Sunday, January 20, 2013

Re: [papercreters] Re: I had a dream ... but help need help off established papercreters



Never mind the mix.it is outdated.look at the vaults and domes. I am no longer there.

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 19, 2013, at 9:21 PM, "liberty1_27606" <liberty1@gmail.com> wrote:

 



I found a MSDS that listed silica sand at 110# per cu. ft., so the estimate is safe.

Bobby

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "liberty1_27606" wrote:
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> Andy,
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> You were concerned about a dome floating away in the breeze. I think not - papercrete is lighter than conventional masonry, but, if you include sand or dirt or clay, it will still be fairly heavy.
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> Clyde suggested you look at Eve's garden. They document their mix at:
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> http://www.evesgarden.org/the-bed-and-breakfast/architecture/
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> Their formula is:
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> For one cubic yard mix:
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> 2 cubic feet of Portland cement
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> 2/3 cubic foot of metakaolin pozzolan
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> 12 cubic feet of perlite or plaster sand
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> 125 pounds of recycled paper
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> Estimating weights in the formula:
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> 2 x 94#/cubic foot = 188#
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> 2/3 x 50#/cubic foot = 33# SWAG
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> 12 x 100#/cubic foot = 1200# SWAG
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> 125# 125#
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> Total 1546#
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> Notice that the water was not included, since we assume that it all evaporates. There is a complicated reaction between the cement, the water, and the air. We need to measure this to get the real weight. But the sand makes up so much of the weight, if we get it right, we have a good estimate.
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> (If anyone has the real weight for either pozzolan or sand, please speak up.)
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> With a cubic foot weighing 1546#, if you make the walls 6" thick or more, it should not float away. I think I want to make my walls a foot or more to get enough insulation, so I don't think it is a problem.
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> Bobby
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> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "andytulip40" wrote:
> >
> > Hi joined the group today having googled my way through information on papercreting.
> >
> > I am looking at utilising my domestic waste output (as a new years resolution) I live in the UK and want to reduce the number of large recycle bins outside my house. I want to absorb all waste aside from garden and food waste.
> >
> > I intend to make papercrete blocks. However this blocks will be thicker than usual blocks as i want to use cans and bottles (glass and plastic) inside. The cans and bottles will absorb waste such a wrappings, packaging. These will then be earth rammed with ssoil/sand from the garden to provide bulk and strength.
> >
> > The paper and cardboard will then be used to from a papercrete shell aroung the plastic bottles/metal cans. The advantages of this method are that it will
> >
> > a)utilise all of my non organic doemestic waste (more recycled than paper
> > b) offset the amount of papercrete needed and therefore cement required
> >
> > I have several questions which i hope some of you guys may be able to help me with
> >
> > 1) I intend to build a standard block What is the minium thickness i could get away with for strength.
> > The standard concrete block in UK is 440mm wide, 210mm high and has a thickness of 100mm. This will absorb all pet botttles, cans, soft drinks/beers cans which take up 60mm allowing 20mm thickness of papercrete. Is 20mm sufficient or will the blocks ned to be thicker than 100mm.
> >
> > 2) having analysed my waste i have more cardboard than paper. Is is possible to have a mix of say 60% cardboard, 40% paper?
> >
> > 3) i have a dedicated wheelie bin for my pulp. Is it best to add water first allowing paper to pulp over time and absorb water or just do the pulping process in one go.
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> > 4) It is the middle of winter now. How long will it take for blocks to dry inside a cold non heated garage. I intend to start building in March when I have a supply of blocks, weather and daylight on my side, will 2 months drying be sufficient?
> >
> > 5) I want a uniformed block with straight edges on all sides. looking at pictures of blocks from molds they look a bit wavy. has any of you guys tried cutting papercrete? I would prefer a benchsaw, not handheld as i want a perfect straight cut. Can anyone recommend an appropriate one.
> >
> > 6) The finish, ideally a smooth tidy finish as this will be on show. When molding the blocks is is wise to apply a primer, of some sort to the finished side so that it comes out of the mold smooth.
> >
> >
> > Apologies for my many questions, but i am taking this project quite seriously. In return if any of you guys needs help or advice in reccling tyres and building with earth rammed tyres i could be you man. i have worked with tyres since 2009 and dug an underground earthship in my garden. Tyres are a great building tool if you have space but are simply too big and rounded to create a finsish without lots of rendering. It is also very labour intensive ramming a tyre properly.
> > I got into papercrete from this perspective and can offer lots of advice. Alas my mrs (not a big fan of recycling has banned me from tyres, so I have had to come up with something else.
> >
> > I appreciate anyones input on my questions as it will hopefully save me many weeks in experimenting.
> >
>



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