I live on the Canadian border in N.E. Wa, st.. Extreme weather is the term most used for here. As to longevity issues rest assured that craftsmanship is key over the material itself. If you engineer a sustainable structure and (God willing) it survives normal patterns it is because of how well thought out the process was. Same is true of any building material. Note that ferro cement styles of construction are thin by nature. Thin equates to NO insulation or mass factor!
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Jim Elbrecht <elbrecht@...> wrote:
>
> Cool. I've got a gallon of that I bought for a lampworking project.
> I'll put it to use.
>
> I got my gallon from
> http://www.chemistrystore.com/search.cgi?keywords=sodium+silicate [$15
> & another $15 to ship it to NY- but I couldn't find it locally in a
> small size]
>
> ">My 2 cents hope is helpful, I am in Illinois cool and wet now, so I
> am using ferrocement instead of papercrete here. "
>
> Very helpful- thanks. I've been wondering if PC made sense for
> our northern climes. Are you saying you use Ferro-cement 'this time
> of year' -- or because we have 'this time of year' Ferrocement is a
> better choice?
>
> I'm having a hard time imagining PC lasting through 100 NY winters-
> and have been wondering if it isn't just coincidence [and local style]
> that most of the folks on this list are from the Southwest.
>
> Jim
>
>
> On Sat, 17 Oct 2009 10:07:17 -0000, "jgbigard" <jgbigard@...>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >SOME latex pain contains sodium silicate, which can act as an accelerator, too much silicate can accel to much and have weaker laminate,but unless you put all latex pain into mix, prob not a problem.
> >
> >I also use sodium silicate in my mix water for concrete and ferrocment mix (1 0unce per 10 pounds cement)seems to mix better and cleanup easier.
> >
> >Then I also take sodium silicate and mix 1 part water,put into sprayer and spray the completed concrete pour or ferrocment to seal the suface to lock in moisture so will cure and not dry.
> >
> >Sodium silicate diluted with water also sprayed onto concrete is supposed to help waterproof it. Lot of products to make concrete waterproof has or still has silicate in it. One of the best is lithium silicate (sp)
> >
> >Sodium silicate is also called water glass. (dip eggs to preserve them)also fire retarder,added to degreasers, cleaners ,detergent,helps keep thing in suspension and used as a paper glue, may be great for the papercrete mix.
> >
> >Chemical co. sell in drums for best price, 350.00 to 500.00 for the pure stuff , I think drumweighs 6-700pds heavy stuff like syrup and them mix with water a drum goes long ways. (bantag may be one)
> >
> >My 2 cents hope is helpful, I am in Illinois cool and wet now, so I am using ferrocement instead of papercrete here.
> >
> >
> >--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "robertmerrill1953" <robertmerrill1953@> wrote:
> >>
> >> The term "kick" is used to describe set-up time. If we have found one flaw in F/C it is the length of cure time. I found by accident that latex paint has an effect on the cure time. Whilst doing a workshop at Lost Valley we thru some discarded paint in the tow mixer. As usual we did not use it all and I simply covered it for the next days class. Imagine my surprise to find a half full tow mixer solidified the next a.m.!! I have since been using latex to cure times more reasonable and to add some moisture resistence to the mix.
> >>
> >> Yes, F/C stands for Fibrecrete which is none other than P/C papercrete. I particularly refer to a mix that utilizes emulsified fibre, portland cement, lime, clay, and sand. It gives me the non-shrink material necessary for the plastering of bare strawbales.
> >>
> >> No, there is never such a thing as a stupid question...... maybe some dumb answers though?! hahaha
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >------------------------------------
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
------------------------------------
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