Papercreters: June 2011

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Re: [papercreters] Re: PC Project started in Jan of 2008

No, I'm not doing anything with PC at the present. It's interesting to me, so I've been a member of this list pretty much since it started. I don't post much since I don't have direct experience to share as far as PC goes. I've been busy doing an addition (conventional construction) and remodeling an older house. I want to do some PC work in the future, and have sure learned a lot here!

Greg

From: doris <yakishome@yahoo.com>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 11:18 PM
Subject: [papercreters] Re: PC Project started in Jan of 2008

Thanks Greg, it has been a lot of hard work but well worth it.
Are you doing a PC project.

Doris and Ron

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Greg House <ghunicycle@...> wrote:
>
> Wow, your place is looking amazing, Doris! Congratulations to you and Ron for accomplishing so much on your home. I really appreciate the photos you posted showing the progress. Everything looks just great!
>
> Greg

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Monday, June 27, 2011

RE: [papercreters] Re: Make a mixer from an old pickup-bed trailer

As a faber myself if I were to use the bed first thing i would do is Weld the tailgate closed, Ri coat 3 or 4 coats of the whole bed to include up and over the lip. Drop the shock/supports twist the diffy upward. Try to use some/all of the leafs/springs as supports after its lowered you my not be able to without taking some leafs out first. Either lower the bed onto the yoke (hole cut to fit) where it came into the bed to put a blade on it. Or shaft and couple a mounting system for the blade.<<< alot more work. Now your going to have frame,tongue/hitch and tie the bed to the diffy/axles also.
Ken

--- On Mon, 6/27/11, JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@hotmail.com> wrote:

From: JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: [papercreters] Re: Make a mixer from an old pickup-bed trailer
To: "papercreters papercreters" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Monday, June 27, 2011, 7:38 PM

My biggest problem has been with the leaks. If I ever build another tow mixer I will use a plastic tank with an elephant trunk. The seam around the bottom of the stock tank just comes apart and has huge gaps. I have patched it up many times but it is not fun and the repairs only last for a couple of loads. I was thinking of taking the stock tank off putting a better tank on what I have. The guys who made it for me used oriented strand board and it had completely delaminated so it is probably beyond saving. I must say that just having a mixer that still makes papercrete after 5 years of hard use is a miracle.

Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith

To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: dalmatiangirl61@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 21:01:00 +0000
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Make a mixer from an old pickup-bed trailer

I'm new to papercrete and have not built a mixer yet, but I've done metal fabrication for 20+ years. Yes, you will have to remove the shocks and springs. Obviously people have built and used these mixers successfully by just cutting a hole in the bottom of tank and lots of sealer where the diff pokes thru. I would fab up some bearing plates and use 2 flanged sealed bearings, sealing would not be an issue at all, then use a flex coupler between shaft and diff. Tank will need to be fully supported, and a rigid trailer frame would keep flexing to a minimum. You will need access to a shop with metal cutting abilities and welding equipment, someone that knows what they are doing helps.

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "thelandyachtaustin" <thelandyacht@...> wrote:
>
> I've read most everyone who's made tow-mixers start with a rear-end & build the trailer onto that...or incorporate that into a trailer, however you wanna say it.
>
> But I've got (or have had access to, for a while) a trailer made from what looks like an old 3/4ton pickup-bed. Heavy duty shocks & springs still in place (so the bed sits WAY up high from the rear-end).
>
> Any thoughts on how I'd start modifying this thing to make a mixer out of it? Am I gonna have to get those shocks off & drop the floor, or can anyone think of a way to "extend" the drive-shaft of the rear-end (to get into a tank sitting at the truck-bed level) once it's turned vertical?
>
> Thoughts, considerations, suggestions all welcome!
>

__._,_.___

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Re: [papercreters] Re: Make a mixer from an old pickup-bed trailer

When I was towing my mixer, at first I had just put the tank on a frame and the bottom of the tank cracked. I had it brazed and then put 3/4" plywood between the tank and the frame. My blade is only about 4" off the bottom of the tank, and the turbulence was flexing the tank bottom. The brazing did not hold, and exacerbated the problem because the heat weakened the metal and burned off the galvanizing.

My seam never leaked a lot like yours. Once I made the mixer stationary I started leaving a fillet of papercrete around the bottom seam since the extra weight didn't use any extra fuel. It only reduced the capacity of the tank a little. I can spin the blade faster with a stationary mixer because I don't have to worry about bouncing the contents all over a bumpy dirt road. The cracks in the bottom of the tank spread from turbulence flexing the bottom, and construction adhesive didn't help, nor did screwing down the edges or attaching a patch. After a while I just trimmed the ragged edges and let pc seal the holes. There is one large hole about two square feet in area, and a couple of smaller ones. Ten years later I'm still using the same tank on the same plywood. The plywood is dark gray, impregnated with cement which no doubt has helped preserve it.

spaceman

 All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.  http://Starship-Enterprises.Net

On 6/27/2011 8:38 PM, JUDITH WILLIAMS wrote:

My biggest problem has been with the leaks. If I ever build another tow mixer I will use a plastic tank with an elephant trunk. The seam around the bottom of the stock tank just comes apart and has huge gaps. I have patched it up many times but it is not fun and the repairs only last for a couple of loads. I was thinking of taking the stock tank off putting a better tank on what I have. The guys who made it for me used oriented strand board and it had completely delaminated so it is probably beyond saving. I must say that just having a mixer that still makes papercrete after 5 years of hard use is a miracle.

Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

RE: [papercreters] Re: Make a mixer from an old pickup-bed trailer

My biggest problem has been with the leaks. If I ever build another tow mixer I will use a plastic tank with an elephant trunk. The seam around the bottom of the stock tank just comes apart and has huge gaps. I have patched it up many times but it is not fun and the repairs only last for a couple of loads. I was thinking of taking the stock tank off putting a better tank on what I have. The guys who made it for me used oriented strand board and it had completely delaminated so it is probably beyond saving. I must say that just having a mixer that still makes papercrete after 5 years of hard use is a miracle.

Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith

To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: dalmatiangirl61@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 21:01:00 +0000
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Make a mixer from an old pickup-bed trailer

I'm new to papercrete and have not built a mixer yet, but I've done metal fabrication for 20+ years. Yes, you will have to remove the shocks and springs. Obviously people have built and used these mixers successfully by just cutting a hole in the bottom of tank and lots of sealer where the diff pokes thru. I would fab up some bearing plates and use 2 flanged sealed bearings, sealing would not be an issue at all, then use a flex coupler between shaft and diff. Tank will need to be fully supported, and a rigid trailer frame would keep flexing to a minimum. You will need access to a shop with metal cutting abilities and welding equipment, someone that knows what they are doing helps.

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "thelandyachtaustin" <thelandyacht@...> wrote:
>
> I've read most everyone who's made tow-mixers start with a rear-end & build the trailer onto that...or incorporate that into a trailer, however you wanna say it.
>
> But I've got (or have had access to, for a while) a trailer made from what looks like an old 3/4ton pickup-bed. Heavy duty shocks & springs still in place (so the bed sits WAY up high from the rear-end).
>
> Any thoughts on how I'd start modifying this thing to make a mixer out of it? Am I gonna have to get those shocks off & drop the floor, or can anyone think of a way to "extend" the drive-shaft of the rear-end (to get into a tank sitting at the truck-bed level) once it's turned vertical?
>
> Thoughts, considerations, suggestions all welcome!
>

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

[papercreters] Re: Make a mixer from an old pickup-bed trailer

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "thelandyachtaustin" <thelandyacht@...> wrote:
>
> I've read most everyone who's made tow-mixers start with a rear-end & build the trailer onto that...or incorporate that into a trailer, however you wanna say it.
>
> But I've got (or have had access to, for a while) a trailer made from what looks like an old 3/4ton pickup-bed. Heavy duty shocks & springs still in place (so the bed sits WAY up high from the rear-end).
>
> Any thoughts on how I'd start modifying this thing to make a mixer out of it? Am I gonna have to get those shocks off & drop the floor, or can anyone think of a way to "extend" the drive-shaft of the rear-end (to get into a tank sitting at the truck-bed level) once it's turned vertical?
>
> Thoughts, considerations, suggestions all welcome!
>

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RE: [papercreters] Interested, but not necessarily in making my own PC

That's very interesting, worthy of being filed away for future reference. I met Zach Rabon's father in Tuscon a few years ago shortly after they started making papercrete blocks. They bought an old cement block factory and converted it to make papercrete. They seem like nice people but never deny that they are in it for the money. The houses they build in Texas are about 3000 sf and very upscale. Nothing against them but most of us are into papercrete out of appreciation for its simplicity and low expense.

If I wanted to use papercrete as insulation for a small shed I would find a way to make it myself without a tow mixer and do it as I had the time. I tend to want to do everything myself so I am biased but I see no reason to complicate a simple thing like papercrete. Lex Terry, an old timer in the papercrete world was involved in a project on the Navajo reservation. I asked him how they got papercrete all the way out there. What they did was make a slurry of just paper and water. They poured in into forms and cut them into blocks. They loaded them on a trailer, took them out there and mixed them with cement in a cement mixer. This may not be applicable to what you want to do but it is an example of someone being creative with papercrete.

By the way, I have many blocks stacked around my site and a large building that will eventually be dismantled. I don't see myself needing all these blocks and would not mind parting with them for anyone who is interested. I am in New Mexico.

Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith

To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: ronerichter@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 12:57:48 -0700
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Interested, but not necessarily in making my own PC

Andrea,
As a way to stay focused on papercrete in the middle of winter I wrote to Greenstar Blox and asked them to give me a quote on a 40' X 60' shop using their blocks. I wanted to see what I would be saving by doing it myself onsite. These are the only commercally available PC blocks (that I know of). Here is what they said:

Ronne:
To give you some rough estimates in materials that you will need to complete your project -
It looks as though you will be needing roughly 4900 adobe Greenstar Blox-which comes on 41 pallets.(normally comes on 120 per pallet-but with us having to ship there-we may stack 156 per pallet in order to save additional trucks)
In order to make your field mixes on site for mortar and plasters-you will need 82 bundles of cellulose-and 8, 5-gallons buckets of our additives. On site-you will only need water and cement.
With the Greenstar Blox costing $1.50 each, cellulose running $15.00 per bundle-and additives at $25.00 per gallon
Your cost for materials will be approximately $10,720.00 with tax included.
The freight will be about $2.50 per loaded mile to Montana-per truck. I am guessing close to 3 trucks of materials-which will cost around $6,000.00 total...........
We would love to be a part of your project-and are here to help you in any capacity that is needed.
If this sounds interesting to you-we can begin to fine tune the numbers-but this should at least give you something to go by.
Feel free to call us anytime for more information-and to answer any other questions that you may have.

Zach Rabon
President
Mason Greenstar, Inc.
[ http://www.greenstarblox.com/ ]www.greenstarblox.com3

Remember this is without roof, doors, or windows. I will be doing myself for a fraction of that. I can't even imagine swallowing the shipping cost. I thought of asking them if they'd like to start a plant here and other places so the shipping is less, but haven't.

Cheers,
Ron

From: alohadarla <alohadarla@yahoo.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 21, 2011, 9:44 PM

Hello, I'm new to papercrete and to this group. I'm potentially interested in using papercrete as insulation in a small backyard shed. I'm not particularly interested in making it myself, however. The amount I would need is fairly small, and I don't think I'll have other uses for this material in the future. Perhaps I could buy some from another papercrete enthusiast? I'm in the Bay Area (East Bay).
suggestions welcome.
Andrea
alohadarla@yahoo.com

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Re: [papercreters] Interested, but not necessarily in making my own PC

From: alohadarla <alohadarla@yahoo.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 21, 2011, 9:44 PM

Hello, I'm new to papercrete and to this group. I'm potentially interested in using papercrete as insulation in a small backyard shed. I'm not particularly interested in making it myself, however. The amount I would need is fairly small, and I don't think I'll have other uses for this material in the future. Perhaps I could buy some from another papercrete enthusiast? I'm in the Bay Area (East Bay).
suggestions welcome.
Andrea
alohadarla@yahoo.com

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Re: [papercreters] Make a mixer from an old pickup-bed trailer

For those of you attempting this don't do what I did. I was building my towmixer in isolation (before I found that there was a forum). I had a truck bed trailer and merrily went and designed a mixer on the bed of the truck 10" or so above the rear end. I robbed the bearing set, axle, and blade off an old lawn mower. I built a fancy (read time consuming) seal and fit the whole thing up and ran it around to see if there were any problems. Looked like it was going to work like a charm. Before I got to making my first batch a local farmer came in to feed his stock that were pasturing on the place and I was excited and showed and told him all about it. He looked at it and said "What happens when you put 100 gallons of water in it?" I looked at him like he was crazy and then realized what he meant. How dumb. I had left the springs on and as soon as I filled it with water it would have been heavy enough to push the tank down and rip the fancy bearing and axle right out of the bottom of the tank. I welded a strut from the axle to the frame to keep it stationary and it was fine.

I would do as Mile McCain does and weld a pipe right to the differential and a small superstructure to hold the tank. There are two good things that happens when you do this. One is that the height of the whole thing is down lower (easier on your back) and the second is the lack of need for the extra bearing and axle for the blade. This way you can attach the blade right to the shaft coming out of the rear end.

Also, I used a 3/4" bed of plywood on top of my structure. The mixer worked 4 years without problems and the tank is in perfect shape today. I read that some folks have had problems with the tank coming apart at the seams. My tank is a 100 gal stock tank that I bought new for this application. With the whole bottom supported it still looks new.

Here is a link to some pictures of my learning curve:
https://picasaweb.google.com/105920026820293846718/Papercrete

Remember KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid)
Ron

From: Spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net>
Date: Sunday, June 26, 2011, 10:33 AM
Yes, you should have the bed/tank attached to the frame so it does not move relative to the differential. You'll need to turn the differential so it points up instead of horizontal, and that usually involves some steel work since they aren't designed to mount that way. The bed will of course need a hole for the differential to stick through, and then a seal for that hole. If the differential doesn't reach into the bed then an extension MIGHT work if it is built very strong. Sealing around a moving shaft might be a problem. Maybe make the hole in the bed large enough to use an inner tube down to the top of the differential so all moving parts are inside. If your shaft extension is very long it might need a bearing near the top with the bearing in the mix, which is not so great for bearings.

The pickup bed might last longer than the cattle tanks and leak less. Corners might collect undigested paper clumps, maybe some baffles could prevent this, or even sheet metal screwed inside to curve the corner.

If you can take pictures underneath (or flip it over), details of how the axle is mounted, the suspension, stuff like that, then you will get lots of helpful advise. The more details, the better your advise will be!
spaceman 
On 6/26/2011 12:03 PM, thelandyachtaustin wrote:
I've read most everyone who's made tow-mixers start with a rear-end & build the trailer onto that...or incorporate that into a trailer, however you wanna say it.  But I've got (or have had access to, for a while) a trailer made from what looks like an old 3/4ton pickup-bed.  Heavy duty shocks & springs still in place (so the bed sits WAY up high from the rear-end).   Any thoughts on how I'd start modifying this thing to make a mixer out of it?  Am I gonna have to get those shocks off & drop the floor, or can anyone think of a way to "extend" the drive-shaft of the rear-end (to get into a tank sitting at the truck-bed level) once it's turned vertical?  Thoughts, considerations, suggestions all welcome!  

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

Re: [papercreters] water contamination of oil in rear end?

Dan,
Another thing to do when making your tow mixer is to remove the brakes entirely. I used mine for 3 years and then one wheel locked up going forward. It was fine driving backward but the blade didn't do much chopping and it was a real challenge heading down the driveway backward :) I thought a bearing had failed and tore the whole towmixer apart to build a new one. While doing that I decided to find just what had failed and pulled the wheel off the recalcitrant axle. It was a chore as the braked had seized on the drum. Bottom line, there were no bearings bad, rather a brake problem. It was an old (1950's) 9 bolt Ford rear end and I will use it again.

Also there is a vent somewhere on most rear ends and you can use it to be sure the whole rear end is full of oil right up to the bearing now at the top (normally horizontal facing forward). I took a squeeze ketchup bottle, fitted it with a section of vinyl tubing and sucked up a bottle at a time and injected it into the vent. Normally the vent is on top, but because the whole rear end is rotated 90 degrees it will probably be facing horizontal or even down a little. Fill the whole rear end with oil till it starts seeping out the top. I hammered a wooden plug into my vent, but you could easily put a short hose on the vent and using a couple of worm drive clamps to seal it.
Let us know how it works.
Ron

From: Spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net>
Date: Sunday, June 26, 2011, 6:03 PM
Mine started leaking oil fairly soon. After a few months I opened it up and replaced the oil/water emulsion with fresh oil. Then I used it for another eight years without worrying about it, eventually replaced the rear end because I lost an irreplaceable nut.

At the first papercreters gathering we replaced the oil in Judith's mixer because it was mixed with water. In both cases I saw no rust or unusual wear due to the water mix.

So to answer your question, the pinion shaft seal will leak both ways but it doesn't seem to be a problem. Not much oil into the pc, and the water in the oil seems benign.
spaceman  
On 6/26/2011 7:43 PM, danclarke95076 wrote:
Hi,  I thought I'd ask if anyone had had experience with the pinion shaft seal in the rear end letting water into the rear end and contaminating the grease in there.  I'm remembering a post about someone having oil come out, although I don't remember if they said just where it was leaking, and got to wondering if the pinion seal is proving adequate for keeping water out as well as oil in.  Thanks ahead, Dan     

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Sunday, June 26, 2011

Re: [papercreters] water contamination of oil in rear end?

Mine started leaking oil fairly soon. After a few months I opened it up and replaced the oil/water emulsion with fresh oil. Then I used it for another eight years without worrying about it, eventually replaced the rear end because I lost an irreplaceable nut.

At the first papercreters gathering we replaced the oil in Judith's mixer because it was mixed with water. In both cases I saw no rust or unusual wear due to the water mix.

So to answer your question, the pinion shaft seal will leak both ways but it doesn't seem to be a problem. Not much oil into the pc, and the water in the oil seems benign.

spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.  http://Starship-Enterprises.Net blog at http://Starship-Enterprises.Net/wordpress/

On 6/26/2011 7:43 PM, danclarke95076 wrote:

Hi,  I thought I'd ask if anyone had had experience with the pinion shaft seal in the rear end letting water into the rear end and contaminating the grease in there.  I'm remembering a post about someone having oil come out, although I don't remember if they said just where it was leaking, and got to wondering if the pinion seal is proving adequate for keeping water out as well as oil in.  Thanks ahead, Dan

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__,_._,___

[papercreters] water contamination of oil in rear end?

Hi,

I thought I'd ask if anyone had had experience with the pinion shaft seal in the rear end letting water into the rear end and contaminating the grease in there.

I'm remembering a post about someone having oil come out, although I don't remember if they said just where it was leaking, and got to wondering if the pinion seal is proving adequate for keeping water out as well as oil in.

Thanks ahead,
Dan

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[papercreters] water contamination of oil in rear end?

Hi,

I thought I'd ask if anyone had had experience with the pinion shaft seal in the rear end letting water into the rear end and contaminating the grease in there.

Thanks ahead,
Dan

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Re: [papercreters] Make a mixer from an old pickup-bed trailer

Yes, you should have the bed/tank attached to the frame so it does not move relative to the differential. You'll need to turn the differential so it points up instead of horizontal, and that usually involves some steel work since they aren't designed to mount that way. The bed will of course need a hole for the differential to stick through, and then a seal for that hole. If the differential doesn't reach into the bed then an extension MIGHT work if it is built very strong. Sealing around a moving shaft might be a problem. Maybe make the hole in the bed large enough to use an inner tube down to the top of the differential so all moving parts are inside. If your shaft extension is very long it might need a bearing near the top with the bearing in the mix, which is not so great for bearings.

The pickup bed might last longer than the cattle tanks and leak less. Corners might collect undigested paper clumps, maybe some baffles could prevent this, or even sheet metal screwed inside to curve the corner.

If you can take pictures underneath (or flip it over), details of how the axle is mounted, the suspension, stuff like that, then you will get lots of helpful advise. The more details, the better your advise will be!

spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.  http://Starship-Enterprises.Net blog at http://Starship-Enterprises.Net/wordpress/

On 6/26/2011 12:03 PM, thelandyachtaustin wrote:

I've read most everyone who's made tow-mixers start with a rear-end & build the trailer onto that...or incorporate that into a trailer, however you wanna say it.  But I've got (or have had access to, for a while) a trailer made from what looks like an old 3/4ton pickup-bed.  Heavy duty shocks & springs still in place (so the bed sits WAY up high from the rear-end).   Any thoughts on how I'd start modifying this thing to make a mixer out of it?  Am I gonna have to get those shocks off & drop the floor, or can anyone think of a way to "extend" the drive-shaft of the rear-end (to get into a tank sitting at the truck-bed level) once it's turned vertical?  Thoughts, considerations, suggestions all welcome!    ------------------------------------  Yahoo! Groups Links  <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/  <*> Your email settings:     Individual Email | Traditional  <*> To change settings online go to:     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join     (Yahoo! ID required)  <*> To change settings via email:     papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com      papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com  <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:     papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com  <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/    ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1388 / Virus Database: 1513/3727 - Release Date: 06/26/11

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[papercreters] Make a mixer from an old pickup-bed trailer

I've read most everyone who's made tow-mixers start with a rear-end & build the trailer onto that...or incorporate that into a trailer, however you wanna say it.

But I've got (or have had access to, for a while) a trailer made from what looks like an old 3/4ton pickup-bed. Heavy duty shocks & springs still in place (so the bed sits WAY up high from the rear-end).

Any thoughts on how I'd start modifying this thing to make a mixer out of it? Am I gonna have to get those shocks off & drop the floor, or can anyone think of a way to "extend" the drive-shaft of the rear-end (to get into a tank sitting at the truck-bed level) once it's turned vertical?

Thoughts, considerations, suggestions all welcome!

------------------------------------

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Friday, June 24, 2011

Re: [papercreters] Re: Interested, but not necessarily in making my own PC

Ammonia is a natural side efect of cement curing. It's more noticeable in
confined spaces and warm conditions.

Wayne

>
> The information I got said boric acid is used as a fire and
> insect retardant, up to 15% of the total weight iirc. I
> don't know if that would smell like ammonia. When I was
> using borax in my pc it did not smell bad.
>
> I mix outside but I don't want anything smelly in my papercrete. I
> was sitting here earlier thinking I should go blow $15 (after tax)
> on a package of cellulose insulation and see just how much it
> really makes, because I would find mixing in a concrete mixer in
> small batches very convenient for making panels. I already have a
> $12 bag of portland cement left over from the last project.
>
> Maybe different brands have different additives and out-gassing.
> What brand did you use, so I can avoid it, or at least compare the
> MSDS with others? Did it smell before it was wet? Did the smell go
> away as it dried?
> spaceman Johnny five - "Input - I need more Input!" All opinions
> expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon
> receipt of new information.
> On 6/24/2011 3:36 PM, countryatheartok wrote: I recently
> used the blown in insulation to do a small project. When mixing it in
> a 5 gal bucket using a regular PC mix formula, while standing right
> over the bucket inside a room the smell of Ammonia was very strong,
> strong enough to make me light headed. Don't know if it really is
> ammonia or borax, if you use this inside, you might want to vent the
> room.

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Re: [papercreters] Re: Back and ready

thank you

--- On Fri, 6/24/11, doris <yakishome@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: doris <yakishome@yahoo.com>
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Back and ready
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, June 24, 2011, 6:49 PM

Hey Ken glad you have someone to stand by your side that has the same dreams as you do.
Sounds like you have a great attitude about things.
Good luck and looking forward to seeing your project.

Doris and Ron

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[papercreters] Re: Back and ready

Hey Ken glad you have someone to stand by your side that has the same dreams as you do.
Sounds like you have a great attitude about things.
Good luck and looking forward to seeing your project.

Doris and Ron

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Re: [papercreters] Re: Interested, but not necessarily in making my own PC

The information I got said boric acid is used as a fire and insect retardant, up to 15% of the total weight iirc. I don't know if that would smell like ammonia. When I was using borax in my pc it did not smell bad.

I mix outside but I don't want anything smelly in my papercrete. I was sitting here earlier thinking I should go blow $15 (after tax) on a package of cellulose insulation and see just how much it really makes, because I would find mixing in a concrete mixer in small batches very convenient for making panels. I already have a $12 bag of portland cement left over from the last project.

Maybe different brands have different additives and out-gassing. What brand did you use, so I can avoid it, or at least compare the MSDS with others? Did it smell before it was wet? Did the smell go away as it dried?

spaceman  Johnny five - "Input - I need more Input!"  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.

On 6/24/2011 3:36 PM, countryatheartok wrote:

 I recently used the blown in insulation to do a small project. When mixing it in a 5 gal bucket using a regular PC mix formula, while standing right over the bucket inside a room the smell of Ammonia  was very strong, strong enough to make me light headed. Don't know if it really is ammonia or borax, if you use this inside, you might want to vent the room.

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

[papercreters] Re: Interested, but not necessarily in making my own PC

I recently used the blown in insulation to do a small project. When mixing it in a 5 gal bucket using a regular PC mix formula, while standing right over the bucket inside a room the smell of Ammonia was very strong, strong enough to make me light headed. Don't know if it really is ammonia or borax, if you use this inside, you might want to vent the room.

------------------------------------

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Re: [papercreters] Re: Back and ready

will do

--- On Fri, 6/24/11, Spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net> wrote:

From: Spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net>
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Re: Back and ready
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, June 24, 2011, 8:44 AM
Having a good woman by your side is a great advantage, and one that is into pc is a good bonus. Be sure to send pictures of your progress : )
spaceman

All opinions expressed or implied
are subject to change without notice
upon receipt of new information.

http://Starship-Enterprises.Net
blog at http://Starship-Enterprises.Net/wordpress/
On 6/23/2011 7:57 PM, bornofthehorses wrote:
Hey spaceman cool your still here to bad about slurry yes he did keep it going time will tell on the second round. but got a good woman by my side that has helped me in many ways and she digs pc thinks it's very cool. Time will tell later great one.
Ken



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Papercreters

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Re: [papercreters] Re: PC Project started in Jan of 2008

Monday, June 27, 2011

RE: [papercreters] Re: Make a mixer from an old pickup-bed trailer

Re: [papercreters] Re: Make a mixer from an old pickup-bed trailer

RE: [papercreters] Re: Make a mixer from an old pickup-bed trailer

[papercreters] Re: Make a mixer from an old pickup-bed trailer

RE: [papercreters] Interested, but not necessarily in making my own PC

Re: [papercreters] Interested, but not necessarily in making my own PC

Re: [papercreters] Make a mixer from an old pickup-bed trailer

Re: [papercreters] water contamination of oil in rear end?

Sunday, June 26, 2011

Re: [papercreters] water contamination of oil in rear end?

[papercreters] water contamination of oil in rear end?

[papercreters] water contamination of oil in rear end?

Re: [papercreters] Make a mixer from an old pickup-bed trailer

[papercreters] Make a mixer from an old pickup-bed trailer

Friday, June 24, 2011

Re: [papercreters] Re: Interested, but not necessarily in making my own PC

Re: [papercreters] Re: Back and ready

[papercreters] Re: Back and ready

Re: [papercreters] Re: Interested, but not necessarily in making my own PC

[papercreters] Re: Interested, but not necessarily in making my own PC

Re: [papercreters] Re: Back and ready

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