IMNSHO the ideal is to mix right next to the final resting place of the pc and dump/drain the pc in to your form. PC is heavy when wet and requires a lot of work to move around, whether manually or with a pump/auger system. My current scheme is to use my spray washer in a 55 gallon drum that will be put on a stand right next to the work area so that after mixing I can just open a gate valve or elephant trunk (inner tube) and let the pc gravity feed into the form. The only lifting involved will be paper, portland cement, and other additives into the barrel.
Blocks require too much handling for my tastes. First you have to put the pc into the molds, then later remove the molds. Then you have to turn the blocks periodically while they dry. Next you should stack them at a convenient location. Eventually you move them to the construction area where you re stack them. Then you finally get to mortar them into place. At that point you are applying wet mortar onto dry blocks, which is not ideal for the best bonding.
Also, a slip formed wall will have fewer seams so should be stronger than small blocks. I typically have 4'x4' areas without seams. This is stronger than a 4'x4' area with seams every few inches.
Spaceman
JUDITH WILLIAMS wrote:
Good question. I hope someone has an answer for you as I would like to know more about poured papercrete as well. I also am looking for opinions/viewpoints/etc. as to what is the fastest and most efficient way to make a papercrete wall - blocks or poured in place (I have about half the number of blocks needed.__._,_.___
Sincerely, Judith
Visit my papercrete website at www.judith-l-williams.com.
There is one thing stronger than all the armies in the world; and that is an idea whose time has come. Victor Hugo 1802-1885
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