I agree that leaving one wall of your chicken coop untreated would be
unwise.
I'm sure you already know this, but I think it is worthwhile to
review "standard" construction practices for a stick frame structure.
The standard practice is to have a concrete stem wall that rises well
above the finished grade. Usually around a foot above finish grade,
but it can vary. Then a "sill sealer" is applied. Modern sill sealer
is a polyethylene foam sheet. Old school sill sealer was a layer of
tar paper. In termite prone areas a metal termite barrier is often
applied with the sill sealer. After the sill sealer, a pressure
treated sill plate is put down, then the standard stud wall is built on
top of that.
The logic behind those standard practices is to keep the moisture
vulnerable wood up and out of the way of water close to the ground.
Clearly Nori is attempting to achieve similar results.
To mirror that in papercrete seems to make sense. In that case,
working from the ground up, use a concrete stemwall, topped with a thin
(1" or so?) latex and extra cement enriched sill sealer layer of
papercrete, followed by a moderately thin (2"-4"??) sill plate layer of
extra cement enriched papercrete, followed by a normal papercrete wall.
It also seems logical that a Rub-R-Slate layer could be used instead of
the latex enriched layer. Asphalt Emulsion in papercrete sounds like a
thick tarpaper to me.
These comments are all untested, but I hope they illustrate how we can
try to take full advantage of the wisdom behind the tried and tested
standard construction techniques, while using different materials to
implement them.
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "ElfNori" <elf@...> wrote:
>
> <snip>
> So what are our best ideas for treating the lowest layer? I'll make
a 2"
> stemwall on one side, painting the top with something to create an
> impervious layer, then putting plain papercrete on the top of that
wall.
> What are the preferences for the mix for the first layers of the other
> walls?
> <snip>
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