Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Re: [papercreters] pc blocks making and application

Thnxs Mikey

[[ Earlier this year I insulated a shipping container and the west wall
of a mobile gone with PC blocks. The blocks were light with a mix of
1:1 cement / paper. Their size was roughly 15"x15"x4". I had a
structural engineer sign off on a design for building block walls and
fences that I will probably not use. You can see the design here:

http://screwdecaf.cx/eco-lodge.html

If I were to go back to blocks I would do things different. Building a
hydrolic press to skip dry time. Increase sand, clay, and prickly pear
to greatly reduce cement. Have a block mold for the press that is
cores and keyed. This would help making verticle reinforcement easy as
well as block aignment precise.]]

That is a really quick reaction.
I have seen a couple of your videos and your website and have read
contrubutions in this group and have learned a lot from the efforts of
you and your girlfriend
If possible I like to ask you the following:
[The blocks were light] do you have an estimate about the weight of
your 15"x15"x4"
What is the reasoning abou using 15"x15"x4"?
[ with a mix of 1:1 cement / paper] is this by weight or volume?
do you remember how much water you used?
What is the reason you do not want to use the plans for your fences and blocks?
How do you apply the prickly pear in the mix?
Do you have an idea about the working/function of the prickly pear in the mix?
What is the reasoning to reduce the cement content of your blocks?
Do you have an idea about the working/function of the cement in the mix?

I have to say that I have no experience whatsoever whith pc. I am
building houses with concrete blocks for years, whereby I have adapted
a lot of practises of the building community.
By reading about pc and comparing it with my experiences I develop
certain possibilties in theory on how to do work with pc.

I would like your opnion/ educated guess about the use of
2 metal roofing corrugated irons [ in your case 15" wide] vertical
placed with reinforcement [can be 2x4 lumber ] placed on an elevated
base of mesh wire [about a litte more than 4 " wide] as forms for
your blocks.
in this way you also can stack these molds horizontally so you use an
corrugated iron on both sides.

if there is enough airflow the drying time should be reduced and can
further be reduced by making use of vibration that works two ways as
dryer but also as compactor and/or an industrial size fan.

in this way the blocks can be larger i think about 2 or 3 feet long
and can easy be placed on each other i suggest. can you eleaborate on
this line of thinking?

whish you both lots of succes with your projects

grtn Jan



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