[papercreters] Re: just wondering

I seem to recall one of our members wrote a very very detailed and wordy explanation related to just this very topic.

If you can tolerate the long winded extreme detail of the post, perhaps you might get some useful insights from it.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/message/8083

Gee... I wonder who that blabbermouth was?

Oh yea...(hangs head in shame)
It was me. (Oh the HUMANITY!!!)



If you want a few laughs at my expense, look underneath that post at some of the responses where people made fun of my big dissertation.

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Alan <rustaholic777@...> wrote:
>
> That is exciting, Spaceman.
> When I get my mixer built I think 24" walls would be great for my garden shed out back.
> R-72 in Michigan,,,,,,, Walls and Roof.
> Good thing papercrete isn't too heavy.
> I am thinking about a wood framed roof with 24" papercrete panels topped with a metal roof.
> A poured concrete floor and stub walls to keep the papercrete up off the ground.
>  
> Alan in Michigan
>
>
> --- On Sun, 2/17/13, spaceman <Spaceman@...> wrote:
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> From: spaceman <Spaceman@...>
> Subject: Re: [papercreters] Re: just wondering
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sunday, February 17, 2013, 9:01 PM
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> With papercrete generally running in the range of R2.5-R3 per inch of thickness, just take your desired R factor and divide by 2.5. Wall thickness would be different in Mississippi vs Montana. Of course you can always go for super insulation. I'm in an area where R18 is recommended but I make walls 12" thick for about R36.
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> spaceman
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> On 2/16/2013 9:11 PM, seniorfinancialplanningins wrote:
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> I live in the northern MS area, just wondering...how thick do the walls need to be?
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> From: eo greensticks <eogreensticks@...>
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 3:50 AM
> Subject: Re: [papercreters] Re: just wondering
>
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>  
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> i am applying papercrete to a chicken wire structure. MgO on its own could possibly be blown from
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> a shop vac altho i wouldn't have a clue how one would go about this- but once you add the phosphate,
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> IF the right proportions of teh right materials are used, the chances of it setting up and ruining the shop vac are
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> large. those Argonne guys had a mix 'flash set'- what made it do this wasn;t clear though- it is a quick window
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> of opportunity- even with borax at 16% by weight the working time is only about a half an hour from memory.
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> Paint roller i have not tried-i think it still would only get the surface and not the under layers of wire (minimum 3 layers) same as the
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> brush.. I like the idea that leaving the wire out to oxidize but i am not sure how i will know when it has done this?
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> I started today on a new sculpture, using standard ferrocement, 3 to 1 sand to white portland with bondcrete in-
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> i will put paper pulp in the mix when i get above the ' splash line'-  papercrete is SO much nicer to work with and easier to sculpt-
> .
> less like making 'sand castles' !
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> On Tue, Feb 12, 2013 at 12:16 AM, JayH <slurryguy@...> wrote:
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> If I were wanting to paint or coat chicken wire with a liquid coating, I would think it would be pretty difficult to beat the simple technology of a paint roller.
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> Sometimes keeping it simple is the best most efficient solution.
> --- In mailto:papercreters%40yahoogroups.com, eo greensticks wrote: > > Hi, > > i have tried using spray paint to coat the armature prior to concreting but > not hugely successful- >
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2899 / Virus Database: 2639/6102 - Release Date: 02/13/13
>




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