Papercreters: July 2012

Monday, July 30, 2012

[papercreters] Re: pannels

You can enbedd your 6x6 post in a solid wall and still do your plumbing
and wireing at the same time. I know 12' on center is good for infill
but I perfer 8' on center, either one will work just fine. Vision if you
will your 6x6 post, Screw a 2x2 up and down the length of the post, lay
out your form boards (they should be at least 2x6 but can be 2x12. Screw
these boards on each side of the 6x6 to the center of the 2x2, stack
them as high as you like, be sure and drill holes in the slab or footing
and insert rebar at least 2'oc 1'oc is better. This will give you a 9"
wall over all, you can make this wall even thicker by using something
thicker in place of the 2x2. also don't forget to put nails or screws
into the 6x6 to give somethin for the PC to hold onto. Doris and Ron
have some fine examples of this in their house. It is much easier to
pour this stuff in place than to have to drag around heavy panels and
then have to worry about wheither or not you attached the panels right
or not.

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, michael joyce <mojojoyce@...>
wrote:
>
> The reason for the six inches is I thought it would be easier to
keep the wall continuous instead of coming up to the post every 12'.
The only way to do this would be to put the inside wall on the inside of
the 6" post. Also I think the limit of a solid wall to lift and the
drying time of the slab wall would limit a wall section to be around 3
1/2" thick by 3' wide 8' tall. It would be very easy to run electrical
when working on the inside of the outer wall. I have not ruled out
making a single wall with hollow core that would be poured in one piece.
I am being slightly hurried to finalize plans an I am open to
suggestions. Mike Joyce
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: countryatheartok criswells.ok@...
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2012 2:58 AM
> Subject: [papercreters] Re: pannels
>
>
> I have a question! What is the purpose of the 6" void between the 3.5
> exterior and 3.5 interior walls? And will this void be filled with
> anything or just left open?
>
> BtB
>
>
> "I am thinking of putting a 3' by 8' by3 1/2" thick pc slab wall on
the
> inside and outside of the 6" post. The post will be about12' apart
along
> the edge of the concrete slab foundation. I am not using any sand
> except on the stucco so the pc slabs can be lifted easier or cut if
need
> be. I am familiar with construction and have thought out all kinds of
> the details. My wall at the moment of planning, will be three and a
half
> inches thick on the inside and the same on the outside separated by
the
> six
> > inches of space that the six inch post takes. That is two separate
> walls. The reinforcement would be between the two walls connecting
them
> to make them back each other up. I have thought about making pc post
to
> reinforce the pc pannel between the 12" post. I have even thought of
> putting the slabs horizontal. I will be working on a large ranch with
> some equipment available. I know it is some times hard to visualize
what
> people explain here so I hope I have painted a clear enough picture.
> Thanks Mike South Texas "
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>

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Sunday, July 29, 2012

Re: [papercreters] Re: pannels

The reason for the six inches is I thought it would be easier to keep the wall continuous instead of coming up to the post every 12'. The only way to do this would be to put the inside wall on the inside of the 6" post. Also I think the limit of a solid wall to lift and the drying time of the slab wall would limit a wall section to be around 3 1/2" thick by 3' wide 8' tall. It would be very easy to run electrical when working on the inside of the outer wall. I have not ruled out making a single wall with hollow core that would be poured in one piece. I am being slightly hurried to finalize plans an I am open to suggestions. Mike Joyce

From: countryatheartok <criswells.ok@sbcglobal.net>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2012 2:58 AM
Subject: [papercreters] Re: pannels

I have a question! What is the purpose of the 6" void between the 3.5
exterior and 3.5 interior walls? And will this void be filled with
anything or just left open?

BtB

"I am thinking of putting a 3' by 8' by3 1/2" thick pc slab wall on the
inside and outside of the 6" post. The post will be about12' apart along
the edge of the concrete slab foundation. I am not using any sand
except on the stucco so the pc slabs can be lifted easier or cut if need
be. I am familiar with construction and have thought out all kinds of
the details. My wall at the moment of planning, will be three and a half
inches thick on the inside and the same on the outside separated by the
six
> inches of space that the six inch post takes. That is two separate
walls. The reinforcement would be between the two walls connecting them
to make them back each other up. I have thought about making pc post to
reinforce the pc pannel between the 12" post. I have even thought of
putting the slabs horizontal. I will be working on a large ranch with
some equipment available. I know it is some times hard to visualize what
people explain here so I hope I have painted a clear enough picture.
Thanks Mike South Texas "

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Re: [papercreters] Panels- double wall- insulating them

I think I would investigate if the airspace between the walls could be sealed so as to be dead.

I'm thinking stucco or plaster inside of the inside wall and outside of the outside wall and in all the joints.

The R numbers for radient barrier (foil like sheet) with a dead airspace on both sides are supposed to be very good. And just hanging it in there before sealing would be easy and inexpensive.

Dan

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[papercreters] Panels- double wall- insulating them

I think Mike in Tx was going to leave air between the PC slabs attached to posts 12" apart.

Inventor Ken Kern was really big on doing the same but pouring sawdust between double walls. when densely packed it is virtually burn proof ( no air). he did this with wood walls too.

Maybe MIke had pearlite or fine caliche close by to get and shovel into the voids?

One other trick Kern did that I loved is to wrap heavy paper around a stove pipe, tape, and fill with sawdust to make 'logs', then he laid them horizontally between walls/studs.

I tried this, found it too much work, and just used heavy paper grocery bags with high 'burst' strength. I filled them with the redwood sawdust we have, kept them sorta squared & flat up while filling, and stapled shut, they stacked up nicely in between the studs.

I also tried coating them with clay to keep rigid, and add fire protection.( one could dip in clay bath, or spray/brush on clay-coating) I also tested using those cardboard Priority mail* boxes 3.5" thick,16x12... I think, as stackable blocks, pouring a wet mix of slurry in and around stacked boxes gives an insulation layer that stays put.

Sean Sands also filled canvas sacks, placed between 2x4s on the ground for keeping squared, tamped them flat let dry and peeled off the sacks to re use.

* I only used the used ones I had, using new boxes could result in big fines for theft of postal materials, but there are other boxes of similar shape. the local health food store has a huge bin of their delivery boxes in all sizes you can take free.

--
Charmaine Taylor/Publishing & Elk River Press
PO Box 375 Cutten CA 95534
www.papercrete.com

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__,_._,___

[papercreters] Re: pannels

Saturday, July 28, 2012

Re: [papercreters] pannels

Thanks for responding and the info Ron, I will remove the brakes. I am making a tow mixer from a fiberglass tank . It could hold 350 gallons but I am not sure what is safe for the axle to carry?; small pic up truck. I am building it extremely strong. and I will send pics and eventually videos of production station. I am building the slabs to put up against a post and beam 1000 sq' building. The slab walls will not be supporting any weight. I am thinking of putting a 3' by 8' by3 1/2" thick pc slab wall on the inside and outside of the 6" post. The post will be about12' apart along the edge of the concrete slab foundation. I am not using any sand except on the stucco so the pc slabs can be lifted easier or cut if need be. I am familiar with construction and have thought out all kinds of the details. My wall at the moment of planning, will be three and a half inches thick on the inside and the same on the outside separated by the six inches of space that the six inch post takes. That is two separate walls. The reinforcement would be between the two walls connecting them to make them back each other up. I have thought about making pc post to reinforce the pc pannel between the 12" post. I have even thought of putting the slabs horizontal. I will be working on a large ranch with some equipment available. I know it is some times hard to visualize what people explain here so I hope I have painted a clear enough picture. Thanks Mike South Texas

From: Ron Richter <ronerichter@yahoo.com>
To: "papercreters@yahoogroups.com" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 2:25 PM
Subject:Three and a half thick Re: [papercreters] pannelputting some reenforcements

Michael,

You mention you are building a mixer. Is it a tow mixer? If it is, take the break shoes out of the hubs. I built a towmixer 9 years ago, and made 50 or so batches with it during the summers then one day I had a load in and was going down the driveway when one of the tires seized up. Since I had used it a couple of years without checking wether the differential was full of oil I thought Uh Oh I have a bad bearing. Well I wanted to re-make the mixer anyway so my tub was closer to the ground, so I tore the whole thing apart to the bare axle and started to remove the suspect side to replace the bearing. I ended up having to use a "hot wrench" on it because I couldn't get the brake drum off without heat. I had to beat it all the way off and there was not a thing wrong with the bearings it was a dragging shoe that was causing the problem. With a tow mixer attached to the vehicle you don't need breaks anyway so take them out to prevent future headaches. Also, after all your welding is done, find the vent hole and use it to completely fill the cavity with oil. Since towmixer speeds are rarely over 10 mph any rear end will last a lifetime if the oil is checked sporadically.

When you say no structural support, do you mean the PC needs none, or you are not putting any in the wall? If you are asking if you want to know the thickness of a PC wall that will support a roof, then there are a number of questions you must ask yourself. How do you anticipate delivering the stress of a roof to the foundation? What kind of foundation are you using? How much insulation do you need? Is this going to be a lived in structure? Do you live in a high wind, snow, heavy rain area? In order to answer your question well, these details would be important.

Good luck with your project, and send us pictures.

Ron

From: michael joyce <mojojoyce@yahoo.com>
To: "papercreters@yahoogroups.com" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2012 9:26 PM
Subject: [papercreters] pannels

I am looking to make 8' wall panels and was wondering what was the thinnest you could make them and not be breakable, no structural support just for walls. Also wanted to know what to put under the pour, just garden mesh or plywood bottom. Am building mixer with fiberglass tank will send pics when done. Thanks Michael south TX.

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Re: [papercreters] Re: S blade- vs McCains Scissor blade

If I have to cut it out of one of my 24" buzz saw blades I am going to have a S shaped blade.

I would rather make it from a couple 10" table saw blades.

I can get damaged ones free.

That sizzor blade looks like it would do great work in a drum mixer but I am building a 250 gallon tow mixer.

I do have a LOT of 55 Gallon steel drums though.

Alan in Michigan

--- On Wed, 7/25/12, Charmaine Taylor <charmainertaylor@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Charmaine Taylor <charmainertaylor@gmail.com>
Subject: [papercreters] Re: S blade- vs McCains Scissor blade [1 Attachment]
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, July 25, 2012, 2:12 PM

[Attachment(s) from Charmaine Taylor included below]

Hi Alan, years ago the making of an S blade was a long and unsuccessful process with each person reinventing the wheel, and many had systems that didn't work after all the expense ($300 was an average cost as I recall)

Mike McCain went on to create a very simple chopper system for drums, and showed it in his vdieo... {no longer avail, I am trying to get it into DVD format,} A friend bought a set of these blades made from simple welded angle iron and big screws. I took pics of it disassembled.

Will try to explain:
It has a W shaped base of 3 welded angle iron pieces about 12" tall with a bottom cross piece. Short pipe is also welded to the 3 angle iron tops that a metal rod passes thru.

I called it a "scissor blade" because the short cutting pieces swept past the fixed W like scissor blades do to cut.

then 2 short pieces each of angle iron are welded to a pipe piece with a hole for a bolt to pass thru to grip a solid rod. the W lays across the bottom of a drum, the short pieces sit between the W to spin and when tied to a power source the short pieces spun independently and chopped an entire drum full in less than 2 minutes. Mike stopped selling the blade sets, he was too busy on bigger projects, and he encouraged others to just build their own. I know someone with a little skill could have them made.

May I attach photos to this email? if not will try an upload to the folder.

--
Charmaine Taylor/Publishing & Elk River Press
PO Box 375 Cutten CA 95534
www.papercrete.com

Attachment(s) from Charmaine Taylor

1 of 1 Photo(s)

sbladeD2.jpg

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

Re: [papercreters] Re: looking for small batch recipe help

Hi Soahib,

The water content is completely not an issue. The cement will adhere to the paper fibers regardless of the water volume. Since the water is completely evaporated when the PC is cured completely it is a non-issue. You may want to use just enough to make the mashing of the paper easiest, then the drying time is reduced. If you are squeezing the water out prior to completion it will speed up the drying time even more.

Questions?

Ron

From: Sohain Naseer <sohaibnaseer13@yahoo.com>
To: "papercreters@yahoogroups.com" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 9:49 AM
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Re: looking for small batch recipe help

hello Ron.

i am an UG student, working on research paper on papercrete, as you wrote that you had make a small batch in your class room for scientific testing, and you use the mix design as 3:1, can you tell me that what amount of water you use for this sample.

SOHAIB NASEER

From: liberty1_27606 <liberty1@gmail.com>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, 9 July 2012 8:00 AM
Subject: [papercreters] Re: looking for small batch recipe help

Vickey,

I have no direct suggestions about the mix for you, but I will be doing some similar projects and have thought of a concern you may have.. I think it would be best for both of us if we used weighing to proportioning our ingredients. For people building massive structures, measuring ingredients by volume is close enough. I want to be confident that the test batches I make can be extrapolated to larger projects. You want to make sure that each batch you make is the same as the last and will be as pleasing to your customers. So we both need to make sure that our batches are reproducible. We both need the extra accuracy that weighing can give us.

I plan to use this scale:

<http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-held-digital-scale-97227.html>

It has tare capability, weighs up to 45 Lbs., is small, and is flexible.

This scale is on sale, but is less flexible and only weighs up to one kilogram.

<http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-gram-digital-scale-97920.html>

(After you prove your process, you may want a more durable scale than Harbor Freight.)

Bobby

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "kjtbeskimo" <vickeym@...> wrote:
>
> Have been searching messages and every search term I can think of but have not found anything specific. We are newbies getting ready for our first attempt.
>
> Our paper is all shredded to little bits using a cross cut paper shredder. We have our drill and mixer blade, a bag of sand and will be getting portland cement soon. (had to buy sand as ours is still buried under snow.
>
> We want to make stepping stones and wall plaques for our store. Looking for as lightweight as possible that will still be durable enough for the intended use. (Need lightweight for shipping, we deal mostly with tourists.) But we are trying to find a recipe suitable for this and small enough to mix in a 5 gallon bucket for now.
>
> We still have 4 or 5 feet of heavily compressed snow on the ground here, and too cold still to do much outside. Days are finally getting around 30 degrees but nights are around 0 and even below 0 some nights. So larger projects and building our tow behind will not be happening for awhile yet.
>
> Does anyone have a suggestion for a recipe for stepping stones and or wall plaques they can recommend. Have found several recipes in the messages I have searched, but not sure which is suitable for which purposes. I know the stepping stones need to be stronger than the wall plaques but would appreciate any suggestions from those who have actually made papercrete.
>
> Vickey in Alaska
>

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

Re: [papercreters] pannels

Michael,

Good luck with your project, and send us pictures.

Ron

From: michael joyce <mojojoyce@yahoo.com>
To: "papercreters@yahoogroups.com" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2012 9:26 PM
Subject: [papercreters] pannels

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

Re: [papercreters] Re: looking for small batch recipe help

In general you use plenty of water to make it easy to mix. The extra water drains away and leaves most of the cement in the pulp. The water is usually clear as it drains away. If you are mixing in a blender it is good to add the cement to the pulp by hand outside of the blender.

spaceman

On 7/25/2012 9:49 AM, Sohain Naseer wrote:

hello Ron.

i am an UG student, working on research paper on papercrete, as you wrote that you had make a small batch in your class room for scientific testing, and you use the mix design as 3:1, can you tell me that what amount of water you use for this sample.

SOHAIB NASEER

From: liberty1_27606 <liberty1@gmail.com>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, 9 July 2012 8:00 AM
Subject: [papercreters] Re: looking for small batch recipe help

Vickey,

I have no direct suggestions about the mix for you, but I will be doing some similar projects and have thought of a concern you may have.. I think it would be best for both of us if we used weighing to proportioning our ingredients. For people building massive structures, measuring ingredients by volume is close enough. I want to be confident that the test batches I make can be extrapolated to larger projects. You want to make sure that each batch you make is the same as the last and will be as pleasing to your customers. So we both need to make sure that our batches are reproducible. We both need the extra accuracy that weighing can give us.

I plan to use this scale:

<http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-held-digital-scale-97227.html>

It has tare capability, weighs up to 45 Lbs., is small, and is flexible.

This scale is on sale, but is less flexible and only weighs up to one kilogram.

<http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-gram-digital-scale-97920.html>

(After you prove your process, you may want a more durable scale than Harbor Freight.)

Bobby

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "kjtbeskimo" <vickeym@...> wrote:
>
> Have been searching messages and every search term I can think of but have not found anything specific. We are newbies getting ready for our first attempt.
>
> Our paper is all shredded to little bits using a cross cut paper shredder. We have our drill and mixer blade, a bag of sand and will be getting portland cement soon. (had to buy sand as ours is still buried under snow.
>
> We want to make stepping stones and wall plaques for our store. Looking for as lightweight as possible that will still be durable enough for the intended use. (Need lightweight for shipping, we deal mostly with tourists.) But we are trying to find a recipe suitable for this and small enough to mix in a 5 gallon bucket for now.
>
> We still have 4 or 5 feet of heavily compressed snow on the ground here, and too cold still to do much outside. Days are finally getting around 30 degrees but nights are around 0 and even below 0 some nights. So larger projects and building our tow behind will not be happening for awhile yet.
>
> Does anyone have a suggestion for a recipe for stepping stones and or wall plaques they can recommend. Have found several recipes in the messages I have searched, but not sure which is suitable for which purposes. I know the stepping stones need to be stronger than the wall plaques but would appreciate any suggestions from those who have actually made papercrete.
>
> Vickey in Alaska
>

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5154 - Release Date: 07/25/12

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

[papercreters] Re: S blade- vs McCains Scissor blade [1 Attachment]

[Attachment(s) from Charmaine Taylor included below]

Hi Alan, years ago the making of an S blade was a long and unsuccessful process with each person reinventing the wheel, and many had systems that didn't work after all the expense ($300 was an average cost as I recall)

Mike McCain went on to create a very simple chopper system for drums, and showed it in his vdieo... {no longer avail, I am trying to get it into DVD format,} A friend bought a set of these blades made from simple welded angle iron and big screws. I took pics of it disassembled.

Will try to explain:
It has a W shaped base of 3 welded angle iron pieces about 12" tall with a bottom cross piece. Short pipe is also welded to the 3 angle iron tops that a metal rod passes thru.

I called it a "scissor blade" because the short cutting pieces swept past the fixed W like scissor blades do to cut.

then 2 short pieces each of angle iron are welded to a pipe piece with a hole for a bolt to pass thru to grip a solid rod. the W lays across the bottom of a drum, the short pieces sit between the W to spin and when tied to a power source the short pieces spun independently and chopped an entire drum full in less than 2 minutes. Mike stopped selling the blade sets, he was too busy on bigger projects, and he encouraged others to just build their own. I know someone with a little skill could have them made.

May I attach photos to this email? if not will try an upload to the folder.

--
Charmaine Taylor/Publishing & Elk River Press
PO Box 375 Cutten CA 95534
www.papercrete.com

Attachment(s) from Charmaine Taylor

1 of 1 Photo(s)

sbladeD2.jpg

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

Re: [papercreters] Re: looking for small batch recipe help

hello Ron.

SOHAIB NASEER

From: liberty1_27606 <liberty1@gmail.com>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, 9 July 2012 8:00 AM
Subject: [papercreters] Re: looking for small batch recipe help

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

Tuesday, July 24, 2012

Re: [papercreters] pannels

I have made panels just a couple of inches thick but they do have a tendency to bow. Garden mesh would be better than plywood, you want maximum drainage.

spaceman

On 7/24/2012 9:26 PM, michael joyce wrote:

I am looking to make 8' wall panels and was wondering what was the thinnest you could make them and not be breakable, no structural support just for walls. Also wanted to know what to put under the pour, just garden mesh or plywood bottom. Am building mixer with fiberglass tank will send pics when done. Thanks Michael south TX.

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5149 - Release Date: 07/23/12

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

[papercreters] pannels

__._,_.___

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Re: [papercreters] Fire proof???? Slip Form Follow-up Question

Calle, so sorry to hear about this. The wild fires are getting worse, and so many have lost all.

I know you put your heart and soul into your homestead.

spaceman

On 7/24/2012 5:39 PM, calle vallede wrote:

Hi All

We lost all in the range fire in Nebraska Sandhills, now wondering if we will ever build above ground again.

It is now headed toward Valentine and it is 112 here today.

They will not allow us in yet so we will never know if our kitties made it or not.

Our earth bag cellar is maybe workable, but I do not want to build in that spot again.

It melted our canoe it burned under our storage units and I lost all of my Dad's cowboy/RR museum and all of my heritage.

We are just sick and our insuance is being jerks.

Trying to find my husband a place to live as right now without water, with out fences and with out the fire being gone we can not go back out.

Please pray for rain and for the firefighters as they labor in this intense heat.

I try to hit town and do an up date when i can. We are down by the river now and have no signal.

Last night we awakened at 3 am and the smoke was so bad, the fires are burning in so many different places and the canyons make it worse at they have a life all their own.

So we were going to start a paper crete house in the next year but now I am so scared that I am not sure what to do.

Calle

Dan,

(From reading others experience, not personal experience.)

To get the quick drying time, you will need to make small blocks. Maybe no more than 3 inches thick.

You will not be able to dry your roof elements in time, so to get the prototype built, you will need to use 2x4s, fiberglass insulation, tin roofing, etc for the roof. I hope to build a papercrete roof system, so I think that is possible, but it will require lengthy drying time.

I believe small blocks would work for the floor and walls. I believe that the floor would not be walkable, but could provide the R value you need. Maybe you could put down temporary boards to walk on when loading and unloading the kiln.

To improve the drainage from PC blocks, some people use shade cloth on the ground and then put the blocks on top. I would suggest trying 6" welded wire mesh, topped with 1" welded wire mesh, topped with two layers of shade cloth. (If you try something to improve drainage and drying, please let us know how it works. I am in a humid environment also and need to work out a way to dry blocks.)

Good luck. Please let us know what you try and what your results are.

Bobby

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "trendawareness" <trendlinesystems@...> wrote:
>
> In response to my earlier questions, the slip-forming proponents have indicated that it's the only way to make large blocks or wall units in a humid environment.
>
> My understanding is that a slip-formed wall unit will be usable within a day or two after the final layer has been poured.
>
> With that said, I've started to assemble some framework for my wall panels that I'll fill-in with papercrete using slip-forming techniques.
>
> But my project also requires highly insulated 5' L x 5' W x 1' H horizontally oriented panels.
>
> My question is, being in a humid environment, what's the best way to make a large, horizontal, papercrete component?
>
> Can I make them vertically using slip-forming techniques then roll it horizontally?
>
> If so, do I need to wait several weeks for the unit to dry, or being slip formed, can a unit be placed horizontally after a few days?
>
> Thanks
>
> Dan
>

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5149 - Release Date: 07/23/12

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

[papercreters] Fire proof???? Slip Form Follow-up Question

Hi All

We lost all in the range fire in Nebraska Sandhills, now wondering if we will ever build above ground again.

It is now headed toward Valentine and it is 112 here today.

They will not allow us in yet so we will never know if our kitties made it or not.

Our earth bag cellar is maybe workable, but I do not want to build in that spot again.

It melted our canoe it burned under our storage units and I lost all of my Dad's cowboy/RR museum and all of my heritage.

We are just sick and our insuance is being jerks.

Trying to find my husband a place to live as right now without water, with out fences and with out the fire being gone we can not go back out.

Please pray for rain and for the firefighters as they labor in this intense heat.

I try to hit town and do an up date when i can. We are down by the river now and have no signal.

Last night we awakened at 3 am and the smoke was so bad, the fires are burning in so many different places and the canyons make it worse at they have a life all their own.

So we were going to start a paper crete house in the next year but now I am so scared that I am not sure what to do.

Calle

Dan,

(From reading others experience, not personal experience.)

To get the quick drying time, you will need to make small blocks. Maybe no more than 3 inches thick.

You will not be able to dry your roof elements in time, so to get the prototype built, you will need to use 2x4s, fiberglass insulation, tin roofing, etc for the roof. I hope to build a papercrete roof system, so I think that is possible, but it will require lengthy drying time.

I believe small blocks would work for the floor and walls. I believe that the floor would not be walkable, but could provide the R value you need. Maybe you could put down temporary boards to walk on when loading and unloading the kiln.

To improve the drainage from PC blocks, some people use shade cloth on the ground and then put the blocks on top. I would suggest trying 6" welded wire mesh, topped with 1" welded wire mesh, topped with two layers of shade cloth. (If you try something to improve drainage and drying, please let us know how it works. I am in a humid environment also and need to work out a way to dry blocks.)

Good luck. Please let us know what you try and what your results are.

Bobby

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "trendawareness" <trendlinesystems@...> wrote:
>
> In response to my earlier questions, the slip-forming proponents have indicated that it's the only way to make large blocks or wall units in a humid environment.
>
> My understanding is that a slip-formed wall unit will be usable within a day or two after the final layer has been poured.
>
> With that said, I've started to assemble some framework for my wall panels that I'll fill-in with papercrete using slip-forming techniques.
>
> But my project also requires highly insulated 5' L x 5' W x 1' H horizontally oriented panels.
>
> My question is, being in a humid environment, what's the best way to make a large, horizontal, papercrete component?
>
> Can I make them vertically using slip-forming techniques then roll it horizontally?
>
> If so, do I need to wait several weeks for the unit to dry, or being slip formed, can a unit be placed horizontally after a few days?
>
> Thanks
>
> Dan
>

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Papercreters

Monday, July 30, 2012

[papercreters] Re: pannels

Sunday, July 29, 2012

Re: [papercreters] Re: pannels

Re: [papercreters] Panels- double wall- insulating them

[papercreters] Panels- double wall- insulating them

[papercreters] Re: pannels

Saturday, July 28, 2012

Re: [papercreters] pannels

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Re: [papercreters] Re: S blade- vs McCains Scissor blade

Re: [papercreters] Re: looking for small batch recipe help

Re: [papercreters] pannels

Re: [papercreters] Re: looking for small batch recipe help

[papercreters] Re: S blade- vs McCains Scissor blade [1 Attachment]

Re: [papercreters] Re: looking for small batch recipe help

Tuesday, July 24, 2012

Re: [papercreters] pannels

[papercreters] pannels

Re: [papercreters] Fire proof???? Slip Form Follow-up Question

[papercreters] Fire proof???? Slip Form Follow-up Question

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