Saturday, December 10, 2011

[papercreters] Re: Slip Forming Question

Thank you for the detailed reply.

The drainage from the molds shouldn't pose much of a problem, except around the electrical boxes. I'll probably place some pre-formed PC around those and fill it in a non-conductive insulator.

However there's a thin board between the studs and the exterior aluminum siding. I presume that's water resistant and it won't mind getting damp for half a day or so while the PC cures. If not, should I set in a layer of thin plastic sheeting prior to the pour?

Also, you indicate that the PC will pull back from the forms as it cures. My question is, when I pour on day 2 above day 1's pour, should I leave day 1's form in place to contain the slurry that may back-fill over where day 1 contracted? In effect walking two 1' boards up the wall by moving day 1 up to day 3 and so on?

Thanks again!

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Friday, December 9, 2011

Re: [papercreters] Slip Forming Question



In my experience the pc shrinks away from the form and it becomes apparent that the form is no longer supporting anything. Depending on the thickness of the pour that can be just a few minutes. How well you drain the pc before placing it will affect the time, as will other additives like sand and/or clay, accelerants like gypsum.

I think if I were to do a garage like yours I would use a 1' lift in a 2' form. First day fill the form(s) 2' thick (full), then second day move the form up 1' and top it off. That way the previous day's pour is supported, and you are done in a week. You can do all the walls at once.

You also will need to accommodate the water that will be seeping out of the bottom of the wall. Even well drained pc tends to seep as pressure is added on top.

Judith probably has better advice, my forms are different since I'm doing geodesics.

spaceman


On 12/9/2011 7:18 AM, trendawareness wrote:

In response to a previous post, it's been suggested that I try pouring PC between the open wall studs in my garage rather than molding blocks.   I think that would save me a lot of work.  But since I have no experience with slip forming PC, my question is how long should I leave the temporary forms up, and how do I know they're ready to be removed?  I take it actual times will vary, but should I plan on a couple of hours or a day?  Also, how soon before I can pour on top of a previous level?   Thanks      ------------------------------------  Yahoo! Groups Links  <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/  <*> Your email settings:     Individual Email | Traditional  <*> To change settings online go to:     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join     (Yahoo! ID required)  <*> To change settings via email:     papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com      papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com  <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:     papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com  <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/    ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.1873 / Virus Database: 2102/4669 - Release Date: 12/09/11   


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[papercreters] Re: compressed PC blocks

I see plans and actual Cinva rams for sale.

Does anyone have any experience using them with PC?

Are they worth the money if you're looking to make a more uniform PC block?

Thanks!


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[papercreters] Slip Forming Question

In response to a previous post, it's been suggested that I try pouring PC between the open wall studs in my garage rather than molding blocks.

I think that would save me a lot of work.

But since I have no experience with slip forming PC, my question is how long should I leave the temporary forms up, and how do I know they're ready to be removed?

I take it actual times will vary, but should I plan on a couple of hours or a day?

Also, how soon before I can pour on top of a previous level?

Thanks

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Re: [papercreters] Re: compressed PC blocks



Depends on the variables...someone posted the physics on this a while back... but it's somewhat minimal and not enough to warrant not doing it.  Your plan has work for several people working  with PC.

--- On Thu, 12/8/11, Richard <richvollnogle@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Richard <richvollnogle@gmail.com>
Subject: [papercreters] Re: compressed PC blocks
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, December 8, 2011, 7:43 AM

 

How much insulating value do they lose? I am considering placing these between wall studs. Then possibly using some spray closed cell foam over them. Any insights since I live i NE Ohio?

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "ifilmswest" <ifilmswest@...> wrote:
>
> I've found that other than uniformity, compressed PC blocks are less
>
> desirable because of the hassle and loss of insulation properties. But
>
> they sure look purr'ty.
>



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Thursday, December 8, 2011

[papercreters] Out door drying in Ohio

I have an idea but don't know if the extra work is worth the effort. The idea was to make a moveable greenhouse out of 6mil plastic sheeting in like a hoop style green house.It would not be heated but enclosed as much as possible. It could be used in the summer because of rain. I have promoted the PC idea but no one local has done anything that I am aware of. Will consider any and all ideas. Small batches is all I can do at the moment since I live in town.

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[papercreters] Re: compressed PC blocks

How much insulating value do they lose? I am considering placing these between wall studs. Then possibly using some spray closed cell foam over them. Any insights since I live i NE Ohio?

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "ifilmswest" <ifilmswest@...> wrote:
>
> I've found that other than uniformity, compressed PC blocks are less
>
> desirable because of the hassle and loss of insulation properties. But
>
> they sure look purr'ty.
>


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