Exactly, now lets look at some math, We will take my 50-gallon drum to
start with.
I don't actually make 50 gallons of papercrete, I usually start with 1/3
full of water...we will say 15 gallons approx. To this I add paper till
it is 2/3 full roughly 15 gallons of soaked paper...which after
emulsification gives me about 25-30 gallons of "liquid paper",
Half of this is water. From this I can usually make 5-6 large formed
bricks (fibrous adobe mixture) 20"x6"x5". I have made over 200 bricks
after work, prior to my insulation projects for winter taking
precedence. I need many more bricks for my walls, lets say 500. If my
math is correct each brick is roughly requiring 2.5 gallons of water
from start to finish. That would be 1250 gallons of water required to
produce 500 bricks. A small 3 foot by 12 foot swimming pool to
illustrate the description.
I built my mixer ontop of an old boat trailer. A canoe is burried under
it, and a series of screens forms the slurry chute, at the bottom of the
chute is where I claim the final result. It is wet enough so that I
don't usually have to add water to my mixer, and with a small waterbed
pump I quickly fill the emulsifier back up with 15 gallons of reclaimed
water. A second canoe is buried under the drainspout for the gutters,
reserve water if needed.
My water bill has barely moved an inch.
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "slurryguy" <slurryguy@...> wrote:
>
> Weren't you looking to capture drainage water and recycle it back
> into the next batch of papercrete as well?
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Chris Portell" chris@
> wrote:
> >
> > I found that if in my mix too much water it makes a "milkshake" of
> all the ingredients. You are shooting for a viscosity/texture more
> like "cookie dough". By slurrying the water out of the pulp through
> whatever means you are subtracting the amount of water that is
> eventually going to leach out of the brick anyway.
> > If you intend on substituting more cement then maybe you wouldn't
> need to drain off the excess water. Test it.
> > Main idea is 50% binder and 50% filler.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Neal Chabot
> > To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 10:39 PM
> > Subject: Re: [papercreters] Re: Papercrete 101
> >
> >
> >
> > Chris, I'm not sure about: "5) I usually slurry the pulp to
> remove excess water with an old window screen. Pour it out and let
> the extra water fall off."
> >
> > By "slurry the pulp" does that mean to pour it out of the mixer
> onto a screen?
> >
> > Why is this necessary when the next steps are to add cement and
> soil?
> >
> > Neal
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: lefamaster
> > To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 9:44 AM
> > Subject: [papercreters] Re: Papercrete 101
> >
> >
> > I'll take a stab at this since I started in 5 gallon buckets.
> >
> > This is a fibrous adobe mix that works very well for most
> climates.
> > Check your soil first, if you opt to utilize clay.(if clay is
> present
> > you are in luck.) You want at least 25-30% clay present. Get a
> jar, dig
> > down a few inches and put the soil in the jar, fill it half
> full of
> > water leave it overnight. The varous bands are the content
> percentages
> > of sand, silt, and clay.
> >
> > 1)Now...shred that paper.**cofetti shredders work best**
> >
> > 2) Soak the shredded paper (preferablly overnight.)
> >
> > 3)Fill the 5 Gallon bucket half-full of shreded soaked paper.
> >
> > 4) Add roughly 1 gallon of water, and attack with the drill.
> You'll
> > know it is ready when it looks soupy, and all the chunks are
> gone. Like
> > a smoothie made of paper is what you are shooting for.
> >
> > 5) I usually slurry the pulp to remove excess water with an old
> window
> > screen. Pour it out and let the extra water fall off.
> >
> > 6) grab an old pint size jar, fill it with portland.
> >
> > 7) In your mixer, now add the 2 gallons of slurried pulped
> paper, and
> > portland, mix this well. Add roughly 2 gallons of the *clean
> soil* NO
> > ROCKS.
> >
> > 8)mix this up into a cookie dough texture, if to thin add a bit
> more
> > soil to thicken. If too dry spritz a little water on it ( a
> little goes
> > a long way...it will shed this water eventually so no
> worries....just
> > not tooo soupy ok?...)
> >
> > 9)Pour into form, and wait 30-60 minutes and pull the form. Let
> dry for
> > 2-3 days then flip the brick as soon as able to o so to
> maximize dry
> > time.
> >
> > I have made two 6 foot by 6 foot walls with these bricks. They
> are not
> > exactly papercrete by definition and fall under a fibrous
> adobe. But
> > the technique is similar. From this process you can branch out
> into
> > various other recipes. The main idea is 25-45% paper then a
> > combination of binders (clay, cement, mortar) and binders (
> sand,
> > sawdust, paper, dung, etc)
> >
> > Hope that helps.
> > Chris Portell
> > 3)Fill a 5-gallon
> > > >
> > > > OH -- and thanks to those of you who were so nice and
> responded to
> > > my premature question about wall building. I've decided to
> make some
> > > blocks first, then worry about wall footings.
> > > >
> > > > To my neighbor in St. Hedwig -- I'm north of Dripping
> Springs, out
> > > by Hamilton Pool -- caliche country.
> > > >
> > > > Melody in TX
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
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