My apologies, John, for missing your first response.
More questions though--do you mind sharing your specific recipe for
that paper/clay/lime/borax mix that is good and sticky? I notice you
didn't mention sand in that mix. Interesting.
Also, how would I find info on this guy you referenced that came up
with a mix for the floor, foundation, etc.? We are interested in
that as well if it will save us money over standard construction.
Thanks.
Connie
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "John Annesley" <John@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Connie,
> Well in kind, let me repeat my already given answer, copied and
pasted
> from my last response to you-
>
> "How am I going to insulate my yurt shaped thingy? That's still
> debatable as I like a lot of other folks on here like dense
papercrete
> and paperadobe because its inflammable. (I've built an oven out of
the
> stuff and it doesn't even char the surface after hours and hours of
> burning scrap wood in it.) However, that stuff isn't very
insulative.
> I don't like the idea of insulation that smolders, or walls that
> smolder but don't burn. I live in an area without a fire district,
> meaning no fire department. I acknowledge the sentiment of many
folks
> on here who say they'd prefer to live in a house that smolders and
> gives ample warning so you can get out with your life and remove
your
> valuables, or even break apart the offending sections of wall and
> fight the smoldering fire, rather than in a home that burns down
> around you before you can get out. Personally, I'd rather live in
> neither. I like the idea of perlite because its light weight and
> doesn't burn or mold, but I don't know that it would be a good admix
> with papercrete to make the paper less apt to smolder because unlike
> cement or clay, perlite isn't going to infiltrate the pores of the
> paper. Perlite instead of paper might work well, but six cubic feet
of
> perlite is still about twenty bucks where I live, I'm not sure if I
> can get it by the truckload which would definitely be cheaper. I'm
> thinking of perhaps slipforming several inches of perlite, adobe
soil
> and a little lime, but this could be costly unless I can find a bulk
> source for perlite. Then, because I'm a glutton for punishment, I
> intend to erect a thermal mass wall inside of the insulating layer:
> probably sandbags filled with tamped adobe. I'm also looking into
the
> various Jack Bays Rub-R-Slate mixes- he started building with pulped
> paper, clay soil and asphalt emulsion back in the 30's. I was
> intrigued to see that the EPA considers asphalt emulsion non-toxic
and
> it waterproofs papercrete and paperadobe. He made floors, walls, and
> roofs with the stuff in various mixes and proportions, often adding
> sand for compressive strength."
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Robert & Connie" <losee04@>
> wrote:
> >
> > So, to repeat my previous question, John, how do you plan to
insulate
> > the structure? What are you going to use inside the burlap
structure
> > to make the walls energy efficient on your present structure?
> >
> > If you were going to build a dome with the four layers of burlap,
> > would you do the same thing to insulate the walls or would you do
> > something different since the shape of a dome sometimes makes
using
> > standard house insulation more challenging?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Connie
> >
> > --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Nick Boersema" <picknick@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > My concern with building a metal framed structure and coating
it in
> > wire,
> > > was to find a way
> > > to trap the wire as part of a structural matrix with the
coating.
> > With
> > > burlap draped over the
> > > wire with PC blown onto the burlap, the PC might stick to the
> > burlap, but to
> > > get the burlap
> > > then to adhere to the wire seems to me would require a
mechanical
> > bond like
> > > hog rings
> > > every several inches or something. Same with the carpet. I was
> > trying to
> > > emulate
> > > ferrocement using fiber instead of steel, and quickening the
pace
> > of the
> > > process by being
> > > able to dip the fiber (burlap) into a slurry and drape it over
an
> > armature
> > > instead of
> > > meticulously suture expanded metal lath onto the wire armature.
The
> > fact
> > > that the slurry
> > > sets up rock hard inside of half an hour also advances the pace
of
> > the
> > > process, as night
> > > temps are still often below freezing and I didn't want to wait
> > until later
> > > in the year to get
> > > going on the project: freezing while setting up can often ruin
> > cement based
> > > curing
> > > processes.
> > >
> > > John what about using your burlcrete as the shell. Then
spraying
> > successive
> > > layers of papercrete with borax and lime (relatively light high
R
> > value).
> > > Once you have your R value gradually switch your mix to a
heavier
> > mass
> > > oriented recipe and continue to spray layers or slipform which
ever
> > you find
> > > easiest. If your light papercrete is sandwiched between a hard
> > sealed outer
> > > shell and a heavy almost adobe inner shell how can it smolder
much
> > less
> > > ignite?
> > >
> > > Nick
> > >
> >
>
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