Re: [papercreters] Re: Floor

I'm looking forward to trying your formula.  I mixed latex paint with drywall mud hoping it wont flake off of the osb.  It needs a few more coats to hide the seams.  I doubt I will be able to completely blend them in.  Doris just posted some pictures including the ceiling as it is now.  Let me know if you want to see more. Ron --- On Tue, 6/22/10, countryatheartok <criswells.ok@sbcglobal.net> wrote: From: countryatheartok <criswells.ok@sbcglobal.net> Subject: [papercreters] Re: Floor To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, June 22, 2010, 6:53 AM   Ron, that is the same formula I used for my patio, we are going to tile directly over the smoothed floor (patio). How are you texturing or painting your taped and muded OSB? Could you give a close up photo so I can see your results? In my expermentation for closing up that metal frame window opening for the city work shop, I have come up with a nice formula for filling large holes and areas that are missing plaster (where the plaster has fallen off the clay tile wall) the formula I've come up with is for about 5 gallons, it is about:  1 1/2 gallons of dry wall compound, (the already mixed kind that you can buy in 4lb boxes or 5 gal buckets) 1 1/2 gallons of wet paper pulp, (I am using the blow in insulation for this), and slowly mix in enough dry morter mix (which is just fine sand, portland cement and lime) and about 1 1/2 cups of acrylic (can be latex paint or anything else that contains either) this mix comes out really smooth and sticky, you can toss a small amout (or a large amount) at a crack (up to 2 inches wide) and it will stick like glue and spreads easy, makes repairing plaster easy because the paper pulp acts like fiberglass tape. I am thinking about using it for my finish texture coat using a brush splatter and a knock down method. BTB  --- In papercreters@ yahoogroups. com, Doris Burton <yakishome@.. .> wrote: > > Judith > The floor is about three inches thick and the formula I came up with is one-half standard concrete mix and one half papercrete.  You could probably cut back on the cement.  I haven't experimented that much with it.  I form sections and drag a board across the forms.  After that sets up with the forms still in place I put a sand and cement mix on and drag the board across again to get a smoother finish if I am not putting a wooden subfloor on it.  I am not sure how far you can stretch the cement in an earth floor mix. > Ron > --- On Mon, 6/21/10, JUDITH WILLIAMS williams_judith@ ... wrote: > > > From: JUDITH WILLIAMS williams_judith@ ... > Subject: RE: [papercreters] Floor > To: "papercreters papercreters" papercreters@ yahoogroups. com > Date: Monday, June 21, 2010, 8:56 AM > > >   > > > > Thanks Doris. Is the high cement content so you can nail into it? How thick is the floor before you put the wood floor on? Is he doing it in sections or layers? >   > I am just about to finish the walls of my second little building and will go back to the roof on the one you guys helped me with. I'm thinking it would be good to get a papercrete subfloor in this summer so I can finish both buildings by winter. I know that usually the floor is the last thing to do but I want it to have time to harden up and I figure we can cover it while we do the interior plaster. I plan to put a mud floor over the papercrete. >   > I've sort of been keeping an informal tally of what this building has cost me and I think it's only about $500 so far. That's mostly for the cement. I haven't really had to pay for anything else. And I already have all my windows, doors, appliances, water heater, plumbing fixtures etc, so it should be a very inexpensive project. And of course the volunteer labor is a huge thing. >   > I'm so glad you are doing well. Wish I could get down there for a visit. Maybe some day. Thanks again for all your help. >   >   >   > > Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercre tebyjudith. com/blog > > More papercrete info at http://squidoo. com/papercreteby judith > > > >   > > > To: papercreters@ yahoogroups. com > From: yakishome@yahoo. com > Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 17:16:21 -0700 > Subject: Re: [papercreters] Floor > >   > > > > > > > > Ronnie has been doing our bedroom floor with half concrete and half paper pulp. Seems to be doing fine we will lay a wooden sub floor over that then hard wood floors. > One nice thing about this mix is that you can nail in to it. > More photo's of project to go on the site when it comes back up. > Ron & Doris > > --- On Fri, 6/18/10, JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@ hotmail.com> wrote: > > > From: JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@ hotmail.com> > Subject: [papercreters] Floor > To: "papercreters papercreters" <papercreters@ yahoogroups. com> > Date: Friday, June 18, 2010, 10:59 AM > > >   > > Has anyone done a papercrete floor? > > Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercre tebyjudith. com/blog > > More papercrete info at http://squidoo. com/papercreteby judith > > > > > > Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. See how. > > > > > > > The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. Get started. >

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