I had similar thoughts about using strong window and door bucks, have them ready to stick right in there as soon as the opening is cut. I seem to remember gypsum (like structolite) as an additive to make papercrete stick to wood. I bought some but then never did use it. Where my papercrete meets wood there has been a bit of separation so I think it wouldn't hurt to try the plaster.
Sincerely, Judith
Visit my papercrete website at www.judith-l-williams.com.
The world would stop if it were run
By those who say "It can't be done".
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: texasweldinginspector@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 13:46:39 +0000
Subject: [papercreters] Cutting Window Openings -was- Re: Post a question.
You should be able to cut out your wall just have your supporting
incerts ready to place in, remember hard rock miners drilled and dug
out tunnels in mountains and as they went placed overhead supports. I
seem to remember something about using a plaster of paris mix to seal
wood to PC. Cut overhead to fit snug and two uprights BIG hammer
tight. Should hold up everything that your uprights will stand. But
remember they must have a strong base. It you have room place a
bottom board under they. Hope this helps.
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com , "slurryguy" <slurryguy@...>
wrote:
>
> I can't say I've built a papercrete wall and cut out an opening
like
> you describe.
>
> In my opinion, the process should work reasonably well, as long as
> the particular papercrete recipe in question is reasonably easy to
> cut. Do I remember correctly that you talked about your blocks
being
> easy to cut? I don't recall how the pumice impacted cutting.
>
> I highly recommend using some kind of support. Lintels or window
> bucks seem to make sense.
>
> I also recommend that you cut the openings and place the support
> structure in place before any significant loads are put on top of
the
> wall. If you wait to cut the opening until after roof loads are
> applied, you may get some sagging before you can put the supports
in
> place. If you are going to put some kind of box beam on top of the
> wall, I recommend putting that beam in place before cutting the
> window/door openings.
>
> Do you have an existing papercrete wall that you plan to tear
down?
> Can you try an experimental window cut in that wall right now?
> Perhaps that will give you better answers?
>
> Another testing strategy. Perhaps you can try your favorite window
> cutting technique on one wall as you build to find out how well it
> works before committing to doing it that way for every opening on
> every other wall?
>
> For what it's worth, that's my opinion. (Put my opinion in a sack,
> and it's worth the value of the empty sack.) (I'll let Spaceman
> explain the origin of the original quote I modified. hehehe)
>
>
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com , JUDITH WILLIAMS
> <williams_judith@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > I would like to re-ask a question I asked a couple of weeks ago.
> Does anyone have experience building an entire wall (slip form or
> block) and then cutting out the doors and windows? I am wondering
> what is done about lintels.
>
incerts ready to place in, remember hard rock miners drilled and dug
out tunnels in mountains and as they went placed overhead supports. I
seem to remember something about using a plaster of paris mix to seal
wood to PC. Cut overhead to fit snug and two uprights BIG hammer
tight. Should hold up everything that your uprights will stand. But
remember they must have a strong base. It you have room place a
bottom board under they. Hope this helps.
--- In papercreters@
wrote:
>
> I can't say I've built a papercrete wall and cut out an opening
like
> you describe.
>
> In my opinion, the process should work reasonably well, as long as
> the particular papercrete recipe in question is reasonably easy to
> cut. Do I remember correctly that you talked about your blocks
being
> easy to cut? I don't recall how the pumice impacted cutting.
>
> I highly recommend using some kind of support. Lintels or window
> bucks seem to make sense.
>
> I also recommend that you cut the openings and place the support
> structure in place before any significant loads are put on top of
the
> wall. If you wait to cut the opening until after roof loads are
> applied, you may get some sagging before you can put the supports
in
> place. If you are going to put some kind of box beam on top of the
> wall, I recommend putting that beam in place before cutting the
> window/door openings.
>
> Do you have an existing papercrete wall that you plan to tear
down?
> Can you try an experimental window cut in that wall right now?
> Perhaps that will give you better answers?
>
> Another testing strategy. Perhaps you can try your favorite window
> cutting technique on one wall as you build to find out how well it
> works before committing to doing it that way for every opening on
> every other wall?
>
> For what it's worth, that's my opinion. (Put my opinion in a sack,
> and it's worth the value of the empty sack.) (I'll let Spaceman
> explain the origin of the original quote I modified. hehehe)
>
>
>
> --- In papercreters@
> <williams_judith@
> >
> >
> > I would like to re-ask a question I asked a couple of weeks ago.
> Does anyone have experience building an entire wall (slip form or
> block) and then cutting out the doors and windows? I am wondering
> what is done about lintels.
>
Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games Trivia Contest Find out how. __._,_.___
Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe
__,_._,___
