Saturday, December 10, 2011

Re: [papercreters] Slip Forming Question



In addition to what Bob posted and showed, I might add that only the time to make a new batch of slurry was necessary before the slip forms were moved.  I did not pour more than 2 consecutive layers before letting a day of drying take place.  Notice the water on the courses below.  I did not de-water my batches rather poured it right in the forms from the mixer.  There was a lot of shrinkage (top of pour dropping below the form top) as the water drained out but I kept filling with subsequent pours.  What you see in this photo is about one 120 gallon tow-mixer full of volume ready to be filled.  The wall is only 8" wide (my test structure).  Bob used steel forms because he had a source, I used old wood because I had that on hand.

https://picasaweb.google.com/105920026820293846718/Papercrete#5361288759916574098

In this photo you can see the beauty of this method where each successive layer is locked to the underlying layer because of the slot made from the ends of the forms.  If you use two-by stock that slot will be 3" wide.  The next layer has the form centered over the slot to fill it so slots are not lined up over each other.

https://picasaweb.google.com/105920026820293846718/Papercrete#5361289820488636642

From: trendawareness <trendlinesystems@gmail.com>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 9, 2011 5:18 AM
Subject: [papercreters] Slip Forming Question

 
In response to a previous post, it's been suggested that I try pouring PC between the open wall studs in my garage rather than molding blocks.

I think that would save me a lot of work.

But since I have no experience with slip forming PC, my question is how long should I leave the temporary forms up, and how do I know they're ready to be removed?

I take it actual times will vary, but should I plan on a couple of hours or a day?

Also, how soon before I can pour on top of a previous level?

Thanks





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