Re: [papercreters] Re: Question about the ceramicrete.

hi, 

i have no idea why the text is not readable- my laptop has a dodgy cursor and it is a struggle

to write coherently but by the time i send, from my end it looks ok-

i am not copying/pasting, just replying to the email previous.

sorry about that- i am getting a new laptop, hopefully it will solve the problem?

cheers, eo

On Tue, Feb 5, 2013 at 9:44 AM, charlieitaly <charlie@signaldesign.net> wrote:

 

Hey Eo,

Your responses seem well thought out and sensible and I'd really like to read them. But it looks like you're copying and pasting from an email or some strange text editor that is hard-coding line breaks in odd places.

Any chance you can edit your posts so they come in as regular paragraphs and sentences?

Thanks,

Charlie Magee

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, eo greensticks wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> you cannot combine Magnesium phosphate cement with portlkand as the
> phosphate doesn't 'get along' with
>

> lime. you cab substitute a different sort of magnesium, MgO that is the *
> reactive* sort

>
> ( it has a cow on the bag and is sold throo agricultural supplies dead

> burned MgO is* not* reactive)

>
> for part of the portland but
>
> this will not make a chemically bonded ceramic, will only make the cement
> stronger as i understand- see TecEco's website
>
> where they discuss this at length.
>
> Magnesium phosphate cement is marketed as Granicrete in the USA and the
> company runs training sessions in how to use it
>
> but i haven't been able to get any to try as i live in Tasmania.
>
> i have at last found a supplier for the fine ground dead burned MagO- they
> are in Queensland but at $250 for 40k and a $400 freight
>
> cost to get ti to Tas,it isn't looking good yet!
>
> At this stage i am thinking it would be best as thin shell walls rendered
> with papercrete to get to the R value
>
> thickness or else as a render over regular papercretewalls to keep the
> water off it? .
>
> If it could be worked out, i doubt an insect could eat papercrete if it was

> made with* successful *chemically bonded ceramic?
>
> It seems that the dead burned MgO *must* be fine ground- a fellow called

> Leo Freeman has some Utube videos of experiments
>
> where he tries to make Ceramicrete (MgPO4 concrete) with what looks a
> coarse sand textured dead burned MgO and it doesn't
>
> really work (that is, the one test that set up was easily marked and
> easily broken...) but maybe he has done some further
>
> experimentation by now and achieved a better result? He is using properly
> weighed samples- the MgO must be in the right
>
> proportion to the PO4 with the right amount of water for the reaction to
> occurr
>
> AND i noticed in the link to
>
> Argonne's tests, they reckon it must be stirred for an HOUR (don't even
> know if my drill battery lasts an hour?)
>
> they were using it to patch holes in a runway and on a boatramp, also
> making cast beams i think
>
> but they had one episode where the stuff 'flash set' for some reason so i
> wouldn't use it in a mixer just in case.
>
> One part worried me a little, where they said they used vinegar (acetic
> acid) to clean the MgPO4 off their tools-
>
> i would prefer a finished result that was vinegar proof somehow!
>
> Charmaine says Michael Collins used in on burlap spraying or brooming on
> the slurry but how it didn't set up and ruin the sprayer is
>
> not clear.
>
> I think it is worth exploring because, as you say, it would overcome some
> of the limitations of papercrete.
>
> We get alot of rain where i live so susceptibility to water is an issue.
>
> I have tried some papercrete plant pots with portland and reactive MgO (the
> kind with the cow on the bag)
>
> at a ratio of 2 parts PC to 1 part MgO for the cement
>
> part of the papercrete mix.
>
> they took quite some time to achieve a strong surface but have weathered
> well (they are 2 years old now)
>
> As they are plant pots, they are always wet-but i have not been able to
> draw any conclusion about whether
>
> the MgO improved the papercrete or not....
>
> With even a small proportion of MgO in concrete, a slab will not drain the
> charge from a battery like a straight portland slab would-
>
> i just found that-it has different electrical conduction properties.
>
> How i wonder what the recipe was for the papercrete walls built in the
> humid south of the US which were unprotected and showed
>
> no sign of deterioration
>
> after many years?
>

> cheers, eo
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 4:47 PM, babalubird wrote:
>
> > **

> >
> >
> > Sounds like it could be an answer to some of the papercrete problems.
> > Fascinating!
> >
> > Since you can mix the magnesium-based cement with fiber, then can I assume
> > you could just substitute this for the little bit of portland in the
> > papercrete mix? Would you then wind up with a stronger, water-resistant
> > material as described for the nornal ceramicrete?
> >
> > Would you still need the sand and lime in the mix or would just a large
> > amount of paper and a minimum amount of the Mg cement give a strong,
> > thinner-walled, insect-proof material?
> >
> > Has anyone yet found a source of this magnesium concrete for us average
> > Joe's and Jill's?
> >

> > Thanks.
> >
> > Connie
> >
> >
> >
>

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