Connie:
I have to look at the signature line to know who to address this to..
usually it's Robert's posts I am responding to.
There will be a trench beneath the bale wall..... (shallow) with RR tie
cribbing from used ties. The cribbing is the trench wall, and will
project above ground level a bit. The space between the ties will be
filled with gravel, and the bales will rest on this. The ties will be
about half under the bale, and I am undecided as to how I am going to
flash the works to shed any water that runs down the wall surface. The
initial "stucco" will probably go straight down to the tie, and I may
simply screw a piece of wood in on top of the tie to give a beveled
surface to carry water out and over the edge of the tie.... water is not
a real problem here, and with the long overhangs I plan it shouldn't
make much of a difference. A few spikes driven into the tie and some
creative work with very stiff cement mix would take care of running the
water off. Whatever I use MUST be solid...... I refuse to create
runways for critters..... If there is an open space, they will figure
out how to get in.
Needless to say the inner piece does not present the same problems, and
I may use the modern (and ineffective) green treated material there for
reasons of odor. Outside I want good old creosote!
My bale structure will be firmly tied to the pole structure at at least
two points, so it is not entirely "non-load-bearing"
Howard
Robert & Connie wrote:
> You caught my interest when you said "pole-barn" construction. Are
> you going to suspend the bales and papercrete on the pole structure
> OFF THE GROUND (?) or do you plan to construct some type of
> supporting FOUNDATION between the poles.
>
> I am MOST interested because this is our choice, unless we learn
> better, in construction methods because we wish to avoid the cost of
> a concrete contractor, excavation, pad site prep, etc. We also have
> serious problems w/foundation cracking in this crazy soil we have
> here.
>
> What's your game plan???? Please share and keep me informed.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Connie
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Stone Tool <owly@...> wrote:
>> As things stand here, I expect to be getting a very late
> start on my
>> project...... but that is better as the climate is better for this
> kind
>> of work in the fall here....... we had an incredibly wet start.
>>
>> My ultimate choice of construction methods for reasons of
> practicality,
>> and taking into account Bob Merrill's always sound advice will end
> up
>> being strawbale construction with gunned on PC. The bale walls
> will
>> NOT be load bearing in the conventional sense....... essentially it
> will
>> be a pole barn construction with bales stabilizing things rather
> than
>> the usual sheet metal. ]
>>
>> I will end up gunning the PC onto the bales..... using the
> mix I've
>> dubbed "stickystucco" and either a tyrolessa, or a makeshift
> shotcrete
>> system...... there's a lotta footage here so I would prefer to gun
> it
>> rather than spray it.
>>
>> I anticipate that I will be running up to the proverbial 11th
> hour, and
>> shooting PC at a time when freezing at night is a real
>> possibility........ I actually is almost any time of year here,
> though
>> July and August are pretty safe as a rule....... Experience shows
> that
>> freezing will occur unpredictably at this elevation almost any
> other
>> time. I am needless to say, concerned about freezing of my wall
>> coating, and how sensitive PC is to freezing during the setup
> period.
>> My assumption is that as it is primarily fiber, and has a some give
> to
>> it, the problems associated with conventional stucco....
> particularly
>> slow setting lime stucco will not be nearly so pronounced. In any
>> case, the priorities will be to get the walls and roof up and
> covered on
>> the outside....... Plastic tarps may be desirable for nighttime
>> protection for a few days, and the coating will be applied in
> relatively
>> light coats, perhaps stopping for the season if needed, after the
> first
>> coat or second. I envision a build up of about 3 layers to a
> thickness
>> of 1.5-2". I can close the building in and work inside anytime.
>>
>> Any thoughts on this program?
>>
>> Howard
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
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