I can understand your desire for a stronger higher mineral mix if you are creating artificial thin veneer stones. Thin papercrete does tend to tear and break easily.
When you start working with thicker and bulkier chunks of papercrete to infill a pole barn, you won't need very high strength at all. The poles of the barn will carry the bulk of the loads. You'll only need papercrete strong enough to support itself and whatever surface treatments you put on it. Even some of the weakest papercrete mixes can handle those loads. The most important factors then will be low cost and fire retardancy.
Bob, can you do me a favor? Can you make one small bucket of wet paper pulp and weigh exactly how much water and DRY paper you put in the bucket? What you consider wet paper and what someone else might consider wet paper can vary in quantity rather dramatically.
I'm not asking you to change how you work. Do whatever is easiest for you to get your job done. I would simply appreciate a one time weighing to provide a frame of reference. It will make it easier to compare what you are doing to what others have done, and for others to duplicate your mix if they want to.
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Bob" <criswells.ok@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "slurryguy" <slurryguy@> wrote:
>
> Bob:
>
> Relax. It appears that you are over-thinking this. Papercrete IS NOT
> ROCKET SCIENCE.
>
> Forget about trying to analyze what M-G is doing. It doesn't matter.
>
> Please...
> What are you building?
>
> I will be building the pole barn plan I've posted in the photo section
> not sure exactly when, it will be for my youngest son on 2.5 acres of
> sandy soil.
>
><snip>
>
>
> 1. 50% wet paper pulp/ 30% damp earth/ 10% dry sand/ 10% Portland
> cement
> 2. 60% wet paper pulp/ 20% damp earth/ 15% dry sand/ 15% Portland
> cement
> 3. 65% wet paper pulp/ 25% damp earth/ 10% Portland cement
> 4. 70% wet paper pulp/ 15% damp earth/ 15% Portland cement
>
------------------------------------
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