Hi Harold
Eddie Bishop here,(30 years master plumber) Harold first do you have the time to do it. Second find out what the frost level is in your area. This will estimate of how deep the water line should be; unless it is a new line you have installed. If it is a black roll /or galvanized pipe I would suggest you replace it all as soon as possible. If it is PVC check to see if it is schedule 40. Regussrdless of which it is when water pipe goes under or penetrate a concrete it should have a larger diameter pipe to sleeve it. You can go toHD or Lowes and buy a pipe probe for about $25 if you really need it. Locate the pipe and dig a little below it, clear the water out; all this being done with the water off. next have some one to turn on the water just slightly enough to see the meter turn-- what you will be looking for is which side of the ditch does the water come from and dig in this direction. You will know when you reach the leak because it will most likely have eroded a hole in the ground. If it is copper use a fitting called a "Shark Bite coupling" the will need to be able to move enough to slide them on. If it is PVC use a sliding/ telescoping coupling and 2 regular couplings---USE ONLY PVC RATED GLUE-- clean with a clear cleaner and glue > If black roll 2 insert couplings and 8 clamps 2 on each end.. If galvanizes get out the saw/ if you have a saw zaw then great but do not cut the pipe straight through in one line. Stop just short of cutting through and cut a V or wedge out before cutting through the pipe . This will prevent the pipe from shaking very much as you cut all the way through. One side of the ditch will need to be dug out about 2 feetso you can slightly pull up. next get a pair of channel lock or pliers and slightly grab the pipe on both cut ends and go all away aroud the pipe to remove the scaled rust. You will need a galvanized dresser coupling. Buy one from a plumbing supplier--the quality is is better than HD or Lowes. Clean the pipe the total length of the coupling on both sides with the channel locks then wipe it with a rag the remove any loose scales. Unscrew both nuts and remove the rubber washers; be aware that some have an additional metal friction washer next to the nut. Start buy pulling up on the pipe just enough to slide on the nut;if it stops this just indicates where there is rust that still needs to be removed. Slide the nut back far enogh to equal the lengthof the center piece. Next slide on the rubber washer and friction washer if there is one. Then slide on the center piece the do the same for the other side; only slide it back half the length of the center piece. pull the ceter piece over to it and hand tighten. Slide the other nut and washer over and hand tighten. This last nut and washer may need some help; hold the channel locks behind the metal nut grabbing around the pipe loosely and tap the channel locks with a hammer until it meets the center piece. Then hand tighten. Finally hold the center piece with one pair of channel locks while tightning the nuts; do not allow the center piece to move while tightning. If you have a leak too large form the middle to cover you will need a short piece of galvanized pipe and 2 dresser couplings. Most likely it will be 3/4 inch or 1/2 inch---GOOD LUCK From: Harold "Hal" Schmidt <haroldschmidt@swbell.net> |
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