Thursday, July 10, 2008

Re: [papercreters] Re: Papercrete Floors

Making papercrete tiles first and then setting them dry would avoid any potential problems with a wood underlayment, but without knowing the particulars of your situation it is difficult to say more.   The subfloor is usually OSB which is pretty hardy, but I don't know how long it would resist moisture without changing in some way.   You could lay tar paper or plastic sheeting on top of the subfloor to avoid the water problem.   When I first posted this I envisioned that it would be for those people on the ground, like pouring a slab on the earth, but it sounds like you are on the second floor or that your first floor is raised in some way, perhaps a pier foundation.   In any case 1/2" is far too thin for papercrete tiles.
 
Neal
 
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "bdkcu" <bdkcu@juno.com>

I was hoping to make 18" square, 1/2" thick papercrete tiles (molds
are available for a slate look. I thought that by making the tiles
then installing it would prevent the problem of long dry time or a
reaction in my subfloor (whatever was under the carpet - looks like
masonite) Does this sound doable to you?

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, sire@... wrote:
>
> While there are legitimate reasons why people do not like staight
concrete floors, they can be made beautiful with colorful acid stains
and are increasingly found in high end offices, hotels, and homes.
Nothing surpasses them for enjoying radiant heat. Sure there have
been some plumbing problems with copper pipe that reacted or leaked,
so copper is not recommended in a slab. That is why pex is
recommend and using pex there will be no such problems.
>
> However, if someone wants radiant heat and prefers something other
than a slab, I will provide a suggestion. I am basically an "out of
the box" thinker. If I told you all the things I have done
that "they" said couldn't be done, it would surprise you. However,
I also have one foot still in the box. I can go check with that
foot and it will tell me if my idea will work or if it won't.
Sometimes that foot doesn't tell me for sure or give me a clear
message, so I will go try my idea anyway. Some people are good at
floating out imaginative but unworkable ideas, and people who have
some common sense about what works can be a valuable resource for
such people.
>
> So let me suggest an "out of the box" idea that is very appropriate
for this group --- a papercrete floor. Perhaps it has been
mentioned before and thus it would be an "in the box" idea for this
group. Some will appreciate the advantages of a papercrete floor
immediately, while others will wan t to have some reasons, so I will
list some:
>
> 1. A Papercrete Floor will still provide an excellent medium for
radiant heat, somewhat less than a concrete floor due to the
insulation value, but still acceptable.
> 2. It will provide more flexibility and give than a concrete or
tile floor.
> 3 It will provide an excellent medium for acid staining or other
creative finishes.
> 4 The mixture can be fine tuned to provide custom degrees of
flexibility (which I call sponginess) vs. hardness. It can even be
made to have more give in it than wood.
> 5 All the other usual advantages of papercrete: do it
yourself, cheap, etc. There is no need to spend $10,000 on a custom
floor when you can make it yourself.
>
> One of the only downsides is that it will take time to dry, so
don't close the windows and doors while it is doing so. :) Since
the slab is usually the first thing done in construction, t his should
not be an issue.
>
> Neal
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "Robert & Connie" <losee04@...>
> We looked at a drop-dead gorgeous adobe home w/floors made from
road base. They looked good and thought I had hubby talked into that
and outa slab. I hate slab! Can tell you nightmares of plumbing gone
> bad in slab. But woe is me, Hubby's talking slab again.
>
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