Monday, March 31, 2008

[papercreters] Tensile strength of papercrete?

HI all,

I have dabbled in hypertufa, concrete, and papercrete.

My papercrete endeavors are of the garden art variety. I am starting a new project-a outdoor bench made of papercrete. The top will be about 2 inches thick, as will be the base on each side. I am not worried about the bases being strong enough, but I am concerned about the top being strong enough to support the weight of someone without cracking in half. I’d like some input from others about whether or not I need reinforcement inside the top portion, and if so, what to use?

Any input is appreciated!

Best to all,

heather
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[papercreters] grancrete for amphibian airship

Hello Everyone,

I am building different modes of green transport starting with
velomobiles and Kayaks framed with bamboo to eventually go on to
building a solar powered airship not very unlike these

http://www.turtleairships.blogspot.com/


I have had the concept for years and everyone in the transport
industry seems to be thinking along the same lines. I was going to
use carbon fiber to make the skin for these vehicles but the cost is
prohibitive.

For the Kayak and the velomobile I have decided to use a paper
mache and west systems epoxy over the bamboo frame then paint with
epoxy two part paint for extra waterproofing I was thinking of adding
an extra water sealing product to the mix like Thompson's does anyone
have any ideas/recipes? I am building these now and want to be done
with the prototypes for both within the next two weeks.

For the airship (project to start within the next 5 years) I need a
recipe that will be totally waterproof and as lite as possible also
it will be huge so cost will always be an issue. Shear strength needs
to be high and is even more important than compressive strength.
Using Bamboo in the matrix should help with this but ideally I would
be spraying right onto inflated cotton (or Mylar if it adheres)
bladders. Grancrete (http://www.grancrete.net/order/index.cfm)is
purported to be twenty percent lighter than Portland cement, is load
bearing, sticks to itself, and is waterproof. Does anybody have any
info on a possible mix for papercrete with this stuff? If I could get
a lite enough waterproof mix that cures quickly enough I could
actually make an airship out of papercrete.


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Saturday, March 29, 2008

[papercreters] Re: PTO Mixer Photos sealing the vertical shaft - Drain Options

Hi Eric;

Thank you for considering my advice of value. Could well swell my head
up and prevent me from getting thru the door!? I must answer your
question about the valve according to certain parameters though. Long
ago it became apparent to me that I was doing a dis-service to those
around me. I have often complicated and added expense to items that
eventually alienated some. So to answer your question whilst empowering
others is crucial. One of the attributes of alternative architecture is
the bio-regional (indigenous) emphasis. What do we do to grow, prosper,
and be content within the geographical area of stewardship we are
responsible for? Is something as innocuous as the production,
investment, shipping, and availability of a valve of significance??
A couple of weeks ago Nolan and I were discussing the shere brilliance
of that tire tube valve. Created by the redeeming attitude and forsight
of one who has the ability to look at something and see it for what it
can be. What a rare commodity in our Walmartian society!!
Soo.... in my rambling it is hoped an answer will be found?!

Take Care........... Bob


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[papercreters] PTO Mixer Photos sealing the vertical shaft - Drain Options


Hi Bob,

I designed the mixer with a friend of mine who is a welder and metal sculptor, and we probably went overboard, as we were having fun with the whole design process.  The drain we had designed was basically a 6" metal pipe, welded on to the back at an angle, with a custom-built knife gate valve at the end.

Unfortunately, my friend baled out on the project before the drain was complete, and before some of the other details were complete, such as trailer light frames, vertical shaft seal, and priming and painting the frame, etc., but that is another story...  Anyhow, as I'm anxious to use the mixer, I've been exploring other solutions for the drain.

The solution that appeals most to me is to install a 6" Valterra gate valve.  But at $270 that is out of the question.  Next option is a 4" Valterra gate valve, model 6401 ( http://www.valterra.com/Ind/Gate.htm) mounted on the bottom of the tank.  Much better at around $75, and will interconnect with slip-fit 4" PVC pipe, so I can direct the flow where I want by selecting different PVC sections.

The solution that appeals to me most, but I'm not sure is viable, is to use a Valterra 3" RV Waste Valve ( http://www.valterra.com/RV/bladex-valves.htm).  These are inexpensive, generally under $20, are easy to source, and have a variety of interconnection options, so I could attach a short section of flexble waste pipe to control where I want my papercrete.  The big question for me, is, am I going to find the 3" size is just too small??  Any ideas or recommendations?

Another solution that I've been drawn to is the elephant trunk drain devised by Martin Adams and shown in photos on his site:  http://www.makepapercrete.com/The-Papercrete-Tow-Mixer.html

His solution is basically to use about a third of a large inner tube, with a plywood door that closes and seals the tube shut for mixing.  I think it is an ingenious and low cost solution.  I also like the idea of draining out the bottom, as I think it will be easier to empty and clean the tank.  It also gives you some flexibility in controlling the direction of and quantity of your flow.  Also, because of the size of the tube, you'll probably be able to move a dryer mix and unload faster.  On the downside, there is a lot more custom work involved in the installation.

While Martin's solution looks very workable, the Valterra gate valve looks like a better, more elegant solution -- easier to work, adjustable flow rate, better seal, and the ability to interconnect with either RV waste hose (in the 3" size), or standard PVC fittings in the 4" size.  The downside to the Valterra gate valve is that more attention to cleaning will be required to keep it operational. 

Any thoughts on whether 3" will cut it?  Or is 4" the minimum?

Thanks!

Eric Randall
Fairfield, IA







At 12:29 AM 3/29/2008, you wrote:

Hi Eric;

Sure is a nice looking mixer........ it is the first I have seen with
so much attention to detail. Are you going to drain out the bottom or
side??

See Yaaaa.............. Bob

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[papercreters] Re: PTO Mixer Photos sealing the vertical shaft

Hi Eric;

Sure is a nice looking mixer........ it is the first I have seen with
so much attention to detail. Are you going to drain out the bottom or
side??

See Yaaaa.............. Bob


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Friday, March 28, 2008

[papercreters] Pressurewashermushers Need a Little Help

Last weekend was a glorious time to be makin slurry on the southern
end of the Llano Estacado. Changed the oil in the ole Brigs and the
Landa. She fired on the second pull. Ran off three batches of
slurry. Well into the middle of the first 30 gallon batch I
discovered I had about 30 pounds of cement left. So I split it
between the three batches which would up to be a little over a
gallon (dry) of cement per batch.
Instead of makin my typical mushed batch that looked like instant
oatmeal, I just mushed the papers until they were mostly 1/4 or
smaller. THe first thing is this stuff is a LOT dryer than normal
PC. So dry the cement did not want to mix. So I added a little more
water until the cement would dissolve and mixed with my electric
drill with the drywall cage mud mixer.
The second batch I mushed up about 8 inches of paper, added 1/3 the
cement, mixed with the drill and drywall mud mixer, next 1/3, mix
and final 1/3 and mix again.
Same for the last batch.
Result- The first batch I mixed shrunk pretty typical. Second and
third batch shrunk minimally! I edged them one day after pouring to
dry. I got back to them today to stack them and I was supprised how
dry they were and how square they still were. Again the first batch
had the PC slope to them but the two batches where I had minimally
mushed them and used minimal cement were square.
Ok we are talking PC here so ALMOST. But much less than the finer
mushed ones.
And when I molded them, I did nto see the water pouring out the
bottom like it normally does or like it did on the first batch. Also
it took much less water and time. Less than 10 minutes per 30 gallon
batch. Minimizing the water to me is a big thing.Five minutes of my
pressure washer at full tilt boogie is only 20 gallons of water. And
the thing is the pressure washer does not run all the time. I am
guseeing in a 30 gallon batch of material I have less than 10
gallons of water in the minimally processed material.
Those of you who do the pressure washer slurry, try this and get
back to me. Tell me if you see the same thing. I am going to do some
more this weekend to test my test.
Now the blocks are not rock hard. I am not making crete anything. It
is just mushed paper with a cement binder. I am on the hunt for
bentonite to see if I can do this with clay instead of cement. I am
not planning on using these blocks as structure so I am not
concerned about how much weight they can carry. If you are doing
that, you dont even want to think about doing it this way. I am not
concerned about fire resistance as I am planning on a stucco
exterior and all the electric run in steel conduit.
Spring is springging, Have you slurried a bucket today?
A day without slurry is like, taxes


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Thursday, March 27, 2008

[papercreters] Better Living Through Experimentation

Hello Papercreters,



My girlfriend and I are putting on a event in Truth or Consequences, NM next month that is free to the public.

Ed Conley and myself will be speaking about papercrete. There will also be talk on alternative fuel, energy and ferrocement.

Date: Thursday, April 17th @ 6pm
Location: 301 South Foch St. / Truth or Consequences, NM 87901

Here is a link to the flyer:

http://www.gaiatreehouse.com/BLTCposter.jpg

-Mikey
http://greenacre-hotsprings.blogspot.com


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Monday, March 24, 2008

[papercreters] Re: Borax, Boric Acid, Borates, Lime Quandry

Hi everyone,
 
Sorry for the stupid question. Of course the fibre is paper. I believe I was tired of reading! Have a good week...


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[papercreters] Re: New to papercrete

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "texasweldinginspector"
<texasweldinginspector@...> wrote:
>
> "Brown cardboard" Are there any uses for this? Could not find any
> thing on this.

I agree with Curtis on this one. You can use it, but it is best if
presoaked for a good while and then pulped with the pressure washer.
It is alot harder on my mortar mixer than newsprint or shredded office
paper. That said, if you have a healthy supply of it and are willing
to work out the problems it works just fine. Just avoid the kinda that
has been waxed, it is way more headaches than it is worth, except
perhaps as liners for your forms to keep from sticking.

- Ernie


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[papercreters] Re: Borax, Boric Acid, Borates, Lime Quandry

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "matrovao" <matrovao@...> wrote:
>
> What do you mean by "Fibre"? What kind of fibre you're talking
> about? Sorry if it´s a stupid question, but I didn´t understand.

Hi, Marcio. Bob used fibre in place of paper. When the paper is pulped
it becomes a fibrous material that is then blended with cement, lime,
kaolines, etc. to create papercrete.

HTH,

- Ernie


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Sunday, March 23, 2008

[papercreters] Re: Borax, Boric Acid, Borates, Lime Quandry

Hi Mr Merril,

I'm a new member of this group and still studing all I can know
about Papercrete before I can begin something. I´ve read a lot of
topics. I have a question about your formula of mortar. What do you
mean by "Fibre"? What kind of fibre you're talking about? Sorry if
it´s a stupid question, but I didn´t understand. Thank´s a lot,

Marcio Cavalcanti.

PS: I'm from Brazil and I´ve never heard about Papercrete before.
Here, our constructions are based on clay bricks, mortar and
concrete. We rarely see, like in US, constructions built from wood.
I'm gonna give papercrete a try. I'm amazed with the paper
power.hehehe


--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Merrill"
<robertmerrill1953@...> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Eric;
>
> As you know I have been working on F/C formulas for a day or
two. I do
> not recommend the use of Borax. The following formula has been in
use by
> me for over five years and has some excellant qualities. It is the
most
> durable, and cost effective formula that meets the need for low to
> non-existent shrinkage with super adhesion characteristics. By dry
> weight: 60# fibre; 10# prtld'; 10# lime; 10# clay; 10# sand. Mix
in that
> order by adding the binders to the emulsified fibre. It will
prduce a
> light-weight, highly insulative, fire resistent, easily sprayed
> material.
>
> Best Wishes Bob
>

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Re: [papercreters] New to papercrete

Cardboard is tougher than woodpecker lips. It can be blasted apart with a pressure washer and the tow mixer will pretty well mush it up. BUt there are easier materials to work with.
Also, welcome to the site. I see you are TWI and I am a CWI and have been called a few other things by weldors.


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Saturday, March 22, 2008

[papercreters] New to papercrete

I see mixes with news paper, ect., but I do not see any thing about the
most the most common paper of all. "Brown cardboard" Are there any uses
for this? Could not find any thing on this.


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Friday, March 21, 2008

Re: [papercreters] PTO Mixer Photos sealing the vertical shaft

Thanks.  I'll hang onto this point for when I get to that point.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 4:22 PM
Subject: [papercreters] PTO Mixer Photos sealing the vertical shaft


Hi Nori,

There is a piece of 1/8" tightly machined teflon that was put on the shaft, and then when the gear box was mounted to the horizontal mounting plate it was captured.  I'm also putting a piece of 1/16" rubber gasket between the bottom of the tank and the gear box mounting plate, captured by a piece of metal located inside the tank and bolted through the tank to the gear box mounting plate.  Hopefully the two combined will keep water out.  Also, I will store the tank so water doesn't collect arount the shaft.

Eric

At 07:48 PM 3/21/2008, you wrote:

Eric, what kind of seal do you have on the shaft between your gear box and the blade?
 
My gearbox looks very different than yours with a side mount, not a surface mount.  I've got a lot of cleaning up to do before I can think of mounting it.
 
I've uploaded the photo.  The access panel is on the (will be) bottom of the gear box.  The gearbox will need a vertical mounting surface.
 
ElfN


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[papercreters] PTO Mixer Photos

Eric, what kind of seal do you have on the shaft between your gear box and the blade?
 
My gearbox looks very different than yours with a side mount, not a surface mount.  I've got a lot of cleaning up to do before I can think of mounting it.
 
I've uploaded the photo.  The access panel is on the (will be) bottom of the gear box.  The gearbox will need a vertical mounting surface.
 
ElfN
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Re: [papercreters] PTO Mixer Photos Uploaded

<LOL> Ne'mind. Found the additional images.

ElfN

----- Original Message -----
From: "ericbrandall" <eric@eric-randall.com>

> I've just uploaded 12 photos of my PTO-driven papercrete mixer. It's
> not quite finished, but close! Happy to answer any questions you may
> have.

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[papercreters] PTO Mixer Photos sealing the vertical shaft


Hi Nori,

There is a piece of 1/8" tightly machined teflon that was put on the shaft, and then when the gear box was mounted to the horizontal mounting plate it was captured.  I'm also putting a piece of 1/16" rubber gasket between the bottom of the tank and the gear box mounting plate, captured by a piece of metal located inside the tank and bolted through the tank to the gear box mounting plate.  Hopefully the two combined will keep water out.  Also, I will store the tank so water doesn't collect arount the shaft.

Eric

At 07:48 PM 3/21/2008, you wrote:

Eric, what kind of seal do you have on the shaft between your gear box and the blade?
 
My gearbox looks very different than yours with a side mount, not a surface mount.  I've got a lot of cleaning up to do before I can think of mounting it.
 
I've uploaded the photo.  The access panel is on the (will be) bottom of the gear box.  The gearbox will need a vertical mounting surface.
 
ElfN
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Re: [papercreters] PTO Mixer Photos Uploaded

Great pictures, Eric! There's only five images in the gallery . . . ?

I have a hydraulic drawbar on the back of our JD1010, so I won't have to do
quite as much bulding. What you've done is quite impressive! It looks like
you've got all the stuff thought out; emptying, mixing, moving. I'll bet,
knowing how thorough you are, you already know how you're going to left the
tank to empty it.

ElfN

----- Original Message -----
From: "ericbrandall" <eric@eric-randall.com>

> I've just uploaded 12 photos of my PTO-driven papercrete mixer. It's
> not quite finished, but close! Happy to answer any questions you may
> have.


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Re: [papercreters] PTO Driven Mixer

I've already got it all for what I've planned, except for the tank and one small part.  I think it will make a really nice stable mixer, and the draw bar will let me dump it.  I'd have to buy the tank regardless, and I can get my machinist/engineer brother to fab me the part I need.  I'm looking forward to see what Eric has going.
 
ElfN
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 2:42 PM
Subject: RE: [papercreters] PTO Driven Mixer

If you can find a mower with a stuffed gear box you can likely get it for another $100.00 and then you will have pretty much everything you need.

Nick

 


From: papercreters@yahoogroups.com [mailto:papercreters@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ElfNori
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 4:28 PM
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [papercreters] PTO Driven Mixer

 

Okay, let me say right up front all I have is the gearbox and blades.  Nothing else.  No cover, no three point hitch attachment, nothing.  Just a ~9" square gearbox, T-shaped blade attachment and blades.

 

ElfN


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RE: [papercreters] PTO Mixer Photos Uploaded

That baby looks mighty solid Eric.  I think we have the same tractor Eric mine is the 34 horse model is that what you have?  I have the backhoe as well but the gent before me ran her hard and put in the barn wet L so I have slowly been rebuilding things as I have the money.

 

Nick

 


From: papercreters@yahoogroups.com [mailto:papercreters@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ericbrandall
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 5:51 PM
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [papercreters] PTO Mixer Photos Uploaded

 

Hi,

I've just uploaded 12 photos of my PTO-driven papercrete mixer. It's
not quite finished, but close! Happy to answer any questions you may
have.

Eric

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[papercreters] PTO Mixer Photos Uploaded

Hi,

I've just uploaded 12 photos of my PTO-driven papercrete mixer. It's
not quite finished, but close! Happy to answer any questions you may
have.

Eric


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RE: [papercreters] PTO Driven Mixer

If you can find a mower with a stuffed gear box you can likely get it for another $100.00 and then you will have pretty much everything you need.

Nick

 


From: papercreters@yahoogroups.com [mailto:papercreters@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ElfNori
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 4:28 PM
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [papercreters] PTO Driven Mixer

 

Okay, let me say right up front all I have is the gearbox and blades.  Nothing else.  No cover, no three point hitch attachment, nothing.  Just a ~9" square gearbox, T-shaped blade attachment and blades.

 

ElfN

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Re: [papercreters] PTO Driven Mixer

Okay, let me say right up front all I have is the gearbox and blades.  Nothing else.  No cover, no three point hitch attachment, nothing.  Just a ~9" square gearbox, T-shaped blade attachment and blades.
 
ElfN
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 1:20 PM
Subject: RE: [papercreters] PTO Driven Mixer

The easiest way to visualize it in my mind would be to think of your current mower.  Take the gear box off the top.  Take the blades and flywheel off the bottom.  Stick the gearbox back on up side down from underneath.  Cut a whole in your tank mount it where the gear box used to sit and now has a short shaft sticking up from underneath. Voila a mixer as soon as you put the blade on.  You will need to put some stubby legs on the front and adjust the back wheel so the whole thing sits a bit higher than originally designed.

 

Is THAT CLEAR AS MUD now? Or have I further confused you. Cuz I'm good at that sometimes.

 

Nick

 


From: papercreters@yahoogroups.com [mailto:papercreters@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ElfNori
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 1:44 PM
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [papercreters] PTO Driven Mixer

 

Yes, I have a three point hitch.  We also have a working mower, but I didn't want to take that apart as we NEED it.  12 acres takes a lot of mowing.

 

Can you better explain what you're proposing?  I'm having trouble visualizing it from the description below.

 

Pumping the gearbox full of grease is a good plan . . . I'll pull it apart to see what we've got.

 

ElfN

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 10:10 AM

Subject: RE: [papercreters] PTO Driven Mixer

 

Hi Nori:

 

I have an old mower gearbox as well but it is still attached to the mower and in use.  It kept leaking the oil out so I just pumped it full of grease and have had no further issues.  If your tractor has three point hitch I would go that way and forget about the draw bar.  It is far safer when using a PTO.  The added bonus is you can just build your tank platform with skids on the front and caster type wheels on the back.  Then it will be easy to use the three point hitch to tilt your load and drain easily.  As well as drive it right over your forms and fill etc.

 

I am excited to follow your progress lots of pictures please.

 

Nick


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Re: [papercreters] PTO Driven Mixer

Thanks Eric.  I look forward to seeing your solution.
 
ElfN
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 12:15 PM
Subject: Re: [papercreters] PTO Driven Mixer


Hi Nori,

I'll take some photos this afternoon of my PTO-driven papercrete mixer that is nearly complete, and post them in the photos section.  I was hoping to get it finished first, but could be useful for you to see another implementation now.

One thing about the gear box.  I just bought a brush hog 90 degree gear box on e-bay, and, as you mentioned, it is designed for gravity to keep oil in the gears.  Two solutions that have been proposed to me.  First is to drain the oil and pack it with gear grease.  Second is to drill and tap a filler hole on what will become the top in our use.  I've decided to do neither right now, anxious to get the blade spinning... ;--)

Best,

Eric Randall
Fairfield, Iowa



At 10:45 AM 3/21/2008, you wrote:

I am now the very proud owner of a rotary mower gearbox.  Wahoo!  Got it from the large farm equipment and parts place in Albany. 
 
I'm going to put Terry to work taking apart the single axle travel trailer (junk, got it as a freebee), which will be my base for building the mixer.
 
I'll need to get some welding done, once I figure out how I want to configure my mixer.  I need a hitch that will fasten to my drawbar and I need the mixer close enough to the tractor to attach the pto drive shaft.  I will need to build a connector for the mixer end of the drive shaft we already have.  The gearbox has a round shaft with a shear pin.  I can't recall what the augur shaft is . . .
 
I've got the base of the chicken house halfway done.  I had to purchase some extra lags, but haven't had a chance to get the lags installed.  Once they're in I'll skin the frame with plywood and be that much closer to ready to play . . . once the weather cooperates.  It won't be today.  Woke up to over an inch of snow on the ground. 
 
ElfN


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RE: [papercreters] PTO Driven Mixer

The easiest way to visualize it in my mind would be to think of your current mower.  Take the gear box off the top.  Take the blades and flywheel off the bottom.  Stick the gearbox back on up side down from underneath.  Cut a whole in your tank mount it where the gear box used to sit and now has a short shaft sticking up from underneath. Voila a mixer as soon as you put the blade on.  You will need to put some stubby legs on the front and adjust the back wheel so the whole thing sits a bit higher than originally designed.

 

Is THAT CLEAR AS MUD now? Or have I further confused you. Cuz I’m good at that sometimes.

 

Nick

 


From: papercreters@yahoogroups.com [mailto:papercreters@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ElfNori
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 1:44 PM
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [papercreters] PTO Driven Mixer

 

Yes, I have a three point hitch.  We also have a working mower, but I didn't want to take that apart as we NEED it.  12 acres takes a lot of mowing.

 

Can you better explain what you're proposing?  I'm having trouble visualizing it from the description below.

 

Pumping the gearbox full of grease is a good plan . . . I'll pull it apart to see what we've got.

 

ElfN

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 10:10 AM

Subject: RE: [papercreters] PTO Driven Mixer

 

Hi Nori:

 

I have an old mower gearbox as well but it is still attached to the mower and in use.  It kept leaking the oil out so I just pumped it full of grease and have had no further issues.  If your tractor has three point hitch I would go that way and forget about the draw bar.  It is far safer when using a PTO.  The added bonus is you can just build your tank platform with skids on the front and caster type wheels on the back.  Then it will be easy to use the three point hitch to tilt your load and drain easily.  As well as drive it right over your forms and fill etc.

 

I am excited to follow your progress lots of pictures please.

 

Nick

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Re: [papercreters] PTO Driven Mixer


Hi Nori,

I'll take some photos this afternoon of my PTO-driven papercrete mixer that is nearly complete, and post them in the photos section.  I was hoping to get it finished first, but could be useful for you to see another implementation now.

One thing about the gear box.  I just bought a brush hog 90 degree gear box on e-bay, and, as you mentioned, it is designed for gravity to keep oil in the gears.  Two solutions that have been proposed to me.  First is to drain the oil and pack it with gear grease.  Second is to drill and tap a filler hole on what will become the top in our use.  I've decided to do neither right now, anxious to get the blade spinning... ;--)

Best,

Eric Randall
Fairfield, Iowa



At 10:45 AM 3/21/2008, you wrote:

I am now the very proud owner of a rotary mower gearbox.  Wahoo!  Got it from the large farm equipment and parts place in Albany. 
 
I'm going to put Terry to work taking apart the single axle travel trailer (junk, got it as a freebee), which will be my base for building the mixer.
 
I'll need to get some welding done, once I figure out how I want to configure my mixer.  I need a hitch that will fasten to my drawbar and I need the mixer close enough to the tractor to attach the pto drive shaft.  I will need to build a connector for the mixer end of the drive shaft we already have.  The gearbox has a round shaft with a shear pin.  I can't recall what the augur shaft is . . .
 
I've got the base of the chicken house halfway done.  I had to purchase some extra lags, but haven't had a chance to get the lags installed.  Once they're in I'll skin the frame with plywood and be that much closer to ready to play . . . once the weather cooperates.  It won't be today.  Woke up to over an inch of snow on the ground. 
 
ElfN
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Re: [papercreters] PTO Driven Mixer

Yes, I have a three point hitch.  We also have a working mower, but I didn't want to take that apart as we NEED it.  12 acres takes a lot of mowing.
 
Can you better explain what you're proposing?  I'm having trouble visualizing it from the description below.
 
Pumping the gearbox full of grease is a good plan . . . I'll pull it apart to see what we've got.
 
ElfN
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 10:10 AM
Subject: RE: [papercreters] PTO Driven Mixer

Hi Nori:

 

I have an old mower gearbox as well but it is still attached to the mower and in use.  It kept leaking the oil out so I just pumped it full of grease and have had no further issues.  If your tractor has three point hitch I would go that way and forget about the draw bar.  It is far safer when using a PTO.  The added bonus is you can just build your tank platform with skids on the front and caster type wheels on the back.  Then it will be easy to use the three point hitch to tilt your load and drain easily.  As well as drive it right over your forms and fill etc.

 

I am excited to follow your progress lots of pictures please.

 

Nick

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RE: [papercreters] PTO Driven Mixer

Hi Nori:

 

I have an old mower gearbox as well but it is still attached to the mower and in use.  It kept leaking the oil out so I just pumped it full of grease and have had no further issues.  If your tractor has three point hitch I would go that way and forget about the draw bar.  It is far safer when using a PTO.  The added bonus is you can just build your tank platform with skids on the front and caster type wheels on the back.  Then it will be easy to use the three point hitch to tilt your load and drain easily.  As well as drive it right over your forms and fill etc.

 

I am excited to follow your progress lots of pictures please.

 

Nick

 


From: papercreters@yahoogroups.com [mailto:papercreters@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ElfNori
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 12:04 PM
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [papercreters] PTO Driven Mixer

 

Oh, yeah, taunt me with your lovely weather.  <grin>  I WILL get even.  When it's a beautiful sunny 74 here in June and you're starting to cook, I'll remind you of this.

 

The gearbox cost me $175. <wiggles in excitement>  Not bad.  I'll try and get pictures of it today. 

 

I also need to disassemble the gearbox to see how it's constructed.  I know the drive shaft fastens to the blade assembly with a shear pin which can be reached by taking the cover off the box.  I must decide if I should build a new blade mounting assembly or use what came with the unit.  I'm leaning toward the latter as the blade holder is a T which holds two rotating blades. 

 

I also need to check the seals, see what kind of shape they're in, make sure the seals will hold  up to being mounted upside down against papercrete.  Lots to do before I start assembly.

 

Next time Terry goes to town with the land yacht I'll send him to Del's for a 200 gal tank.  I'd rather get a polymer tank instead of galvanized.  I won't have to worry about leakage around the seam at the outside bottom.  I'll have to buzz through and check out what they have to offer before I launch Terry on that task.

 

ElfN

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