Papercreters: [papercreters] Re: Need good advice on making "portable" papercrete buildings

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

[papercreters] Re: Need good advice on making "portable" papercrete buildings

Hi Dave what you need is a rig mat its very strong and can be moved
at anytime with a hiboy trailer-winch truck i will post a pic on my
photos page,Clair

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "David Schutt" <deck_arme@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi! Where I live, I must build without any permanent foundations,
> only piers on pads. All buildings must be "portable," meaning that
it
> would be theoretically possible for a crane to pick up the building
> and put it on a truck trailer to be moved. I know, sounds stupid
and
> it really does make things difficult, but that is the local law for
> now. I don't really ever plan on moving my buildings, they just
have
> to have the possibility inherently built-in. So, I thought I'd run
my
> plans by you all and see if anyone has any good advice for me. I'm
> going to build my buildings using papercrete, one way or another.
>
> I was thinking to make my buildings kind of like a big cargo
shipping
> container. I'm thinking of welding up a 13' x 43' deck using 4" or
5"
> angle iron to form the perimeter box. I'm thinking of welding on to
> the top of bottom leg of the angle iron box 2" x 1" I-beams side to
> side every 40 inches on center and overlaying them by welding on 8"
x
> 8" wire mesh. Finally, I'm thinking of covering the mesh with 1/2"
> hardware cloth. I thought I'd treat this foundation/floor as a roof
> and put down a mortar of wet mix and panels for a first layer, then
> build up blocks to a total PC depth of 12" and cover that with a
float
> of PC mix with extra cement.
>
> When that sets up, I'm hoping to stack PC wall blocks 12"wide x
> 24"long x 5.5" high to build up the walls. On top, I'm thinking of
> toweling out a leveling course using wooden side slip forms. On top
> of that, I'm thinking of building another deck, only this time it
> would actually be a roof. I'm thinking of connecting the decks by
> welding 2" angle iron on the "V" vertically to the outside side of
the
> perimeter angle iron.
>
> I'm thinking of building up the roof to 18" thick. (It is hot here
and
> PC is cheaper than running a bigger air conditioning unit.)
>
> I'm thinking of "drilling" bolt-cutter cut rebar through the wall
> blocks as I go to hold the wall courses together. I can drill
trough
> the floor, hardware cloth, mesh, past the I-beam and weld the end to
> the top of the bottom leg of the perimeter angle iron. I'd weld the
> top to the the inner edge of the top perimeter angle iron before I
put
> the mesh, hardware cloth, and PC on the roof.
>
> I thought I could use the pointed "V" edge of the vertical angle
iron
> to screed off my outer coat of PC wall plaster.
>
> When I'm done, I'll have a "container" building that is 12" thick on
> the four sides and the floor and 18" thick on the roof with a metal
> semi-exoskeleton.
>
> I'll build this on piers. I'll just use enough of them to keep the
> floor from sagging. I'll put them along the long sides and one row
> down the middle, lengthwise. I'm hoping that putting the 12" square
> piers on about 6' centers will be enough and I'll only need one row
in
> the middle. Maybe I'll need to shorten the middle row of piers and
> set an I-beam end to end, down the middle on top of the piers to
> support the middle of the floor from sagging.
>
> The mix I'm thinking of using would be 1:1:1.67, paper, sand,
cement.
>
> I'm almost done with my towmixer, I'll also write about that.
>
> Well, thanks in advance for any ideas or comments.
>