Tuesday, November 30, 2010

[papercreters] Re: exterior waterproofing for papercrete -Rub-r-slate

Thanks for the interesting article there.

I cant help but think its worth mentioning that todays AEs are all acidic, some very strongly so, whereas in the 20s they were alkaline. (IIRC cationic versus anionic). What effect this has on the paper I dont know, I suspect there may be considerable long term benefit in picking the least acidic emulsion.


NT

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Charmaine Taylor <dirtcheapbuilderbooks@...> wrote:
>
> exterior waterproofing for papercrete
> wall<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/message/10272;_ylc=X3oDMTJzMWRzOWwzBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzE5NTU5NDk4BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA0MTk5MgRtc2dJZAMxMDI3MgRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdm1zZwRzdGltZQMxMjkxMTA2NTA5>Posted
> by: "eogreensticks"
> i think water may be wicking throo my papercrete wall where it is exposed to
> easterly rain conditions-
>
>
> Hi Eo-- you can certainly mix latex paint with sand and cement to paint it
> over the papercrete. Inventor Eric Patterson did this on his papercrete
> privacy wall in NM.
>
> Latex paint & cement has been used smeared into old carpet fibers to make a
> waterproof roof. attached is a link of a carpet with cement/latex base,
> with a dark rub-r-slate over the shed roof ( done by Michael Collins..he
> built this entire shed with just 5' long pieces of wood he got free, sort of
> a "pick up sticks" layout of attachment- on the inside it looks like a
> geodesic dome. http://www.dirtcheapbuilder.com/frshfrruwoca.html (a wicker
> basket is used upside down at the roof pinnacle) Cement pigments were
> drizzled down the walls, and a dragpon was sculpted on one of the roof
> rafters.
>
> http://www.dirtcheapbuilder.com/cdkinububorl.html
> http://www.dirtcheapbuilder.com/frestufwitor.html < bunch of free articles
>
> You an also use a RUB-R-SLATE recipe ( on the CD you got from me) with
> taking clay, asphalt emulsion and sand and make a thicker "paint" to coat
> the walls with. be sure they are dried out first, before doing this. for
> the rest of you here is an info sheet below on using Jack Bay's
> Rub-R-Slate
>
> Spaceman took this RRS recipe a few years ago and coated some triangles of
> papercrete, and tossed them into a water tank.. they float, and are durable.
> --
> Charmaine Taylor Publishing
> www.papercrete.com
> www.dirtcheapbuilder.com
>
> Rub-R-Slate mix- from a series of Lessons
>
> A low cost, "green" building formula created by Jack Bays in the 1920's.
>
> Basic Asphalt Emulsion Information-for Rub-R-Slate use.
>
> In the 1920s Jack Bays developed a material he called Rub-R-Slate, which he
> used as a
>
> cushion flooring for factory workers. The information here is based on his
> basic formulas
>
> of clay, shredded cardboard and AE. I substitute shredded office paper and a
> commercial
>
> newspaper cellulose blown insulation product, (Cocoon brand) and/or sawdust.
> I like the
>
> sawdust best, and it is free and easily available where I live, in Northern
> California. Fine
>
> chopped straw, dry chopped shrubs can also be used, in fact, any dry
> organic, even
>
> seaweed, and grasses can be used.
>
> This is extra information that may help you with your experiments with
> papercrete and
>
> earthen floors or stabilized wall plasters.
>
> Asphalt Emulsion (AE) is a pudding-like additive to adobe and clay that will
> help
>
> waterproof it and stabilize the material. Is is available in 1-5 gallon
> cans, and drums, in a
>
> building supply store. Common brands are Henry 107, Black Jack, and Fortress
> to name
>
> three. Look in the roofing materials department, or in cellar and basement
> products area,
>
> where water proofing products are sold.
>
> Modern AE is a non-toxic, non off-gassing, tar-like substance, mixed with
> bentonite clay
>
> and water in stable suspension. AE is used for roofing and road/driveway
> coating. When
>
> added in small percentage to clay (5%-30%) it keeps clay from dissolving in
> rain or
>
> water. It is an ideal material for use in plasters placed around windows and
> doors for
>
> moisture protection/water intrusion.
>
> You can PAINT and plaster over an AE mix too.
>
> Using AE is not new, in the SW states it has been used for adobe houses for
> centuries,
>
> and "bitumen" has been used all over the world, especially the Middle East
> to protect
>
> clay bricks. It is painted on the base of buildings or added to adobes.
>
>
> I have made several varieties of mixes and I like the clay-Redwood
> sawdust-Asphalt
>
> Emulsion-sand mix the best for a very smooth plaster, and for flooring.
> Asphalt Emulsion
>
> has a "road tar" smell upon opening the can, but this dissipates in the mix
> and is not
>
> present when dry.
>
> Visit the website for the AE Mfg. Assoc.: http://www.aema.org/ for more
> information*.*
>
> Wipe down drips of excess with a wet cloth before it dries on your skin,
> tools, bowls.
>
> AE sticks tenaciously! but you can keep a bucket of water near and dunk
> tools, gloves,
>
> mixer blades in to keep AE from setting up.
>
>
> Keep the can lid on as AE evaporates in open air. Brand names I have used
> are: Henry
>
> 107, and Black Jack. Other brands can be found in hardware & DIY stores.
>
> Mix using same size bowls, cans, or buckets for volume measuring, add the AE
> last, or
>
> right before you plan to use it. Use clean water, paper, and clay with no
> leaves, twigs
>
> etc. to avoid harboring bacteria.
>
> Soft clay is simply clay sitting in water for a period of time to become
> soft, by lifting it
>
> out of the bucket with a kitchen colander or strainer you are getting clay
> and water in
>
> the right weight for experimenting.
>
> Apply the mix thinly onto cardboard, heavy paper, canvas to make test mixes.
> Filling a
>
> deep pan or other form takes far too long for the mix to dry, and there is
> shrinkage. Jack
>
> Bays recommended thin coats applied over each other to build up floors, etc.
>
>
> I have found this material is almost waterproof, I placed thin "RRS cookies"
> in water
>
> for 24 hours, and when broken open the insides were dry. This may make it an
> ideal
>
> plaster for absorbent materials like straw bales, papercrete, unstabilized
> adobes, etc.
>
> Conversely a thick coating over every surface inch may also mean no
> breathing of the
>
> surface wall either. This could be a problem for trapped moisture in organic
> materials.
>
> Mixing AE and clay with a variety of materials such as sawdust,
> cross-shredded paper,
>
> cellulose insulation, and adding sand makes a very nice mix that trowels
> easily, and is a
>
> pleasure to work with.
>
> Like papercrete materials this mix can also have cement in it Try
>
> adding AE to papercrete formulas after draining the water out (basic
> papercrete is a very
>
> wet mix that sheds excess water. Pre-drain, then try mixing AE in.
>
> Sand is recommended in making stabilized clay-adobes when using AE, in
> traditional
>
> use.
>
> Don't make samples unless the weather is dry.
>
> The best companion book for these formulas is Earth Brick Construction by
> Hubbell,
>
> #2025--$16.00, extensive AE information: mixing, testing, use is given.
>
>
> Essentially Rub-R-Slate and its other formula names are a highly stabilized
>
> papercrete mix. Heavy weight building paper-tar paper- is asphalt embedded.
> It might
>
> be possible to use this as a substrate to apply Rub-R-Slate mixes. ( I use
> heavy cardboard,
>
> or recycled pressed paper display boards.) Many modern products did not
> exist in Bay's
>
> time, so combine the best of both his recipes and new resources. Please let
> me know of
>
> your success and application use of these formulas.
>
> Caveat: Proceed with caution in mixing/building as with any materials and
> use common
>
> sense.
>
> Wear gloves
>


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Re: [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian



Here is a free converter that is very easy to use and will convert just about anything.
 
 
Dan
 
 
 
 
* voted Obama?
Embarrassed yet? *
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2010 8:30 AM
Subject: RE: [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian

 

My metric conversion skills are not too good, so could someone convert the recipe for me. Using 5 gallons of water instead of litres and going from there?

--- On Tue, 11/30/10, JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@hotmail.com> wrote:

From: JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian
To: "papercreters papercreters" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 30, 2010, 7:16 AM

 
I am also wondering what this is used for. I have been negotiating with someone about taking own a large metal building so I could use it for porch roofs but had not heard back from the guy until yesteray. So I thought I would get an old billboard and paint it with something to stifffen it up. Is this the sort of thing you would do with the Hessian?




"If Tyranny and Oppression Come to this Land, it Will be in the Guise of Fighting a Foreign Enemy" - James Madison

Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith





To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: jeaflor@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 03:00:44 +0000
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian

 
How big of a building could you build with this? Could you use it as a waterproof coating for rammed earth, papercrete or strawbale?

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Wayne" <huon@...> wrote:
>
> After many weeks of painstaking research I have came across the recipe for
> Petrified Hessian as use here in Australia since the war and still used
> today, so I will print it here and appreciate any feedback, especially
> from anyone that tries it. I live in a very wet environment and will post
> feedback as to how it goes here.
>
> Wayne
>
> Petrified Hessian
>
> 5 liters water
> 5.5kg cement
> 900g lime
> 450g salt
> 225g alum
>
> Apply the mix immediately to the hessian with a stiff brush, first outside
> then inside. After the initial wetness goes but before the mix sets apply
> a second coat to the outside. When this final coat sets the material will
> be hard and strong. The mix should cover about 8m square. Keep the
> surface damp for 3 days by spraying it with water.
>




No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1170 / Virus Database: 426/3288 - Release Date: 11/29/10



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Re: [papercreters] exterior waterproofing for papercrete -Rub-r-slate



No, I just poured some asphalt emulsion into a bucket of slurry and cement mix, and then cast it into a panel. No coating, it was homogeneous.

The panel did float without absorbing any water. After eight hours or so I took it out of the water and set it out in the weather. As it weathered the black color faded. At last sight it was doing well, but it eventually disappeared. I suspect a helper tossed it into the mixer along with various pc scraps so it is probably somewhere in my domes now.  : )

AE could be just painted onto the surface of papercrete and would make it shed water. Eventually the coating would need to be renewed as the AE slowly washes away.

spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.  http://Starship-Enterprises.Net

On 11/30/2010 12:42 PM, Charmaine Taylor wrote:
[Attachment(s) from Charmaine Taylor included below]
Spaceman took this RRS recipe a few years ago  and coated some triangles of papercrete, and tossed them into a water tank.. they float, and are durable.
--
Charmaine Taylor Publishing
www.papercrete.com
www.dirtcheapbuilder.com



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[papercreters] exterior waterproofing for papercrete -Rub-r-slate [1 Attachment]

[Attachment(s) from Charmaine Taylor included below]

exterior waterproofing for papercrete wall

Posted by: "eogreensticks"  

i think water may be wicking throo my papercrete wall where it is exposed to easterly rain conditions-


Hi Eo-- you can certainly mix latex paint with sand and  cement to  paint it over the papercrete.  Inventor  Eric Patterson did this on his papercrete privacy wall in NM.  

Latex paint & cement has been used smeared into old carpet fibers to make a  waterproof roof.  attached is a link of a carpet with cement/latex base, with a dark rub-r-slate over the shed roof ( done by Michael Collins..he built this entire shed with just 5' long pieces of wood he got free, sort of a  "pick up sticks" layout of attachment- on the inside it looks like a geodesic dome.  http://www.dirtcheapbuilder.com/frshfrruwoca.html (a  wicker basket is used upside down at the roof pinnacle)   Cement pigments were drizzled down the walls, and a dragpon was sculpted on one of the roof rafters.


You an also use a RUB-R-SLATE recipe ( on the CD you got from me)  with  taking clay, asphalt emulsion and  sand and make a thicker "paint" to  coat the walls with.  be sure they are dried out first, before doing this.  for the rest of you here is  an info  sheet below on using  Jack Bay's Rub-R-Slate

Spaceman took this RRS recipe a few years ago  and coated some triangles of papercrete, and tossed them into a water tank.. they float, and are durable.
--
Charmaine Taylor Publishing
www.papercrete.com
www.dirtcheapbuilder.com

Rub-R-Slate mix- from a series of Lessons

A low cost, "green" building formula created by Jack Bays in the 1920's.

Basic Asphalt Emulsion Information-for Rub-R-Slate use.

In the 1920s Jack Bays developed a material he called Rub-R-Slate, which he used as a

cushion flooring for factory workers. The information here is based on his basic formulas

of clay, shredded cardboard and AE. I substitute shredded office paper and a commercial

newspaper cellulose blown insulation product, (Cocoon brand) and/or sawdust. I like the

sawdust best, and it is free and easily available where I live, in Northern California. Fine

chopped straw, dry chopped shrubs can also be used, in fact, any dry organic, even

seaweed, and grasses can be used.

This is extra information that may help you with your experiments with papercrete and

earthen floors or stabilized wall plasters.

Asphalt Emulsion (AE) is a pudding-like additive to adobe and clay that will help

waterproof it and stabilize the material. Is is available in 1-5 gallon cans, and drums, in a

building supply store. Common brands are Henry 107, Black Jack, and Fortress to name

three. Look in the roofing materials department, or in cellar and basement products area,

where water proofing products are sold.

Modern AE is a non-toxic, non off-gassing, tar-like substance, mixed with bentonite clay

and water in stable suspension. AE is used for roofing and road/driveway coating. When

added in small percentage to clay (5%-30%) it keeps clay from dissolving in rain or

water. It is an ideal material for use in plasters placed around windows and doors for

moisture protection/water intrusion.

You can PAINT and plaster over an AE mix too.

Using AE is not new, in the SW states it has been used for adobe houses for centuries,

and "bitumen" has been used all over the world, especially the Middle East to protect

clay bricks. It is painted on the base of buildings or added to adobes.


I have made several varieties of mixes and I like the clay-Redwood sawdust-Asphalt

Emulsion-sand mix the best for a very smooth plaster, and for flooring. Asphalt Emulsion

has a "road tar" smell upon opening the can, but this dissipates in the mix and is not

present when dry.

Visit the website for the AE Mfg. Assoc.: http://www.aema.org/ for more information.

Wipe down drips of excess with a wet cloth before it dries on your skin, tools, bowls.

AE sticks tenaciously! but you can keep a bucket of water near and dunk tools, gloves,

mixer blades in to keep AE from setting up.


Keep the can lid on as AE evaporates in open air. Brand names I have used are: Henry

107, and Black Jack. Other brands can be found in hardware & DIY stores.

Mix using same size bowls, cans, or buckets for volume measuring, add the AE last, or

right before you plan to use it. Use clean water, paper, and clay with no leaves, twigs

etc. to avoid harboring bacteria.

Soft clay is simply clay sitting in water for a period of time to become soft, by lifting it

out of the bucket with a kitchen colander or strainer you are getting clay and water in

the right weight for experimenting.

Apply the mix thinly onto cardboard, heavy paper, canvas to make test mixes. Filling a

deep pan or other form takes far too long for the mix to dry, and there is shrinkage. Jack

Bays recommended thin coats applied over each other to build up floors, etc.


I have found this material is almost waterproof, I placed thin "RRS cookies" in water

for 24 hours, and when broken open the insides were dry. This may make it an ideal

plaster for absorbent materials like straw bales, papercrete, unstabilized adobes, etc.

Conversely a thick coating over every surface inch may also mean no breathing of the

surface wall either. This could be a problem for trapped moisture in organic materials.

Mixing AE and clay with a variety of materials such as sawdust, cross-shredded paper,

cellulose insulation, and adding sand makes a very nice mix that trowels easily, and is a

pleasure to work with.

Like papercrete materials this mix can also have cement in it Try

adding AE to papercrete formulas after draining the water out (basic papercrete is a very

wet mix that sheds excess water. Pre-drain, then try mixing AE in.

Sand is recommended in making stabilized clay-adobes when using AE, in traditional

use.

Don't make samples unless the weather is dry.

The best companion book for these formulas is Earth Brick Construction by Hubbell,

#2025--$16.00, extensive AE information: mixing, testing, use is given.


Essentially Rub-R-Slate and its other formula names are a highly stabilized

papercrete mix. Heavy weight building paper-tar paper- is asphalt embedded. It might

be possible to use this as a substrate to apply Rub-R-Slate mixes. ( I use heavy cardboard,

or recycled pressed paper display boards.) Many modern products did not exist in Bay's

time, so combine the best of both his recipes and new resources. Please let me know of

your success and application use of these formulas.

Caveat: Proceed with caution in mixing/building as with any materials and use common

sense.

Wear gloves


Attachment(s) from Charmaine Taylor

1 of 1 Photo(s)


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[papercreters] good price for latex paint? FREE

http://www.darjit.com/how_to_mix_and_recipes
latex or acrylic paint can be used in papercrete.
you can get it free at your local hazardous waste facility.
good luck
sophia


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Re: [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian



Thanks for the conversion info. I think I'll stick to the small amount for experimenting. I am a member of the battery conversion forum and have bought a large amount of alum online so I have a supply of that. It would be prohibitivly expensive to buy the pickling variety in a grocery store. I am getting ready to resume testing on my PC coating mix of used vegetable (cooking) oil, lime and sand for a coating/sealer on the exterior of my PC blocks. I made some over a year ago and it has held up very well and sheds water readily. I didn't keep track of the mix ratio so this time I will be more scientific and do so. It would be a cheaper alternative to some of the other products tossed around on the site.

--- On Tue, 11/30/10, Spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net> wrote:

From: Spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net>
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, November 30, 2010, 9:55 AM

 
Alum can be bought in the spice dept of your local grocery store, or ordered online in bulk. The spicy version would be pretty expensive. It is actually aluminum sulfate when you go looking for it in bulk.

There is a source mentioned on the Battery Conversion yahoo list, so if anyone is interested I can forward that information.

From the description and what I know about aluminum and cement, this should set up pretty fast so the recipe with five gallons of water would be more suitable for several people working together, to get it on before it sets.
spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.  http://Starship-Enterprises.Net

On 11/30/2010 9:57 AM, Tom Hay wrote:
Here's the conversion.  (not exact but close enough - e.g. 1 pound = 453.59237 grams so 900 g = 1.984 lbs )
 
original metric to make an equal amount 5 gallons water to make 3.8 times as much
> 5 liters water
1.32 gal 5 gallons
> 5.5kg cement 12 lbs 2 oz 45.9 lbs
> 900g lime 2 lbs 7.6 lbs
> 450g salt 1 lb 3.8 lbs
> 225g alum 1/2 lb 1.9 lbs

Tom Hay, Ph.D.
A2B Research and Development, LLC
703/672-6033 (internet phone)
tomhay@verizon.net



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Re: [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian



Alum can be bought in the spice dept of your local grocery store, or ordered online in bulk. The spicy version would be pretty expensive. It is actually aluminum sulfate when you go looking for it in bulk.

There is a source mentioned on the Battery Conversion yahoo list, so if anyone is interested I can forward that information.

From the description and what I know about aluminum and cement, this should set up pretty fast so the recipe with five gallons of water would be more suitable for several people working together, to get it on before it sets.

spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.  http://Starship-Enterprises.Net

On 11/30/2010 9:57 AM, Tom Hay wrote:
Here's the conversion.  (not exact but close enough - e.g. 1 pound = 453.59237 grams so 900 g = 1.984 lbs )
 
original metric to make an equal amount 5 gallons water to make 3.8 times as much
> 5 liters water
1.32 gal 5 gallons
> 5.5kg cement 12 lbs 2 oz 45.9 lbs
> 900g lime 2 lbs 7.6 lbs
> 450g salt 1 lb 3.8 lbs
> 225g alum 1/2 lb 1.9 lbs

Tom Hay, Ph.D.
A2B Research and Development, LLC
703/672-6033 (internet phone)
tomhay@verizon.net


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Re : [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian



here is the metric conversion:

1.32 gallon water > 5 liters water
12.13 pounds cement > 5.5kg cement
1.98 pounds lime > 900g lime
0.99 pounds salt > 450g salt
0.50 pounds alum > 225g alum

phil




De : Donald Miller <donald1miller@yahoo.com>
À : papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Envoyé le : Mar 30 novembre 2010, 17h 30min 46s
Objet : RE: [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian

 

My metric conversion skills are not too good, so could someone convert the recipe for me. Using 5 gallons of water instead of litres and going from there?

--- On Tue, 11/30/10, JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@hotmail.com> wrote:

From: JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian
To: "papercreters papercreters" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 30, 2010, 7:16 AM

 
I am also wondering what this is used for. I have been negotiating with someone about taking own a large metal building so I could use it for porch roofs but had not heard back from the guy until yesteray. So I thought I would get an old billboard and paint it with something to stifffen it up. Is this the sort of thing you would do with the Hessian?




"If Tyranny and Oppression Come to this Land, it Will be in the Guise of Fighting a Foreign Enemy" - James Madison

Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith





To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: jeaflor@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 03:00:44 +0000
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian

 
How big of a building could you build with this? Could you use it as a waterproof coating for rammed earth, papercrete or strawbale?

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Wayne" <huon@...> wrote:
>
> After many weeks of painstaking research I have came across the recipe for
> Petrified Hessian as use here in Australia since the war and still used
> today, so I will print it here and appreciate any feedback, especially
> from anyone that tries it. I live in a very wet environment and will post
> feedback as to how it goes here.
>
> Wayne
>
> Petrified Hessian
>
> 5 liters water
> 5.5kg cement
> 900g lime
> 450g salt
> 225g alum
>
> Apply the mix immediately to the hessian with a stiff brush, first outside
> then inside. After the initial wetness goes but before the mix sets apply
> a second coat to the outside. When this final coat sets the material will
> be hard and strong. The mix should cover about 8m square. Keep the
> surface damp for 3 days by spraying it with water.
>






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Re: RE: [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian



Here's the conversion.  (not exact but close enough - e.g. 1 pound = 453.59237 grams so 900 g = 1.984 lbs )
 
original metric to make an equal amount 5 gallons water to make 3.8 times as much
> 5 liters water
1.32 gal 5 gallons
> 5.5kg cement 12 lbs 2 oz 45.9 lbs
> 900g lime 2 lbs 7.6 lbs
> 450g salt 1 lb 3.8 lbs
> 225g alum
1/2 lb 1.9 lbs

Tom Hay, Ph.D.
A2B Research and Development, LLC
703/672-6033 (internet phone)
tomhay@verizon.net

Nov 30, 2010 11:30:51 AM, papercreters@yahoogroups.com wrote:
 

My metric conversion skills are not too good, so could someone convert the recipe for me. Using 5 gallons of water instead of litres and going from there?

--- On Tue, 11/30/10, JUDITH WILLIAMS wrote:

From: JUDITH WILLIAMS
Subject: RE: [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian
To: "papercreters papercreters"
Date: Tuesday, November 30, 2010, 7:16 AM

 
I am also wondering what this is used for. I have been negotiating with someone about taking own a large metal building so I could use it for porch roofs but had not heard back from the guy until yesteray. So I thought I would get an old billboard and paint it with something to stifffen it up. Is this the sort of thing you would do with the Hessian?




"If Tyranny and Oppression Come to this Land, it Will be in the Guise of Fighting a Foreign Enemy" - James Madison

Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith





To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: jeaflor@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 03:00:44 +0000
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian

 
How big of a building could you build with this? Could you use it as a waterproof coating for rammed earth, papercrete or strawbale?

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Wayne" wrote:
>
> After many weeks of painstaking research I have came across the recipe for
> Petrified Hessian as use here in Australia since the war and still used
> today, so I will print it here and appreciate any feedback, especially
> from anyone that tries it. I live in a very wet environment and will post
> feedback as to how it goes here.
>
> Wayne
>
> Petrified Hessian
>
> 5 liters water
> 5.5kg cement
> 900g lime
> 450g salt
> 225g alum
>
> Apply the mix immediately to the hessian with a stiff brush, first outside
> then inside. After the initial wetness goes but before the mix sets apply
> a second coat to the outside. When this final coat sets the material will
> be hard and strong. The mix should cover about 8m square. Keep the
> surface damp for 3 days by spraying it with water.
>





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RE: [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian



My metric conversion skills are not too good, so could someone convert the recipe for me. Using 5 gallons of water instead of litres and going from there?

--- On Tue, 11/30/10, JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@hotmail.com> wrote:

From: JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian
To: "papercreters papercreters" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 30, 2010, 7:16 AM

 
I am also wondering what this is used for. I have been negotiating with someone about taking own a large metal building so I could use it for porch roofs but had not heard back from the guy until yesteray. So I thought I would get an old billboard and paint it with something to stifffen it up. Is this the sort of thing you would do with the Hessian?




"If Tyranny and Oppression Come to this Land, it Will be in the Guise of Fighting a Foreign Enemy" - James Madison

Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith





To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: jeaflor@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 03:00:44 +0000
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian

 
How big of a building could you build with this? Could you use it as a waterproof coating for rammed earth, papercrete or strawbale?

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Wayne" <huon@...> wrote:
>
> After many weeks of painstaking research I have came across the recipe for
> Petrified Hessian as use here in Australia since the war and still used
> today, so I will print it here and appreciate any feedback, especially
> from anyone that tries it. I live in a very wet environment and will post
> feedback as to how it goes here.
>
> Wayne
>
> Petrified Hessian
>
> 5 liters water
> 5.5kg cement
> 900g lime
> 450g salt
> 225g alum
>
> Apply the mix immediately to the hessian with a stiff brush, first outside
> then inside. After the initial wetness goes but before the mix sets apply
> a second coat to the outside. When this final coat sets the material will
> be hard and strong. The mix should cover about 8m square. Keep the
> surface damp for 3 days by spraying it with water.
>





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RE: [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian



I am also wondering what this is used for. I have been negotiating with someone about taking own a large metal building so I could use it for porch roofs but had not heard back from the guy until yesteray. So I thought I would get an old billboard and paint it with something to stifffen it up. Is this the sort of thing you would do with the Hessian?




"If Tyranny and Oppression Come to this Land, it Will be in the Guise of Fighting a Foreign Enemy" - James Madison

Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith





To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: jeaflor@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 03:00:44 +0000
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian

 
How big of a building could you build with this? Could you use it as a waterproof coating for rammed earth, papercrete or strawbale?

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Wayne" <huon@...> wrote:
>
> After many weeks of painstaking research I have came across the recipe for
> Petrified Hessian as use here in Australia since the war and still used
> today, so I will print it here and appreciate any feedback, especially
> from anyone that tries it. I live in a very wet environment and will post
> feedback as to how it goes here.
>
> Wayne
>
> Petrified Hessian
>
> 5 liters water
> 5.5kg cement
> 900g lime
> 450g salt
> 225g alum
>
> Apply the mix immediately to the hessian with a stiff brush, first outside
> then inside. After the initial wetness goes but before the mix sets apply
> a second coat to the outside. When this final coat sets the material will
> be hard and strong. The mix should cover about 8m square. Keep the
> surface damp for 3 days by spraying it with water.
>




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[papercreters] Re: exterior waterproofing for papercrete wall

would love to see photos of this. I would like to investigate some options for a privacy fence around a swimming pool.

Thanks,


--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "eogreensticks" <eogreensticks@...> wrote:
>
> i think water may be wicking throo my papercrete wall where it is exposed to easterly rain conditions-
> i wonder if i can waterproof it with silasec and grout made into a paint? i would leave the inside of the wall 'breathable'-
> i just want to keep the rain from coming throo as this is meant to shield the patio from the rain! it is not a closed in building, rather a sort of shell with plastic windows...
> the mystery to me about papercrete is that it absorbs water but must breath as natural buildings will- i love the softer, warmer 'feel' of papercrete compared to concrete surface and have used it as a render over a skeleton of cloth dipped in portland/bondcrete slurry supported on a wood and wire frame.
> so far so good, don't want to wreck it with the wrong finish coat.
> anybody have any ideas about this?
> i thought to follow silasec's recipe for concrete paint but use grout
> ( which has no lime in it according to the people at the tile store)
> as the grout comes in nice colours...
>


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Re: [papercreters] Re: Petrefied Hessian

I honestly couldn't give you those answers yet. Once I have tried it I
will certainly post my results on here. It is used for the walls of
chicken houses, with the hessian stretched across a wooden frame. As I
live in one of the wettest parts of the country I will certainly be able
to tell you how waterproof it is.

Wayne

> How big of a building could you build with this? Could you use it as a
> waterproof coating for rammed earth, papercrete or strawbale?
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Wayne" <huon@...> wrote:
>>
>> After many weeks of painstaking research I have came across the recipe
>> for
>> Petrified Hessian as use here in Australia since the war and still used
>> today, so I will print it here and appreciate any feedback, especially
>> from anyone that tries it. I live in a very wet environment and will
>> post
>> feedback as to how it goes here.
>>
>> Wayne
>>
>> Petrified Hessian
>>
>> 5 liters water
>> 5.5kg cement
>> 900g lime
>> 450g salt
>> 225g alum
>>
>> Apply the mix immediately to the hessian with a stiff brush, first
>> outside
>> then inside. After the initial wetness goes but before the mix sets
>> apply
>> a second coat to the outside. When this final coat sets the material
>> will
>> be hard and strong. The mix should cover about 8m square. Keep the
>> surface damp for 3 days by spraying it with water.


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[papercreters] Re: Experience in GA/SC

Hello,

I guess that was to me ? I don't get on here much as I have my sites to manage. Let me see where to begin :
Q:
Are there any particular places in Georgia or South Carolina where it is more or less difficult to get building permits ?
A:
No not really for alternative methods your outside of their knowledge at your best. It's not that they want to say no it's just that they have never been exposed , for the most part of the state to alternatives in construction.

You really need to contact the commissioners office, in the counties where your interested in building at, to find out the current policies. Recently this month in fact, we did a survey in NE. GA. for a client and found Rabun, Franklin and Greene counties to be the easiest to work within due to their policies and personalities of those in charge.

All 3 have building permits as required items, before you start work but, I think Franklin was the easiest to build a residence in, as that they currently issue a permit , with just a simple floor plan presented to them at permitting time. Next, they want to meet with you at your construction site , to point out the set back boundaries per code limits . I recently found 100 plus acres that we may be able to develop into a subdivision over there and will post that at our Yahoo group page when we do. Please join us there and at our Facebook page too. There are links at our Companies web site within the first section of http://georgiaadobe.com

After that meeting your normally able to build your residential structure without any further meetings or inspections. Should you manage NOT to mention just what your actually building as a owner builder &/or that it's from alternative materials, then you might never have an inspection to face. If they learn your building a non-conventional structure or using non-conventional materials , they have the legal right to cause you to prove your chosen building methods and materials, are up to the International Building Code, as Per the state of Georgia's guidelines.

Q:
Are there particular places where I
should be looking for property or avoid looking for property?

A:
See the above answer and Avoid all metropolitan areas and favor less developed areas, that you have learned about "first hand" since your investing ( or gambling ) your money - on a new home in that area.

Q:
Also, can you give me any estimates for construction costs ?

A:
Do it all yourself ~ with what you have on hand - Cost almost nothing ! Hire it all out, buy all the materials and you doing just like everyone else - spending 100 to 500 per sq. ft. on a conventional structure. Now, since we don't even know the basics of where and what, no I really can't say precisely. It is safe to say, if you hire us, then you may spend about the amount of money as to hire any other professional would cost, to both design and build for you. From us, when we and the materials are available, these materials can cost less, for a Georgia Adobe, than for the materials package for a conventional structure, due to the recycled nature of our choosen materials but, due to the normal labor cost and standard operational expenses, all companies face, we are at about the same total cost, to perhaps slightly more expensive, than a conventional construction company , due to the extras we have - that they don't.

I think it's best to say it's trade off; For example a Georgia Adobe Design, normally includes space and equipment for making all of the structures water, gas, electricity, food, alcohol, methane &/or woodgas fuel for your personal transportation fuels as well as the fuels for running of equipment, such as generators, refrigerators, cooking stoves, heaters etc. Eliminate this - custom built equipment and your no longer a totally independent structure but, your getting the front end cost way down but, at the expense, of a higher monthly cost.

With a Georgia Adobe Design, you will be building a structure, that uses vastly lower energy annually than a conventional structure would and therefore, you could over time , use those savings, to go further off grid, one step at a time.

I think from here, it would be best for you to discuss this in person with us. Please feel free to call me at my office # 706-363-6453 and I would be glad to answer, any further questions you, or anyone else has, that's interested in building with us .

Best Regards,
Joe Woodall, Eco-Architect
Georgia Adobe
Commerce GA 30530


..............................

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "jeaflor" <jeaflor@...> wrote:
>
> Are there any particular places in Georgia or South Carolina where it is more or less difficult to get building permits? Are there particular places where I should be looking for property or avoid looking for property?
>
> Also, can you give me any estimates for construction costs?
>
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "GeorgiaAdobe" <georgiaadobe@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello,
> > I have a great deal of experience with all that and we work in the SE USA too. How can we help you ?
> > Joe
> > Georgia Adobe Rammed Earth & Renewable Energy
> > Commerce GA 30530
> > http://www.georgiaadobe.com
> >
> > > --- On Fri, 11/19/10, jeaflor <jeaflor@> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > From: jeaflor <jeaflor@>
> > > Subject: [papercreters] Experience in GA/SC
> > > To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> > > Date: Friday, November 19, 2010, 9:54 PM
> > >
> > >
> > >  
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Does anyone here have any personal experience with rammed earth, strawbale, papercrete or compressed earth blocks in either Georgia or South Carolina?
> > >
> > > I am thinking about buying property in either Georgia or South Carolina so I can start a CSA farm, and I may be interested in setting up an eco-village. I need to learn as much as I can about using ecologically sustainable building technologies before I decide to move.
> > >
> >
>


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