Papercreters

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Re: [papercreters] new member

Visit the site and look. If you have any issues, please let me know. I've got one more script to add, but its lack doesn't stop anyone for adding recipes or looking up recipes. Editing recipes is, of course, an entirely different thing.

ElfN

----- Original Message -----

From: SILVERCRONE

To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 11:32 AM

Subject: Re: [papercreters] new member

E GET TO SEE THE RECIPES?

SC

HOW DOES ONE GET TO SEE THE RECIPES?

SC

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[papercreters] NEW AND IMPROVED FORUM OPPORTUNITY

Check this out and see what you think. I didn't research it fully, but
I did join the site as an individual, and it seems pretty neat and
complete - even has an online chat feature.

http://zoints.com/community-owners.z
------------------
"There are no facts, only interpretations". - Frederick Nietsche

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Re: [papercreters] new member

HOW DOES ONE GET TO SEE THE RECIPES?

SC

Spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net> wrote:

Welcome to the group.

1. Papercrete is absorbent like a sponge unless you seal it after it is cured.
2. Freeze/Thaw doesn't bother papercrete after it cures.
3. You can form papercrete over a negative mold as long as you remove it once it becomes firm enough. It does shrink while curing (depending on formula used), so might crack if left on the mold.
4. Recipes vary according to the use. A basic recipe would be 2:1 paper to cement by weight, and lots of water to mix. The water drains away leaving the cement in the paper fibers. There is a database of recipes (a work in progress) at http://papercreters.net
5. Throw a bucket of latex paint into the mix. That'll seal it. Recycle your drain water into the next batch. Other sealants used include silicon caulk dissolved in turpentine, asphalt emulsion, deck seal, elastomeric paint. The AE is mixed in like the latex, the others applied after curing.
6. Days to weeks, or even months depending on your climate, temperature, humidity, airflow, and of course thickness.
7. Wet papercrete works a lot like clay. Staining is no problem, it's paper after all.

Papercrete is just a fraction of the weight of concrete, depending on the exact formula used. Send us pictures of your experiments : )
       Spaceman    All opinions expressed or implied  are subject to change without notice  upon receipt of new facts.      mad4glass wrote:
Hi everybody,      1.Is papercrete absorbent after curing (a most important issue for   mosaicists!).  2. Can papercrete  resist the elements in a climate with hot summers   and cold winters (freeze/thaw cycle)? If not, are there any proper   sealants you can recommend me for use? (Not an issue in my current   project).  3. Can I form papercrete over a negative mold (well prepared with a   release agent of course)?  4. I need recipes/mixes for my project in planning. Anyone there who   can help me?  5. Can you recommend the use of latex/acrylic admixes as a fortifier   or are these a no-no in papercrete?  6. Approximate time of curing (depending on thickness and wetness of   course)?  7. Surface treatment - like "wet carving", staining,...?      

I'M VISUALLY IMPAIRED.I WRITE IN ALL CAPS
I LOVE MY COMPUTER.ALL MY FRIENDS LIVE HERE.
SO DO MY ENEMIES,BUT I DELETE THEM LOL __._,_.___

__,_._,___

Re: [papercreters] new member

Welcome to the group.

1. Papercrete is absorbent like a sponge unless you seal it after it is cured.
2. Freeze/Thaw doesn't bother papercrete after it cures.
3. You can form papercrete over a negative mold as long as you remove it once it becomes firm enough. It does shrink while curing (depending on formula used), so might crack if left on the mold.
4. Recipes vary according to the use. A basic recipe would be 2:1 paper to cement by weight, and lots of water to mix. The water drains away leaving the cement in the paper fibers. There is a database of recipes (a work in progress) at http://papercreters.net
5. Throw a bucket of latex paint into the mix. That'll seal it. Recycle your drain water into the next batch. Other sealants used include silicon caulk dissolved in turpentine, asphalt emulsion, deck seal, elastomeric paint. The AE is mixed in like the latex, the others applied after curing.
6. Days to weeks, or even months depending on your climate, temperature, humidity, airflow, and of course thickness.
7. Wet papercrete works a lot like clay. Staining is no problem, it's paper after all.

Papercrete is just a fraction of the weight of concrete, depending on the exact formula used. Send us pictures of your experiments : )

        Spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new facts.   mad4glass wrote:

Hi everybody,   1.Is papercrete absorbent after curing (a most important issue for  mosaicists!). 2. Can papercrete resist the elements in a climate with hot summers  and cold winters (freeze/thaw cycle)? If not, are there any proper  sealants you can recommend me for use? (Not an issue in my current  project). 3. Can I form papercrete over a negative mold (well prepared with a  release agent of course)? 4. I need recipes/mixes for my project in planning. Anyone there who  can help me? 5. Can you recommend the use of latex/acrylic admixes as a fortifier  or are these a no-no in papercrete? 6. Approximate time of curing (depending on thickness and wetness of  course)? 7. Surface treatment - like "wet carving", staining,...?

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[papercreters] new member

Hi everybody,

I´ve just joined your group after having first encountered papercrete
in the www - just by accicent.

As a mosaic artist wanting to include sculptural work I´m concerned
with the weight of the final product. Conventional concrete is a
superb substrate, but alas, sometimes too heavy for certain projects.
I´ve also tried my hand at papier maché, another most versatile
technique, and I was wondering about a way to make the result more
durable and resistant to the elements.

I´m particularly interested in the free forming technique and the
forming over a negative mold.
Right now I´m planning on a commission - a planter that´ll be the new
home for a huge tropical indoor plant ("elephant foot tree" - sorry,
I´m ignorant about the proper English or botanical term)with an
outside diameter of 100 centimeters/80 cm high. I cast it in concrete
and it´s very, very heavy. No way to decorate it with glass mosaic
and thus getting even heavier! It´ll grace the patio of a friend
instead...

So again I´m on the lookout for some hard, durable and yet
lightweight substrate to function as the substrate for my mosaic
planter.

I´ve ruled out resin for both costs and toxicity, and papercrete
sounds exciting to me on both issues - cost effective and environment
friendly.

1.Is papercrete absorbent after curing (a most important issue for
mosaicists!).
2. Can papercrete resist the elements in a climate with hot summers
and cold winters (freeze/thaw cycle)? If not, are there any proper
sealants you can recommend me for use? (Not an issue in my current
project).
3. Can I form papercrete over a negative mold (well prepared with a
release agent of course)?
4. I need recipes/mixes for my project in planning. Anyone there who
can help me?
5. Can you recommend the use of latex/acrylic admixes as a fortifier
or are these a no-no in papercrete?
6. Approximate time of curing (depending on thickness and wetness of
course)?
7. Surface treatment - like "wet carving", staining,...?

Thank you for your patience reading my too long message!

I´d be most grateful to anyone sharing his/her invaluable knowledge!

Thanks,

Anna

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[papercreters] Re:CAPS

I'm quite old and the old eyes need all the help they can get to read
tiny computer screen text.

There is a freeware program called EasyRead that you can download at:
http://www.softplatz.com/freeware/easyread/

It will install a BIG + sign (and a BIG - sign) in the tools area at
the top of the screen and any time you want to zoom in, just click
the + sign button... or zome out, just click the - sign.

Works great.

Glen

====================== REPLY SEPARATOR ======================

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Joyce E <yz0ld0wl@...> wrote:
>
> You can also press <Ctrl> <+> (both keys at the same time) on your
> keyboard, and you'll get bigger text. Use it for email and Web
pages
> both! -- I do...
>
> :-) Joyce in southeast Ohio, where the mud is knee deep and it's
still
> raining!
>
>
>
> Curtis Stewart wrote:
> > You could increase the font size to 6 which would do the same
thing.
> > If you are in Yahoo look to the top and a little left of center.
There
> > is a big A and a Little A with an arrow. Click on that and you
can
> > increase the font size to where you can see it better. This is
much
> > better than writing in caps
> >
>

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Tuesday, December 11, 2007

Re: [papercreters] Re:CAPS

You can also press <Ctrl> <+> (both keys at the same time) on your
keyboard, and you'll get bigger text. Use it for email and Web pages
both! -- I do...

:-) Joyce in southeast Ohio, where the mud is knee deep and it's still
raining!

Curtis Stewart wrote:
> You could increase the font size to 6 which would do the same thing.
> If you are in Yahoo look to the top and a little left of center. There
> is a big A and a Little A with an arrow. Click on that and you can
> increase the font size to where you can see it better. This is much
> better than writing in caps
>

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Papercreters

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Re: [papercreters] new member

[papercreters] NEW AND IMPROVED FORUM OPPORTUNITY

Re: [papercreters] new member

Re: [papercreters] new member

[papercreters] new member

[papercreters] Re:CAPS

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

Re: [papercreters] Re:CAPS

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