Friday, August 15, 2008

[papercreters] Re: New to the group

Greg,

I probably will either lap the joints about 6" or better use a
lockforming tool to fold and seal them seams. The nice thing about
roll metal is that it comes in very long lengths (100'plus) so any
vertical seams, other than those against door and window openings,
will be eliminated.

I've added an image to the photo folder showing a cutaway of the
structure. This is definitely a hybrid, no real loadbearing papercrete
here, but all the stick framing is derived from relatively inexpensive
materials (2x4 and OSB plywood)

bye,

Blake

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Greg House <ghunicycle@...> wrote:
>
> Interesting idea. How do you plan to secure & seal it between layers?
>
> Greg
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: geetus69 <frodopettus@...>
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 3:18:17 AM
> Subject: [papercreters] Re: New to the group
>
>
> Greg,
>
> Thanks, it's just basically a 30" wide roll of flashing mounted
> horizontally as a "siding." I've been looking at good ways to
> waterproof the exterior(plaster, rubberized paint) and have come to
> the conclusion that a more impervious material such as metal may cost
> a bit more in the beginning but will save on maintenance in the long
> run versus trying to seal the papercrete directly.
>
> This will just be a flexible skin affixed to a light timberframe
> structure and following the irregular surfaces of the papercrete
> exterior walls.
>
> My intentions are to cast the interior walls in place via slipform
> once the roof and exterior walls are up, (this is probably crazy)
>
> Anyway, I'll keep adding pics as the design evolves,
>
> take care,
>
> Blake
>
> In papercreters@ yahoogroups. com, Greg House <ghunicycle@ ...> wrote:
> >
> > Looks cool, thanks for posting. I take it the corrugated metal
> pieces are your forms?
> >
> > BTW, what is "aluminum roll coil" that you mentioned in your plan
> pictures?
> >
> > Greg
> __._,
>

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