On Dec 6, 2007, at 1:34 AM, ERIC RANDALL wrote:
Also, you mentioned using lime. I'm assuming you're referring to
hydrated lime, right? Are you using it dry, out of the bag? or
are you slacking it first?
++++++++++++++++++++++
Hi Eric- remember that long talk I gave on lime and uses, that you
video taped at ITSA in Lorrane in 05? sill have that tape?
Hydrated lime is already slaked when you buy the dry powder bag ( 50#
sacks) Slaking only happens to hot quicklime to MAKE it into powder
lime. Most of you in the US [the general public]- cannot get access
to quick lime- because it is dangerous to newbies to handle correctly.
There is some advantage to making your own lime from quicklime, but NOT
for such as basic use as papercrete additive.
There are very high ASTM standards for lime production in the US.. so
any hydrated high calcium or dolomitic lime you buy is perfectly fine
for all applications.
+++++
You add water to the powder lime in a large tub or drum, to soak it, it
is now a lime putty. Keep 2-3 inches of water over the lime putty to
keep it from recarbonating back to limestone. If it turns crunchy
around the drum edges you can use that hardened lime as 'aggregate' in
mixes- when you use the wet putty you remove it from a drum with a
colander to let the water drain back. do not stir it in ( as with
paint) , not needed.
the milky water is a limewash, and can be used as is to wash or
prepare a wall for lime plaster.
as Merrill does, hydrated lime can be mixed dry with other dry
ingredients too.
it is soaked just to make is ready to use when mixing in sands, etc for
plaster.
For papercrete or earthen stabilization wet or dry is OK. but the
longer you soak the lime the more pliant it is, and the trouble with
mixing it dry is the lime may not get the water is needs to do its
best. but for the 'rough' papercrete mixes I see no harm in dry
mixing- just mix LONGER so all lime is wetted
Charmaine Taylor Publishing
STOREWIDE SALE on Books & Videos
www.dirtcheapbuilder.com
Tel: 1-707-441-1632 PST Eureka, Calif.
