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A very cheap, old fashioned cure is what I am using. Buy Type S lime and slake it. Let it sit for at least two week, and be careful, that is the lime that will burn. Then mix 2.5 pounds of slaked lime, with 1/2 gallon of water and 1 pint of raw linseed oil, and paint it on. It is recommended to use at least three or four coats, but not all the same day. Give at least 3 days between coats for the lime to turn back to stone. If you can't find raw, boiled linseed oil is okay too. Whenever it starts looking a bit dingy, paint it again. Slaked lime, as long as it has water over it will keep for years and just get better and better. If you don't like white, any pigment designed to stand up to lime, can be used as color. Which means all the pigments for concrete. However, the color won't be the same as your base is white not gray. We make all our own paint these days, with a huge savings for the pocket book.
On 12/21/2015 9:28 AM, Murry Holley murry.holley@yahoo.com [papercreters] wrote:
Hello Kim:)
Thanks for your input.
The roof overhang is 30". I am coating the exterior with 2 coats of Thoroseal Cementious Masonry waterproofing.
I have been doing tests on my barn walls. There was no moisture barrier at the base. I also started with very lean cement mixes and worked my way up to where I am now. I did not get any vegetation growing in the wall. But with some of the lean mixes I did get some mold growing. Wall has not been treated with ext. waterproofing yet.
Is there any additive I can add to the 1st couple of courses above the parge coat for a little extra protection form the termites.
Thanks and best wishes
Murry
From: "Kim gartht@windstream.net [papercreters]" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2015 5:59 AM
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Re: Termites in Papercrete
While I like clay rather than portland, you have to check the ph of your clay before using it. Also, we have found in hot humid Texas, that any clay can start the wall growing. We have weeds in Texas that will grow under the most severe conditions, so clay can be a real issue. I quit doing fidobe as Mike McCain named it, for this reason. Worked well in New Mexico, but not in my wet area.
Other than that, it looks good. What are you finishing the outside of the wall with? How much overhang does the roof give? Horizontal rain is not common, but it does happen, the wall need to be protected against moisture on the outside. And the inside should be a breathable finish so if moisture does get into the wall, it can dry out rather than rot. With organic matter in the mix, this becomes even more important. The clay could also be the reason for the termite problem, it would allow easy access.
Kim
On 12/20/2015 8:49 PM, Murry Holley murry.holley@yahoo.com [papercreters] wrote:
Greetings and thanks for all the comments.
The mix I have settled on is :
Pulped Paper 75% by vol and 22% by weight
Cement 6.9% by vol and 20.7% by weight
Sand 5.6% by vol and 17.1% by weight
Clay 12.5% by vol and 40.15 by weight
My test indicated pulped drained paper is about 1.2 lbs per gallon.
The above mix gives me a block with an average weight density of about 31 lbs per cf.
For our area we need an insulating exterior wall. That is why a dense wall like adobe with thermal lag is not suitable. I think it is import to keep block density low to attain the reported R2 per inch value. I hope to be able to get some testing on compresive strength in the near future.
As far as boots I have a CMU stem wall 12" above finish grade. I am using a parge coat of asphalt and lime on top of the stem wall as a moisture break. No other termite barrier is planned. Does this sound like something that will work.
Clyde can you tell me what the weight density and R value for the mix your suggest is? Do you have any data on comprehensive strength?
Thanks so much for everyone's comments.
Best wishes
Murry Holley
From: "Kim gartht@windstream.net [papercreters]" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2015 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Re: Termites in Papercrete
The original formula was 70% paper, 20% sand and 10% portland. You are suggesting 66% portland to 33% paper. Why????? Testing on roof panels, for burn protection found that they go out and don't continue to burn at 50% paper, 50% portland.
I too found that lime made papercrete weak. Painting it with whitewash when done works well. I would like to hear more about the formula that was used, what kind of boots the building has as well as if there are any termite guards in place.
On 12/18/2015 2:12 PM, clydetcurry@yahoo.com [papercreters] wrote:
Lime in papercrete makes it hold too much water. You should have 2 lbs. of cement per pound of paper.
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