You are probably talking about the old method of treatment.
Neal
----- Original Message -----
From: "countryatheartok" <criswells.ok@sbcglobal.net>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 5, 2009 10:14:59 AM GMT -07:00 Chihuahua / La Paz / Mazatlan
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Hurricane straps was: Gathering Picture question
Termites will not eat treated lumber, you can bury it in the ground and
come back 20 or 50 years later and it will be untouched by termites or
wood rot.
How do you attach your ceiling joist/rafters to your building? Do you
build Gable roofs, Hip Roofs or flat roofs?
Bob the builder
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Garth & Kim Travis <gartht@...>
wrote:
>
> Greetings,
>
> I bought a bunch of aircraft cable from American Science and Surplus a
> few years ago, much cheaper than the cost of rebar. I have used rebar,
> but personally, I find it much harder to work with. As for attaching,
> sorry, but we don't use a top plate, it is just something for the
> termites to eat. We never use trusses. All ceilings on my buildings
> are solid, no air space allowed for condensation problems to happen.
We
> have found we do better in our climate building this way. Mold and
> mildew are our number one problem in housing. On large buildings, we
do
> tie down all the way around the building, not just the the ends, but
> then I have porches all the way around the house.
>
> Bright Blessings,
> Kim
>
>
>
> countryatheartok wrote:
> > The same results can be accomplished using four foot 3/8 rebar
> > embedded in the concrete slab, placed no less than 12" from each
corner
> > and 4' OC (on center) in all the exterior walls. One course before
the
> > four foot height is achieved, simply weld or shepard hook another 4
foot
> > piece and continue pouring. Once the wall height is achieved weld or
> > shepard hook a 1/2" "J" bolt on to each rebar, pour the last row and
> > drill the holes for the "J" bolts in the treated 2"x12" top plate,
then
> > install the top plate flush to the outside of the wall. When you
install
> > your trusses install the hurricane straps like Judith has in her
> > concrete corner blocks. Two per truss (one on each end) is usually
> > enough, some times I use two on each end as an extra measure if the
site
> > is extremely windy. They are not real expensive and even if they
were
> > it's good insurance to keep your roof from blowing off.
> >
> > Bob the builder
> >
> >
> > --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Garth & Kim Travis gartht@
> > wrote:
> >
> >> Greetings,
> >>
> >> I do live in hurricane country, we also get winds of 90+ mph with
> >>
> > gusts
> >
> >> of 130+ several times a year. Keeping the roof on the buildings is
a
> >> challenge. We have decided that all buildings have aircraft cables
> >>
> > that
> >
> >> are attached in the concrete foundation. They then are left in the
> >>
> > wall
> >
> >> as it is built, being pulled up as each course of fidobe goes in.
They
> >> are then attached securely to the roof rafters, to hold the roof on
in
> >> high winds.
> >>
> >> Bright Blessings,
> >> Kim
> >>
> >> countryatheartok wrote:
> >>
> >>> Hurrican Straps
> >>>
> >>> So us dummies can understand what you guys are doing. What are the
> >>> hurricane straps for? What are they embedded in, papercrete or
> >>> concrete? Did you screw the 2x4's to them? Or are they just for
> >>> alignment? If it's papercrete how long did it have to set before
it
> >>> was strong enough to hold the straps?
> >>>
> >>> Thanks
> >>>
> >>> Bob the builder
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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