I don't think Clyde would mind my sharing this email with the group again. It's kind of lengthy but worth the read. I'm glad this subject came up as I had planned to research fireproofing PC today but didn't get to it.
Sincerely, Judith
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To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: clyde@evesgarden.org
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 21:51:20 +0000
Subject: [papercreters] Re: fireproofing papercrete
Judith- This is Clyde Curyy at www.evesgarden.org -take 100 lbs of
newsprint, which equals half the volume of a one yard (200
gallons)container, add 14 cubic of your pumice, fill the space in the
pumice with 3 sacks of Portland cement (if you can get metakaolin
pozzalan then replace one sack of portland- put a torch on it - do you
want to bet it wont burn! If you do the boron thing then be aware that
excess boron is harmfull to plant life - good luck Clyde--- In
papercreters@yahoogroups.com , JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@...> wrote:
>
>
> I am still (or rather returning to) the fire retardant issue. I just
got a permit for an adobe house with the north wall being 2 x 10 frame
with insulation. I want to present my case to the code enforcement
department (CID here in NM) that papercrete treated in some way to be
flame retardant would be as good as or better than the insulation they
currently approve. I will slip form the papercrete insulation between
the 2 x 10s. The adobe code says insulation should be approved or
alternatives will be considered for approval. I notice the recipe you
gave me back in Sept is for a solution to be soaked into the surface
of the material. Do you think there would be an advantage to adding
the borax and boric acid to the mix? I would add it to the water and
dissolve it completely before adding the paper. In that case, would I
multiply the ingredients to use with 200 gal water? That would require
a lot of the chemicals (112 lbs borax and 48 lbs boric acid. Maybe my
math or reasoning is off). I also would use pumice fines, probably
equal to the amount of paper, to bring up the mineral content without
having to use any portland. Once I decide on the best flame retardant
and method of application I'll make some samples, make an appointment
and plead my case. Please let me know what you think. Thanks for your
very understandable answer to my former email. Judith
>
>
> To: papercreters@...: recyclist@...: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 09:26:08
-0700Subject: Re: [papercreters] fireproofing papercrete
>
>
>
> I have tested a similar solution as described below and it worked
great. Papercrete surface must be soaked not sprayed! Similar formulas
areapproved by local fire departments in major cities in the US.I
encourage all papercreters to never say papercrete is fireproof!
Onlyhucksters and the inexperienced say it is so. I have had
papercrete thatwas 1 part cement, 1 part clay, 1 part paper with sand
also smolder in awall behind a wood stove.I however do tell people
that during a forest fire I would run into apapercrete building but
run out of a wood building. A 1 foot thickpapercrete wall has about an
8 to 12 hour burn/smolder time. This is muchlonger than a drywall 1
hour fire wall. Of course one can soak apapercrete wall before a fire
and increase life expectancy.Textile Fire Retardant TreatmentsMany
chemicals used as fire retardants can be toxic, difficult to apply,or
can significantly alter the quality of the fabric. The 1977 edition
ofNFPA 701 include some uncomplicated sample formulas:Formula 1: Borax
- 6 parts, 6 lbs, Boric acid - 5 parts, 5 lbs, Water -100 parts, 12
gallons. Steep fabric in cool solution until impregnated. Heavy
applications by spray or brush are usually reasonably effective.
Repeat if necessary. This is good for theater scenery fabric,
andrecommended for rayon and natural fabrics. Yields a 8 - 12 %
weighting.Formula 2: Borax - 7 parts, 7 lbs, Boric acid - 3 parts, 3
lbs, Water -100 parts, 12 gallons. Water can be varied according to
the absorptivecapacity of the fabric. For rayon and sheer fabrics,
these same amountsof borax and boric acid can be used with 17 gallons
of water. Hand-wringfor an 8 - 10% weighting on fabric.Flexibility and
softness will be retained without dustiness, andmicroorganism growth
is also prevented.Art Hazard News, Volume 17, No. 2, 1994>> Hi, I hope
you're checking email tonight. I'm giving a presentation> tomorrow on
papercrete and realize I have to say something about> flammability so
I've been going through old emails and came across one by> you about
borax. Here's the thing: I am totally non-scientific and can't> seem
to translate all the info about precentages and amounts of borax or>
boric acid to add to the mix. I don't want to give misinformation. I
am> convinced that papercrete is the best material to build with but
if it's> not safe then I'll have to find a way to change that. Can you
give me a> simple to understand way that I can add borax to my mix so
it won't burn?>
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your memories in an online journal!>
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>
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________________
> You keep typing, we keep giving. Download Messenger and join the i'm
Initiative now.
> http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=TAGLM
>
newsprint, which equals half the volume of a one yard (200
gallons)container, add 14 cubic of your pumice, fill the space in the
pumice with 3 sacks of Portland cement (if you can get metakaolin
pozzalan then replace one sack of portland- put a torch on it - do you
want to bet it wont burn! If you do the boron thing then be aware that
excess boron is harmfull to plant life - good luck Clyde--- In
papercreters@
>
>
> I am still (or rather returning to) the fire retardant issue. I just
got a permit for an adobe house with the north wall being 2 x 10 frame
with insulation. I want to present my case to the code enforcement
department (CID here in NM) that papercrete treated in some way to be
flame retardant would be as good as or better than the insulation they
currently approve. I will slip form the papercrete insulation between
the 2 x 10s. The adobe code says insulation should be approved or
alternatives will be considered for approval. I notice the recipe you
gave me back in Sept is for a solution to be soaked into the surface
of the material. Do you think there would be an advantage to adding
the borax and boric acid to the mix? I would add it to the water and
dissolve it completely before adding the paper. In that case, would I
multiply the ingredients to use with 200 gal water? That would require
a lot of the chemicals (112 lbs borax and 48 lbs boric acid. Maybe my
math or reasoning is off). I also would use pumice fines, probably
equal to the amount of paper, to bring up the mineral content without
having to use any portland. Once I decide on the best flame retardant
and method of application I'll make some samples, make an appointment
and plead my case. Please let me know what you think. Thanks for your
very understandable answer to my former email. Judith
>
>
> To: papercreters@
-0700Subject: Re: [papercreters] fireproofing papercrete
>
>
>
> I have tested a similar solution as described below and it worked
great. Papercrete surface must be soaked not sprayed! Similar formulas
areapproved by local fire departments in major cities in the US.I
encourage all papercreters to never say papercrete is fireproof!
Onlyhucksters and the inexperienced say it is so. I have had
papercrete thatwas 1 part cement, 1 part clay, 1 part paper with sand
also smolder in awall behind a wood stove.I however do tell people
that during a forest fire I would run into apapercrete building but
run out of a wood building. A 1 foot thickpapercrete wall has about an
8 to 12 hour burn/smolder time. This is muchlonger than a drywall 1
hour fire wall. Of course one can soak apapercrete wall before a fire
and increase life expectancy.Textile Fire Retardant TreatmentsMany
chemicals used as fire retardants can be toxic, difficult to apply,or
can significantly alter the quality of the fabric. The 1977 edition
ofNFPA 701 include some uncomplicated sample formulas:Formula 1: Borax
- 6 parts, 6 lbs, Boric acid - 5 parts, 5 lbs, Water -100 parts, 12
gallons. Steep fabric in cool solution until impregnated. Heavy
applications by spray or brush are usually reasonably effective.
Repeat if necessary. This is good for theater scenery fabric,
andrecommended for rayon and natural fabrics. Yields a 8 - 12 %
weighting.Formula 2: Borax - 7 parts, 7 lbs, Boric acid - 3 parts, 3
lbs, Water -100 parts, 12 gallons. Water can be varied according to
the absorptivecapacity of the fabric. For rayon and sheer fabrics,
these same amountsof borax and boric acid can be used with 17 gallons
of water. Hand-wringfor an 8 - 10% weighting on fabric.Flexibility and
softness will be retained without dustiness, andmicroorganism growth
is also prevented.Art Hazard News, Volume 17, No. 2, 1994>> Hi, I hope
you're checking email tonight. I'm giving a presentation> tomorrow on
papercrete and realize I have to say something about> flammability so
I've been going through old emails and came across one by> you about
borax. Here's the thing: I am totally non-scientific and can't> seem
to translate all the info about precentages and amounts of borax or>
boric acid to add to the mix. I don't want to give misinformation. I
am> convinced that papercrete is the best material to build with but
if it's> not safe then I'll have to find a way to change that. Can you
give me a> simple to understand way that I can add borax to my mix so
it won't burn?>
____________
your memories in an online journal!>
http://www.reallive
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ____________
> You keep typing, we keep giving. Download Messenger and join the i'm
Initiative now.
> http://im.live.
>
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