[papercreters] Paint that has frozen

Hi Y'all,
We have GALLONS of paint that we've collected from the recycling center that may or may not have been frozen.
When we paint a first coat on the papercrete, we use a Lot of paint.
From what I find online, the only problem with pain that has been frozen is that is can be lumpy. Lumpy paint isn't a problem.
Would there be any other reason we couldn't use re-purposed paint?
Thank you thank you thank you!
Alaine





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[papercreters] Re: curing problem

Good piccies please.

Probbly a structural problem, may well be subsidence, which may be minor and stable or not minor and not stable. Need more info to know. You'd best get a structural engineer to examine it to see what's going on, as it could require anything from filling to complete rebuild.





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Re: [papercreters] curing problem

That is a pretty tough question without more information. What type of steel framing? Structural steel framing, or metal studs? Is the papercrete used only for infill or is it structural? Three stories is tall for a papercrete building - how thick are the walls, top and bottom?

Not all papercrete is created equal. If the mix included borax or boric acid, mold should not be a problem.

You may be able to repair cracks with a plastered or sprayed on topcoat. Spraying would be a good way to completely fill cracks.

All of this is speculation without more information. Pictures would be helpful, too.

spaceman

On 5/21/2012 9:30 PM, debra s wrote:

We just looked at a steel frame papercrete home that is for sale. Unlike other papercrete homes that I am familiar with, this one is aprox three stories tall. It's gorgeous (absolutely gorgeous) inside but there are huge cracks on the outside starting at the roofline and continuing to the base. The realtor said its a curing problem.    My immediate thought is that this is going to result in a toxic home due to mold issues, but I am new to this so could be overreacting.    Can anyone out there tell me if this is a fixable problem or a lifetime of headaches?  The price for the house is unbelievably low, which is the only reason we could entertain buying it. But if it is not fixable, well, obviously, the cost is too dear.    Thanks so much for your help!    Debra      

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[papercreters] curing problem

We just looked at a steel frame papercrete home that is for sale. Unlike other papercrete homes that I am familiar with, this one is aprox three stories tall. It's gorgeous (absolutely gorgeous) inside but there are huge cracks on the outside starting at the roofline and continuing to the base. The realtor said its a curing problem.

My immediate thought is that this is going to result in a toxic home due to mold issues, but I am new to this so could be overreacting.

Can anyone out there tell me if this is a fixable problem or a lifetime of headaches? The price for the house is unbelievably low, which is the only reason we could entertain buying it. But if it is not fixable, well, obviously, the cost is too dear.

Thanks so much for your help!

Debra



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Re: [papercreters] Re: PC Insulation

There really isn't a reason except there could be if material is an issue.  If you poured a 4 foot deep section of a wall that section would need to have the boards stay there for a day or two to set up and drain.  If you didn't leave them in place there is the possibility of a bulge occurring due to weight near the bottom of the section.  If you had other sheets of plywood to make the next section then this wouldn't be an issue. 

The other consideration is speed and agility of the mixer.  If you have a tow mixer (or stationary) it will only mix up about 200 gallons at a time.  It would take about three or four batches to fill a wall section 12" deep with a 4' X8' section of wall.  I would want to pour around the building so the whole thing goes up evenly.  I said 8" in an earlier post, only because one mixer load would fill an 8" X 12" X 8' section.  One could easily make it 10", 20" or the whole sheet. 

In my experience, I have not ever been able to do 4 tow mixer loads in a one day period.  There always seems to be something that gets in the way.  But, others may be able to do that easily.  It is a problem with getting the paper weighed out and ready, the water ready (4 loads would be about 1000 gallons of water), the sand and cement.  With no break downs and everything ready you could conceivably do a load every hour depending on how you get it out of the mixer and how hard it is to pour into the forms.  You'd think you could do this before lunch and another 4 after lunch, but it rarely works out that way.

Ron

---

From: "prrr.t21@btinternet.com" <prrr@talk21.com>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 3:02 PM
Subject: [papercreters] Re: PC Insulation

 

Is there a reason to only use 8" strips of ply, rather than the whole 4x8 sheet and pour anything upto 4' depth in one go?

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Ron Richter <ronerichter@...> wrote:
>
> Dan,
>
> Is Cincinnati humid in the summer?  Does it get over 100 degrees farenheit for protracted lengths of time?  I tried to make bricks and had them drying for weeks before they were dry enough to use in Montana where it is low humidity and hot during the days.  I went to slip forming because of the wait time involved in the brick making.  If you have a structure it would be the easiest thing in the world to put long shallow boards on the outside of your studs and fill it with PC.  You are adding lots of steps when you make bricks.  With slip forms the only wait time you have is if you can pour more than 2 rounds a day.  I would allow 2 rounds to dry and set before the next round goes on so no swelling occurs.  This may be just a couple of days, and you can use those days to gather the next 10 or 15 batches of paper.  A screw gun and a strip of plywood 8" deep by 8' long is all you would need for the forms, and just screw them inside and outside of
> your studs.  Maybe have 2 sets of them to leave one in place a couple of hours, then move it in front of the last one. 
>
>
> If time is of no concern and you didn't want to get the whole thing done in one summer then bricks would work, however.
> Ron
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: trendawareness <trendlinesystems@...>
>
>
>  
> Ref. my December '11 post inquiring about slip forming, I'm ready to start insulating my attached garage with PC. This is non-living space and my goal is to reduce the summer and winter temperature extremes in my garage. I live near Cincinnati OH where we have 2 heating days for every 1 cooling day. January's average low is 19F and July's average high is 91F.
>
> But rather than worry about potential water damage caused by the run-off from slip forming, I'm leaning toward pouring 4' x 16" blocks the traditional way then placing them between the wall studs.
>
> My thinking is that if I pour a 16" wide block, allowing for the usual shrinkage, it should make for a snug fit in the 14.5" space between the studs. My plan is to use the same technique in the overhead attic space between the joists.
>
> Here's my questions for the group:
>
> (1) What's the suggested PC mix for non-load bearing PC? I'm looking for good R-values, yet bug & termite resistant, blocks.
>
> (2) To reduce the amount of cutting and sanding required, I was thinking about pressing the boards between the studs before they're fully dried, say 2-3 days after pouring the mix into the molds. Do you think this method would work?
>
> As always, any additional suggestions are welcome!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan
>
> PS: One month later my paper (crete-less) weed mats around my shrubs are holding up well. The only weed growth has been in the gaps where the paper mat has pulled back from the landscape blocks. Even after a week of no rain, the mats are damp to the touch. So they're holding in the moisture quite well.
>

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Just a quick comment on the forms for slipping. I used 12" boards as forms but have decided that next time I will use the entire 4 x 8 sheet of plywood. I will pour courses up to the top of the sheet then remove it and move it up - or maybe just put another one on top of it. The reason I am considering this is that every course is clearly shown on the wall. In other words the forms did not fit together exactly so that there is a lot of unevenness in the wall. Now I will have to mix more papercrete to smooth out the wall.

I live in a very dry environment so am not worried about mold but I did notice a few years ago when I poured a slip form wall right before winter and left the form on until spring there was a small patch of mold on the wall. So I really can't advise those in a wet climate, but maybe if you add some borax to the mix it would eliminate the mild possibility.



Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith

---

To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: prrr@talk21.com
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 23:02:38 +0000
Subject: [papercreters] Re: PC Insulation

 

Is there a reason to only use 8" strips of ply, rather than the whole 4x8 sheet and pour anything upto 4' depth in one go?

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Ron Richter <ronerichter@...> wrote:
>
> Dan,
>
> Is Cincinnati humid in the summer?  Does it get over 100 degrees farenheit for protracted lengths of time?  I tried to make bricks and had them drying for weeks before they were dry enough to use in Montana where it is low humidity and hot during the days.  I went to slip forming because of the wait time involved in the brick making.  If you have a structure it would be the easiest thing in the world to put long shallow boards on the outside of your studs and fill it with PC.  You are adding lots of steps when you make bricks.  With slip forms the only wait time you have is if you can pour more than 2 rounds a day.  I would allow 2 rounds to dry and set before the next round goes on so no swelling occurs.  This may be just a couple of days, and you can use those days to gather the next 10 or 15 batches of paper.  A screw gun and a strip of plywood 8" deep by 8' long is all you would need for the forms, and just screw them inside and outside of
> your studs.  Maybe have 2 sets of them to leave one in place a couple of hours, then move it in front of the last one. 
>
>
> If time is of no concern and you didn't want to get the whole thing done in one summer then bricks would work, however.
> Ron
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: trendawareness <trendlinesystems@...>
>
>
>  
> Ref. my December '11 post inquiring about slip forming, I'm ready to start insulating my attached garage with PC. This is non-living space and my goal is to reduce the summer and winter temperature extremes in my garage. I live near Cincinnati OH where we have 2 heating days for every 1 cooling day. January's average low is 19F and July's average high is 91F.
>
> But rather than worry about potential water damage caused by the run-off from slip forming, I'm leaning toward pouring 4' x 16" blocks the traditional way then placing them between the wall studs.
>
> My thinking is that if I pour a 16" wide block, allowing for the usual shrinkage, it should make for a snug fit in the 14.5" space between the studs. My plan is to use the same technique in the overhead attic space between the joists.
>
> Here's my questions for the group:
>
> (1) What's the suggested PC mix for non-load bearing PC? I'm looking for good R-values, yet bug & termite resistant, blocks.
>
> (2) To reduce the amount of cutting and sanding required, I was thinking about pressing the boards between the studs before they're fully dried, say 2-3 days after pouring the mix into the molds. Do you think this method would work?
>
> As always, any additional suggestions are welcome!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan
>
> PS: One month later my paper (crete-less) weed mats around my shrubs are holding up well. The only weed growth has been in the gaps where the paper mat has pulled back from the landscape blocks. Even after a week of no rain, the mats are damp to the touch. So they're holding in the moisture quite well.
>

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Re: [papercreters] Re: PC Insulation

Dan,

I'm having a hard time visualizing your situation.  I understand you have studs.  Are they covered with an exterior of some sort and you are going to fill with PC to the interior?  What is the "vapor barrier panel" made of?  Is it sheets of  Thermax or similar?

If you already have a skin on the exterior you could just spray it in the cavities from the inside.  Very little water will come out after the first coat (if you let it dry awhile before applying the second, third etc.)

Or if you do the slip form method you could "work" the slurry for the first couple batches to get some water out of it and then pack it in less wet.  After the first "pour" you wouldn't need to de-water the batches because the lower layers will absorb it all before it runs anywhere.

I agree you want the wall to breathe so don't put a vapor barrier in there.  Also you want the PC to stick to everything it can for strength and sealing.  Having something get wet for a week or two then drying out for good is not all that bad, but I can't envision your situation so can't tell if that is critical for you or not.

If you have a picture or two, start a folder with your project then we would have a better idea of what you are trying to do.  

---

From: trendawareness <trendlinesystems@gmail.com>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 2:15 PM
Subject: [papercreters] Re: PC Insulation

 

>> Is Cincinnati humid in the summer? <<

Yes.

>> Does it get over 100 degrees Fahrenheit for protracted lengths of time? <<

No, fortunately.

I like the idea of slip forming as the studs are currently open.

But I was concerned about possible water damage caused by water running from the slurry into the vapor barrier/panel that attaches to the outside of the stud, under my aluminum siding.

I had thought about stapling some plastic drop cloth to the wood prior to pouring, but I wanted the wall to breath.

Any ideas?

Dan

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[papercreters] Re: PC Insulation

Is there a reason to only use 8" strips of ply, rather than the whole 4x8 sheet and pour anything upto 4' depth in one go?




--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Ron Richter <ronerichter@...> wrote:
>
> Dan,
>
> Is Cincinnati humid in the summer?  Does it get over 100 degrees farenheit for protracted lengths of time?  I tried to make bricks and had them drying for weeks before they were dry enough to use in Montana where it is low humidity and hot during the days.  I went to slip forming because of the wait time involved in the brick making.  If you have a structure it would be the easiest thing in the world to put long shallow boards on the outside of your studs and fill it with PC.  You are adding lots of steps when you make bricks.  With slip forms the only wait time you have is if you can pour more than 2 rounds a day.  I would allow 2 rounds to dry and set before the next round goes on so no swelling occurs.  This may be just a couple of days, and you can use those days to gather the next 10 or 15 batches of paper.  A screw gun and a strip of plywood 8" deep by 8' long is all you would need for the forms, and just screw them inside and outside of
> your studs.  Maybe have 2 sets of them to leave one in place a couple of hours, then move it in front of the last one. 
>
>
> If time is of no concern and you didn't want to get the whole thing done in one summer then bricks would work, however.
> Ron
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: trendawareness <trendlinesystems@...>
>
>
>  
> Ref. my December '11 post inquiring about slip forming, I'm ready to start insulating my attached garage with PC. This is non-living space and my goal is to reduce the summer and winter temperature extremes in my garage. I live near Cincinnati OH where we have 2 heating days for every 1 cooling day. January's average low is 19F and July's average high is 91F.
>
> But rather than worry about potential water damage caused by the run-off from slip forming, I'm leaning toward pouring 4' x 16" blocks the traditional way then placing them between the wall studs.
>
> My thinking is that if I pour a 16" wide block, allowing for the usual shrinkage, it should make for a snug fit in the 14.5" space between the studs. My plan is to use the same technique in the overhead attic space between the joists.
>
> Here's my questions for the group:
>
> (1) What's the suggested PC mix for non-load bearing PC? I'm looking for good R-values, yet bug & termite resistant, blocks.
>
> (2) To reduce the amount of cutting and sanding required, I was thinking about pressing the boards between the studs before they're fully dried, say 2-3 days after pouring the mix into the molds. Do you think this method would work?
>
> As always, any additional suggestions are welcome!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan
>
> PS: One month later my paper (crete-less) weed mats around my shrubs are holding up well. The only weed growth has been in the gaps where the paper mat has pulled back from the landscape blocks. Even after a week of no rain, the mats are damp to the touch. So they're holding in the moisture quite well.
>




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[papercreters] Re: PC Insulation

>> Is Cincinnati humid in the summer? <<

Yes.

>> Does it get over 100 degrees Fahrenheit for protracted lengths of time? <<

No, fortunately.

I like the idea of slip forming as the studs are currently open.

But I was concerned about possible water damage caused by water running from the slurry into the vapor barrier/panel that attaches to the outside of the stud, under my aluminum siding.

I had thought about stapling some plastic drop cloth to the wood prior to pouring, but I wanted the wall to breath.

Any ideas?

Dan



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Re: [papercreters] Tow mixer

Go to: http://www.livinginpaper.com/mixers.htm#electric.  Scroll down for a listing of tow mixer parts and 2005 prices.

 

Raf

From: JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@hotmail.com>
To: papercreters papercreters <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2012 7:00 PM
Subject: [papercreters] Tow mixer

 

Does anyone have a list of materials to build a tow mixer? I used to have a list but I lost it.



Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith

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Re: [papercreters] PC Insulation

Dan,

Is Cincinnati humid in the summer?  Does it get over 100 degrees farenheit for protracted lengths of time?  I tried to make bricks and had them drying for weeks before they were dry enough to use in Montana where it is low humidity and hot during the days.  I went to slip forming because of the wait time involved in the brick making.  If you have a structure it would be the easiest thing in the world to put long shallow boards on the outside of your studs and fill it with PC.  You are adding lots of steps when you make bricks.  With slip forms the only wait time you have is if you can pour more than 2 rounds a day.  I would allow 2 rounds to dry and set before the next round goes on so no swelling occurs.  This may be just a couple of days, and you can use those days to gather the next 10 or 15 batches of paper.  A screw gun and a strip of plywood 8" deep by 8' long is all you would need for the forms, and just screw them inside and outside of your studs.  Maybe have 2 sets of them to leave one in place a couple of hours, then move it in front of the last one. 

If time is of no concern and you didn't want to get the whole thing done in one summer then bricks would work, however.

Ron

---

From: trendawareness <trendlinesystems@gmail.com>

 

Ref. my December '11 post inquiring about slip forming, I'm ready to start insulating my attached garage with PC. This is non-living space and my goal is to reduce the summer and winter temperature extremes in my garage. I live near Cincinnati OH where we have 2 heating days for every 1 cooling day. January's average low is 19F and July's average high is 91F.

But rather than worry about potential water damage caused by the run-off from slip forming, I'm leaning toward pouring 4' x 16" blocks the traditional way then placing them between the wall studs.

My thinking is that if I pour a 16" wide block, allowing for the usual shrinkage, it should make for a snug fit in the 14.5" space between the studs. My plan is to use the same technique in the overhead attic space between the joists.

Here's my questions for the group:

(1) What's the suggested PC mix for non-load bearing PC? I'm looking for good R-values, yet bug & termite resistant, blocks.

(2) To reduce the amount of cutting and sanding required, I was thinking about pressing the boards between the studs before they're fully dried, say 2-3 days after pouring the mix into the molds. Do you think this method would work?

As always, any additional suggestions are welcome!

Thanks!

Dan

PS: One month later my paper (crete-less) weed mats around my shrubs are holding up well. The only weed growth has been in the gaps where the paper mat has pulled back from the landscape blocks. Even after a week of no rain, the mats are damp to the touch. So they're holding in the moisture quite well.

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[papercreters] Tow mixer

Does anyone have a list of materials to build a tow mixer? I used to have a list but I lost it.



Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith

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[papercreters] Re: research articles

here are some more research links

have fun joe


LINKS

livinginpaper.com I heartily recommend this site compiled by video producer Barry Fuller; it outlines in great detail his research and thought about papercrete as a building material.

makepapercrete.com some good basic nformation about papercrete and how to make it and a tow mixer.

groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters Papercreters is a new SPAM FREE email message group discussing all aspects of papercrete from experienced papercreters and insights from others. Come learn, share, and most importantly, HAVE FUN.

papercreters.blogspot.com is a blog devoted to all things papercrete.

evesgarden.org Eve's Garden Organic B&B and Ecology Resource Center has done some wonderful building with papercrete and has a page about papercrete as a resource.

Wynoose Domes a rather whimsical look at a papercrete dome project.

Casawizardmoon Tim Pye and Cathryn Tezha Swann's papercrete home in Arizona.

Starshipenterprises Several pages about papercrete, with lots of good pictures, including a look at a large papercrete dome project with lots of slow-loading pictures, but worth the wait. A papercrete list forum is operated from here.

daycreek.com Alan Stankevitz is building a cordwood house, using papercrete as morter.

Paper Observatory Domes Early approach to creating lightweight domes.

greeninventor.org/strawjet describes an innovative way of creating load-bearing beams using long straw and papercrete.

youtube.com There are several short videos posted at Youtube on papercrete.

hybridadobe.com Philip Mirkin's site explains how he makes "hybrid adobe," a mix of papercrete and soil.

cellublox.com both manufactures and provides information about making papercrete blocks.

MasonGreenstar.com This Texas company is gearing up to manufacture commercial "blox" of papercrete.

groups.yahoo.com is a forum devoted to discussing papercrete.

mortarsprayer.com has a page about papercrete with several embedded videos and a photogallery.

papercretebyjudith.com blog of a woman who is building with papercrete.

--
Please check out my website, it shows one alternative for us to learn how to built your own Off the grid Power and Heat source. It utilizes a combined heat and power technology more common in Europe. It has been a hobby of mine for years.
www.OneAlternative.US

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Re: [papercreters] Digest Number 2273

http://middleearthhome.com/green-building/papercrete/
I have ran across this website and thought they might have some more details or long term experiences you might profit from.
http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DJoLBeV6tzJ4&v=JoLBeV6tzJ4&gl=US
This video might be helpful as well
Hope this helped good luck please share your findings here as well so we can all read about it
Thanks joe

www.OneAlternative.us

papercreters@yahoogroups.com wrote:



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Re: [papercreters] research articles

Good Luck Dr. Attaullah Shah,
We have some info up on our website
www.evesgarden.org
and
our blog
http://puertoviejo2bigbend.blogspot.com/

Send on any specific questions.
Have fun,
Alaine

On Thu, May 10, 2012 at 11:44 AM, ProjectDirector AIOU <pdaiou@yahoo.com> wrote:

 

Hi all

We are planning to statrt with some basic work on papercrete at Pakistan with some of my students at Swedish College of Engineering and Tech Wah Pakistan. I would appreciate if some litertature reagrding earlier work is provided in this context. This will help us to plan our research.

Mamnt Thanks

 

                                    Engr.Dr. Attaullah Shah 
                      PhD (Civil Engineering)  MSc. Engg (Str), MSc Envi Design,  MBA (Mark), MA Eco

                                               BSc Engg (Civil), Post Grad Dip (CompSc.)

                                             Project Director

                      Allama Iqbal Open University

                                Islamabad-Pakistan

                                  Tel/Fax:+92-51-9260100

                                           Tel: +92-51-9067212

                                           Cell:+92-333-6729809

                                

From: Sohain Naseer <sohaibnaseer13@yahoo.com>
To: "papercreters@yahoogroups.com" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 9, 2012 4:56 PM
Subject: [papercreters] research articles

 

hello friends... i am researching on use as papercrete blocks  building materials,  i want previous literature on papercrete, if any body have any previous research papers/articles please send me.

thanks 

--
Mil Gracias for your interest in ATEC,
Alaine
ATEC--Association of Ecotourism and Conservation
www.ateccr.org
atecmail@gmail.com
www.greencoast.com
+ 506 2750 0191
+ 506 2750 0398
ATEC. Local Tours  Local Staff
Unrelenting enthusiastic commitment to our community, our environment, and YOU.

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[papercreters] Re: research articles

What aspect of papercrete do you wish to research?

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, ProjectDirector AIOU <pdaiou@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all
> We are planning to statrt with some basic work on papercrete at Pakistan with some of my students at Swedish College of Engineering and Tech Wah Pakistan. I would appreciate if some litertature reagrding earlier work is provided in this context. This will help us to plan our research.
> Mamnt Thanks
>
>                                     Engr.Dr. Attaullah Shah 
>                       PhD (Civil Engineering)  MSc. Engg (Str), MSc Envi Design,  MBA (Mark), MA Eco
>                                                BSc Engg (Civil), Post Grad Dip (CompSc.)
>                                              Project Director
>                       Allama Iqbal Open University
>                                 Islamabad-Pakistan
>                                  Tel/Fax:+92-51-9260100
>                                            Tel: +92-51-9067212
>                                            Cell:+92-333-6729809
>                                 
>
>
>
>
> From: Sohain Naseer <sohaibnaseer13@...>
> >To: "papercreters@yahoogroups.com" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
> >Sent: Wednesday, May 9, 2012 4:56 PM
> >Subject: [papercreters] research articles
> >
> >
> > 
> >hello friends... i am researching on use as papercrete blocks  building materials,  i want previous literature on papercrete, if any body have any previous research papers/articles please send me.
> >thanks 
> >
> >
> >
>

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Re: [papercreters] research articles

Hi all

We are planning to statrt with some basic work on papercrete at Pakistan with some of my students at Swedish College of Engineering and Tech Wah Pakistan. I would appreciate if some litertature reagrding earlier work is provided in this context. This will help us to plan our research.

Mamnt Thanks

 

                                    Engr.Dr. Attaullah Shah 
                      PhD (Civil Engineering)  MSc. Engg (Str), MSc Envi Design,  MBA (Mark), MA Eco

                                               BSc Engg (Civil), Post Grad Dip (CompSc.)

                                             Project Director

                      Allama Iqbal Open University

                                Islamabad-Pakistan

                                  Tel/Fax:+92-51-9260100

                                           Tel: +92-51-9067212

                                           Cell:+92-333-6729809

                                

From: Sohain Naseer <sohaibnaseer13@yahoo.com>
To: "papercreters@yahoogroups.com" <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 9, 2012 4:56 PM
Subject: [papercreters] research articles

 

hello friends... i am researching on use as papercrete blocks  building materials,  i want previous literature on papercrete, if any body have any previous research papers/articles please send me.

thanks 

__._,_.___

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Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
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[papercreters] Re: research articles

Articles you can find with google.


--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Sohain Naseer <sohaibnaseer13@...> wrote:
>
> hello friends... i am researching on use as papercrete blocks  building materials,  i want previous literature on papercrete, if any body have any previous research papers/articles please send me.
> thanks 
>




------------------------------------

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[papercreters] research articles

hello friends... i am researching on use as papercrete blocks  building materials,  i want previous literature on papercrete, if any body have any previous research papers/articles please send me.

thanks 

__._,_.___

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Re: [papercreters] I'm new

Hey Mister Spaceman,
We have a blog. Would that be appropriate?
Thanks a bunch
Alaine

On Tue, May 1, 2012 at 11:37 PM, spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net> wrote:

 

Hi Alain and Noble. We like pictures here, even inserted in the messages : )

I think it is true, tell us details!

spaceman

On 5/1/2012 9:00 PM, thehuggeroftrees wrote:

Hi Ya Papercreters,   I'm new here.   We're building a papercrete palace three floors tall with a deck on what I call the fourth floor. I tell people it's the world's tallest house of paper. Do you think it's true?   Thanks!  Alaine and Noble at  evesgarden.org
      -----  No virus found in this message.  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com  Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2411/4972 - Release Date: 05/01/12      

--
Mil Gracias for your interest in ATEC,
Alaine
ATEC--Association of Ecotourism and Conservation
www.ateccr.org
atecmail@gmail.com
www.greencoast.com
+ 506 2750 0191
+ 506 2750 0398
ATEC. Local Tours  Local Staff
Unrelenting enthusiastic commitment to our community, our environment, and YOU.

__._,_.___

Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
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__,_._,___

Re: [papercreters] I'm new

Hi Alain and Noble. We like pictures here, even inserted in the messages : )

I think it is true, tell us details!

spaceman


On 5/1/2012 9:00 PM, thehuggeroftrees wrote:

Hi Ya Papercreters,   I'm new here.   We're building a papercrete palace three floors tall with a deck on what I call the fourth floor. I tell people it's the world's tallest house of paper. Do you think it's true?   Thanks!  Alaine and Noble at  evesgarden.org      -----  No virus found in this message.  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com  Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2411/4972 - Release Date: 05/01/12      

__._,_.___

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__,_._,___

[papercreters] I'm new

Hi Ya Papercreters,
I'm new here.
We're building a papercrete palace three floors tall with a deck on what I call the fourth floor. I tell people it's the world's tallest house of paper. Do you think it's true?
Thanks!
Alaine and Noble at
evesgarden.org




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