A2B Research and Development, LLC
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tomhay@verizon.net
Gypsy,
(Not an expert, but maybe some will update my comments.)
Three reasons not to put blue board in the middle:
1. Blue board costs more than papercrete.
2. While blue board insulates, so does papercrete.
3. While the blue board will stop moisture from moving from outside the house to the inside, the moisture that you generate inside the house - cooking, showers, etc. will not be able to "get out".
Unless you are willing to get really serious about building a system to remove moisture from the living space, I would not do it.
I think the best moisture solution is three steps also:
1. Keep the wall's feet dry. Build a stub wall and put the papercrete on top of it so ground moisture can not get to wall.
2. Keeps the wall's shoulders dry. Have a substantial overhang of the roof.
3. Let the papercrete dry and then put an earth plaster on both the inside and outside. When that dries, a whitewash on the outside.
Bobby
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "overogypsy" <overogypsy@...> wrote:
>
> THANK YOU Slurryguy......What a wonderful post. That answered SO many question that we had.
> I should have mentioned in the post that we are try to do this as cheap as possible but do it right. So we decided to possibly use that "style" of house but use post like you would use in a pole barn. They would be covered with the wall construction. Would love to have a timerframe but the cost is prohibitive.
> In this researching phase we are also looking into doing a round house using the pole construction and filling in between with PC using a slip form. Both of us LOVE round houses. Mandala in Canada has a wonderful looking round and also Deltec has some great ideas. We checked into Deltec a few years ago but it was way too costly for us. There are several in this area and everyone loves them. The only complant that I heard was about the light. But Mandala take care of that with the center sky light.
> We would like to have the poles set in cement and also do a four inch slab with a one foot riser wall for just the reason you mentioned.
> One question my wife had was would it be possible (given the moisture issue) to put insulation blue board inside the middle of the wall when it is poured ? So the PC would poured on both sides and move the form up the wall as the wall is being built. That way the board would would help prevent any moisture from entering in the wall from the outside and also give extra R value. Not sure if this has been addressed anywhere.
> Also we thought where possible to mount the door and window frames next to the post for added support.
> Thank you again.
> We welcome ANY ideas This is going to be a wonderful project but we want to get all our info clear so we do not have any major hick-ups.
>
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "overogypsy" <overogypsy@> wrote:
> >
> > Thank you for the info. That gives me some good ideas.
> > Yes it is always unpredictable here as far as weather goes.
> > We usually have wet springs, mild to hot summers (hot for us hahaha)
> > and then 20 below around Feb.
> > Tow questions. When you say "plaster" what are you talking about (ingredients)
> > also, When you get to the top for the last foot or so how do you do that if your roof beams are in place already ?
> > Sorry for all the silly questions.....Just want to do it correct teh first time.
> >
> > --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, spaceman <Spaceman@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I looked at nwjoinery.com but didn't see the salt box house plan. Maybe
> > > it is in the downloadable pdf.
> > >
> > > If you are using wooden posts, wood has a good R value. You would need
> > > to be able to seal the joint between papercrete and wood.
> > >
> > > If I were infilling between posts I would use a slip form and not bother
> > > with blocks. Usually a plaster topcoat is applied over blocks (as you
> > > plan to do) and they are concealed anyway. Slip-forming is a big labor
> > > saver over blocks. Mix, dump or pump, and you're done. With blocks you
> > > mix, mold, turn for drying, move and stack, mix mortar, place the blocks
> > > with mortar. Every step is added labor. You can do 1' lifts with
> > > slip-forms, giving it a little set time between lifts. To get enough dry
> > > time you probably needed to start months ago. The good news is that
> > > freezing doesn't seem to affect my papercrete, the bad news is that wet
> > > papercrete isn't very good insulation.
> > >
> > > I was camping in MT and on the 4th of July I had to break ice to get a
> > > morning cup of tea. Yeah, it gets cold there :)
> > >
> > > spaceman
> > >
> > > On 6/22/2013 1:47 PM, overogypsy wrote:
> > > > I was looking through all the post and could not find any DETAILED instruction (except for country ???) to tell us how to do what we are trying to do and if it will work.
> > > > This is what we are trying to do.
> > > > We are going to build a pole barn (house) and infill between the space with PC blocks. It will be a two story 35X35 house with clerestory windows. Like the one shown here.
> > > >
> > > > Salt Box House Plan Has Clerestory Windows For Passive Solar Heating
> > > > nwjoinery.com
> > > >
> > > > Our question is. If we fill in the space between the posts wouldn't we lose the R value at the posts ?
> > > > Also, if we spray PC on the inside and outside of the PC walls how do we keep with from gathering moisture in the wall as many others have mentioned. What would be a better finish that the PC to protect from moisture?
> > > > We live in MT and it gets rather cold here :-(
> > > > Thank you for the help
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ------------------------------------
> > > >
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -----
> > > > No virus found in this message.
> > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > > > Version: 2013.0.3345 / Virus Database: 3199/6431 - Release Date: 06/22/13
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
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