

       Spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new facts.    

saputraesa wrote:
I am an architecture researcher and practice in Indonesia. I am doing  research for designing Paper Recycling Plant/Mill. Does anyone have  collection of image and spesification sheets about the equipment for  each recycling process? I am so grateful for those can help me.  Regards.      



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Monday, November 26, 2007

Re: [papercreters] Paper Mill Equipment or Machine for Recycling

thank you for your information. so far i can update my report. i admit this is difficult for me. i have no background for paper recycling. is there any besides the mixer?

----- Original Message ----
From: Spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 1:23:57 PM
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Paper Mill Equipment or Machine for Recycling

http://www.starship -enterprises. net/Papercrete/ Mixer/

       Spaceman

All opinions expressed or implied
are subject to change without notice
upon receipt of new facts.


saputraesa wrote:
I am an architecture researcher and practice in Indonesia. I am doing 
research for designing Paper Recycling Plant/Mill. Does anyone have
collection of image and spesification sheets about the equipment for
each recycling process? I am so grateful for those can help me.

Regards.






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[papercreters] Silty Sand

I was wondering if silty sand and cement might be a better fire retardant
than masonry sand, and cement when making papercrete.
Has anyone experimented around with this? I'm also wondering how it might
affect strength and R value.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
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Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.7/1152 - Release Date: 11/26/2007
10:50 AM


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RE: [papercreters] Looking for used Tirolessa Sprayer

Contact Nolan

 

http://mortarsprayer.stores.yahoo.net/

 

Nolan knows.

He often has other sprayers as well, or knows where to get them.

janosh

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RE: [papercreters] Looking for used Tirolessa Sprayer

 

Ferrocement Historical Archives 1999-2005


[Ferro Cement] Re: tyrolessa sprayer for sale - used once


·  From: GObug@aol.com

·  Date:2003-05-20





Dear friends,
     I finally used the tyrolessa sprayer that I bought in late December. I sprayed cement on 2 "test rocks."
     The f-rock 1 armature was:
          1 layer of expanded metal,
          1 layer of welded rod - 6" x 6"
          3 layers of chicken wire.
     F-rock 2 armature was 2 layers of expanded metal. All metal was galvanized.
     The cement mix was:
          2 parts portland
          1 part fly ash
          3 parts coal slag
          9 parts perlite

It was basically a failure, but I learned a lot.

     I had 2 air compressors hooked together - 90 gallons, 25 pounds pressure. I don't think the extra compressor was necessary. More pressure didn't work well.
     When the cement was too dry, it didn't spray well, when it was too wet it didn't stick well.
     The cement mixture was weird. It looked and felt like ceiling texture.
     The cement spray did not penetrate well - too many layers. There was some penetration, but the build up on the outside surface happened before the inside layers were coated. I didn't try to vibrate or hand parge.

     I used some of the cement to make a table top. The table top was made from a discarded base drum rim and a welded steel tripod  for legs. I put 1 layer of exp. metal, 1 layer of 6x6 welded wire, and one layer of 1/4" hardware cloth inside the rim. I poured the top upside down on a piece of glass. I used windex for a release (didn't work well). The top is 1 1/2" thick.
    
     I located a grout pump and bought it.   Its a Moyno style and it has a sprayer with multiple nozzles. The man that sold it to me it selling his stucco and plastering business and equipment after 60 years in Denver. He said "you cant have a dummy at this machine, it doesnt run itself." His son showed us how to adjust the spray, speed, and mix to get different textures. Neither had heard of the Irons laminating technique.

     Since I bought this pump/sprayer I do not need the tyrolessa. I will sell it and ship it to anyone interested for $150.

     Future reports coming soon.
Gary


 


From: papercreters@yahoogroups.com [mailto:papercreters@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Robert & Connie
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 5:20 PM
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [papercreters] Looking for used Tirolessa Sprayer

 

We would like to buy a used Tirolessa Sprayer rather than pay the full
retail. I know someone here had one for sale once. I'm sure that one
is gone but I thought it was worth a shot to see if there might be
another floating around or if someone can refer us to such a source.

Thanks.

Update! My Hubby found a wonderful buy on a powerful compressor. We
are ready to begin some serious experimenting on building small
structures.

Our 10" wall holding the gravel in the horse barn has held up pretty
well through one heck of two days of Texas torrential rains. In all
fairness though, it hasn't had its 45 days to cure or had the molds
removed yet.

Connie

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[papercreters] Looking for used Tirolessa Sprayer

We would like to buy a used Tirolessa Sprayer rather than pay the full
retail. I know someone here had one for sale once. I'm sure that one
is gone but I thought it was worth a shot to see if there might be
another floating around or if someone can refer us to such a source.

Thanks.

Update! My Hubby found a wonderful buy on a powerful compressor. We
are ready to begin some serious experimenting on building small
structures.

Our 10" wall holding the gravel in the horse barn has held up pretty
well through one heck of two days of Texas torrential rains. In all
fairness though, it hasn't had its 45 days to cure or had the molds
removed yet.

Connie


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[papercreters] Re: Hello Everyone

Thanks for the reply. Thats a good tip on adding color.

Jonny
>
> I don't see why not. If you need some color (green / brown / grey),
> just swirl in cement coloring after it is in the mold.
>
> - Ernie
>



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Re: [papercreters] Hello Everyone

I've done 4' x 8' panels 4" thick as well as 6' x 6' panels. My mix
was not rich enough with cement, sand, lime to simple screw them
together. I used salt cedar for reinforcement and 25 gauge metal
framing studs to encase the panels after casting for additional
rigidity.

The biggest draw backs two panels for me were:

1. Time to dry

2. Two people required for tilt-up and placement of panels

3. Cost of screws used to hold metal framing studs to panels.

This brief youtube video might be helpful:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGhD1ESUxPo

-Mikey
http://greenacre-hotsprings.blogspot.com



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