Hi Jason,
I built a 300' papercrete fence last summer using tilt up panels. I've heard others have
tried this style (none on the list), but I've not seen any finished projects.
You can see a photo of my fence here:
Also I think this video explains the process I had used best.
To answer you questions.
- I don't think a tilt wall is a good idea. The slab cannot dry out fast enough and the
second person being required to lift and move the slab will destroy any budget.
- I used walls up to 4' x 8' being 4" thick. Those were heavy and clumsy. Most of my fence
is made from them. I had also poured 2' x 8' and 1' x 8' which were much easier to deal
with. Since you want to be 6" thick I suggest doing 2' x 8' slabs as your maximum. Also 4'
x 4' was a nice size square.
- Reinforcement of the inside is necessary. Rebar will add too much weight and cost if you
are doing a lot of panels. I really liked using found sticks. We have a lot of salt cedar by
the river which I collected and placed in the center of each panel while pouring.
- Reinforcement outside the panel helps a lot. I used 4" wide metal framing studs 25
gauage thickness. the framing studs are easy to cut and screw onto the panel providing a
strong encasement so that moving the panel is possible, as well as stacking them. The
cost of screws and framing studs can also destroy a budget.
- The PC will shrink from your forms so you will not have a option of leaving it attached. I
would normally pour 10 panels a day and pop the form made from 2x6 lumber after 10
minutes of sitting.
- I used railroad ties space every 8' on center to tie my walls together. Then I would drill
through the panel into the rail tie with a heavy lag screw. I would also stack panels on
each other when I need more height. Lag screws also will destroy your budget.
- PC will not dry well on a concrete slab. I would put a few inches of sand above a slab or
even better dry it on a piece of ground. Shade cloth works great for fast drainage. It is
critical that you have excellent drainage when doing panels because they take one week in
hot dry weather to cure enough to be moved. If it rains at all while the slab is drying you
will need to wait a additional 7 days.
-
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Jason" <svobodajason@...> wrote:
>
> Hello All,
>
> Great site!
> I am looking for some information concerning PC and tilt wall constuction.
> Assuming I use a wall thickness of 6" and it is not a weight bearing wall.
> Is tilt wall a good idea?
> How large of a wall can I pour and still be able to handle with two men?
> Will the wall need any reinforcement inside for added strength?
> Is it best to leave the form attached or use the PC without the form.
> If used without the form, how do you separate the PC from the form?
> If used without the form, how do you ties the walls together?
> While the PC is drying on the concrete slab, what keeps it from sticking to
> the slab?
> Does anyone have any photos of some tilt wall construction using PC?
>
> I am a newbie so I apologize if this has been covered before and thanks
> ahead of time for any info that you folks can provide.
>
> Regards!
> Jason Svoboda
>
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