I have used levers to compress things before. A pipe or bar that is fastened to a hinge or pivot at one end so the other end can be raised or lowered while the hinged end remains stationary can be fitted with a hanging bar with a flat plate that is lowered into the mold. By lengthening the pipe so that the distance from the hanging bar and plate to the end not attached is greater than the distance from the hanging bar to the opposite hinged end will give a mechanical advantage in multiples directly proportional to the difference. For example a 3 foot bar will give a mechanical advantage of 5 if the hanging bar is 6” from the pivot.
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Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 9:48 AM
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Subject: Re: [papercreters] Re: Compressed Blocks
| I just use a 8 X 8 hand plate tamper to compress the PC. It needs to drain at least 15 -20 minutes before compressing. I cannot say it makes a better or worse block, only it makes it a little more uniform when it dries. The compressed ones TEND not to have the 20 degree angles on the sides, but occasionally they do. I am not trying to make a PC equal to clay CEB's. My form is the 12 X 12 X 24 made with 2 X6 lumber. I let it drain, compress it with the tamper, pull the form, let it set for a little while depending on the temp then edge it for final drying. |
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