Hello Howard, welcome to the group.
There are a lot of posts in our archives on this topic, but it is worth
reviewing again.
Since you are experienced in construction, let me begin by saying.
PAPERCRETE IS NOT CONCRETE. That may seem over simple, but many
experienced veterans make this mistake of treating papercrete according
to the rules they have learned and used for years and years for the
handling of concrete. These materials act drastically different in
many ways.
It helps to think of papercrete as a WOOD PRODUCT not as a masonry
product.
A good place to start is to mix up a small batch in a bucket. Use a
system similar to what you might use to mix up grout or drywall mud.
The real difference is that you will want to use a blade that has been
sharpened. That will allow you to chop up the paper. There are
several pictures in our photos section that you can use to get an
idea. DULL THE OUTSIDE CORNERS OF YOUR BLADE. This will help prevent
it from cutting through the side of your bucket. WEAR HEAVY BOOTS!!!
The reasons should be obvious, but here is a post that explains why in
detail:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/message/1509
Please be safe.
There are a wide variety of mix recipes. They each will have slightly
different properties. Some are better insulators than others. Some
have greater strength. Some are water resistant, while others wick
water like a sponge.
Here is a very simple mix suitable for a 5 gallon bucket. It uses no
fancy ingredients.
1. Begin with about 2.5 gallons of water.
2. Add 5 lbs of Type I/II cement powder.
3. Mix 1 minute.
4. Add 2.5 lbs of newsprint.
5. Mix with your drill and sharp blade for 15 minutes, or until you get
a very uniform greyish oatmeal consistency.
6. Pour the slurry into a form. (A simple frame of scrap lumber is
fine. I suggest something approximating 8"x8" built from 2x6 lumber or
10"x10" built from 2x4 lumber. The size isn't critical, just
approximate that size from whatever scraps you have laying around.)
7. Allow the water to drain out. The form can be set on top of a bed
of sand, or on top of a window screen to allow the water to drain.
8. After a couple of hours, remove the wooden frame, but don't move the
wet slurry around.
9. DO NOT HANDLE OR TRY TO MOVE THE BLOCK FOR AT LEAST A WEEK.
Overhandling wet papercrete causes it to crumble or crack. At first it
will look like the stuff is completely useless. GIVE IT TIME. It will
not begin to acquire any significant strength until it gets close to
dry. You'll be shaking your head the whole time muttering, "This stuff
can't possibly work."
10. Post a message to papercreters and tell us about your efforts.
Pictures would be good too.
11. After a week, carefully test the block to see if it is dry enough
to be self supporting. If you're not sure, wait another week and test
again.
12. Post a message to papercreters and give us an update about what
you think. (another picture?)
13. Once the block is strong enough, carefully turn it over to help it
dry on the other side.
14. After 3 weeks or so, the block should be very dry and
lightweight. It will remind you of styrofoam, but be a little heavier
and a lot stronger.
15. Post a message to Papercreters and brag about your success!
Note: The bucket method works great for a first experiment, but it is
a very crappy, laborious, and time consuming way to make very much
quantity. To make enough papercrete to build a structure, you'll want
to build a big mixer.
I hope this helps.
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "howard2252" <howard2252@...>
wrote:
>
> Good morning everyone. This is really going to sound very dumb. I
just
> stumbled onto and joined your group. Even though I have been a
> builder/remodeler for 38 years I have not yet done work with
> papercrete. Would you be so kind as to give one or more basic
> formulas and mixing procedures. Thank you. Howard
>
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