Good point Pat,
Your flange/nipple was your primary point and it's and excellent idea.
I like the length of the nipple too. It allows you to slide the
blade up and down a few inches while in operation. That's sometimes
helpful while mixing in buckets.
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Pat B Parham
<texasweldinginspector@...> wrote:
>
> Please take note of what slurryguy says but the main thing here is
the use of the floor flange and nipple to keep my mixer shaft in the
center of my barrel. This is what I wish to demonstrate for everyone.
>
> --- On Sat, 7/12/08, slurryguy <slurryguy@...> wrote:
>
> From: slurryguy <slurryguy@...>
> Subject: [papercreters] Re: Blade Safetys end again using correct
address
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Saturday, July 12, 2008, 8:59 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I think it is appropriate to point out that the welds holding those
> saw blades to the central mixing paddles are the only thing keeping
> the blades from flying off. Wouldn't that be a frightening
> experience?
>
> Since someone using a userid, "texasweldinginspec tor" is the one
that
> built and posted the one pictured, I have confidence that the welds
> holding those particular saw blades in place very strong welds
indeed.
>
> Contrast this with a typical lawn mower blade design, where the
blade
> itself is one piece and does not have any welds holding the blade
> itself together. An amateur with minimal mechanical experience can
> easily assemble that and achieve similar strength and quality as if
a
> professional mechanic assembled a straight blade design.
>
> I'm NOT saying that a lawn mower blade cannot fail. Of course it
> can. A metal fatigue failure could happen with either design though.
>
> I urge caution and care if someone wants to duplicate this saw
blade
> design. Welding is a skill that takes time to perfect. Weak welds
> in such a design could be extremely dangerous. The faster the blade
> spins, the higher the stresses on the welds.
>
> If there is the slightest doubt in the quality of your welding, I
> suggest finding someone that can make the welds perfect.
>
> Are you building a blade or a Minotaur Ken?
> From the looks of that dude in the other video, I bet they would be
> more expensive to feed than an electric drill.
>
> hehehehe
>
> --- In papercreters@ yahoogroups. com, ken bolin
<bornofthehorses@ ...>
> wrote:
> >
> > It is nasty looken I must build one.
> > Ken
> >
> > --- On Sat, 7/12/08, Pat B Parham <texasweldinginspec tor@> wrote:
> >
> > From: Pat B Parham <texasweldinginspec tor@>
> > Subject: Re: [papercreters] Re: Blade Safetys end again using
> correct address
> > To: papercreters@ yahoogroups. com
> > Date: Saturday, July 12, 2008, 11:30 AM
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Talk about a paper pulping helper! I want one..
> >
> > Yep that's the right album.
> >
> > --- On Sat, 7/12/08, slurryguy <slurryguy@ ..> wrote:
> >
> > From: slurryguy <slurryguy@ ..>
> > Subject: [papercreters] Re: Blade Safetys end again using correct
> address
> > To: papercreters@ yahoogroups. com
> > Date: Saturday, July 12, 2008, 5:50 PM
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I think this is the album you're referring to:
> > http://ph.groups. yahoo.com/ group/papercrete rs/spshow/ bd68
> >
> > That machine looks like the kind of thing this guy would use:
> > http://www.youtube. com/watch? v=e9LJZ-yaZ78
> >
> > hehehe
> >
> > --- In papercreters@ yahoogroups. com, Pat B Parham
> > <texasweldinginspec tor@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hope there is an album in Group Pictures as ''My Blade''
showing
> > all a what and how.
> > >
> > > --- On Tue, 7/8/08, slurryguy <slurryguy@ ..> wrote:
> > >
> > > From: slurryguy <slurryguy@ ..>
> > > Subject: [papercreters] Re: Blade Safetys end again using
correct
> > address
> > > To: papercreters@ yahoogroups. com
> > > Date: Tuesday, July 8, 2008, 9:41 PM
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I like it. It's simple, cheap, and effective.
> > >
> > > There's just one thing missing...
> > >
> > > Where's your pictures of your whizbang gizmo?
> > > Your explaination is excellent, but a picture will allow us to
> > > officially name it the Parham Bucketizer.. . or some other fun
> name
> > of
> > > your choosing.
> > >
> > > :)
> > >
> > > --- In papercreters@ yahoogroups. com, Pat B Parham
> > > <texasweldinginspec tor@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- On Mon, 7/7/08, Pat B Parham <texasweldinginspec tor@>
> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > From: Pat B Parham <texasweldinginspec tor@>
> > > > Subject: Blade safety
> > > > To: papercreters@ ...
> > > > Date: Monday, July 7, 2008, 11:41 PM
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > There has been several notes about blades coming through side
> of
> > > buckets and this is the way I protected myself from this
hazard,
> > took
> > > very little time and less than $5. Remember safety does NOT
> > > cost money or time, but unsafe cost you and your loved
> > ones. Instead
> > > of a big drill I found a 1'' impact wrench on E-BAY and as this
> did
> > > not have a chuck to hold my blade. I bought a 1/2'' floor
flange
> > and
> > > a 4"X1/2'' NIPPLE at the hardware store, and then bolted flg.
to
> > > center of bucket. Then welded blade 2'' up the mixer
> > shaft, inserted
> > > 2'' of shaft into nipple and now no matter what my mixer blade
> > STAYS
> > > in the center of my bucket. Worked on the 30 gal. drum I
> > built also.
> > > Just make sure you turn your shaft clockwise looking down and
the
> > > nipple will never come out. Also makes a handy holder, just
> release
> > > the switch and everything stays put. I did put a 1/4'' wafer
wood
> > > false bottom on to hold the bolts.
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
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