Papercreters: [papercreters] Birdbath -was- Re: very fine paper pulp

Monday, July 28, 2008

[papercreters] Birdbath -was- Re: very fine paper pulp

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "slurryguy" <slurryguy@...>
wrote:
>
> Welcome to the group, Susan.
>
> Nice birdbath.
>
> How difficult is it to keep clean? Do droppings stick to it?

I get a few bird droppings, not many, and those are easily taken care
of with a toothbrush. I guess my birds are pretty polite.
>
> Please keep sharing and helping others. You might find a few ideas
> here that can help you also. Do you have more pictures that you
can
> post that show the process you use to sculpt with your custom
version
> of papercrete?

I definitely will keep reading and learning. Don't expect I'll ever
be in a position to build a papercrete house, but the process
fascinates me and there's sure to be some tricks that might be useful
for the sculpture I do.

I will take some digital photos of the next batch of papercrete clay
I make and of it's application. And I'll see if I can make some notes
and get a more definitive recipe, too.

Thanks for all the nice comments about my work.

Susan
>
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "sryanart" <sryanart@> wrote:
> >
> > --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "ngrdh" <hnegaard@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > I am looking for suggestions on how to get a very finely ground
> > slurry paper pulp. I don't
> > > want the normal bumps and pieces that normal papercrete has;
I'd
> > like it to be very smooth
> > > and finely chopped so you would not even know that it is paper.
> > >
> > Hello:
> >
> > I was going to start with a more formal introduction--I am the
> Susan
> > Ryan who has been mentioned recently on this list--but I work
with
> a
> > version of pulp that produces a clay that gives me a nice
> > hard,surface.
> >
> > This is not, however, realistic for large quantities.
> >
> > Very quickly--
> >
> > 1. I use torn newspaper--torn to about 2" by 2". Believe it or
not,
> > size makes a difference. Movement in water helps to break down
the
> > fibers smoothly. Shredded newspaper actually seems to take longer
> to
> > break down.
> >
> > 2. I cover the newspaper with water and soak 1-3 days.
> >
> > 3. I bring the newspaper water to a boil on the stove and then
> > (carefully) break it up into a smooth gray pulp (looks like gray,
> > fluffy cream of wheat) using a paint mixer attachment on an
> electric
> > drill. There can't be too much paper in the water or the
newspaper
> > won't move properly and break down. Too much water, and it moves
> > around too much and doesn't break down easily either.
> >
> > 4. Once cooled, I slop a few handfulls at a time into a cotton
dish
> > rag and twist it up to squeeze most of the water out.
> >
> > 5. To this semi-moist pulp I add: Elmers white glue and a little
> > vermiculite and then knead with my hands. Depending on the feel
of
> > the clay, I can add a little more water, a little more glue,
and/or
> a
> > little more vermiculite.
> >
> > 6. Once I have a clay that fels nice, I throw on a dusting of
> > portland cement and mix in with my hands. The grittiness of the
> > cement seems to help tear the fibers into a finer clay.
> >
> > At least I think this is how I do it. :>) It's a lot like
cooking...
> > I don't have a definitive recipe. I mix by feel and sight. The
glue
> > makes the clay silky and workable, but too much makes it too
> stickly
> > to work. Too much water makes the clay too sloppy and results in
> too
> > much shrinkage. Too dry and the clay is unworkable. Vermiculite
can
> > dry up clay that's too wet, but too much can make it lumpy.
> >
> > Sometimes I add Plaster of Paris or Rock Hard water putty to the
> clay
> > and this gives me a finished product that has a nice, hard
surface.
> > It can be sawed and sanded.
> >
> > One critical element in getting a smooth finished surface is in
> > letting the clay dry more slowly (not direct heat--like with a
> lamp)
> > and in keeping the water content down.
> >
> > A few years ago I found through the papercreters site and was
> > absolutely impressed and charmed by the wonderful structures you
> all
> > were building. That's when I decided to try adding portland
cement
> to
> > my clay. All I had to go by was some comment from one of
> > the "builders" that it only takes a small amount of cement in the
> > slurry.
> >
> > So, when I added cement to my clay I called it papercrete--for
lack
> > of a better name. I hope this is OK and doesn't step on
anyobody's
> > toes.
> >
> > I messed around a little with papercrete because I was looking
for
> > something that could hold up to being outside. Don't know if I
got
> > that something or not. I am definitely still experimenting.
> >
> > However, in regards to the birdbath I made out of papercrete--I
> used
> > a silicon-based exterior water sealer on it. Sealed the raw PC
with
> > it and then applied coats of sealer with artists oils added to
make
> > stains. It held up well through last summer, though some moisture
> was
> > wicked up through the feet, but not in any way that damaged
either
> > finish of form. I took it in for the winter and put it back
outside
> > recently.
> >
> > Yes, I did worry about the birds taking water from something that
> was
> > sealed with this stuff, but I thought that once it had dried it
> would
> > not be a danger.
> >
> > I am definitly no expert with papercrete. I have done a lot more
> work
> > with the regular paper pulp and know much more about that. But if
I
> > can answer any questions, I'll be glad to give it a shot.
> >
> > BTW. This is my first post. Ever--anywhere. So I hope I have not
> done
> > anything inappropriate.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Susan
> >
> >
> > >
> >
>