Hey im back,was out at our quarry for two weeks weird to see the city.First im a man not a girl lol and i live in Alberta Canada. The last mix we did was 100 lbs paper dry,40 lbs portland 80 lbs fly ash,20 lbs jackpine sand (high clay content)in a 200 gal mixer.We found the blocks alot more dense without extra weight,still about 12 lbs.when you press you have to let the mix drain off for at least 6 hrs then you can press quite fast and remove them from the press by hand.Grain augers dont work so we are now building a convayor to deliver the mix.Will be in town for a week and back out again for two weeks.Heet curing hmmm we have been collecting used cooking oil since last fall we have a grain bin half full of 5 gal pails,800 gals.Look at babington burners on youtube.have a good night
Clair
-- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Bob" <criswells.ok@...> wrote:
>
>
> I kind-of got my recipe from message 7146
>
> The following quote is from Clair from the above message:
>
> "Hi Bob our blocks are 12x14x6-we are using 7 gal mix .We are just doing
> small mixes in a barrel so we mixed 10 lbs paper 15lbs portland and 2lbs
> manifactured fines (sand)-20 gal water.We had problems with uniformity
> ,we needed more holes in the compresssion area and seems to be fine
> now."
>
> That information came from Clair up in Alaska. If you divide that by 1/2
> it comes out to
>
> * 5 lbs paper (dry I guess)
> * 7.5 lbs portland cement (that a little over a gallon)
> * 1 lb sand (ok I missed that by a mile)
> * 10 gal water (I think I can even get by with 5 gal or less)
>
> I think the new recipe will be better and not weigh so much, it should
> come out to be about 4"hx12"wx16" long, Clair said her 12"wx14"lx6"h
> weights about 12.5 lbs, I can live with that, I mix in a 8 gal container
> where she uses a barrel (I guess 55 gal size), I soak my
> paper/cardboard in a 20 gal container and then move the pulp to the 8
> gal container.
>
> The reason I'm cutting her recipe in half is because of the way I pulp
> my shredded office paper/cardboard and then move the pulp into another
> mixer and add the cement and sand. I think the sand is what was giving
> me so much weight, it would also make the blocks more fire proof and
> also doesn't soak up water so bad. As a matter of fact I took some scrap
> pieces that had dried and tried to re-pulp them with more pulp and they
> would not break down nor soak up water. (I havn't figured that one out
> yet). I had to take the pieces (they had been soaking for 48 hrs) out of
> the pulp because they just would not break down.
>
> Bob
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "slurryguy" <slurryguy@> wrote:
>
> Wow.
>
> I'm not sure where to draw the line semantically, but it seems
> appropriate to ask the question: Are you making papercrete or are you
> making concrete mortar with a paper additive?
>
> The mix you are describing may be the most dense, mineral-rich mix I've
> ever heard about. I'm not surprised that it is heavy.
>
> I'm glad you posted about your efforts.
>
>
> A couple of comments:
> Most of the recipes people have discussed have a ratio of dry cement to
> DRY paper of as low as 1-2, or as high as 2-1, perhaps as high as 4-1 by
> weight. NOT VOLUME. Your ratio by dry weight might be 10-1 or higher.
> With such a low paper content, I'm not surprised that you have observed
> no shrinkage. Your blocks aren't "drying" they are chemically curing and
> locking all the water inside the brick.
>
> I'm curious what your are trying to accomplish? What are you planning on
> using the final product for? I can tell you right now, you won't get
> much insulation factor from the mixes you are trying, but perhaps that's
> not important to you.
>
> I'm not trying to discourage you from experimenting with any recipe you
> want to. In fact, I'm intrigued to see where you are headed. Please keep
> us informed no matter what. This might be fun to watch.
>
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