My battery dome was 1' thick pour with 6x6x10 and diamond lath on both sides to hold the paper in. It worked well for me. I mixed and pumped for about two weeks for my little 10' diameter dome. I think the effort I put into getting a tight framework to pump papercrete into helped me avoid the enormous cracking that others have seen. Lath is your friend!
Dad8 may be looking to pour everything in one large pour. At least alarge pour between each set of posts. Mikey Sklar has proven withhis Battery Room that large monolithic pours can be accomplishedsuccessfully.yes a monolithic pour between poles is what I wanted to do.however slip form might be more practical ?????Would love to hear more about Mikey Sklar success with this..--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "slurryguy" <slurryguy@...> wrote:Symantics, shmantics.I thought Dad8's use of the term "Pole Barn" was perfectlyacceptable. I never got the impression that he was describing thefunction of the structure with that term, but using it to create amental image of the style of contstuction that was being used to holdup the roof. Also, many people have converted Barn structures into ahome. Common practice is still to call those structures barns, eventhough the only animals inside are human (and maybe a canine orfeline or two.)There are significant differences in the manner of construction of aPole Barn and a Timber Frame.While the exact technical definition of Timber Frame constructiononly indicates the use of strutural wood posts and beams, it commonlyimplies an extensive use of impressive mortice and tenon joinery,those really awesome scarf joints, and wooden pegs holding a lotthings together. When done well, the structural timbers can be morethan engineering support, but a wonderful work of art in themselvesat the same time. When I think of timberframe, I think of thecarpentry, not just some poles and a simple roof.A pole barn is simply a bunch of posts (of whatever material) holdingup a roof. It implies none of the fancy old school carpentry. Ithink this is what Dad8 intended to convey.I thought Dad8's first post to this group was an excellent effort,and he should not be concerned about getting into a semantic argumentabout the exact technical meaning of words. He conveyed his meaningvery well."Slipforming" is by definition done in stages as Neal describes.Pour a layer. Wait for the layer to set. "Slip" the forms up. Pouranother layer. Repeat as needed.Dad8 may be looking to pour everything in one large pour. At least alarge pour between each set of posts. Mikey Sklar has proven withhis Battery Room that large monolithic pours can be accomplishedsuccessfully.Tim Pye's experience with large pours had lots of problems (hugecavernous cracks), UNTIL HE STARTED COMPRESSING THE PAPERCRETE.Both slipforming and large monolithic pours are viable techniques touse, but only when done properly. Compressing the papercrete withinan hour after the pour helps drastically with either method. Theforms must be built strong enough to withstand the compressionprocess without blowing out.--- In email@example.com, sire@ wrote:In the spirit of Slurryguy's admonition to help others, I'll add afew comments to his excellent commentary on dad's questions. Iadmire someone who is able to itemize his questions and logicallyaddress the various aspects of the project. However, coming fromsomeone who has read about papercrete till his eyes hurt, it seems toindicate that the general public has quite a few misconceptions aboutwhat papercrete is and how to use it in construction. There areothers in this group more qualified to comment on this project than Iam, but hopefully I will reinforce the points that SG made and add afew thoughts from my own understanding.Dad, when you say you are building a "pole barn", I thought thiswould literally be a barn, but it turns out that it will be adwelling, more like a getaway cabin for your wife and kids (withoutyou?). Getaway places are usually for the summer, but the mentionof wood heat implies winter use also, so perhaps this will be a year-round second home? The structure seems to be basically atimberframe with papercrete infill.Latex on the inside is optional but not necessary. Latex on theoutside would be far more beneficial almost required a part of thewaterproofing. As SG writes, borax or boric acid would best beapplied in a way that it would not drain away with the excess water,perhaps a spray coat on the outside after the walls have dried.Borax is commonly used in laundry and boric acid in the garden, sothis will not be a danger to the boys unless they are eating thepapercrete for dinner. :)Slipforming the walls and pouring them up to 8' would be fine, butit must be done in stages, as slipforming implies, probably 2' at atime. You will have to wait at least a few days between courses fordrying. Like adobe, stawbale, cob, etc., papercrete walls should bethick. I would say they should probably be at least 1' thick inorder to provide insulation and stability. Thick walls will alsomake unnecessary any reinforcement in the walls, which SG has alreadymentioned would be problematic anyway with papercrete shrinking awayfrom metal. Do not make the plywood forms waterproof and removethem as quickly as feasible to allow the walls to dry out as quicklyas possible.We have recently discussed again the advantages of papercrete as afloor, but if it is necessary to have this structure "just above theground", this may not be practical. In any case I do not see thereason you are thinking of using a plastic liner when pouring thepapercrete floor, nor can I imagine why you would want to cover thefloor with plywood because that seems unnecessary.There are very many reasons not to attempt a papercrete roof.Perhaps now you can intuit some of them, but if not they could bedetailed in a separate post if desired.Neal-------------- Original message --------------From: "dad8now" <mark_bal_christian@>I am new to PC and have been reading until my eyes hurt.I have a 17 acre all forest in Missouri, with little or no buildingcodes.The floor will be just above ground with skirting around theperimeter.I want to build a small pole barn for seasonal use using Six inchbeams and 8 FT tall wallsSo my PC wall will be 6" thick and 8" tall. And 10 FT wide betweenbeamsThere will be no load on the walls.I will latex paint the inside walls and leave the outside natural.Here is the PC recipe I'm considering using.1 part news print (DRY) by weight1 part Portland (DRY) by weight1/9 of a part hydrated lime (DRY) by weight????? boric acid for bug/ rot / fire retarding ???I want to pour the wall up right between the beams with removableforms on both sides.We will heat with wood.My wife and three small boys will be using this new get away.Here are my questions so far:1) Will chicken wire fastened in the center of the 6" beams beenough reinforcement since the walls bare no weight? Or should Iaddvertical rebar every 2 ft??2) Do I need the boric acid? And if so how much to be effectivebut not be hazardous to my little boys?3) How many days should I leave the plywood forms on to minimizeshrinking until walls cure?4) Would making the forms watertight prevent shrinking untilcured 5 days and then remove the forms?5) What R factor would this wall recipe probably have?6) Could I attach 6mil plastic liner to inside all around thewalls down to he ground and then use this same PC recipe as asubfloor and then cover with ½ plywood?7) Would a 6" thick PC 2/12 pitch roof need to be waterproofedor left natural? Or water proofed with marine grade polyurethanevarnish?thanks for this group,Dad8now------------------------------------Yahoo! Groups Links<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:<*> Your email settings:Individual Email | Traditional<*> To change settings online go to:(Yahoo! ID required)<*> To change settings via email:<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: