RE: [papercreters] Re: more and more papercrete experiments

My experience is that papercrete will not stick to plastic pipes. I assume you are thinking of putting them vertically in the "log" and pouring around it, removing it later and filling the void with rebar? If I were going to go to that trouble I would make the voids large anough to fill with concrete. I don't see what purpose rebar would serve except to keep the "logs" stacked up straight. I can see putting the rebar down the center of the void and pouring concrete around it. Can you explain in more detail what you want to do?

Sincerely, Judith

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To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: jgbigard@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 10:24:19 +0000
Subject: [papercreters] Re: more and more papercrete experiments

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "katsniptoys" <katsniptoys@...>
wrote:
>
> I am planning to do some experiments with papercrete as a jump off to
experiments with concrete counter tops. additives colorants finishes,
etc.
> But I was thinking as long as I am creating these blocks I might as
well make them useful. so I am going to cast them as "logs" about 20-30
inches long and about 8 inches square. I want to make some built in
perforations in them for future rebar to join stacks together.
> I think I want to use some small diameter pvc pipe through the forms
to create the voids. My question is do I need to coat them with some
kind of release so I can push the pipes out of the blocks after they
have cured some.
> does anyone else use a release agent (wax, grease, mylar) to get
things out of molds.
> thanks,
> kat
>

I use used cooking oil as from deep fryer etc. to coat anything I do not
want concrete to stick to. Most of mine is canola and corn oil from own
deep fryer, that we always save when changing old oil. I have used PVC
for leaving openings in concrete parts. I oil with the cooking oil and
usually try to remove while mix is greeen. 4-12 hours after pour
depending upon temp.

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