Adding acrylic to bulk is not affordable, still it works good in a
skim coat to add elastic modulous - in my case I am working with
exsposed domes so I paint the outside with several coats of semigloss
to get the water to run off - if you have overhanges papercrete is
more forgiving--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, JUDITH WILLIAMS
<williams_judith@...> wrote:
>
>
> If I want to use papercrete blocks as your stemwall and you want
them to be water resistant you say to use latex paint. It just so
happens I was given many gallons of latex paint. Do you mean to add
the paint to the mix (in what ratio?) or to paint the blocks. I was
thinking of adding it and also painting the wall after it's set. Am I
nuts or what? Also I agree with you about the aggregate. I've been
using pumice fines and feel they are a great improvement over sand. I
understnd there is also a perlite plant not far from here. I'd love to
try that too. It's the light weight and insulative value that are my
favorite things about papercrete. Once you have your mixing method and
equipment, working with papercrete is a whole lot of fun.Sincerely,
Judith Visit my papercrete website at www.judith-l-williams.com."Never
be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark.
Professionals, on the other hand, built the Titanic." Author unknown.
>
>
> To: papercreters@...: clyde@...: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 14:00:19
+0000Subject: [papercreters] Water Resistance
>
>
>
>
> This is a subject that comes up regularly - Maybe this will help
-where the paper in papercrete does take on moisture, it also gives
itup very fast . The culprit for holding on to that water is the
excesslime (calcium carbonate) left from incomplete crystalisation of
thePortland Cement. Later the lime will unite with water and
carbondioxide, from the atmosphere and cause efflorescence on the
surface ofthe papercrete. This can be ameliorated by combining
Pozzalon in yourmix , making the papercrete give up the water easier,
when it does getwet. Concrete stem walls defeat the advantage of
insulating all theway to the ground. In fact papercrete generally
requires no foundationat all, as it is monolithic and self supporting.
Most important is tokeep water away to start with (wide overhangs,
drainage away from thebase and in my case LATEX (( MEANING ACRYLIC
PAINT)) Once I beganusing pozzalon I could no longer use Drylock
masonry sealer, it reactswith lime and the pozzalon had already used
it all up.There is another problem worth mention here- that of TOO
MUCH WATER TOSTART WITH- Regardless of your brick mix, all bricks
should be drybefore they are used - Mixes can be enhanced radically
with theaddition of aggregate (without loss of insulation value,as
proved byBarry Fullers tests of my brick) I am an old fart and sand
got heavyso I switched to lightweight aggregate (Perlite), which is
hollow andinsulating also. I shipped the perlite 600 miles with less
footprintthan moving sand- P.S.- Do not be misled by purists insisting
thatlime is better - not in this case -Clyde - www.evesgarden.org
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> http://biggestloser.msn.com/
>
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