Thursday, January 31, 2013

Re: [papercreters] Re: Papercrete siding?



Hello All,


i keep wondering if anyone has tried substituting a Magnesium Phosphate cement for the portland in the

papercrete mix? This stuff, marketed as Grancrete or Ceramicrete, is a chemically bonded ceramic. It was developed by

Argonne labs to use in sequestering nuclear waste so is waterproof down to 10 microns from memory, fireproof And it bonds

with fibre -seems like it would address papercrete's one flaw ,that of absorbing water.

I doe 't know what it costs in the US where it is commercially available- if too pricey to use in blocks, maybe as a waterproof,

fireproof papercrete render over the standard portland papercrete walls? 

It is not available here in Australia so i have not been able to test it but i think it would be worth a try?
 
It can be made from dead burned Magnesium Oxide ( finely ground) and dry mono Potassium fertilizer (0-52-34)

using 1% borax or boric acid as a retardent as it sets up fast.I  am still looking for a supplier of these materials here (except for the

 borax which is on the supermarket shelf!) The weak point is the second ingredient which is less

abundant than the first and an agricultural fertilizer but i understand chicken manure can supply the

 phosphate with perhaps a boost of the phosphate

content with phosphoric acid (ingred in coca cola!)

Whoever figures out how to effectively retrieve phosphate from feedlots and sewerage gets the prize!

 I read that houses in Russia built with traditional method of animal manure and

 MgO protected the occupants from radiation during the Chernobyll episode.

something to think about?

cheers, eo



On Thu, Jan 31, 2013 at 1:31 AM, JayH <slurryguy@yahoo.com> wrote:
 

I think Spaceman's recommendations are right on target.

However, I think there is also huge amount of room for experimentation in this area.

As spaceman recommended, trying something on a small scale is the place to start. I would never advise anyone to try a never before attempted (to my knowledge) experiment on large structure without doing some serious experimentation to figure out what makes sense.

That being said, I am confident that some type of Papercrete siding is not only possible, but extremely practical, even in wet environments.

Why do I think this? Fibercement siding, such as Hardiboard has been commercially produced, sold, and used all over the place for many years now. It is a proven product.

Hardiboard is essentially a very mineral rich papercrete. Something like around 10% paper pulp and 90% cement/sand.

The commercial product is manufacured a lot like making paper. They use a long conveyor belt made out of a screen type material, and they pour their wet mix on it, and pass the belt between two rollers above and below, squeezing out a large amount of excess moisture. Then they sandwich a top layer of paper that is impregnated with the color coating and press it into the presqueezed fibercement with a roller that embosses a woodgrain pattern to make it look like wood siding. The conveyor then passes through a long heated tunnel that dries the product.

I don't expect the average papercreter to make their own siding using long conveyor belts and long fossil fuel burning drying tunnels. That would be outside the scope of the typical do-it-yourselfer.

However, I do think that someone should be able to figure out a way to create a similar fibercement product using techniques that are available to nearly everyone.

I envision some type of wooden form that you can pour a heavy papercrete mix into, and then place a top wooden plank on the form and compress the entire sandwich. (Maybe drive a car or truck over it? I don't know if that would work, but maybe?)

It might be easier to think in terms of making fibercement shingles instead of clapboards. Then you might create a glorified tortilla press that could squish out shingles instead of yummy mexican flatbreads. I suspect that it would be necessary to keep brushing the press surfaces with something like used veggie oil after each shingle is removed to prevent the next shingle from sticking. Then again, perhaps not. Perhaps some time of silicone lubricant would be more long lasting.

Figuring out the best percentages of various ingredients to use in the mix would also be important. Would a 20% paper mix work? How about 25%? I don't know.

Is the top layer of impregnated paper really necessary?

If the layer of paper is necessary, what about rolling typical sheets of newspaper through a wallpaper wetting/glueing trough filled with a mixture of old latex paint? Then slap that wet paper on top of the fibercement shingle, and squishing it all together with the tortilla press?

The shingles would need to spend a significant time curing/drying. Perhaps it would make sense to build a solar wood kiln to hold shingles until they can be stacked.

These are some of the ideas I have considered. Anyone is welcome to give them a try and report their results.

I'm convinced that this concept is possible and practical, but there are a multitude of details to be figured out to make it work. The experimentation is not a task for the impatient or someone looking for a quick solution to cover an already existing structure.

I will say, that whoever spends the time to figure out how to DIY a fibercement siding that is waterproof, durable, and reliable, even in wet climates, will have advanced papercrete technology. They will become legendary on a scale with the Mike McCain tow mixer.



--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, spaceman wrote:
>
> The conventional wisdom for papercrete structures in a high rain area is
> good boots and a hat, meaning a foundation that raises the papercrete
> off the ground and a nice wide overhang. A 1' overhang on a 24' wall
> isn't going to give any protection from blowing rain. You didn't mention
> the foundation. Is it slab on grade or is there space between the walls
> and the ground?
>
> A good seal like elastomeric has been discussed, but I don't remember
> anyone reporting on the effectiveness of it. Asphalt emulsion and water
> glass have also been discussed. I tried AE on one panel and it seemed to
> work well but that panel disappeared so longevity was not tested.
>
> In your situation I would consider using the papercrete as infill
> between the studs, on the inside. Papercrete absorbs water like a sponge
> and takes a while to dry out, in your area it may never get dried out
> between rains. If it was sandwiched between housewrap and a sealing
> layer then any small leak could make it wet enough to mold.
>
> Once in a while we hear from someone in a wet place, like Puerto Rico
> for instance. I don't think any of them have reported back saying that
> pc was successful in a rain forest. In your case I think it would be
> prudent to make a small papercrete project like a storage shed and see
> how it holds up to the weather.
>
> spaceman
>




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